Posted: 4/2/2007 4:08:58 PM EDT
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Ok, this might seem a little elemetary... But how do you guys pack your backpack? I read somewhere that the heavier items should go towards the bottom and towards your back... but what about the rest of the weight distribution. For instance, the lighter stuff (ie: spare clothes) are light and therefore should be packed towards the top... but yet the clothes are unimportant compared to other items in the backpack. Also, what do you guys use for "seperaters"... its the best term that comes to mind... but what do you guys use to keep your clothes seperate from your first aid seperate from your rations seperate from... you get it. Thanks in advance, any pics would be appreciated as well. DK |
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I doubt that there is a set formula. My Kelty pack had instructions said that heavier stuff goes on top. My co-worker swears up and down about compartmentalization and containerization of everything. He likes using tupperware and tins and so on to make sure that everything has its place, stuff that needs to stay dry will stay dry, and stuff will not get crushed in a drop or throw. He also hopes containerization will also offer some floatation, but he has not tried to see if it will sink or float yet. He likes to try and keep the heavier stuff towards the side of the BP that is towards the wearer. My daypack is kind of small and I don't worry so much about weight distribution so much as organization. |
Thats exactly what I'm stuck on... I like the looks of the Kifaru Maruader (spelling?) since it has webbing on the inside and could keep everything in seperate compartments by attaching pouches... however, I dont have the $ and am looking for ways to pack efficiently to get the items I want in a quick manner without making a mess. DK |
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I pack stuff in order of use. Sleeping bag goes on the bottom, cooking and extra clothes go in the middle, with heavy stuff close to the body, and food towards the top. Stuff like compass, knife, flashlight, snacks etc. go in outside or top pockets. I pack the sleeping bag in a couple garbage bags (the thick home depot type) most everything else either goes in zip-lock bags or smaller garbage bags... Packing for being waterproof is very important in western washington, where the average hike looks like this  |
| i go for heavy down low (closer to waistbelt) with my sleeping bag and pad strapped on the bottom and tent strapped to the top. if it's important it goes in an exterior pocket, and i have a dirty clothes stuff sack and a clean clothes one and everything is trashbagged/ziplocked especially if there is supposed to be rain |
If youre not familiar with backpacking, thats a fairly important point. It sucks to mix wet/sweaty/muddy clothes with dry/fresh/clean clothes. What works for that is you can get black garbage bags and white garbage bags.... black for clean white for dirty etc. |
Actually, guys, the rule is usually heavy stuff on top, near the shoulders, for most comfortable carrying.  Sleeping bag should go on the bottom, since it's usually the last thing you'll need. Soft stuff like clothes should go against the side of the pack that will rest against your back, while hard, pointy stuff like cookware should go on the outside and away from you. |
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Most of the "heavy down low" ideas will produce a poorly riding pack after only a couple of miles. for trail blazing or bushwacking you would pack most of your light stuff in the bottom, like your sleeping bag, thick insulative clothing, etc. pack your food (usually the heaviest stuff in your bag, unless you have f.d.right up against your shoulder blades. cook ware and tent/ tarp (75% of the time you don't need a tent) stuff you fit in the remaining room in the main part of your pack. keep your shell clothing near the top, and trail mix/ munchies easily accessable. water bottle goes in a pouch where it is easily accessable, and all the little important stuff usually goes on the top pouch (matches, map & compass, knife, sunscreen, etc) you'd get a lot better idea if you went to an REI or whatever you got nearby and just browsed the basic backpacking books. maybe even a library. for straight trail/ road hiking you'd tend to put the heavier stuff as high as you could put it, have much more of a top heavy load than a centered load eh- stuff sacks is what most backpackers use for separating different things. you can even get waterproof ones, but don't count on them untill you've used them in a real downpour. |
