[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Weapon lights (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 2/18/2010 7:16:17 AM EDT
| First, I like standardization. All electronics that I purchase for the stockpile must run on AA batteries. I also like LED lights for their long run times and efficiency. I seem to be having a hard time finding a AA LED light that will hold up to the rigors of being mounted on a weapon,a rifle in particular. I've looked and come up empty handed, if anyone can point me in the right direction or has some personal input, it would be appreciated. Thanks. |
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The Vltor Scout scope mount for E series Surefires will work down to .810". My Quark 2AA regular is .720". You could pretty easily build up the body dia with black tape or something else so it fits tight in the mount. I don't think it would move around. Not perfect, but it would meet your requirements.
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The Vltor Scout scope mount for E series Surefires will work down to .810". My Quark 2AA regular is .720". You could pretty easily build up the body dia with black tape or something else so it fits tight in the mount. I don't think it would move around. Not perfect, but it would meet your requirements. The mount is no problem,finding the light that runs on AA and will take the recoil, abuse, etc..is. HOw is the Quark working out for you? Thanks. |
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I just purchased a Streamlight TLR-1 and I am really liking it! Rock solid installation on my Beretta CX4 and easy to manipulate contols for constant ON, momentary ON and STROBE. 160 lumem LED uses C123 batteries. So far I like it very much. That's great, glad you like it. However, I'm specifically looking for one that runs on AA batteries. |
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The Vltor Scout scope mount for E series Surefires will work down to .810". My Quark 2AA regular is .720". You could pretty easily build up the body dia with black tape or something else so it fits tight in the mount. I don't think it would move around. Not perfect, but it would meet your requirements. The mount is no problem,finding the light that runs on AA and will take the recoil, abuse, etc..is. HOw is the Quark working out for you? Thanks. The Quark is available at 4sevens.com. I think they are the best quality of the cheaper lights. If you were flexible on the batteries, I would recommend a Fenix TK11 because I know they will hold up to recoil no problem. The Quarks are slightly better made than their Fenix counterparts. I do not have a Quark on a rifle so I cannot say that its going to be okay. I can only say that its what I would use if I had your criteria. |
reading is fundamental!
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Tag to see if anyone has a "real" solution..... I have a couple of AA led lights that have proven plenty durable and would be usable for an indoor weapon light but i couldn't find a mount that will accommodate lights that small in diameter. I gave up some time ago and currently use a couple g2's and 6p all leds ..... and tlr1 led. If someone has links to mounts that hold small lights i'd like to see them. |
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I'm in exactly the same boat as the original poster.
I want a good AA light and mount too. I have an o light, T25 I think, for a couple of months that is bright as hell and does run on AAs. I've only used it for scanning my yard before I let the dog out. No rough use or abuse yet. I haven't mounted it on a weapon yet either. How about a command arms mount? They have ones that go all the way down to .7". Is that small enough? http://www.commandarms.com/product.asp?pID=162&cID=19 http://www.commandarms.com/product.asp?pID=162&cID=19 |
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I suspect there is a reason why Streamlight engineers and other manufacturers choose cr123 batteries. I think they have a better runtime and higher output than a AA device will have. Countycomm has some great cr123 battery holders at http://countycomm.com/CBH.htm. I carry AA for general purpose, CR123's for high output lights and 2032 for my optics and compass. I don't feel I have a choice, but that is just me and I do respect your thougts and we don't have to agree. I know you are specifically looking for AA lights and I will second the above about the Fenix pd30. It is a great light with high output in a tiny package, but does run on CR123's. I also have a Streamlight TL-2 and a TLR-2 light/laser combo. They are also great lights, but also run on cr123's. But I did run across this light: It looks tough and being LED should handle shock ok, but only runs on one AA. Might be worth a look. |
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Quoted: I suspect there is a reason why Streamlight engineers and other manufacturers choose cr123 batteries. I think they have a better runtime and higher output than a AA device will have. Countycomm has some great cr123 battery holders at http://countycomm.com/CBH.htm. I carry AA for general purpose, CR123's for high output lights and 2032 for my optics and compass. I don't feel I have a choice, but that is just me and I do respect your thougts and we don't have to agree. I know you are specifically looking for AA lights and I will second the above about the Fenix pd30. It is a great light with high output in a tiny package, but does run on CR123's. I also have a Streamlight TL-2 and a TLR-2 light/laser combo. They are also great lights, but also run on cr123's. But I did run across this light: It looks tough and being LED should handle shock ok, but only runs on one AA. Might be worth a look. I have that light. It would work with the mounts posted earlier. I believe its a little over .750". It has a tactical switch which is critical for a weapons light. |
