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Posted: 4/23/2018 11:18:21 AM EDT
Recently started going on solo camping trips and my Glock trench knife isn't cutting it. Need/want a new knife.

Uses:
batoning
feathering/shaving wood
striking firesteel

$50-$150
4.5"-5.5"
drop point
scandinavian grind?
Link Posted: 4/23/2018 12:07:15 PM EDT
[#1]
That is a good price range.... I am personally always looking for that one needle in the haystack of good to great quality for a great price.

Im going to suggest the Buck Compadre http://a.co/dIA6yBl $70



ESEE-4 or CampLore PR4 would be another good choice.
Link Posted: 4/23/2018 2:39:57 PM EDT
[#2]
Jakaarupukko at Verestuleka

Outstanding value, the sheath is worth the asking price for the whole rig

ETA :I see they now sell the knives and sheaths separately (and for slightly less than they were together), if you order a knife definitely buy their sheath, it's a very nice piece of work.
Link Posted: 4/23/2018 8:00:28 PM EDT
[#3]
I really like that Terävä Jääkäripuukko, it's just a PITA to get (not really a PITA to get, just a little longer wait-time; but one is currently listed on Ebay)

A few I think are worthy of consideration:

Primal Gear HABS-K ($130)


ESEE 4; top-tier performer for the price and excellent sheath-systems ($115)


Fallkniven F1, probably one of my favorites for simple utility and excellent performance; one of the gold-standards for bushcraft-survival ($125)


TOPS BOB Bushcraft ($150)


Ontario Blackbird (needs a better sheath though: $115)


Condor Bushlore, good value for the money, but also needs a better sheath ($75)


The Mora Garberg is an excellent updated design that is a much more robust bushcraft knife ($90)


The Kellam Finnish Ranger Puukko M.95 is well worth the price ($150); the blade is a little longer than you're looking for (6"), but it's simply a great woods-tool. I've had mine for several years and it's a solid performer.  I'm working with Swedish NCO who was in the Swedish Rangers and is an instructor at their "Ranger School".  This is the knife he's uses and swears by it as well which is a solid endorsement for me:


TOPS Brakimo ($140):


Condor Crotalus, comes with a great sheath ($85):


Slightly more than your price range, but a superb field knife, is the Bark River Bravo-1 ($170-180)


For more traditional "bushcraft" knives, one of my favorites is the Roselli Hunter in UHC ($135)


Don't forget the many traditional Mora knives and the slightly more refined Helle knives.  My preferred Mora 510; if you want to start with a Scandi knife, this is the one I recommend and the price it's a simple add-on ($15):


ROCK6
Link Posted: 4/23/2018 9:01:14 PM EDT
[#4]
If you can get the mil/leo discount ESEE -3, -4, or -6 are in the price range and great choices.  Plus what he said ^^^^^^

Attachment Attached File
Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 4/23/2018 9:17:43 PM EDT
[#5]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Jakaarupukko at Verestuleka

Outstanding value, the sheath is worth the asking price for the whole rig

ETA :I see they now sell the knives and sheaths separately (and for slightly less than they were together), if you order a knife definitely buy their sheath, it's a very nice piece of work.
View Quote
I highly recommend the terava-jaakaripuuko linked above.  Sign up for an email alert for one with the sheath and when in stock order.  That’s what I did and only had to wait a few weeks for the email.  Awesome knife.

If you want something quicker try the Condor Final Frontier.  It comes with a nice leather sheath and is another solid choice.

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 4/23/2018 10:08:09 PM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I highly recommend the terava-jaakaripuuko linked above.  Sign up for an email alert for one with the sheath and when in stock order.  That’s what I did and only had to wait a few weeks for the email.  Awesome knife.

If you want something quicker try the Condor Final Frontier.  It comes with a nice leather sheath and is another solid choice.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/20524/A0E69C47-9220-4419-9081-58E5296FC347-523974.JPG
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Jakaarupukko at Verestuleka

Outstanding value, the sheath is worth the asking price for the whole rig

ETA :I see they now sell the knives and sheaths separately (and for slightly less than they were together), if you order a knife definitely buy their sheath, it's a very nice piece of work.
I highly recommend the terava-jaakaripuuko linked above.  Sign up for an email alert for one with the sheath and when in stock order.  That’s what I did and only had to wait a few weeks for the email.  Awesome knife.

If you want something quicker try the Condor Final Frontier.  It comes with a nice leather sheath and is another solid choice.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/20524/A0E69C47-9220-4419-9081-58E5296FC347-523974.JPG
Over 100 of each in stock at this moment, I don't understand the perceived hassle.