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how you pack your pack depends a lot on what pack you have. some packs have different compartments for different things. i use granite gear stuff and compression sacks for most of my gear. you want your heavy items mid to high in the pack.....the closer to the shoulders the better. what pack do you have? do you have pics? |
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You can't answer how to pack without knowing what kind of backpack you're using. External frames generally carry best with the heavy items higher up. Internal frames with the heavier items low down and close to the spine. Additionally the rougher the trail the lower down and closer to the spine you want anything heavy. .. I use waterproof bags to separate my gear. Clothes go in one. Sleeping Bag in another. Etc. If you're on a budget, plastic trash bags work well and are easy to replace. Otherwise, try something like Golite's Ultralight Stuff Sacks. When packing, squeeze as much air as possible out of each bag. This will make them smaller for packing and each will retain more than enough air to keep the pack afloat if necessary. |
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lowekey hit it on,, really simple. i use zip locks,,cheap,,light,,,, water proof. external packs are packed differently than intrenals. The externals are also more forgiving. Why? becuase the frame does the work of balanceing and spreading the load across your hips and back. Internals really dont have a true " frame" per say. They normally have two spines that run down the sides, with a sliding suspension of sorts so it can adjust to your torso size. Since they really do not have a "load bearing" suspension they depend on the load being close to your back( center of gravity) MOts palces will recommend heavy items be placed down the center close to you back . This is also why i belive y ou'll see internals with better hip belts that externals( least you used to) about the same now days. Ive used both. The internal is better for me now that i know how to pack, BUt for heavy,and unbalalnced loads a framed pack is much better IMHO> |
I've got an Internal Pack, and since I added a few things to my BoB last night and repacked it I got it to balance INFINITELY BETTER than it did when I was following the 'Heavy High & Away' method many people recommend here... With a good INTERNAL FRAME backpack, as described by Protus, MOST of the weight is carried NOT by your SHOULDERS (and Honestly, thinking body mechanics, why would you WANT that?), but by your HIPS with an extremely comfortable (Padded & very Adjustable) hip belt! I've tried the External Frame packs, and while they're good for added versatility (like transporting heavy batteries/radios, Jerry Cans, or Equipment), they're marginal for carrying a pack as it puts the weight further from your center of gravity. I can carry my 55# to 65# internal pack better than I could a 40# External pack because it allows me greater manuverability, a better balanced center of gravity, and when I've got my full gear set on it balances out even better. YMMV, but from now on I'm sticking with a great Internal Frame pack that's properly adjusted... I got mine on sale for $75 (6000 cu. in), and it was worth at least TWICE that amount considering the many back/shoulder aches (& Chiropractor visits) it has saved me! ETA: I like the idea of compression/stuff sacks for the clothing. I used to have coleman 'roll' type bags for my clothing, but they wore out with use and were too expensive to replace. I've gone back to garbage bags for now. I'm going to pick up a couple compression sacks, put the clothing inside garbage bags & compress them with the new compression sacks instead. I also carry my shooting gear inside my BoB, so I can just pop the top open, put it on, and then cinch down the bag (reducing its weight on the rear half of my body; redistributing it to the front), and I've got a lighter BoB that is yet even MORE manuverable. |
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Without reading all of the responses I'll add that it probably depends on the type of pack you have.... top loader, front loader, etc. Top loaders, it's usually a rule of thumb to pack it according to what you think you will be pulling out most frequently or first and stuff you are taking just in case on the bottom... prioritize. IN a front/panel loader... heavy on bottom... mainly so it doesn't crush your stuff. |
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Typically the rule of thumb for frame packs is on easy ground the weight goes high and on rough ground pack it lower. For internal frame packs the weight is usually lower and closer to the body although the idea of the weight up high for easy terrain also applies. I like the one big bag approach with a couple of small external pockets. I like to be able to keep everything in plastic bags in one big compartment. The outside pockets are for water bottle, camera, flashlite type of stuff. |