| And as for mounting up the light of your dreams any decent machine shop can make you up some nice auminum bushings, If you need a less exspensive option you can get pex tubing in black and turn it down in a lathe if need be to shrink the diameter as needed. YMMV, Mac |
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I'm in exactly the same boat as the original poster. I want a good AA light and mount too. I have an o light, T25 I think, for a couple of months that is bright as hell and does run on AAs. I've only used it for scanning my yard before I let the dog out. No rough use or abuse yet. I haven't mounted it on a weapon yet either. How about a command arms mount? They have ones that go all the way down to .7". Is that small enough? http://www.commandarms.com/product.asp?pID=162&cID=19 http://www.commandarms.com/product.asp?pID=162&cID=19 Thanks for the link, looks like what I needed. |
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First, I like standardization. All electronics that I purchase for the stockpile must run on AA batteries. I also like LED lights for their long run times and efficiency. I seem to be having a hard time finding a AA LED light that will hold up to the rigors of being mounted on a weapon,a rifle in particular. I've looked and come up empty handed, if anyone can point me in the right direction or has some personal input, it would be appreciated. Thanks. I’m also trying to standardize on AA batteries (Eneloops) and the weapon light is something of a challenge. I can’t give you any definitive answers but here’s where I stand so far. I went with the Fenix TK20. http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_85&products_id=531 I’m in no rush to get this done and just got the light a couple of weeks ago, so I’m still playing with it. The light is bright enough to do the job and has a pretty good throw. Indoors the lower level would probably work fine. The plan is to get the MI front sight mount http://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=94 and use the Larue LT-707 mount to hold the light. http://stores.homestead.com/Laruetactical/Detail.bok?no=292 The light will not be mounted on the gun most of the time, just attached as needed. I’m not a cop or military so hopefully all this will work well enough for my needs, minimal as they are. As long as the light proves durable enough to do hold together I think the benefits of going all AA are well worth it. |
| lonewarrior, Get a solid mount and a bulletproof light. What good will AA compatibility be when your weaponlight gets knocked off your fore end when you bump it against a car door or door frame of a house? As has been said, CR123 batteries are readily available, have a 10 year shelf life and operate in much wider temperature conditions than do AA batteries. At a buck a piece purchased in bulk they are not as expensive as many perceive and they are worth every penny, IMO. Have you taken any training courses with a carbine and weapon mounted light? |
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First, I like standardization. All electronics that I purchase for the stockpile must run on AA batteries. I also like LED lights for their long run times and efficiency. I seem to be having a hard time finding a AA LED light that will hold up to the rigors of being mounted on a weapon,a rifle in particular. I've looked and come up empty handed, if anyone can point me in the right direction or has some personal input, it would be appreciated. Thanks. I’m also trying to standardize on AA batteries (Eneloops) and the weapon light is something of a challenge. I can’t give you any definitive answers but here’s where I stand so far. I went with the Fenix TK20. http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_85&products_id=531 I’m in no rush to get this done and just got the light a couple of weeks ago, so I’m still playing with it. The light is bright enough to do the job and has a pretty good throw. Indoors the lower level would probably work fine. The plan is to get the MI front sight mount http://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=94 and use the Larue LT-707 mount to hold the light. http://stores.homestead.com/Laruetactical/Detail.bok?no=292 The light will not be mounted on the gun most of the time, just attached as needed. I’m not a cop or military so hopefully all this will work well enough for my needs, minimal as they are. As long as the light proves durable enough to do hold together I think the benefits of going all AA are well worth it. Thanks for the links.. heard good things about the Eneloops on the candle power forums. I may try the command arms mount first..run it through some paces and see how it holds up. |
