Posted: 12/5/2009 5:03:12 PM EDT
| Lookin for a good axe. Something made in USA. My old man had some great ones when i was a kid double blade and single and they held an edge. But those are long gone and i need to buy a good axe . So whats the one to buy ? |
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I have one of these and it's done everything I've asked it to so far.
http://www.estwing.com/product.php?product_id=1200 -Mark. |
| Gransfors is reputed to make a great axe... unfortunately they are not American... |
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+1 This is where you don't want American –– well, you might, but gransfors is better. |
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+1 This is where you don't want American –– well, you might, but gransfors is better. +2 I have the large splitting axe and the hunters axe. I love them both. |
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I'd find an old plumb, tru temper, ect and rework it. I have an ever growing collection of axes and my favorites are the one's I have reworked. If you're interested in doing this let me know and I'll post some in depth info to get you started.
The easy way is to just rehaft it and sharpen with a file and stone. I sometimes use a foam sanding block to keep the edge rounded (use like a strop). |
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I'd find an old plumb, tru temper, ect and rework it. I have an ever growing collection of axes and my favorites are the one's I have reworked. If you're interested in doing this let me know and I'll post some in depth info to get you started. The easy way is to just rehaft it and sharpen with a file and stone. I sometimes use a foam sanding block to keep the edge rounded (use like a strop). Of course we would like some in depth info on refurbishing old axes! Do you have any opinion on US-made military surplus axes that may have been produced in earlier decades? Are they good quality? For example, this "Barco Kelly Woodslasher® Axe with 36 in. handle.? Seems like a good price if it isn't junk. |
| Love the old Plumbs and True Tempers! Any axe needs to be treated with respect and maintained properly. And it is true a dull axe is a dangerous axe. I am know into collecting hatchets and really like the swedes. There are some really good Swedish models branded and sold here in the US under the Husqvarna name. |
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I'd find an old plumb, tru temper, ect and rework it. I have an ever growing collection of axes and my favorites are the one's I have reworked. If you're interested in doing this let me know and I'll post some in depth info to get you started. The easy way is to just rehaft it and sharpen with a file and stone. I sometimes use a foam sanding block to keep the edge rounded (use like a strop). Of course we would like some in depth info on refurbishing old axes! Do you have any opinion on US-made military surplus axes that may have been produced in earlier decades? Are they good quality? For example, this "Barco Kelly Woodslasher® Axe with 36 in. handle.? Seems like a good price if it isn't junk. The Kelly would be a good axe. They have several different "brand" names (IE tru temper, barco, ect...). For the price you can't go wrong. I'd remove some finish to see if it has a seam where the bit starts. If so, that's a good sign. Here's a post I made on another forum. (bushcraftusa.com) I have a Plum Double bit axe head that I found. It did not have a handle attached. I searched all the hardware stores in town until I found a hickory double bit axe handle (only had one left at ACE hardware). It cost around $9.00 but I had a $5 off coupon, so I paid $4 total. Materials I used were: Wetterlings small hatchet Hand saw Mora knife (just to clean it up with) Gorilla glue (used because it expands a bit) Marker White ash wedge (left over from firewood cutting) I did not sharpen the axe before I fitted it so I wouldn't cut myself. First I attempted to fit the head on the handle. Managed to get it all of 1/4 inch onto the handle. I left the head on making sure it was straight. Then, looking down through the top of the hole (eye?) in the head I noticed where there was light coming through and marked where there was wood blocking the light underneath the head on the handle. I also made a line horizontally to mark the head position. This was to keep track of my progress. 
After I had the marks set up, I used the hatchet to remove thin slivers of wood on the marked areas. I only went down about 2 inches at most from the horizontal line. Then I fitted the head again and repeated the process until It was where I wanted it. I pounded the bottom of the handle off of the floor to firmly seat the axe head. After I checked to make sure the head was straight I measured the depth of the wedge cutout in the handle with my knife blade (just stick it down in). I used this measurement to cut the wedge to length, and just eyeballed the width of the wedge to match the width of the handle slot. I then used the mora to pry the slot open and put the wedge in about 1/4 inch. I used Gorilla Glue and put some in the slot and on the sides of the wedge. The wedge was the pounded in until it was the proper length (measurement from mora blade). I let it dry and cut it off with the handsaw leaving 1/4inch exposed. 
The full thread can be found here : LINK Another good thread from the same forum can be found here: Great Axe Tutorial |
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If you want the best commercial axe out there, go Gransfors (I did and I love it).