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I'll still never really understand the whole "Pack Heavy Items High" theory. How does it work? It seems to me to be totally counter-intuitive to efficiency & body mechanics. Other than the ability to keep staking more & more crap on top (and therefore carrying MORE)...I only see reasons why NOT to do it that way: 1.) You're increasing the height of your Center of Gravity making you more unstable, less manuverable, top heavy, and more prone to falling. 2.) You're not doing anything to increase COMFORT as you're INCREASING the load on your shoulders. By putting strain on your shoulders you're in effect putting strain on your SPINE requiring it to flex/move more in order to keep your balance. Your back muscles will get sore after a long hike from trying to stay upright, and your bones will ache too after 5+ miles. This pain is even MORE pronounced over uneven terrain. 3.) A good pack should have sufficient lumbar, hip, and spinal padding and support. If you've got a good pack you don't need to worry about 'hard items' pressing into your back as it just won't happen (unless you're terrible at packing). So there's no reason NOT to put it lower and closer to your hips/back. If you have an uncomfortable pack: Put it on Ebay and buy a BETTER ONE, but TRY IT ON before you BUY IT, and gather your preps before buying the pack to fit them in as you need to know how BIG of a pack you're gonna need. 4.) If your pack is top-heavy it is a P.I.T.A. to take it off & put it on as it won't balance correctly on your shoulders while you attempt to fasten the hip belt. 5.) If you put heavy items on top you're going to crush the lighter more fragile items beneath it. 6.) If you put heavy items on top you've got to remove THAT from the pack before accessing other (possibly more useful & frequently needed) smaller items deeper in the pack. I arrange my pack based upon two criteria: 1.) Weight (Heavier items lower or closer to back/spine/internal frame) 2.) Frequency of Use (Less frequently used items lower in pack) Weight (for the sake of balance, mobility, and comfort) takes priority over frequency of use. Why? 1.) Because most packs (mine included) have more than sufficient POCKETS/POUCHES, LASHING POINTS, and Tie-Down strapping to secure more frequently needed items closer to the outside of the pack for more easy access. This reduces/negates the need to access the MAIN COMPARTMENT of the pack while in transit. Tent & Insulated pad have outer tie downs. Sleeping bag has a bottom compartment accessible from the outside. Pack has a pocket with an attached bright florescent yellow cover for high visibility and added rain protection. Pack is waterproof, and frequently sprayed with water resistant spray/sealer to re-up the protection every year or so. 2.) Because of the NATURE of most packs: When are you actually WEARING your pack? WHILE YOU'RE MOVING/HIKING/WALKING. Do you wear your pack while you're sitting IN CAMP cooking? While you're lakeside catching fish/food to cook back at your camp? I don't lug around all that stuff. I only need to access the main compartment AFTER I have set up camp for the night (Usually about 5-6 PM). My typical day on the trail is like this: 1.) Wake, break down camp & repack the bag around sunrise after eating a breakfast (leftovers from the previous night). 2.) Hike & Walk (or recreation) until 5-6 PM with pack on. Occasional breaks to rest, eat snacks (like beef jerky, etc. kept in side pockets/pouches) and drink fluids. 3.) about 5-6 PM setup camp, get fire going (or get ready to light camp stove). 4.) ~6 to 8 PM Catch some fish or get some food to cook. 5.) Cook large meal, eat, drink, etc. 6.) ~9 to 10 PM go to sleep). 7.) Repeat. This way the ONLY time I've got my pack on is while in Transit (saving my back). This way I've ALWAYS got a good shelter, food, and water every night to rejuvenate my body after a long day. I usually eat a large breakfast and a large dinner with some light healthy snacks and plenty of water in between. Since I only keep the pack on while hiking during the daylight hours (but usually for 7-9 hours) I like to keep it COMFORTABLE by keeping a lower center of gravity instead of fighting the weight of a high-load when my pack is trying to lean left or right as I pass over various terrain. This way your body can turn faster/more smoothly, you can lean a little more when traversing obstacles without fear of flopping back & to the left or something, and you don't have to hunch your body so far forward to compensate for a pack that's trying to pull you backwards. For me the WEIGHT doesn't matter much if you've got it balanced/packed properly in a pack that's built well and properly fit to your body (torso height, belt, and straps all adjusted properly). Transferring the weight to your HIPS means you're only stressing mainly your hips/& legs with the load, and not so much with your SPINE & SHOULDERS. I've done the ALICE pack. I've done the External Kelty & Other external Frame packs. But I've really learned to LOVE a properly built internal pack and the comfort, mobility, & features they allow for long hikes or periods wearing it. |