You order, pay with a credit card, wait a couple of weeks for it to arrive from Finland.

I first ordered a 140, and then a 110 as a gift for my Brother. I really liked the 110 better and am thinking to order one for myself.  For under $75 shipped with the sheath I don't see a better knife for it's intended purposes. Both of mine arrived in under 3  weeks from date of order
Link Posted: 4/24/2018 1:57:12 PM EDT
[#7]
For me Mora Companion.
Link Posted: 4/24/2018 3:03:43 PM EDT
[#8]
Until this year my go-to knives for camping and bushcrafting were my Ka-Bar BK-16 (with micarta scales, black crap stripped off blade and replaced with vinegar patina) and an Ontario Blackbird SK-5.  Then, as I was looking to send my grandson to Dave Canterbury's Pathfinder school, I noticed that he and his brother had started a custom knife shop.   I liked the looks...and the price...of some of his knives so I bought a PKS Mountain Lion, which is now my go-to blade.  The Grizzly is another good option if you want a larger blade.   Both meet the criteria you outlined.  You can't go wrong with other two I mentioned either.



https://www.selfrelianceoutfitters.com/collections/pks-the-best-survival-knife/products/mountain-lion-survival-knives-by-pks
Link Posted: 4/26/2018 12:32:21 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I really like that Terävä Jääkäripuukko, it's just a PITA to get (not really a PITA to get, just a little longer wait-time; but one is currently listed on Ebay)

A few I think are worthy of consideration:

Primal Gear HABS-K ($130)
https://images.knifecenter.com/thumb/1500x1500/knifecenter/primal/PMGPRI02t.jpg

ESEE 4; top-tier performer for the price and excellent sheath-systems ($115)
https://images.knifecenter.com/thumb/1500x1500/knifecenter/ratknives/images/RC4PDT.jpg

Fallkniven F1, probably one of my favorites for simple utility and excellent performance; one of the gold-standards for bushcraft-survival ($125)
https://images.knifecenter.com/thumb/1500x1500/knifecenter/fallkniven/images/FK-F1Z.jpg

TOPS BOB Bushcraft ($150)
https://images.knifecenter.com/thumb/1500x1500/knifecenter/tops/images/BROS-01.jpg

Ontario Blackbird (needs a better sheath though: $115)
https://images.knifecenter.com/thumb/1500x1500/knifecenter/ontario/images/7500b.jpg

Condor Bushlore, good value for the money, but also needs a better sheath ($75)
https://images.knifecenter.com/thumb/1500x1500/knifecenter/condor/images/CN23243HCManw.jpg

The Mora Garberg is an excellent updated design that is a much more robust bushcraft knife ($90)
https://images.knifecenter.com/thumb/1500x1500/knifecenter/frostswed/images/12642.jpg

The Kellam Finnish Ranger Puukko M.95 is well worth the price ($150); the blade is a little longer than you're looking for (6"), but it's simply a great woods-tool. I've had mine for several years and it's a solid performer.  I'm working with Swedish NCO who was in the Swedish Rangers and is an instructor at their "Ranger School".  This is the knife he's uses and swears by it as well which is a solid endorsement for me:
https://images.knifecenter.com/thumb/1500x1500/knifecenter/finn/images/FINN10470t.jpg

TOPS Brakimo ($140):
https://images.knifecenter.com/thumb/1500x1500/knifecenter/tops/images/TOBRAK01tt.jpg

Condor Crotalus, comes with a great sheath ($85):
https://images.knifecenter.com/thumb/1500x1500/knifecenter/condor/images/CN25755HCb.jpg

Slightly more than your price range, but a superb field knife, is the Bark River Bravo-1 ($170-180)
https://images.knifecenter.com/thumb/1500x1500/knifecenter/barkriver/images/BAR07112MBCn.jpg

For more traditional "bushcraft" knives, one of my favorites is the Roselli Hunter in UHC ($135)
https://www.ragweedforge.com/r200.jpg

Don't forget the many traditional Mora knives and the slightly more refined Helle knives.  My preferred Mora 510; if you want to start with a Scandi knife, this is the one I recommend and the price it's a simple add-on ($15):
https://images.knifecenter.com/thumb/1500x1500/knifecenter/frostswed/images/FTK11732t.jpg

ROCK6
View Quote
I have been behind on a few threads lately and clicked on this one, started compiling my thoughts, then read your post and thought to my self, not much more to say.  

