Posted: 10/29/2010 3:00:35 AM EDT
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Somewhere there is a long thread about these lanterns, but I figured I would start a new one for this specific modification. On a side note, I've had one running on low for 3 weeks straight with the batteries supplied in the package. But for those of us that like options other than Duracell or Energizer, here's another simple mod for creating an external DC input.
Tools: Soldering Iron, Wire Strippers, Small Dikes, 4" #1 Phillips screwdriver, Dremel tool, small files, 3/32 Drill bit, Drill, Self closing tweezers (optional) Supplies: 4 inches black 28G wire, 4 Inches Red 28G wire, Solder, Flux, 2 each #2x1/4" wood screws, Switched DC Input Jack For this project, I chose this Jack primarily due to size. 
First, open the battery compartment and remove the 4 screws holding the lantern together. The globe should seperate quite easily, so pull it out as far as the wires will let you. You should see a circuit board, the dimmer ring, and the globe. On the underside of the globe are two more screws, take them out as well. 
Now you can see the LED assembly. There is a red and a black wire coming through the assembly and soldered to contacts on the top. De-solder the black wire and thread it back through the LED assembly. 
Now use your thumbnail to loosen the battery compartment. Once it's about 1/2" down, you should see a red wire soldered to a terminal in the compartment. De-solder that terminal now and remove the battery compartment. 
Go ahead and pull everything apart. You should now have basically the battery compartment with a black wire on it, the LED Assembly with a red wire running to the circuit board and from the board to the switch, the globe, and the housing. Now it's time to get dirty. Take a look at the housing and determine where you want your jack to be. The best location I could find was on the right side, centered left to right, a hair more than 5/8" from the bottom of the housing. I held the jack in place and traced it with a pencil. 
Then using a dremel tool, I roughed out the opening and cleaned it up with the files. I inserted the jack in from the outside, and drilled the holes for the screws using the jack as a guide. Test for fit as you go, get it nice and tight. You can fill with epoxy or RTV later if you mess up and cut to big. 
Now comes the fun part. Strip about 1/4" from the ends of the black wire and tin the exposed wire. Thread one end back through the LED assembly and connect it to the same terminal we de-soldered from earlier. You want to do this quick so you don't damage the LED circuit. Now thread the other end of the wire back through the circuit board. Re-attach the LED to the globe, I found self closing tweezers to be a big help since my hands are kinda clumsy. After that, re-assemble the top assembly by putting the wires and switch back into the housing. Make sure your wires are sticking out the bottom of the green housing. Next strip and tin the red wire. Twist it to the end of the red wire we de-soldered from the battery compartment earlier and solder the two together to make things easier. Then go ahead and tin the contacts on the DC jack, it's time to put it all together. First, Solder the two red wires to the #1 terminal, then solder the black wire from the LED circuit to the #3 terminal (Note: in the pic is shows the wire going down towards the flat part of the jack. I actually had to switch it around and run it betwen the #1 and #2 terminals to get it to fit right). Then solder the black wire from the battery compartment to the #2 terminal. I found it best if I touch the iron to the terminals, then poke the wire through the holes all the way to the insulation. Let the solder cool, and trim off any wire sticking out the other side. 
Last, solder the end of the red wire to the terminal on the battery compartment. Now it's time to put everything back together. Put the factory switch back in place, then put the DC input in place, secure it with the screws if need be. Then re-insert the battery compartment taking care on how you route your wires, you don't want them getting pinched or severed. Once everything is back together, screw in the 4 screws and you are done. I don't have a wall adapter to show it, but I do have a vehicle adapter, so I snapped a couple pics. Power switch on, adapter plugged into lantern but not into vehicle, batteries installed, no light. 
Plug the adapter into vehicle, and wahlah, it works. 
I did find a substantial difference between using the batteries and using the adapter. The first picture is low with the batteries, the second is low with the adapter set at 4.5VDC. I did try it with the 3VDC and the output seem to be consistent with battery power. 
So for about $3 and an hour of my time, I now have a lantern with the best of both worlds. Hope you all enjoyed this presentation, and I look forward to seeing some of you try it out yourselves. |
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A couple of questions: The lantern runs on 4.5 volts of battery power, so will the led burn out if 12 volts is applied. Is that power adapter available at Radio Shack also. I have never seen one like that. Are the various connections different voltages and you plug it into the one you need. I purchased three of the lanterns after reading the thread about them on here. I am very pleased with them but sure would like to convert one of them to dc. Thanks for showing this,
Jim |