If you want American made, go with these guys. I'm probably going to pick one up in the relatively near future myself. Seems like a pretty good product on initial glance and second hand accounts. |
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I want to add some things to the above post.
The handle I ended up getting for the double bit was less than ideal because of the grain orientation and the heartwood areas (darker). I'll admit that it has held up well so far, but I plan on having some extra handles once I find some good examples locally. I chose not to use a metal wedge or locking ring because I plan on replacing it. The Gorilla glue seems to add a bit more "grab" because of the expansion. I don't recommend soaking in water or oil to tighten up loose axeheads. It seems to cause more problems than it solves. As shown in the 2nd link, I have modded some axeheads in a similar way. I used several types of files and finally sanding and polishing instead of the flap disc grinder. I have used electric grinders and sanders on cutting tools, but I'm always worried about messing up the temper due to friction/heat. If I were doing this on a larger scale or if I was pressed for time, I'd use electric implements more often. Estwings, Gerbers, Fiskars, ect... are OK for what they are. I liked having an Estwing in the Jeep because I could use it to free people from vehicles. The hammer like pole and solid steel handle are good for prying and smashing. Other than that specific scenario, I would choose a traditional axe any time. EDIT here's a link to a site about old tools, the specific link is about Kelly axes.... Old Tools |
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If you want the best commercial axe out there, go Gransfors (I did and I love it). If you want American made, go with these guys. I'm probably going to pick one up in the relatively near future myself. Seems like a pretty good product on initial glance and second hand accounts. I forgot about Snow and Nealley axes. I've heard good things about them too. |
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To many good old axes out there that can be bought for $5 or $10 at flea markets for me to understand why somebody would pay alot for some new axe. I do have a gransfors Hunters axe, the only reason I bought it was a guy at the flea market had it priced at $20 and i couldn't turn it down. It is a nice axe but certainly no better then an old Plumb, Collins or many others.Actually I don't like the handle as it is kind of thick and blocky...Just look for a nice old axe of the shape you like and that is in good condition and pick it up, take it home and properly sharpen it.. These things are so common and cheap ain't no reason to have just one, same reason no reason to buy one with a damaged handle.
.....I used to make hand forged small axes for a living and of course have made 100s of handles for them. You are really better off not to put a wedge in as the one fellow showed in that photo, where the wedge goes in straight front to back. This way the wedge only puts pressure on the sides of the eye and with use the head will loosen as it is pushed back, Is better to put the wedge at an angle so that pressure is applied to the sides and the front and back. No reason to glue the wedge in either but rather leave it proud by about 1/4 inch and if head loosens tap it in more. Also a small metal wedge can be used to tighten up a loose head too. I used to use a product called "Chair Lock" which is used to swell the joints up in wooden chairs. On axes and hammers with loose heads I would just put a few drops in the eye and it would tighten up the head. This product permanently expands the wood fibers. If you soak a head in water it will tighten up but then when it dries out will be even worse....T |
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I have one of these and it's done everything I've asked it to so far. http://www.estwing.com/product.php?product_id=1200 -Mark. +1 one piece, reasonably light. Not for felling Redwoods but it s a great camp axe. |
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I have their chopping axe and 14" hatchet and have been very satisfied with both. |
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I have one of these and it's done everything I've asked it to so far. http://www.estwing.com/product.php?product_id=1200 -Mark. +1 one piece, reasonably light. Not for felling Redwoods but it s a great camp axe. another +1for the Estwing. It may not be as great as a GB, but it is significantly less expensive and will do 99% of what the GB will. Plus I like the metal shaft better than the wood for a smaller hard use camp style axe. It is also more impervious to weather and can bounce around in the back of a truck with no worries. |
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To many good old axes out there that can be bought for $5 or $10 at flea markets for me to understand why somebody would pay alot for some new axe. I do have a gransfors Hunters axe, the only reason I bought it was a guy at the flea market had it priced at $20 and i couldn't turn it down. It is a nice axe but certainly no better then an old Plumb, Collins or many others.Actually I don't like the handle as it is kind of thick and blocky...Just look for a nice old axe of the shape you like and that is in good condition and pick it up, take it home and properly sharpen it.. These things are so common and cheap ain't no reason to have just one, same reason no reason to buy one with a damaged handle. .....I used to make hand forged small axes for a living and of course have made 100s of handles for them. You are really better off not to put a wedge in as the one fellow showed in that photo, where the wedge goes in straight front to back. This way the wedge only