Posted: 1/1/2010 11:15:26 AM EDT
|
Well since it's winter time, this topic seems appropriate!
What kind of tire chains would you recommend for carrying in your vehicle? I've been looking at tire cables. They are less aggressive than chains but they would be better than nothing. I also don't care for the bumpiness of the thicker chains. Where I live, we don't get deep snow too often but do get ice at least 1-2 times per year. But, I'd plan to carry them in the vehicle and use them in case we ended up going to a snowier part of the country for a wintertime trip. I'd want to carry 2 pairs....for the front and rear tires on my truck and probably also the wife's SUV. So, pro and cons of chains vs cables? Brands and places to buy them? |
| in my opinion cables are a waste of money they break easy, to smooth out the bumpy ride add extra cross links, I use Pwag chains they are near indestructible but I live in Alaska and plow snow commercially altho I don't run chains very often they are handy at times |
|
Cables weigh less and offer a smoother ride but you sacrifice some grip. Cables have the same speed limitations as chains. For an inexperienced user the cables have a lower chance of sidewall damage from improper application. Cables aren't any easier to install than chains. They both suck trying to rig 4 wheels in the dark, wet, cold. I'd only run cables if I had a car that needed the "S" rating clearance. I'd try my hardest not to be driving that vehicle in the snow though. I also wouldn't buy mediocre chains. It will cost you $120 for 4 mediocre chains and ~$200 for 4 good ones that give you peace of mind. Either way storing chains takes up space but they're nice to have as long as you recognize you have to put them on ahead of time. I picked up some V-bar chains from tirechain.com. They're for ice and off-road use. If the roads are bad enough to need chains and 4x4 chances are I won't be on them. I went with the V-bar since I like to camp in the winter time.   I like their connecting/locking system better than the cheaper V-bar chains you can find. Just make sure you keep the cam tool either zip-tied to something bigger inside the chain bag, or in your glove box. I've never had to use them yet so I can't offer any review regarding their performance. I did a dry run installation in the driveway and it was as smooth as putting on chains ever is. ETA - A diamond pattern chain will offer a smoother ride. They're usually $10-$20 more than the traditional across the tire pattern. I've never seen the diamond pattern offered with V-bars. |
|
Truthfully, I ran the cheapest things I could get at Walmart.
Unfortunately, they don't fit my current car, and they don't seem to be sold locally. When I carried chains, I always also carried bungee cords to tighten them and a pair of short bolt cutters, just in case. However, with chains, an Escort could about climb a vertical wall covered with ice. 
|
|
add extra cross links to close up the gap as you see in this picture the cross link spacing on the rail chain has a cross link every third I add another one to close the gap in between so every other link on the rail has a cross link this will smooth out the bumpy ride considerably
link to pwag website |
|
Quoted:
Truthfully, I ran the cheapest things I could get at Walmart. Unfortunately, they don't fit my current car, and they don't seem to be sold locally. When I carried chains, I always also carried bungee cords to tighten them and a pair of short bolt cutters, just in case. However, with chains, an Escort could about climb a vertical wall covered with ice. good call....this is a must reduces chain slap and prevents the chains from falling off |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Truthfully, I ran the cheapest things I could get at Walmart. Unfortunately, they don't fit my current car, and they don't seem to be sold locally. When I carried chains, I always also carried bungee cords to tighten them and a pair of short bolt cutters, just in case. However, with chains, an Escort could about climb a vertical wall covered with ice. good call....this is a must reduces chain slap and prevents the chains from falling off ETA: most places that sell tire chains have spiders (bungee cords made for tire chains), just ask. Good advice, also keep some nylon ties (or something along this line) in the bag with your chains just encase the chains your using are a too long. It will keep the loose ends from damaging the fenders/rims. Dad had his F150 and then he had a company truck, company truck had larger tires but he would use the chains on the F150 if needed, he would use copper wire to tie up the excess, I don't recommend wire. |
|
Pewag is the best tire chains available.
for occasional, "get you out of a tight spot" usage, cheepshit Korean or Xhinese chains will be alright. be VERY sure to trial fit your specific set of chains to the exact tires you are running. Before you tuck them away, and assume you have the situation on hand. Always re- tighten after a 100 yards or so, and keep the speeds down, they will last longer. |
|
I was considering something like the Diamond Chains Looks like they'd be easy on easy off.