Mora but not for super hard use like extended batoning.  If you want something to beat on I would lean more towards an ESEE...  Mora is my go to, if I need to hack I use an axe or hatchet.
Link Posted: 4/26/2018 6:37:10 PM EDT
[#10]
This one time, I bought a pair of ESEE-4s for my brother and me:



Link Posted: 4/28/2018 4:20:15 PM EDT
[#12]
I have the Terava Jaakaripuukko. It cuts like a fat knife with a thick grind and with a larger secondary bevel than is necessary. I actually zero grind convexed mine to get it to cut better.

Attachment Attached File


I would save up just a bit more and buy the Bark River Aurora in 3V. I did and it's an excellent knife in every respect. The grind is a nice thin convex that is strong enough to hold up to batonning with a zero grind convex, but it slices and carves beautifully.  The point allows for finer carving in notches and easier drilling. The 3V is extremely tough and holds a good edge.

Attachment Attached File


No matter what you get, buy something with the right geometry to cut stuff rather than hold up to chopping cars in half. Then go out and use it. Try sticks are fun because you get to know how your knife carves and push cuts. It will help you realize when your knife isn't quite the magical cutting tool you thought it was.

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 4/28/2018 4:50:48 PM EDT
[#13]
Mora
Link Posted: 4/29/2018 1:03:27 AM EDT
[#14]
I like the Blackbird SK-5, personally.  The sheath isn't anything to write home about, but works on a belt or MOLLE pretty well.
Link Posted: 5/3/2018 12:38:55 PM EDT
[#15]
If you want carbon steel - Mora Pro C ($12)


If you want stainless steel - Mora Pro S ($12)


If you really think you need a thicker knife- Mora Pro Robust ($15)


Honestly, the more you spend on a knife the less likely you are to treat it as a tool. All you need to sharpen the above is a small Arkansas stone.
Link Posted: 5/6/2018 9:00:19 AM EDT
[#16]
Does Mora make any full tang models?
Link Posted: 5/6/2018 9:52:02 AM EDT
[#17]
One more vote for any of the various ESEE 4/5/6 models
Link Posted: 5/6/2018 10:03:37 PM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Does Mora make any full tang models?
View Quote
What's your definition of full tang?  The Classic #1 has a "full tang", often referred to as a stick tang:



As far as "full tang" most think of, the only one I know of is the new Garberg model:



Some models are a "partial" tang (Mora 2000, Kansbol, etc.), that have proven more than capable as a serious outdoors "survival" knife.  I was gifted an issued Mora 2000 model used by the Swedish forces here in Afghanistan.  One of my team members is an instructor for their Ranger School in Sweden and said that this is the knife he uses for the survival classes and it's held up with zero issues...that's a pretty solid endorsement from my perspective.

ROCK6
Link Posted: 5/6/2018 10:45:15 PM EDT
[#19]
I’m in the woods a ton, and always have cutting tools with me. Like most outdoorsman I have a box full of knives, I grab what seems appropriate for the day and head out.

This “bushcrafter” thing has kinda passed me by....no disrespect to anyone here, but the folks I have met that call themselves “Bush crafters” are a bunch of inexperienced woodsman trying to learn....which is cool, I’m not dogging them.

Anyway, what Qualifies a knife as “bushcrafter”? They all have the same chunky shaped blade, I assume for batoning. Does anyone carry hatchets anymore?
Link Posted: 5/6/2018 10:59:27 PM EDT
[#20]
It helps to go to a store that has these and feel them all as well as see the relative size.

I settled on the ESEE 4 -  have 2 of them now as well as a ESEE Laserstrike.    I have used the ESEE 4 really hard in making fires and batoning wood.   You can't go wrong with any of the ESEEs.

The Mora Garburg is very nice also, a bit different than the ESEE though.  Seems well made and sturdy, but I haven't used heavily like the ESEE.  I like the sharper back spine for fire starting.
Link Posted: 5/7/2018 8:46:24 AM EDT
[#21]
I'll second finding one that you like the feel of.  I've got an ESEE 4 and even after changing the scales on it I just don't like the way it feels in my hand.  It's a great knife, just not for me.  I use a combination of knives but since the late 80s I've used a Cold Steel SRK carbon V for heavier chores.  Nothing sexy about it and lots of folks will disparage it but it works for me and I've used it working in swamps, and forest, hacking through stuff, etc.  The sheath that it comes with it pretty much sucks but there are a ton of other sheaths on the market for it.  I've also got a handful of Moras, a couple of Benchmades and the knife I usually carry hiking with me is a DH Russell Canadian Belt knife; it's not a large knife but it can do a surprising amount of work with it's leaf shaped blade.
Link Posted: 5/7/2018 1:28:10 PM EDT
[#22]
https://www.selfrelianceoutfitters.com/

You can look here. I have two from this store.
One is Bush kinfe by Jeff White
Just got the "SCORPION" HD by PKS.
No dirt time yet. Came damn sharp out of the box!