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lonewarrior, Get a solid mount and a bulletproof light. What good will AA compatibility be when your weaponlight gets knocked off your fore end when you bump it against a car door or door frame of a house? As has been said, CR123 batteries are readily available, have a 10 year shelf life and operate in much wider temperature conditions than do AA batteries. At a buck a piece purchased in bulk they are not as expensive as many perceive and they are worth every penny, IMO. Have you taken any training courses with a carbine and weapon mounted light? First, I do plan on testing whatever mount and light I purchase. I realize the differences between 123's and AA's. However, it makes no sense logistically to have a piece of equipment that takes a specialized (although widely available) non rechargeable battery that is different than what every other piece of equipment I own takes. |
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The plan is to get the MI front sight mount http://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=94 and use the Larue LT-707 mount to hold the light. http://stores.homestead.com/Laruetactical/Detail.bok?no=292 The light will not be mounted on the gun most of the time, just attached as needed. I’m not a cop or military so hopefully all this will work well enough for my needs, minimal as they are. As long as the light proves durable enough to do hold together I think the benefits of going all AA are well worth it. I have the same MI mount and Larue light mount for my TK11.. I am very pleased with the setup, even though the light is almost always on my gun I like to be able to remove it in case I need to look at something and they don't want my gun pointed at them. |
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The plan is to get the MI front sight mount http://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=94 and use the Larue LT-707 mount to hold the light. http://stores.homestead.com/Laruetactical/Detail.bok?no=292 The light will not be mounted on the gun most of the time, just attached as needed. I’m not a cop or military so hopefully all this will work well enough for my needs, minimal as they are. As long as the light proves durable enough to do hold together I think the benefits of going all AA are well worth it. I have the same MI mount and Larue light mount for my TK11.. I am very pleased with the setup, even though the light is almost always on my gun I like to be able to remove it in case I need to look at something and they don't want my gun pointed at them. Thanks for taking the time to post this. Everything looked like it would work but it's nice to hear someone's running it in the real world. |
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This thread has gotten me shopping for AA lights, I've been looking around and the quark light seems pretty good. I like my Olight T25, but its a pain to switch in between modes. You have to repeatedly turn the lamp head to cycle through all 5 or 6 modes. With the quark, you can select any 2 to be memorized. I might pick the high power and strobe, or maybe the high power and lower power....
http://www.4sevens.com/index.php?cPath=297_306 you can also chose between AA and two AA models. Just another option. |
| I've been researching this quite a bit lately also. I too am trying to standardize to AA's. It look's like most of the lights can handle a wide variety of voltages so you can go from alkaline AA's to any of the rechargeable batteries. I could be wrong but it even looks like you could do lithium Ions on some. As far as the mounts for them. It seems that 20mm body is about the smallest I saw. (.7874 inches) There aren't a lot of mounts at that size, but I have found a few. The command arms one looks good for me. As far as standing up to the recoil, I have no idea I guess only time will tell. I think I am going with the Olight T-25. |
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why are you trying to fit equipment around a power source? there is a reason why the quality lights use 123's. Why wouldn't he? There are quality AA lights available (Fenix for one) and AA's a are plentiful and cheap compared to 123's. Some of us like to standardize other things (ammo, guns/mags etc) so this seems natural to me. |
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Actually AA powered LEDs way outperform older xenon bulbs with CR123 power. The much more efficient LEDs are adequately powered by AA batteries. You could get even more capacity with 123s, but I have no problems with a AA flashlight that outputs about 200 lumens for an hour or two.
I don't see where there is so much resistance to some folks who want to use a particular type of flashlight... It's a perfectly viable alternative. |
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I don't see where there is so much resistance to some folks who want to use a particular type of flashlight... It's a perfectly viable alternative. In Minnesota, where sub zero temps are common 1/4 of the year, I have had countless "standard" batteries take a crap on me. Since I started carrying Surefires powered by CR123s, that has never happened. Reliability is way more important that having the same kind of batteries in all your flashlights. If it is for something that needs to provide LIGHT NOW in any condition, for me, it's a Surefire with CR123 power source. |
