Posted: 6/28/2009 4:21:42 PM EDT
| How is this done? |
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This is an awesome little page.
LINK! I bet that'll help you a lot! |
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My grandfather had a pedal stone that he sharpened axes and garden tools on. No idea if you could get one of those today (except in an antiquite store).
As a little boy, I would sit and pump pedal that thing for hours, and maybe grind holes in leaves of the trees 
ETA: JUST like that one in the link |
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Use a file and a glove. If you do not use a glove, you WILL cut the crap outta yer hand...
Lay the axe on its side, bit facing you. Works well if you lay it on a step, rail, flat stump, etc. Place a hand on top of the axe to pin it to the stump. Ensure the bit hangs over the edge of the stump, bit towards you. Grasp the file. Place on the bit, at appropriate angle, press down moderately, and push file towards the bit. Repear along the edge. Flip axe over, repeat on other side. Simple but works for me. Hint: DO NOT let axe get stupid dull. Use axe carefully, never hear dirt (dings up blade). Sharpen frequently. Its very easy to sharpen a little bit frequently, but a royal pain in the ass to try to reshape a really abused bit. |
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A vitrified grinder is OK, if ou are really really careful. I've sharpened thousands of hay mower teeth and fire rakes with a wheel in an angle grinder.
A belt grinder is OK if you are very careful A flap disc on an angle grinder is almost impossable to burn, but you can easially remove too much material. I like a 8 or 10 in mill bastard followed up by a stone. I know a 8 or 10 inch mill bastard works, smaller is probally too short, and too much longer is probally going to be too course. Plus most new axes need to have their bevel redone- a lot of work for a mill bastard. I like the flap disc for this, plus sharpening fire rakes, mattocks, etc. Shovels and hoes are just as easy to do with a file. Ditto for machettes, but I follow up with a few strokes with a stone. |
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Quoted:
I like the flap disc for this, plus sharpening fire rakes, mattocks, etc. Shovels and hoes are just as easy to do with a file. Ditto for machettes, but I follow up with a few strokes with a stone. I use a disc sander also for the rough stuff, then use a file. I will follow up with a diamond hone if I have the time or need a smooth shave. Try to keep a axe as sharp as a razor, just as I would with any knife. Make so much difference. |
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Usually I use a mill file, too (they are called mill files because they were designed for sharpening the saw teeth in a lumber mill). If you touch it regularly and avoid gravel and rocksa mill file will keep a keen edge to an axe. I also tend to the shallow angle for sharpness versus a blunter angle for durability. If you take care of the edge then a sharper edge touched up now and then works great. But, I need to look into a power tool for an axe I bought recently that has a HORRIBLE screwed up geometry. Never saw an axe so poorly ground. My fault for not checking before buying, but I just assumed all axes have a decent base grind. They used to, but I guess the cheap crap these days they don;t even bother doing the course grinding halfway decent. I'll have to check out the angle grinder idea. |
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Quoted:
Usually I use a mill file, too (they are called mill files because they were designed for sharpening the saw teeth in a lumber mill). If you touch it regularly and avoid gravel and rocksa mill file will keep a keen edge to an axe. I also tend to the shallow angle for sharpness versus a blunter angle for durability. If you take care of the edge then a sharper edge touched up now and then works great. But, I need to look into a power tool for an axe I bought recently that has a HORRIBLE screwed up geometry. Never saw an axe so poorly ground. My fault for not checking before buying, but I just assumed all axes have a decent base grind. They used to, but I guess the cheap crap these days they don;t even bother doing the course grinding halfway decent. I'll have to check out the angle grinder idea. I need to do that also. A while back, a couple of folks who really seemed to know their stuff directed me away from a grinder and towards a different power set up. I can't find that thread, but would really like to know the best power options. I looked at Harbor Freight today, but all I could was a grinder. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I picked up a couple of older axe heads and they really need work. Thanks. |
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Quoted:
Usually I use a mill file, too (they are called mill files because they were designed for sharpening the saw teeth in a lumber mill). If you touch it regularly and avoid gravel and rocksa mill file will keep a keen edge to an axe. I also tend to the shallow angle for sharpness versus a blunter angle for durability. If you take care of the edge then a sharper edge touched up now and then works great. But, I need to look into a power tool for an axe I bought recently that has a HORRIBLE screwed up geometry. Never saw an axe so poorly ground. My fault for not checking before buying, but I just assumed all axes have a decent base grind. They used to, but I guess the cheap crap these days they don;t even bother doing the course grinding halfway decent. I'll have to check out the angle grinder idea. A belt sander would do a good job to bring the edge geometry back. Keep it cool by using a rough grit. Don't press too hard. Dipping the head will help keep it cool. Finish up with a finer grit. After the initial fix, use a file to maintain. |
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Quoted:
Use a file and a glove. If you do not use a glove, you WILL cut the crap outta yer hand... Lay the axe on its side, bit facing you. Works well if you lay it on a step, rail, flat stump, etc. Place a hand on top of the axe to pin it to the stump. Ensure the bit hangs over the edge of the stump, bit towards you. Grasp the file. Place on the bit, at appropriate angle, press down moderately, and push file towards the bit. Repear along the edge. Flip axe over, repeat on other side. Simple but works for me. Hint: DO NOT let axe get stupid dull. Use axe carefully, never hear dirt (dings up blade). Sharpen frequently. Its very easy to sharpen a little bit frequently, but a royal pain in the ass to try to reshape a really abused bit. this. i like to put the ax on the work bench in the shop and use a c-clamp on handle to hold it steady. use thick heavy duty gloves, i have a nice scar to show what happens when you don't (i was 13 and can blame it on lack of experience and proper instruction). this thread reminds me i need to refill my wood supply for this winter. |
| Tormek sharpening system. I have the axe / hatchett guides. Hollow ground every time. Then I keep a medium grit diamond card in my back pocket to keep it sharp during use. Bastard file for quick field repair for when you hit that inevitable piece of fencing hardware grown into the tree... |
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I worked for an active USFS fire crew 3 seasons. I have sharpened more tools than I care to do again.
The tools get beat to hell on a fire line and need to razor sharp for the best efficiency. Take a break - you sharpened your tool. At the station we checked and sharpened the tools every week even if it was a just a touch up and then taped the edge for storage. When I say 'tools', I mean plaskis, shoves, mc clouds, etc. All hand tools benefit from being sharp. As noted above: Several different files - large and small - coarse to fine. Clamp the tool down if you can - wear gloves - it is best to stroke toward the handle. |
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Hand crank grinders are VERY common and cheap...i see them all the time and it is a rare one that is priced over $5-$10...Make sure they have the tool rest still and larger ones will be better for this job....Most dont go for to much on ebay either though they can be heavy so postage might hurt you though many if taken apart could be sent in a $10.35 flat rate box.
In my experance the best way to sharpen an axe with a file is to put the head in a vice with the edge pointing straight up and then file it that way doing one side and then the other. I always just draw filed the edge running the file from top to bottom.[ or viser verser] Would be very hard to cut yourself this way unless you were really not paying attention ....Can be finished up with a stone. Tradtionaly an axe sharpening stone was round and was held in the palm of your hand but any sharpening stome would work. With power cant beat a belt sander......T |