Anyone use these? |
|
Quoted: I was considering something like the Diamond Chains Looks like they'd be easy on easy off. Anyone use these? I'd take a hell of a lot longer making sure the diamond weave wasn't tangled than I would with a ladder chain. YMMV, untangling stuff drives me nuts and the cable that rides on the inside of the tire sure likes to have some bend in it instead of laying flat. It's not recommended for off-road, mud, plowing, etc. If you plan on having them for on-road use and getting through a chain checkpoint they will work just fine. I don't have them but I considered them. For less money the same website sells chains that are more versatile, at least in my tire size they were cheaper. I chose the V-bar chains since I'm more likely to need chains in an off-road setting. I could still use the V-bar if I needed to on the road. |
|
Personally, have ha d great experience using several sets of Rudd 4X4 Grip chains. I 4-wheel alot, and have used these on trucks with 32-36" tires in mud, snow. rocks - and have yet to destroy a set. The only thing that ever broke was an adjuster and that was due to wiping it off on a rock. Rudd replaced the parts free even though it wasn't their responsibility to do so.
They install much more easily than standard chains also. They are not V-bar, but I've never had a problem with traction. Kinda spendy though, but worth it to me. http://tirechaindealer.com/grip.php |
|
Where do you find these ? trying to find a dealer but none on the web have them priced |
|
Quoted:
Well since it's winter time, this topic seems appropriate! What kind of tire chains would you recommend for carrying in your vehicle? I've been looking at tire cables. They are less aggressive than chains but they would be better than nothing. I also don't care for the bumpiness of the thicker chains. Where I live, we don't get deep snow too often but do get ice at least 1-2 times per year. But, I'd plan to carry them in the vehicle and use them in case we ended up going to a snowier part of the country for a wintertime trip. I'd want to carry 2 pairs....for the front and rear tires on my truck and probably also the wife's SUV. So, pro and cons of chains vs cables? Brands and places to buy them? I've run both , since you'll have occasional use only I'd go for a good quality cable link They do run smoother and have less clearance problems than vbars. I would only worry about one pair for the front. It'll get you anywhere you need to go 99% of the time. |
|
Quoted:
Where do you find these ? trying to find a dealer but none on the web have them priced a local guy sells them they are not a cheap chain if I recall they where 150.00 ish a set double linked and I also bought a couple of extra cross links they are extremely durable |
|
I have only used chains once. I was on vacation at Lake Tahoe and my ex wanted to go ski somewhere in the mountains. I knew that they often close the roads unless you have chains or 4WD and I had been unable to rent a 4WD vehicle so I bought some chains for the rental. Sure enough we get up in the mountains and there is a checkpoint.
This being the good ole USA there are people offering their services to install chains and even selling them. I had never used chains before but had the good sense to practice in the parking lot before leaving. I am not real mechanically inclined but I did not find them anywhere near as hard to get on or off as some people seem to. I did resort to reading and following the instructions though. |
|
As a former chain user, we used to get those rubber straps with a hook on each end and put them across the chain/wheel center. This applied extra tension to help prevent the chains from hitting your fenders. They are available at truck stores for tarps and at farm supply.
We rarely used chains for snow, but definately for ice. (Missouri) |
|
Quoted:
Cables weigh less and offer a smoother ride but you sacrifice somegrip. Cables have the same speed limitations as chains. For aninexperienced user the cables have a lower chance of sidewall damagefrom improper application. Cables aren't any easier to install thanchains. They both suck trying to rig 4 wheels in the dark, wet, cold. I'd only run cables if I had a car that needed the "S" rating clearance. I'd try my hardest not to be driving that vehicle in the snow though. I also wouldn't buy mediocre chains. It will cost you $120 for 4 mediocre chains and ~$200 for 4 good ones that give you peace of mind. Either way storing chains takes up space but they're nice to have as long as you recognize you have to put them on ahead of time. I picked up some V-bar chains from tirechain.com. They're for ice and off-road use. If the roads are bad enough to need chains and 4x4 chances are I won't be on them. I went with the V-bar since I like to camp in the winter time. http://www.tirechain.com/images/v-barlarge4wor.jpg http://www.tirechain.com/images/2800large.jpg I like their connecting/locking system better than the cheaper V-bar chains you can find. Just make sure you keep the cam tool either zip-tied to something bigger inside the chain bag, or in your glove box. I've never had to use them yet so I can't offer any review regarding their performance. I did a dry run installation in the driveway and it was as smooth as putting on chains ever is. ETA - A diamond pattern chain will offer a smoother ride. They're usually $10-$20 more than the traditional across the tire pattern. I've never seen the diamond pattern offered with V-bars. These are the exact chains I run on my Dodge 3/4 ton 4x4 CTD. Last year, we had over 3' of snow on our drive way and road and I needed them every morning and night to get in and out. I had it down to where I could get all 4 on in under 20 minutes. They weren't too bad on plowed road that had ice on them but once you were off of the ice, they had to come off. Had one day we went out for a short drive while I had the chains on and had to pull 3 prople out that didn't have them on. I like the added v bar for added traction on ice. |
| I am not a big fan of cable chains, as they seem to last about 20 minutes on average. If you need to meet class S requirements, check out these. They are true chains that meet class S requirements, and are actually pretty decent quality. |