PITA45
Link Posted: 5/8/2018 1:29:59 AM EDT
[#23]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
What's your definition of full tang?  The Classic #1 has a "full tang", often referred to as a stick tang:

https://www.bladehq.com/imgs/knives/fixed-blade-knives/morakniv-blades--ft11842-logo-large.jpg

As far as "full tang" most think of, the only one I know of is the new Garberg model:

https://www.bladehq.com/imgs/knives/fixed-blade-knives/morakniv-fixed/Morakniv-Garberg-Multi-Mount-Sheath-M-12642-BHQ-49577-jr-large.jpg

Some models are a "partial" tang (Mora 2000, Kansbol, etc.), that have proven more than capable as a serious outdoors "survival" knife.  I was gifted an issued Mora 2000 model used by the Swedish forces here in Afghanistan.  One of my team members is an instructor for their Ranger School in Sweden and said that this is the knife he uses for the survival classes and it's held up with zero issues...that's a pretty solid endorsement from my perspective.

ROCK6
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Does Mora make any full tang models?
What's your definition of full tang?  The Classic #1 has a "full tang", often referred to as a stick tang:

https://www.bladehq.com/imgs/knives/fixed-blade-knives/morakniv-blades--ft11842-logo-large.jpg

As far as "full tang" most think of, the only one I know of is the new Garberg model:

https://www.bladehq.com/imgs/knives/fixed-blade-knives/morakniv-fixed/Morakniv-Garberg-Multi-Mount-Sheath-M-12642-BHQ-49577-jr-large.jpg

Some models are a "partial" tang (Mora 2000, Kansbol, etc.), that have proven more than capable as a serious outdoors "survival" knife.  I was gifted an issued Mora 2000 model used by the Swedish forces here in Afghanistan.  One of my team members is an instructor for their Ranger School in Sweden and said that this is the knife he uses for the survival classes and it's held up with zero issues...that's a pretty solid endorsement from my perspective.

ROCK6
I have a Mora Kansbol that I picked not to long ago that really feels good in the hand.  Unfortunately I have been really busy with work, and other projects I haven't been able to get out and put it to work.  Hopefully that will change once I get my spring chores, tasks, and projects under control.
Link Posted: 5/9/2018 4:52:43 PM EDT
[#24]
I have a bk16 and it’s a great knife.  A 2 or 7 or 10 would be great as well.
Link Posted: 5/10/2018 9:46:47 AM EDT
[#25]
I was torn between an ESEE 4 and the TOPS BoB. The TOPS felt so much better in my hand that I didn't mind not having the ESEE warranty. Besides it has a very stout blade that if it were to break would entirely have to be my fault.
Link Posted: 5/10/2018 10:17:35 AM EDT
[#26]
Deleted my ignorant comment.  I did not know what a Try Stick was or its purpose until I went looking.  I thought it was just a cool-looking decorated stick.  Now I know and will practice this weekend.
Link Posted: 5/10/2018 12:05:38 PM EDT
[#27]
Another vote for the Blackbird. I guess I’m the oddball, I actually like the sheath
Link Posted: 5/10/2018 12:27:19 PM EDT
[#28]
Here in the PNW one of the best (and sometimes only) ways of getting a real fire going is to find an old stump and blow it apart for the pitch wood.  A dainty knife has its place, but something of the size/thickness of the ESEE-4 or -6 makes that job a lot easier.  I went out in the drizzling rain to do some fire craft work, and even the tinder I carry on hikes was wholly insufficient to get damp wood to burn.  I like to practice using the stuff I actually carry when I'm hiking or backpacking, not with the silly suggestions of road flares, gasoline, steel wool/D battery, etc.  Those can work when you have no other choice, but I don't hike with any of that in my pack.  My lint/Vaseline will burn great, for as long as it lasts, but that's never long enough to dry out wood.  Bust open a stump full of pitch wood and you will have an inferno that will easily dry and ignite some bigger deadwood.

