Posted: 12/5/2012 2:31:18 PM EDT
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I need to move some weight up front in my boat, so I'm thinking about moving the batteries from a compartment in the stern to another compartment in the bow. The distance will be about 15'. Should I use a 2, 4, or 6 gauge wire?
Will there be any issues with this idea? It seems pretty straight forward to me, its just always nice to know ahead of time. Thanks. |
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You could get by on 4 gauge depending on the current your starter pulls.
extra length = resistance= heat = low efficiency as far as current is concerned. I would go with 2 gauge, however some of the high end car audio power cables have low resistance and if you use that stuff 4 gauge wold work. Just my .02 |
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Need more info on your boat. Inboard, I/O or outboard? Size/type of engine? IMO, you can't go "too big" on battery cable.
ETA -- Oh, and don't even think about audio power wire as a substitute for real marine battery cable. Audio grade jacket won't hold up to a bilge environment and before you know it, the cable will be junk. |
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Quoted:
Need more info on your boat. Inboard, I/O or outboard? Size/type of engine? IMO, you can't go "too big" on battery cable. ETA -- Oh, and don't even think about audio power wire as a substitute for real marine battery cable. Audio grade jacket won't hold up to a bilge environment and before you know it, the cable will be junk. Outboard Mercury 60hp. I'm glad you clarified about the audio wire, that was a follow up question. |
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60 hp carbureted Merc will be fine with #4 cable. If it's an EFI engine, run 2/0 cables. Use the tinned copper lugs on the ends, crimped and soldered with marine grade shrink tubing on the ends and the cables will last for years. The marine grade shrink tube has glue inside that melts when heated to form a 100% waterproof seal.
We use Anchor brand cable and shrink tubing. Post up if you need any more assistance! 
KB ETA -- Use some split loom over the cables where ever they go through a hole (chafing) or between the motor well and the outboard cowling to prevent the sun from attacking the cable jacket. |
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I went to the electronic store on my lunch break, before you posted that last reply. The guy behind the counter has a similar boat to mine and did the same project for the same reasons and he recommended some heavy welding wire. It's held up for years on his boat, so... With some of the places I had to run it was better to have something more flexible anyways, and the wire is THICK.
Tonight I got my accessory battery moved, which is the heavier of the two as its a deep cycle. Moving the starting battery will be a good project for a snowy day this winter. Besides, I want to fish tomorrow and didn't want to be stuck half ways through and miss a day on the water. They crimped the terminal ends on for me at the place, and I will solder them another evening when I get a chance. I'm hoping that just moving even that much weight forward will give me an extra inch of rock clearance in the back. It may or may not, we'll find out tomorrow. 
ETA: I did test the cranking battery on the new wires, just to make sure it would work ok with the added length and it turned the motor over just fine. So I don't anticipate any problem with the wire not being big enough. |