Posted: 9/13/2009 3:22:35 PM EDT
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Looking for a few good quality inverters in the 3000-5000 watt range. Needs to be rated for constant duty. Anybody know if these are any good? http://www.dcacpowerinverters.com/24_volt_power_inverters.html <input type="hidden" id="gwProxy" /> <input type="hidden" id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" /> |
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Do you need 110VAC only or do you also need 220VAC? Do you need "pure" sine wave or will "modified" sine wave do the job? What are you planning to run (resistive loads or inductive loads) and for how long? Resistive loads don't care much about the quality of the AC... inductive loads can be pretty finicky about AC quality... some motors have a hard time running (at all) with dirty (closer to square wave) "modified" sine wave AC - some of the cleaner (closer to sine wave) "modified" sine wave AC would probably be OK... Pure sine wave inverters are nice but costly (there's always a trade off)...
P.S.: For another $150 you can double your wattage here |
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Quoted: Do you need 110VAC only or do you also need 220VAC? Do you need "pure" sine wave or will "modified" sine wave do the job? What are you planning to run (resistive loads or inductive loads) and for how long? Resistive loads don't care much about the quality of the AC... inductive loads can be pretty finicky about AC quality... some motors have a hard time running (at all) with dirty (closer to square wave) "modified" sine wave AC - some of the cleaner (closer to sine wave) "modified" sine wave AC would probably be OK... Pure sine wave inverters are nice but costly (there's always a trade off)... P.S.: For another $150 you can double your wattage here A couple refridgerators, oven, hot water heater, and a couple large 220v pumps for water. several lights, etc. Not necessarily all at the same time and only the refrigerators will need to run 24/7. Its a back up in case the power goes out so I don't have to run the generator constantly. I don't need UPS though. thanks for the link, are those a good brand? |
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fridges do not need to run all day. best thing to do is buy a couple of good thermometers that have an alarm that you can set for a certian temp and put the probe in the fridge and stick the actual display on the door. then you can power them when the temp hits the alarm. something like this. i would contact the maker to make sure the temp can be set as low as the fridge needs to be set. 40* max.
is this going to be for "emergency" power outages or for an off the grid system? as for the water heater, if you get a insulating blanket it will hold heat for quite some time even after the power is out. insulate the pipes as well to help. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Do you need 110VAC only or do you also need 220VAC? Do you need "pure" sine wave or will "modified" sine wave do the job? What are you planning to run (resistive loads or inductive loads) and for how long? Resistive loads don't care much about the quality of the AC... inductive loads can be pretty finicky about AC quality... some motors have a hard time running (at all) with dirty (closer to square wave) "modified" sine wave AC - some of the cleaner (closer to sine wave) "modified" sine wave AC would probably be OK... Pure sine wave inverters are nice but costly (there's always a trade off)... P.S.: For another $150 you can double your wattage here A couple refridgerators, oven, hot water heater, and a couple large 220v pumps for water. several lights, etc. Not necessarily all at the same time and only the refrigerators will need to run 24/7. Its a back up in case the power goes out so I don't have to run the generator constantly. I don't need UPS though. thanks for the link, are those a good brand?  Those pumps better have a significant amount of batteries behind them for that inverter.
What is the amps those pumps draw ? Submersible pump ? I'm just not seeing it. I would either get a backup generator for the pump or store some water in barrels. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Do you need 110VAC only or do you also need 220VAC? Do you need "pure" sine wave or will "modified" sine wave do the job? What are you planning to run (resistive loads or inductive loads) and for how long? Resistive loads don't care much about the quality of the AC... inductive loads can be pretty finicky about AC quality... some motors have a hard time running (at all) with dirty (closer to square wave) "modified" sine wave AC - some of the cleaner (closer to sine wave) "modified" sine wave AC would probably be OK... Pure sine wave inverters are nice but costly (there's always a trade off)... P.S.: For another $150 you can double your wattage here A couple refridgerators, oven, hot water heater, and a couple large 220v pumps for water. several lights, etc. Not necessarily all at the same time and only the refrigerators will need to run 24/7. Its a back up in case the power goes out so I don't have to run the generator constantly. I don't need UPS though. thanks for the link, are those a good brand? Those pumps better have a significant amount of batteries behind them for that inverter.
What is the amps those pumps draw ? Submersible pump ? I'm just not seeing it. I would either get a backup generator for the pump or store some water in barrels. +1 Normally if a pump is a 220 pump it isn't a small one. Large pumps take large amounts of power. Are you considering startup current as well? Those pumps may easily draw 3 or 4 times their normal operating current at startup. Will your system be prepared to handle that? |
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First, none of the inverters posted here will provide 220VAC. Second, I don't think you will be able to power your stated loads - my electric hot water heater is 4,500 watts. A 1 HP electric motor at my house (pool pump) draws 1,700 watts running (start up is probably at least triple that), an electric oven will draw 2,000 to 4,000 watts <the natural gas versions of the water heater and the oven obviously draw only minimal amounts of electricity>.
A couple refridgerators, oven, hot water heater, and a couple large 220v pumps for water. several lights, etc. Not necessarily all at the same time and only the refrigerators will need to run 24/7. Its a back up in case the power goes out so I don't have to run the generator constantly. I don't need UPS though. thanks for the link, are those a good brand? What is your battery bank like??? Using "quick and dirty" estimation >>> 10kwh of load would discharge a bank of 8 4D batteries to about 50% (generally recommended limit of discharge). The bank of 8 4D batteries weighs about 1,000 pounds and costs about $3,600... You might want to rethink your plan... you can buy an appropriately sized generator for a lot less than the cost of the batteries alone... You may want to consider powering just the refrigerator and a light bulb (hi efficiency florescents) or 2... You may also want to consider a "pure sine wave" inverter if you're running a fridge... |