puts pressure on the sides of the eye and with use the head will loosen as it is pushed back, Is better to put the wedge at an angle so that pressure is applied to the sides and the front and back. No reason to glue the wedge in either but rather leave it proud by about 1/4 inch and if head loosens tap it in more. Also a small metal wedge can be used to tighten up a loose head too. I used to use a product called "Chair Lock" which is used to swell the joints up in wooden chairs. On axes and hammers with loose heads I would just put a few drops in the eye and it would tighten up the head. This product permanently expands the wood fibers. If you soak a head in water it will tighten up but then when it dries out will be even worse....T Yup, pretty much second everything Ded has to say here.... find an old Plumb and rescue it! I do have a small Wetterlings camp hatchet that I really like. Otherwise my axes are all either rescues or ones my father had. I am eyeing his collection of adzes and froes etc. Unless you want a beater for the truck stay away from the Friskars types. |
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To many good old axes out there that can be bought for $5 or $10 at flea markets for me to understand why somebody would pay alot for some new axe. I do have a gransfors Hunters axe, the only reason I bought it was a guy at the flea market had it priced at $20 and i couldn't turn it down. It is a nice axe but certainly no better then an old Plumb, Collins or many others.Actually I don't like the handle as it is kind of thick and blocky...Just look for a nice old axe of the shape you like and that is in good condition and pick it up, take it home and properly sharpen it.. These things are so common and cheap ain't no reason to have just one, same reason no reason to buy one with a damaged handle. .....I used to make hand forged small axes for a living and of course have made 100s of handles for them. You are really better off not to put a wedge in as the one fellow showed in that photo, where the wedge goes in straight front to back. This way the wedge only puts pressure on the sides of the eye and with use the head will loosen as it is pushed back, Is better to put the wedge at an angle so that pressure is applied to the sides and the front and back. No reason to glue the wedge in either but rather leave it proud by about 1/4 inch and if head loosens tap it in more. Also a small metal wedge can be used to tighten up a loose head too. I used to use a product called "Chair Lock" which is used to swell the joints up in wooden chairs. On axes and hammers with loose heads I would just put a few drops in the eye and it would tighten up the head. This product permanently expands the wood fibers. If you soak a head in water it will tighten up but then when it dries out will be even worse....T +1 on this. I have bought a number of Plumb, Kelly, Collins, and other older axes on eBay. Some of these I got for 2-3 for $10 plus another $10 for Priority mail shipping. $8 at the local hardware store and I have an axe that is really hard to find nowadays. Moreover, I have a piece of American industrial history. It is amazing how many different axe foundaries as well as axe head styles have existed here in the US. |
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I have their chopping axe and 14" hatchet and have been very satisfied with both. Big +1 from me too. I have their splitting axe (28" and 17"models). They are amazing. I've never split wood so easily. |
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sed one of these at a fire class, seemed like a good axe.
axe |
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8lbs is pretty heavy. For the price I'd get something from Gransfors, Wetterlings, or another high end axe company. |
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double tap |
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I want to add some things to the above post. The handle I ended up getting for the double bit was less than ideal because of the grain orientation and the heartwood areas (darker). I'll admit that it has held up well so far, but I plan on having some extra handles once I find some good examples locally. I chose not to use a metal wedge or locking ring because I plan on replacing it. The Gorilla glue seems to add a bit more "grab" because of the expansion. I don't recommend soaking in water or oil to tighten up loose axeheads. It seems to cause more problems than it solves. As shown in the 2nd link, I have modded some axeheads in a similar way. I used several types of files and finally sanding and polishing instead of the flap disc grinder. I have used electric grinders and sanders on cutting tools, but I'm always worried about messing up the temper due to friction/heat. If I were doing this on a larger scale or if I was pressed for time, I'd use electric implements more often. Estwings, Gerbers, Fiskars, ect... are OK for what they are. I liked having an Estwing in the Jeep because I could use it to free people from vehicles. The hammer like pole and solid steel handle are good for prying and smashing. Other than that specific scenario, I would choose a traditional axe any time. EDIT here's a link to a site about old tools, the specific link is about Kelly axes.... Old Tools truth. if you get an axe, try not to grind it. i'm glad i learned my lesson the hard way on a cheap craftsman axe. it was a bit dull, so i sharpened it with a bench grinder. i noticed the steel change colors and thought "fffuuuuuccccckkkk". it gets dull pretty quick (maybe it wasn't even tempered right in the first place, but who knows) now i know to use files to sharpen stuff instead of grinding 