All that to say- choose the knife for what you intend to do with it.
Link Posted: 5/10/2018 12:47:23 PM EDT
[#29]
My biggest critique of "Bushcraft" knives is they're usually designed like a butter knife with nothing to stop your hand/fingers from moving forward on to the blade.
Link Posted: 5/10/2018 4:45:09 PM EDT
[#30]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
My biggest critique of "Bushcraft" knives is they're usually designed like a butter knife with nothing to stop your hand/fingers from moving forward on to the blade.
View Quote
I despise anything that keeps my fingers away from getting close to the edge. In nordic cultures finger guards are for children. The handle shape serves that function on a puukko.
Link Posted: 5/10/2018 4:50:37 PM EDT
[#31]
Cold steel SRK or Fallkniven S/A1
Link Posted: 6/14/2018 8:02:33 PM EDT
[#32]
LT Wright GNS, available in saber grind or scandanavian.  Very few things are perfect.  This knife is perfect.  I liked the saber so much, I bought the scandi too.
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Link Posted: 6/14/2018 10:08:56 PM EDT
[#33]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
LT Wright GNS, available in saber grind or scandanavian.  Very few things are perfect.  This knife is perfect.  I liked the saber so much, I bought the scandi too.
View Quote
A little over his budget, but a worthy investment and seriously nice piece.  My son and I hit the Blade Show on the last day while I was home on leave.  We stopped by LT Wright's table and man, there were a ton of high quality knives.  I have several customs and they are more expensive. While they may not necessarily out-perform many of the manufactured knives, they offer a lot of character and excellent aesthetic features...that may not be important to many, but the more you handle a knife, the more you can appreciate some of the custom knives and features they offer.  Beautiful piece BTW!

ROCK6
Link Posted: 6/14/2018 11:47:10 PM EDT
[#34]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
if I need to hack I use an axe or hatchet.
View Quote
As did most of our ancestors from Europe moving to the North American continent. Knives are important but the hatchet does the heavier work better. It is the natural response to dealing with vegetation that has to survive cold weather - it becomes woody and tough, unlike tropical vegetation which remains pulpy. Move further north and you get to a point where you must have an axe to deal with heavy timber, as that will be the minimum shelter required for overwintering.

Choose your tools for the environment and latitude. None of them are "wrong," just the choice you make if they are out of place and you don't know how to maximize their utility.

As our technology improved so did our tools, we went from hatchets and axes to saws to chain saws. How far you carry one into the wilderness is what you choose. If it's just you and days of travel, a good knife for food prep, and a hatchet to prepare a campsite and shelter might be all you need. Lets not forget for all the Kabars being sheathed on pistol belts in WWII there was an entrenching tool strapped to the backpack, and in one configuration, it's a light hatchet. We still issue that tool. The knife, no longer.

Survivalist bushcrafting is a fine skill, but not even our ancestors lived it.
Link Posted: 6/17/2018 12:20:48 PM EDT
[#35]
My first "try":



Link Posted: 6/17/2018 1:02:31 PM EDT
[#36]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Very nice! I like to do try sticks in dry maple to test my edge retention. If there is any damage I'll change the geometry until it will do everything with zero edge change. The damage could be microscopic but I can still detect it and fix it.

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 6/18/2018 9:15:41 PM EDT
[#37]
What about a K-Bar BK-2?    Anybody.?

Happy Trails!
Link Posted: 6/19/2018 9:08:17 AM EDT
[#38]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
What about a K-Bar BK-2?    Anybody.?

Happy Trails!
View Quote
In my opinion, at 0.25" it's too thick. I have handled one and while I like the handle, overall the knife is too heavy and clunky. The other thing I don't like about it is the textured blade coating. I dislike powder coating on blades because in my experience they increase drag when cutting. Wood gets stuck to it when chopping, making it worse. Knives should have a smooth finish.

FWIW, Lars on Survival Russia, who lives in Siberia and spends a lot of his time in the forest, has one and didn't like it for those reasons. You'll notice in most of his recent videos he is carrying a Mora Kansbol, along with a Silky folding saw and/or an axe.
Link Posted: 6/19/2018 10:27:55 AM EDT
[#39]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
In my opinion, at 0.25" it's too thick. I have handled one and while I like the handle, overall the knife is too heavy and clunky. The other thing I don't like about it is the textured blade coating. I dislike powder coating on blades because in my experience they increase drag when cutting. Wood gets stuck to it when chopping, making it worse. Knives should have a smooth finish.