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I don't see where there is so much resistance to some folks who want to use a particular type of flashlight... It's a perfectly viable alternative. In Minnesota, where sub zero temps are common 1/4 of the year, I have had countless "standard" batteries take a crap on me. Since I started carrying Surefires powered by CR123s, that has never happened. Reliability is way more important that having the same kind of batteries in all your flashlights. If it is for something that needs to provide LIGHT NOW in any condition, for me, it's a Surefire with CR123 power source. It's not the CR123 that works well in the cold, it's due to the fact it is Lithium. The OP can use Lithium AA's and achieve the same effect. The key is lithium, not what size. I'm with the OP on this, my lights use AA's. I use Lithium primaries and/or Lith rechargeables, which can also be recharged by solar, as well. LEDs tend to hold up well to recoil and shock. I'm using 180 lumen LED lights with tail switches, in [1] xAA and [2] x AA, on 2 different shotguns and they work, they hold up, the mounts don't budge, and magnum slugs and 3" magnum buck hasn't hurt them. My requirement was AA, as well, I wanted interchageable mounts for all long guns, and more so, no tools required to inter-change. On the shotguns I'm using the LazerLyte Tri Rail: http://www.totaloutdoorsman.com/thumbnail.asp?file=assets/images/Large/lasepicadptrir140.jpg&maxx=300&maxy=0 plus this O-light Light Mount with thumb screw for tool-less interchange: http://www.batteryjunction.com/m20-gun-mount.html Being able to swap a light between rifles, without tools, is quite nice. |
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If you want AA's, try this: http://solarforce-usa.com/category.sc?categoryId=16 I have Solar Force lights and they are GTG. You can lego most of them with Surefire parts too. Cheap enough to have several IMO. I have the L2m's they are 123/18650, but have heard good RE the L2r. Google Solar Force over on Candle Power Forums dot com. |
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IMO, there is much more out there in the way of CR123 than there is AA. I have an EOTech 512, which is AA powered, but I'm getting rid of it for a 553 which is CR123 powered. You can get rechargeable RCR123's in 3.0v or 3.7v. I currently run a older Streamlight M3x on my AR, but I'm swapping to the Insight WX-150 with more lumens (about 3x) and CR123's. All my Surefire lights are CR123s. I bought those $10 LED replacements that will take up to 18v and make 225+ lumens...so now I can run the 3.7v RCR123's in those. I also have a Fenix P3D (older model of the PD30) which is 160 lumens on "turbo" mode. Nothing in AA will touch that, that I'm aware of. Also just bought a MTE M3-2I for $60 which currently has CR123's and will make 740 lumens! I'm looking to swap it to 18650 battery which is rechargeable...might lose a few lumens, but the cost savings is worth it. |
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To everyone questioning the wisdom of using AA batteries. I can only speak for myself on this but to me there are significant benefits to be gotten from going all AA and it’s not just about flashlights. Digital cameras, TV remotes, radios and all manner of everyday gadgets can and do run on AA batteries. I’ve even got a gizmo that uses an AA battery to power my cell phone in case it dies on me at an inopportune time. You can walk in to any convenience store in the country any time of the day or night and find AA batteries for sale. The same can’t be said for CR123’s. In an emergency you may need to scavenge batteries from one device to power another you need more. Having everything work off the most common battery in the country means you’re never stuck with a device you can’t use. From a preparedness perspective, that matters.
There’s also the form factor to consider, with AA’s being both smaller and lighter then the CR123’s. Whether it’s a survivalist packing a BOB or a logistics officer packing a C5A with beans, bullets and batteries for the troops, weight matters. If, and that’s a big if, the smaller battery will do the job, then that’s more space for the beans and bullets. You need all three and the more of each you can carry the better off you are. Both flashlight and battery technology have made great advances in the last few years and together they may present an opportunity to standardize on one small, light weight, widely available battery for all the powers needs of the electronics that make life easier. This in and of itself makes it worth a look. Regarding weapon lights in particular, I don’t think anyone would argue that AA’s are better then CR123’s. They’re not, and the 123’s can and do provide for brighter lights. The question is, are AA batteries and the flashlights they power good enough? How much light do you really need to get the job done? I’m not a cop searching roof tops for a suspect or a combat Marine clearing huts in an Afghanistan village looking for the Taliban. If I was, then the CR123’s and the lights they power would probably be at the top of my list. But as I said, I’m not either of those two people and I don’t think I need the level of power offered by the 123’s. If I can find a weapon light that does what I need it to do and runs on the same battery I use for everything else, then that can only be a good thing. I also don’t have anyone else buying my supplies. CR123’s, bought in bulk, are probably cheap enough that most folks can maintain a reasonable supply. If you need that level of power and lives hang in the balance, then buying anything less is a false economy. But if an AA powered light works well enough for what you need it to do, then AA’s can be far more economical. In the pictures below you’re looking at the practical equivalent of 12,000 AA batteries. It cost me around $100.00, fits in a pocket and all up weighs less then a pound. 
