[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Off road capabilities (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 11/16/2009 4:30:48 PM EDT
| I am looking for a everyday driver that I can take off road. i was thinking Jeep wrangler or cherokee (not the grand), I have 5k so spend and all I find is junk. got any ideas? |
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How "vintage" are you willing to go? '87-'91 K-5 Blazers (these are the fuel injected ones) can be found routinely for around 5k for nice survivor condition vehicles. Any less than that in price is usually a project.
Buttloads of Jeeps on flea bay in the 5k BIN range ––- may have to fly in and drive back in some cases, but they are out there |
| Small cherokee or toyota tacoma. Look south . Hell for that matter get out of il. Summers are as hot as they are here.....winters are way way worse.....and spring....well in 4 years out there I outran 3 tornados....been here 11 years now.....havent seen a one.....Food is better in chicago tho |
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You should be able to find a decent Cherokee for $5k. Wranglers tend to go for more, altho 5k should get you something. Remember the Jeeps are tough as hell, the 4.0 inline is good for 200k plus.. Ops I agree with the above. Cherokees (XJ) tend to run a couple thousand less then a comparable Wrangler (TJ or YJ). I would think for 5k you can find a XJ with none or minimal rust and less then 100k for under your budget. You can find beater XJs here in upstate NY all the time for under 1k but rust is a big issue here. Wranglers go for more unless its a frame rusted YJ or a beat to hell TJ. the 4.0 6cyl is good for 200k+ miles. I have had a few with over that on it and they ran good with a tune up. I currently run a 98 TJ with 144k on the clock and knock on wood it has been pretty good to me. On a side note it seems that cash for clunkers program ran the cost of good used 4x4s through the roof 
I just sold my lifted and locked 98 grand cherokee for $4300. Figured it would be best to pay off some debt and go back to only having one vehicle. |
I bought 2 XJ's this year.A RUST FREE 1989 Laredo with a 4.0 and AT.Factory tire carrier,newer TJ wheels/tires and a 3in. lift for $500-And a CLEAN "97 Sport that had a bad water pump for $450!These are clean solid drivers,not junk.I recomend looking for a good deal on one,then putting some money into it.Both mine were off CRAIGSLIST.Here's the "89.
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newer xj's 97-01 in good shape with low miles have really become scarce.
I paid 7K for my 01 with 65K on it last summer. They've gone up even from that. Cash for Clunkers killed tens of thousands of them. Rust is a huge issue for the older ones especially up north. |
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I would stick to an early 90s 3/4 ton 4x4 pickup regular cab 8' bed from an area without rust, ideally with a manual trans,a chevy 350 engine, and as little powered anything as you can get (no powered windows, door locks, nose picker, etc). Stick to vinal seats. In other words, a work truck. These are fairly inexpensive and more to the point will likely cost as little as possible to maintain. the reason for the manual trans is the cost of repairs are far less than an automatic and they will likely go to 300+K miles with only clutch replacements. In southern idaho, you can find a nice truck of this sort for the amount of money you are considering. finally for off road, the manual trans is much better unless you are willing to install a really big trans cooler and it will give you much better control crawling over rocks and the like. the 3/4 ton (i.e. 2500 HD) is much more durable than the 1/2 ton and likely to run longer with fewer problems for off road and very rough use.
A 4x4 3/4 ton regular cab 8' bed pickup is fine for most of the off road use you are likely to need under survival conditions. |
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Like others have said, $5000 will definitely get you a Cherokee (XJ 1984-2001) in good shape. In my opinion, the XJ is the best bang for your buck with a Jeep. There are a ton of them and they aren't as coveted as Wranglers. With a four-door, you get a lot more lockable carrying capacity and the longer wheelbase makes for a much better ride. The only drawback (from an aftermarket modification perspective) is its unibody frame.