FWIW, Lars on Survival Russia, who lives in Siberia and spends a lot of his time in the forest, has one and didn't like it for those reasons. You'll notice in most of his recent videos he is carrying a Mora Kansbol, along with a Silky folding saw and/or an axe.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
What about a K-Bar BK-2?    Anybody.?

Happy Trails!
In my opinion, at 0.25" it's too thick. I have handled one and while I like the handle, overall the knife is too heavy and clunky. The other thing I don't like about it is the textured blade coating. I dislike powder coating on blades because in my experience they increase drag when cutting. Wood gets stuck to it when chopping, making it worse. Knives should have a smooth finish.

FWIW, Lars on Survival Russia, who lives in Siberia and spends a lot of his time in the forest, has one and didn't like it for those reasons. You'll notice in most of his recent videos he is carrying a Mora Kansbol, along with a Silky folding saw and/or an axe.
I have been using an Ontario Air Force Survival Knife lately just because I really like the way it looks and feels, but when performing delicate "bushcraft" tasks it in no way shape or form holds a candle to a Mora.

With all that said, I use whichever knife I feel like, maybe not because its the best blade for the job, but because I like it, and I want to.  I also think that using different tools for various tasks increases your skill set.
Link Posted: 6/19/2018 11:02:52 AM EDT
[#40]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
What about a K-Bar BK-2?    Anybody.?

Happy Trails!
View Quote
If you like it then you will make it work. It's a thick knife that cuts like a thick knife. If you are okay with that kind of performance then go for it.

I hate wasting effort trying to push a fat knife with a fat grind and fat secondary bevel through whatever I'm cutting. I like my knives to cut with less wasted energy.
Link Posted: 6/19/2018 11:16:59 AM EDT
[#41]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Jakaarupukko at Verestuleka

Outstanding value, the sheath is worth the asking price for the whole rig

ETA :I see they now sell the knives and sheaths separately (and for slightly less than they were together), if you order a knife definitely buy their sheath, it's a very nice piece of work.
View Quote
Winner.
I have the 110 paired with a Bahco folding saw.
Also their Skrama with their mini-puko for fine work.
Link Posted: 6/19/2018 11:44:19 AM EDT
[#42]
ESEE 3 and ESEE 6 are a great combo!
Link Posted: 6/19/2018 12:24:36 PM EDT
[#43]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Winner.
I have the 110 paired with a Bahco folding saw.
Also their Skrama with their mini-puko for fine work.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Jakaarupukko at Verestuleka

Outstanding value, the sheath is worth the asking price for the whole rig

ETA :I see they now sell the knives and sheaths separately (and for slightly less than they were together), if you order a knife definitely buy their sheath, it's a very nice piece of work.
Winner.
I have the 110 paired with a Bahco folding saw.
Also their Skrama with their mini-puko for fine work.
My 110 came with a fat primary scandi grind and fat secondary. I tried to like it but it cut like a fat ass knife. I finally convexed the whole thing on my belt grinder and I've been much happier. No secondary and the primary is a smooth curve all the way to the edge. It's how the knife should have been made as thick as it is.

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 6/20/2018 2:10:50 AM EDT
[#44]
Whatever would we do without our internet experts...  
Link Posted: 6/20/2018 6:42:00 AM EDT
[#45]
Man no love for the KA BAR.. I've had a 7" KA Bar since 2009 and it is beat to piss. Still sharp as a tack, and functional with full grip. Never have a sharpened it, not once.
Link Posted: 7/14/2018 12:28:06 AM EDT
[#46]
Mora Robust

Becker BK2

Council Tools Boys Axe

This is my Bushcraft edged loadout. I want to add a hand saw but just can't decide between Bacho, Husky, or Silky.

*ETA*
Forgot about my beautiful Hults Brux hatchet.
Link Posted: 7/14/2018 1:27:43 AM EDT
[#47]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Mora Robust

Becker BK2

Council Tools Boys Axe

This is my Bushcraft edged loadout. I want to add a hand saw but just can decide between Bacho, Husky, or Silky.

*ETA*
Forgot about my beautiful Hults Brux hatchet.
View Quote
All around general use folding saw... Bacho...
Link Posted: 7/14/2018 2:21:33 AM EDT
[#48]
You could look at the Becker BK16 or Crewman. I have both and they're pretty nice for the price.
Link Posted: 7/14/2018 2:23:36 AM EDT
[#49]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
What about a K-Bar BK-2?    Anybody.?

Happy Trails!
View Quote
I have one and I don't really like it TBH. I've had it for probably 8 years and rarely use it. It's too thick.
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