Some of this is theory and some may be outdated. There used to be a rule of thumb that said something like for every pound you carry on your hips its like 5 pounds off your back. So having the weight high on easy terrain lets you lean forward a bit and keep the weight centered more over your hip belt. With the weight low it pulls your shoulders back so you keep having to strain your shoulder muscles to hold the weight. The newer internal frame packs hold the weight closer to your back so this isnt such a big deal. In this case the closer to your back you can keep the weight the better.... altho if you wear the shoulder straps loose you will end up hunching your shoulders and feeling fatigued. The difference is more noticable with heavy packs and even the internal packs feel better with the weight high on the back when you start getting up around 100 lbs. For a 20-30 pound pack just load it and compress it so it rides tight with little bouncing and you are good to go. For really rough terrain you should keep the weight low on your back for stability purposes. |
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Those are some good points... Edited to add: And I'm ***FAR*** from the be-all-end-all of how to pack things... These are just my observations & practices learned from what little backpacking experience I've got, and what I've gleaned off ARFCOM over the years. Just to test my new packs when I buy them I fill 'em to the brim (even into the expansion areas) with old college textbooks (A trick I read somewhere in Here on ARFCOM years ago), and compare it to my most recent previous pack. The internal frame pack weighed in around 115#!!!  The external frame had a smaller pack size/capacity because a LOT was supposed to be strapped to the frame externally, and it weighed around 90#...The difference I noticed was THEY FELT ABOUT THE SAME. The 90# pack was HEAVY when it sat ~3" off my hips/back. But the 115# internal frame didn't feel much heavier (the load WAS higher, but pretty consistent throughout) than the 90# pack because it was closer to my body. It still strained my back like a MF'er to carry 'em, and I had to lean forward quite a bit to carry the load. After 5-10 minutes of that crap & I unloaded the packs. WAY TOO HEAVY!  But I see the mechanics of it when you're talking about such insane loads! Especially shifting them for balance in different terrain. I'm just glad I don't need to do that. I'd much rather just ALWAYS have it packed for better balance. I got my pack down to about 55# with a newer tent (but I'll be buying a better one this summer), and it feels about like what a 45# pack on my old Kelty External Frame did further from my body. I just like the balance & weight distribution... I guess I can now understand the issue with the loading higher, but I don't really carry a load that requires such a carry (unless I'm overloading the pack in the winter; but usually then it doesn't get >65# max even with my older heavier tent). Once I get my gear dialed in the way I like it I'll take it on a trip, post some pics/inventory, and a better AAR or something. But for now I like the theory of a 20 to 50# pack compressed & balanced (it takes a bit of work to balance/secure a ~50# pack) to ride tight & close... ETA: I pack the way I feel works good for me, and it took me a PRETTY LONG TIME to figure it out (and I don't claim to 'have it all figured out' either as my gear is constantly changing/evolving as I can afford it; therefor packing order will always change). I'd spend 3-6 hours on a Saturday Morning relaxing, watching TV, and trying out various ways of packing my gear and getting it to fit & balance better. Distributing weight here, there, left, right, etc... Some of the more frequently used items in the outer pouches can sometimes get heavy and need to be shifted around for balance. Nalgene bottles, Food, Etc. |
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Compass, Knife, and primary fire starter in my pockets. Rain cover and hat on the outside of the pack. Ammo at the bottom, one days food and water at the top, additional food and water and the majority of gear in the middle. Wind/Rain coat on top of that to include layer 2 in winter. |