However, that won't do much if you are trying to get a newer (97-06) Wrangler (TJ), and that is what I would be looking for if you want a Wrangler. The older Wranglers (YJ, 1987-1995), while cheap, aren't nearly as good for a daily driver (due to the leaf spring suspension on such a short wheelbase) and from my experience, tend to require a lot more preventative maintenance than their newer counterparts. If you are set on a YJ, shoot for as new a model as possible because the earlier versions of the 4.0L were absolute junk (in terms of engine management, not mechanics). If a Wrangler is in your future, definitely get one with the 4.0L. The 2.5L 4-banger isn't a bad motor, but it isn't exactly the best at pushing around something as aerodynamic as a brick. I'd lean toward the Cherokee if I had that cash and wanted something capable both on and off road. |
| $5k would buy you a nice worked on Scout II, 1980 would be ideal. Probably quite a few in your area that have been "restored" for deer lease trucks. Dana 44s front and rear, borg warner tranny, dana 300 transfer case. Pretty much bomb proof running gear and engine but the AC will be a problem. |
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Like others have said, $5000 will definitely get you a Cherokee (XJ 1984-2001) in good shape. In my opinion, the XJ is the best bang for your buck with a Jeep. There are a ton of them and they aren't as coveted as Wranglers. With a four-door, you get a lot more lockable carrying capacity and the longer wheelbase makes for a much better ride. The only drawback (from an aftermarket modification perspective) is its unibody frame. However, that won't do much if you are trying to get a newer (97-06) Wrangler (TJ), and that is what I would be looking for if you want a Wrangler. The older Wranglers (YJ, 1987-1995), while cheap, aren't nearly as good for a daily driver (due to the leaf spring suspension on such a short wheelbase) and from my experience, tend to require a lot more preventative maintenance than their newer counterparts. If you are set on a YJ, shoot for as new a model as possible because the earlier versions of the 4.0L were absolute junk (in terms of engine management, not mechanics). If a Wrangler is in your future, definitely get one with the 4.0L. The 2.5L 4-banger isn't a bad motor, but it isn't exactly the best at pushing around something as aerodynamic as a brick. I'd lean toward the Cherokee if I had that cash and wanted something capable both on and off road. I have both, a wrangler (TJ) and a 2000 Cherokee. This post is dead on, and I couldn't agree more...FTIW |
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Like others have said, $5000 will definitely get you a Cherokee (XJ 1984-2001) in good shape. In my opinion, the XJ is the best bang for your buck with a Jeep. There are a ton of them and they aren't as coveted as Wranglers. With a four-door, you get a lot more lockable carrying capacity and the longer wheelbase makes for a much better ride. The only drawback (from an aftermarket modification perspective) is its unibody frame. However, that won't do much if you are trying to get a newer (97-06) Wrangler (TJ), and that is what I would be looking for if you want a Wrangler. The older Wranglers (YJ, 1987-1995), while cheap, aren't nearly as good for a daily driver (due to the leaf spring suspension on such a short wheelbase) and from my experience, tend to require a lot more preventative maintenance than their newer counterparts. If you are set on a YJ, shoot for as new a model as possible because the earlier versions of the 4.0L were absolute junk (in terms of engine management, not mechanics). If a Wrangler is in your future, definitely get one with the 4.0L. The 2.5L 4-banger isn't a bad motor, but it isn't exactly the best at pushing around something as aerodynamic as a brick. I'd lean toward the Cherokee if I had that cash and wanted something capable both on and off road. I have both, a wrangler (TJ) and a 2000 Cherokee. This post is dead on, and I couldn't agree more...FTIW I agree 100%...and will add if you keep the oil changed at 3000 and use a quality filter the 4.0 will last almost forever. The better half has a 2000 Cherokee with 139,000 miles that runs like a top and does not use a drop of oil. The Cherokee is also surprisingly capable offload even in stock form. |
| $5K should get you an 80 Series Toyota Land Cruiser with plenty of miles left in it. |
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I cant travel to get my BOV I am on call 24/7. I am looking in my area and there is nothing I am always up for a road trip on someone else's dime. 