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Dont know anything about these.
http://www.gunaccessories.com/tacticalshotgun/WLS1000/TacticalLightSystemWLS1000.asp Good comparison link http://shopping.yahoo.com/s:Flashlights:132606-Battery%20Type=AA:132608-Flashlight%20Type=Weapon%20Lights |
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To everyone questioning the wisdom of using AA batteries. I can only speak for myself on this but to me there are significant benefits to be gotten from going all AA and it’s not just about flashlights. Digital cameras, TV remotes, radios and all manner of everyday gadgets can and do run on AA batteries. I’ve even got a gizmo that uses an AA battery to power my cell phone in case it dies on me at an inopportune time. You can walk in to any convenience store in the country any time of the day or night and find AA batteries for sale. The same can’t be said for CR123’s. In an emergency you may need to scavenge batteries from one device to power another you need more. Having everything work off the most common battery in the country means you’re never stuck with a device you can’t use. From a preparedness perspective, that matters. There’s also the form factor to consider, with AA’s being both smaller and lighter then the CR123’s. Whether it’s a survivalist packing a BOB or a logistics officer packing a C5A with beans, bullets and batteries for the troops, weight matters. If, and that’s a big if, the smaller battery will do the job, then that’s more space for the beans and bullets. You need all three and the more of each you can carry the better off you are. Both flashlight and battery technology have made great advances in the last few years and together they may present an opportunity to standardize on one small, light weight, widely available battery for all the powers needs of the electronics that make life easier. This in and of itself makes it worth a look. Regarding weapon lights in particular, I don’t think anyone would argue that AA’s are better then CR123’s. They’re not, and the 123’s can and do provide for brighter lights. The question is, are AA batteries and the flashlights they power good enough? How much light do you really need to get the job done? I’m not a cop searching roof tops for a suspect or a combat Marine clearing huts in an Afghanistan village looking for the Taliban. If I was, then the CR123’s and the lights they power would probably be at the top of my list. But as I said, I’m not either of those two people and I don’t think I need the level of power offered by the 123’s. If I can find a weapon light that does what I need it to do and runs on the same battery I use for everything else, then that can only be a good thing. I also don’t have anyone else buying my supplies. CR123’s, bought in bulk, are probably cheap enough that most folks can maintain a reasonable supply. If you need that level of power and lives hang in the balance, then buying anything less is a false economy. But if an AA powered light works well enough for what you need it to do, then AA’s can be far more economical. In the pictures below you’re looking at the practical equivalent of 12,000 AA batteries. It cost me around $100.00, fits in a pocket and all up weighs less then a pound. http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL176/1171244/2214857/381860707.jpg http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL176/1171244/2214857/381860708.jpg What charger is that, and what charge times do you get? I like... |
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In the pictures below you’re looking at the practical equivalent of 12,000 AA batteries. It cost me around $100.00, fits in a pocket and all up weighs less then a pound. http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL176/1171244/2214857/381860707.jpg http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL176/1171244/2214857/381860708.jpg What charger is that, and what charge times do you get? I like... Powerfilm. They also make a version that does two batteries with a USB port. The specs say 2 AA batteries in a little over 3 hours and 4 AA's in about 6.5 hours. I'm getting that or a little better. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RMF7P8/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002LCUB36&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=00R4GE79S9CX33N8HMTT |
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why are you trying to fit equipment around a power source? there is a reason why the quality lights use 123's. Yep. No reason at all to handicap your flashlight selection by insisting on using shitty AA batteries. CR123's are easy to find now, pretty cheap, 10 year shelf life and they work great in cold conditions. There is a reason most every quality light uses them. |
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The question is, are AA batteries and the flashlights they power good enough? How much light do you really need to get the job done? I’m not a cop searching roof tops for a suspect or a combat Marine clearing huts in an Afghanistan village looking for the Taliban. This is a weapon light you're talking about here. There are one of two reasons you could ever want or need one: 1) You anticipate needing to point your loaded firearm at something and illuminating the target that you want to destroy in a life/death situation. This is NOT the time you want a "good enough" light that might work, might be bright enough, or might be compatible with the batteries you have in your closet. 2) You're playing Barbie-doll dress up with your rifle, and think a light looks cool. From the gist of this thread, I think you and the OP are leaning toward #2. If so, get the "good enough" light that has compatible batteries and impress everyone at the range. If not, forget about what kind of battery it takes, and spend some money on a GOOD light designed to be mounted on a firearm that won't fail you in a time of need. If this sounds harsh, it's because some people need to be waken up from the absurd rationalizations they use to justify bad purchases/decisions. |