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To many good old axes out there that can be bought for $5 or $10 at flea markets for me to understand why somebody would pay alot for some new axe. I do have a gransfors Hunters axe, the only reason I bought it was a guy at the flea market had it priced at $20 and i couldn't turn it down. It is a nice axe but certainly no better then an old Plumb, Collins or many others.Actually I don't like the handle as it is kind of thick and blocky...Just look for a nice old axe of the shape you like and that is in good condition and pick it up, take it home and properly sharpen it.. These things are so common and cheap ain't no reason to have just one, same reason no reason to buy one with a damaged handle. .....I used to make hand forged small axes for a living and of course have made 100s of handles for them. You are really better off not to put a wedge in as the one fellow showed in that photo, where the wedge goes in straight front to back. This way the wedge only puts pressure on the sides of the eye and with use the head will loosen as it is pushed back, Is better to put the wedge at an angle so that pressure is applied to the sides and the front and back. No reason to glue the wedge in either but rather leave it proud by about 1/4 inch and if head loosens tap it in more. Also a small metal wedge can be used to tighten up a loose head too. I used to use a product called "Chair Lock" which is used to swell the joints up in wooden chairs. On axes and hammers with loose heads I would just put a few drops in the eye and it would tighten up the head. This product permanently expands the wood fibers. If you soak a head in water it will tighten up but then when it dries out will be even worse....T +1 on this. I have bought a number of Plumb, Kelly, Collins, and other older axes on eBay. Some of these I got for 2-3 for $10 plus another $10 for Priority mail shipping. $8 at the local hardware store and I have an axe that is really hard to find nowadays. Moreover, I have a piece of American industrial history. It is amazing how many different axe foundaries as well as axe head styles have existed here in the US. I have to respectfully disagree. I've got 3 gransfors bruks (big, medium and small) and a wetterlings wildlife hatched with a wetterlings mini on the way. I've been through using the american style older tools. Most of them need to be upset, if you buy them at the flea market or some such. Because they've been "sharpened" either improperly or a few too many times. In fact, imho, american axes and hatchets start out too thick to begin with. I can take a 2" limb off a green ash tree with one stroke from my full size gransfors. They are all harder and take/keep a better edge than any american axe I've had. I use my small wetterlings more than my belt knife when in the woods. I'm a den leader for the cub scouts. We were making figure four deadfall triggers one day. They were using their mora knives that I bought them for Christmas and I my small wetterlings. I (albeit with considerably more experience) had the trigger done before they could complete one part. But, I digress. Any old, decent axe will fill the bill for the average/occasional user. But if you want to use a tool that is really a thing of beauty and an actual joy to use, treat yourself to one I've mentioned. |
| There is a nice discussion about axes pinned in General Outdoor Discussions. It also refers to An Ax to Grind: A Practical Ax Manual, by Bernie Weisgerber . It is the encyclopedia of axe care. |
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To many good old axes out there that can be bought for $5 or $10 at flea markets for me to understand why somebody would pay alot for some new axe. I do have a gransfors Hunters axe, the only reason I bought it was a guy at the flea market had it priced at $20 and i couldn't turn it down. It is a nice axe but certainly no better then an old Plumb, Collins or many others.Actually I don't like the handle as it is kind of thick and blocky...Just look for a nice old axe of the shape you like and that is in good condition and pick it up, take it home and properly sharpen it.. These things are so common and cheap ain't no reason to have just one, same reason no reason to buy one with a damaged handle. .....I used to make hand forged small axes for a living and of course have made 100s of handles for them. You are really better off not to put a wedge in as the one fellow showed in that photo, where the wedge goes in straight front to back. This way the wedge only puts pressure on the sides of the eye and with use the head will loosen as it is pushed back, Is better to put the wedge at an angle so that pressure is applied to the sides and the front and back. No reason to glue the wedge in either but rather leave it proud by about 1/4 inch and if head loosens tap it in more. Also a small metal wedge can be used to tighten up a loose head too. I used to use a product called "Chair Lock" which is used to swell the joints up in wooden chairs. On axes and hammers with loose heads I would just put a few drops in the eye and it would tighten up the head. This product permanently expands the wood fibers. If you soak a head in water it will tighten up but then when it dries out will be even worse....T +1 on this. I have bought a number of Plumb, Kelly, Collins, and other older axes on eBay. Some of these I got for 2-3 for $10 plus another $10 for Priority mail shipping. $8 at the local hardware store and I have an axe that is really hard to find nowadays. Moreover, I have a piece of American industrial history. It is amazing how many different axe foundaries as well as axe head styles have existed here in the US. Found a nice old Swiss axe that has some rust and pitting on it whats the best way to take care of this? I also found a nice Kelly Temper and a Mann that have heavy pitting on it any advice would help. |