My son and I went from Ohio to Oklahoma and back in 30 hours picking up a car with a tow dolly. One slept and the other drove. |
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Need more info How many people do you plan to carry? 2 and a small dog How much cargo? A wrangler has enough room for a few grocery sacks before you have to start strappin stuff to the outside. BOBs and small bags Will you be towing anything? no Are you good with a wrench? Yes I am now looking for a jeep wrangler in 97-06 |
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The problem with that vehicle is service parts availability. Working in the off-roading community for years, I can tell you that if the power steering goes out on that vehicle that you should take out a small loan. Not your normal vehicle = Cool points Not your normal vehicle = $$$$$$$$ When it is mass produced or mass imported it usually equals inexpensive service parts. |
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I am now looking for a jeep wrangler in 97-06 Something to consider now is the 04-06 Wrangler Unlimited, but only if you find one totaled that you can rebuild with your $5k budget. $5k is going to put you in the 97-99 year range and you will have to bargain or get really lucky to find one at that price. If you (or anyone) has any Jeep questions, let me know. I worked in the Jeep aftermarket business for years and don't mind sharing what I know. Cory |
| You could look for a Ford Ranger too. They are small and nimble. I'd suggest a late 80s (although they are getting hard to find in good condition) with the twin I-beam front suspension. Just about bomb proof. I've had a few over the past years and beat the snot out of them. They just ask for more. |
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Personally I would avoid a jeep wrangler/cj because of poor gas mileage, towing capacity and storage space. You'll get better storage and towing with a XJ/blazer/explorer/etc. I have yet to see a wrangler that hasn't needed a new transmission at 150K. Hell, you'll probably get a better deal on a pickup with a topper.
Look at a mil surplus blazer––decent ones here with <50K are 3-4K. When the fantasy SHTF event occurs are you REALLY going to need the "amazing" abilities of a jeep or would you rather be able to carry more guns, ammo, food, or water (or GAS) in a truck? The truck will also allow you to tow things––boat, truck, car, trailer, camper, etc. Are you really going to climb huge boulders in your jeep with 44"s? Any 4x4 in good condition should take care of your needs. Hell the granolas driving 4x4 suburus will probably do better because of better mileage. Don't get me wrong...I own a jeep (M38) and it's an entirely worthless BOV vehicle. They're cool, fun, but IMO not the best. I also am not a fan of wranglers in the winter––cold and the short wheelbase makes for good spinning. Its your trip man. NH |
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IMO if you are looking at Jeeps.. The XJ/Cherokee route is the way to go.
The used stock cherokees will be a lot less abused than your average jeep, and from my experience you'll have less issues with it. YJ/TJ/Rubicons end up being money pits unless you know how to work on a vehicle inside and out. You also have the storage/seating issues with traditional "jeeps", so all things are pointing toward the Cherokee route for you. Go find one 
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I have to jump aboard the Jeep Cherokee fan club.
You should be able to find an XJ at the price you are considering. Craigslist always has them and I think the recession is causing some people that keep them as hobby vehicles to sell them––-seemingly more of the tricked out ones than six months ago. I see advertisements around $5000 for a solid vehicle and less if you don't mind some work. A few thousand more if you want the lift kit and huge tires. They come and go and in various configurations and conditions. If you wait and monitor Ebay and Craigslist, I'm certain you'll find nearly what your looking for. I'm buying another when I get off deployment––-I might buy two. I had a 1999 Cherokee Sport (manual, two door) that ran like a top until a 'catastrophic thermal excursion' seized motor on the way to work one AM with 122K miles on the engine. I had that Jeep up and down the east coast and through some difficult terrains from 2001 to late 2009. I bought it with 35,000 on the odometer for 13K (like new). After the '99, I found 1996 Standard Edition on Ebay offered by a local dealer: 6K with 82000 in 2009. I'm replacing all the parts most likely to fail (PS pump, water pump, joints, bearings, etc) based on my experience with the first Jeep. Like RRFlyer mentioned, Cash for Clunkers decimated a large part of the North American XJ population. However, Chrysler is doing great with the Commander and Patriot models in the Before-the-Real-Estate-Bubble-Crashed demographic </snide>. It's the survivalist Volkswagen! |
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I am going to have to be another vote for the Jeep Cherokee(XJ).
I haven't checked the prices recently but I am sure you can find something that fits in your budget.I would recommend that you look at a 99" if possible.If you are looking at it for it's offroad capability you want an earlier 99" with the high pinion Dana 30 in the front and the Chrysler 8.25 rear end.The reason I say 99" is that it has improvements that the pre-99"s didn't have like more unibody reinforcement but it doesn't have the coil packs like the 2000+. If the 99" is out of your budget look at the 95's.They don't have all the emissions crap the 96+ have.Either way,you can't go wrong.The 4.0 is a great engine.The tranny's are fine and the vehicles are surprisingly capable stock.The only other thing I would recommend you consider is the transfer case.You have the NP242(selec-trac)and the NP231(comand-trac).If you live somewhere it snows the 242 with it's full time 4wd mode is worth considering. |
| the only cherokees in my area for around 5k are 88-93 and have over 200k miles. I was starting to look at the expeditions now because I can get one with less than 120k miles for around 3500. and that leaves 1500 of upgrades. I would like to find a wrangler for that price but I dont think its going to happen since snow is comming. I want something that is like new and I dont want a pick up truck or something old. Craigs list here in chicago sucks everyone thinks their car is worth 10k with over 150k miles on it |
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I cant travel I would if I had a day off. and craigslist sucks for the chicago area. I searched west and south and nothing comes up. I guess I will change and start looking for a ford expedition. Chicago crazedlist search: 4X4 forsale/wanted cars and trucks - all upper limit $5000 titles only 493 results 2000 Durango @ $2900 1997 Blazer @ $2999 Those are in the first ten posts and are competitive to the Jeep If you absolutely must have a Jeep then wait until you find one. If you need a 4X4 SUV soon and cannot travel then you need to find a group of acceptable vehicles, then buy the best one you find within your time limit. |
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The problem with that vehicle is service parts availability. Working in the off-roading community for years, I can tell you that if the power steering goes out on that vehicle that you should take out a small loan. Not your normal vehicle = Cool points Not your normal vehicle = $$$$$$$$ When it is mass produced or mass imported it usually equals inexpensive service parts. Thank you. Good info to have. This thread interests me. I'm looking for a second vehicle to use as a BOV and "dump and trailhead vehicle" Based on this thread, an extended cab 4x4 V6 F150 work truck with a manual tranny sounds like it might be a great fit for me. I've done a little poking around, though, and they aren't easy to find. How reliable are the other F150 engines? I saw a lot more 4x4s with the 4.6 and 5.4 V8s than the V6 suggested by some above. How reliable are the automatic trannys? I had a bad experience with a Ford automatic (in a Mercury Sable, though)? |
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i was amazed at the prices. i have a clean 85 cj7 that has a moderate amount of offroad accessories (read: all mods are performance based and you hardly know they are there). i was offered $20,000 at the last jamboree i attended i bought it new for $6,900 and put 350k miles on it, & maybe $4,000 in accessories 15 years ago.
the older you go the more performance you will get out of it. i recommend cj or earlier. you can do all the work yourself and pay next to nothing in insurance as they are considered a classic. mine is my daily driver. |
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I was on the jeep forums and I think I might go with a jeep as long as it has a V6. I did see a 99 grand cherokee that was lifter and it looked like it would get the job done for what I am looking for. Any departure from how the factory made a vehicle will have maintenance considerations. Some mods help, some mods are for looks, and some mods cost reliability. Lifting a 4x4 is fashionable but may be only for looks and actually hurt reliability. Lifted trucks often get less mpg than stock 4X4. LL Do you do your own mechanical work or do you have a shop do the work? If you do your own work then the cost of a lifted truck may not impact you as much as if you have a shop do the work. |
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Thank you. Good info to have. This thread interests me. I'm looking for a second vehicle to use as a BOV and "dump and trailhead vehicle" Based on this thread, an extended cab 4x4 V6 F150 work truck with a manual tranny sounds like it might be a great fit for me. I've done a little poking around, though, and they aren't easy to find. How reliable are the other F150 engines? I saw a lot more 4x4s with the 4.6 and 5.4 V8s than the V6 suggested by some above. How reliable are the automatic trannys? I had a bad experience with a Ford automatic (in a Mercury Sable, though)? The F150 is a decent enough truck with a fairly reliable drivetrain. The older models had a 300ci I6 motor that was great for torque (as most inline motors are). The 5.0L V8 is a super reliable motor with a TON of available parts, both service and aftermarket. Of course, the 5.0L is an "older" motor that was replaced by the 4.6 and 5.4 motors and won't be as prevalent in today's market. I've been reading that Ford will be putting a new 5.0L in their new trucks in the future. From my experience, as long as the auto transmissions have been serviced properly (fluid and filter change every 40k), they tend to last a lot longer than those that don't. Most people don't realize how much work the fluid in an auto trans actually does. I'm not sure what Ford used in their newer trucks, but in the older F150's, they used the AOD which (if maintained), is a very good auto trans. |
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Any departure from how the factory made a vehicle will have maintenance considerations. Some mods help, some mods are for looks, and some mods cost reliability. Perfectly stated. Lifting a 4x4 is fashionable but may be only for looks and actually hurt reliability. Lifted trucks often get less mpg than stock 4X4. I can't tell you how many times a customer would come in with a vehicle they lifted themselves wondering why they had no power and 7 mpg. Lifting a 4x4 and putting larger tires on it does decrease MPGs if you stick with the factory gearing in the differentials. Those can be changed out (it isn't cheap, nor easy without the proper tools and know-how) in order to put the vehicle back in the correct power band, getting you a lot closer to factory MPGs. Additionally, while you are in there you can add some kind of traction device so that you actually have true 4wd. That's right everyone! The 4wd you purchased probably doesn't have lockers or limited-slips in the differentials which means when you get stuck, only one front and one rear tire will spin. That 4wd is actually more likely a 2wd. In most cases this isn't a problem, but if you've ever been stuck in the mud and can't get out, you know what I'm talking about. |
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I bought this 89 4Runner a few years back for $2K. It runs like a top, and is my everyday ride, as well as my woods truck.
Monday, while driving some trails in the Osceola National Forest, I drove into what I thought was shallow water covering part of a logging road. when the whole front end dropped into a hole, and water flowed back over the top of the hood, I knew I had mis judged the depth. Still, in 4H, it pulled right out. The engine compartment and grill were full of water weeds and lots of steam, but it did not get stuck or die.
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Perhaps a little more definition of what you consider "off road". Sounds like you're in N. IL, so the terrain the is not quite the same as ID. BTW< expand your search for Xj's to WI, but I think i mentioned that in your other thread.
 I've driven crown vics/ caprices places where 70% of the masses think of as "off road".
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I didn't realize that Cherokees had actually gone up in price.I picked up my 1999 4.0 4wd 2.5 years ago for $3,900(ex police vehicle with the police towing package,extended idle switch etc).
If you are looking at a grand do your homework.Some of the early 2000's models(XJ,grands and wranglers) with the inline six with the newer style heads(0331 stamped on the side)have had some pretty bad problems with the heads cracking. |
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Perhaps a little more definition of what you consider "off road". Sounds like you're in N. IL, so the terrain the is not quite the same as ID. BTW< expand your search for Xj's to WI, but I think i mentioned that in your other thread.
I've driven crown vics/ caprices places where 70% of the masses think of as "off road".I would like a suv for the space, I live 9.7 miles from wor one way and when we go to the store and it wont fit in the trunk we will bring the suv for it. |