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Posted: 3/8/2010 8:50:37 AM EDT
I took my Spike's upper to the appleseed project this weekend. it comes with a YHM rail on it. this was the first time I have ever used it with a sling and it was mounted to the bottom of the rail.

well I was laying prone and really trying to get that sling nice and tight. when I tightened it up the entire rail rotated! the rail is screwed onto the barrel nut and has anti-rotating pins on it. so that mean the entire barrel nut started to back off. when I got home I took out the anti rotating pins and removed the HG. the barrel nut is snug but not 50-80lbs like I have found it's supposed to be. but the thing is there is no way I would be able to turn the nut so that it lines up with the next gas tube notch.

so what do I do? I am afraid of turning the barrel nut and trying to force it to the next gas tube notch. I am sure I can get that wrench torqued down to 80lbs but doubt it will make it to the next hole with out shattering that barrel nut.

Should I use loc-tite on it? will that help or bad idea?

opinions?
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 8:52:45 AM EDT
Tighten and loosen it 3 to 5 times till you can get 30 to 80 pounds and a notch to line up.
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 9:00:50 AM EDT
I just installed a YHM handguard this weekend and the instructions didn't have any torque specs. They just said to hand tighten and then use the YHM barrel wrench to turn the nut to the next gas hole. On mine the next hole was right there so of course it wasn't tight enough so I used to wrench to turn it as far as I could then tightened and loosened until I could get it lined up. The wrench I have doesn't have any way to attach a torque wrench and the handle is short so you can't get much leverage.
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 9:01:04 AM EDT
It took me the fifth time with a new Armalite upper and hand guard recently.
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 9:01:56 AM EDT
torque is applied by the stretching of the thread, won't this mess it up? also what are the chance that this nut will shatter? I can tell by the feel of it that is has been hardened alot.
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 9:08:52 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/8/2010 9:10:25 AM EDT by saj195]
remember, 30 ft lbs is the minumum torque spec and assembly should not exceed 80 ft lbs to align the notch or you'll start shearing off teeth on the barrel nut.

and as Outsyd said, torque and loosen 3+ times to get the threads to mate
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 10:23:32 AM EDT


well now I need a new barrel nut.....it didn't break or shadder any of the teeth, what it did do was stretch 3 of the holes and mess up the threads.
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 10:25:20 AM EDT
Originally Posted By dwinecof:
I just installed a YHM handguard this weekend and the instructions didn't have any torque specs. They just said to hand tighten and then use the YHM barrel wrench to turn the nut to the next gas hole. On mine the next hole was right there so of course it wasn't tight enough so I used to wrench to turn it as far as I could then tightened and loosened until I could get it lined up. The wrench I have doesn't have any way to attach a torque wrench and the handle is short so you can't get much leverage.


What part of Ga are you in?
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 10:27:57 AM EDT
Knights rail For the win

80 is max torque per specs . the nut should line up before you get to 80
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 10:37:26 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Outsydlooknin75:
Tighten and loosen it 3 to 5 times till you can get 30 to 80 pounds and a notch to line up.


The YHM rail has it's own proprietary barrel nut which is aluminum. Sometimes torquing too much will break the nut.
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 10:39:48 AM EDT
Originally Posted By gajeep94yj:


well now I need a new barrel nut.....it didn't break or shadder any of the teeth, what it did do was stretch 3 of the holes and mess up the threads.




I rest my case. I starting typing my other response while still reading this thread so didn't see THIS latest news from you until I hit submit.

Frankly, that is why friends don't let friends buy garbage YHM crap rails. You couldn't give me one of those hunks of junk. Sorry to add salt to the wound.
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 10:42:43 AM EDT
thanks for the salt........it feels good....


please remember it's a .22!

Link Posted: 3/8/2010 11:30:07 AM EDT
Originally Posted By gajeep94yj:
thanks for the salt........it feels good....


please remember it's a .22!



Yeah, but it is still a gun that you don't want the rail coming off. Right?


Call YHM and tell them their piece of garbage nut broke and you need a replacement. I'll help you install if you need.

Link Posted: 3/8/2010 12:17:17 PM EDT
I have one on my 22 and it was all I could afford. But now I know that what has worked great for me and my son without issues is considered a piece of shit by stantards. Maybe I should have spent more on the rail and less to feed him. Then again what do I know?
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 12:33:21 PM EDT
Originally Posted By JCAST:
I have one on my 22 and it was all I could afford. But now I know that what has worked great for me and my son without issues is considered a piece of shit by stantards. Maybe I should have spent more on the rail and less to feed him. Then again what do I know?


If it works great and you like it then it doesn't matter what anyone else thinks of it. The YHM rails are decent but you do get what you pay for. They are a low cost, low end solution.

Buy once cry once BUT don't overbuy. If the lesser product does the job go for it. Just don't complain when it doesn't perform like the better (but more expensive) products.
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 12:51:40 PM EDT
I will call them but I doubt this is something they will make right. but hey it's worth a shot! I will call tomorrow when they open and see what they have to say.

but Chris at Semper fi arms has saved the day. he has one in stock and will help install it for me tonight.
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 1:35:24 PM EDT
For low-end rails I've found the MI to be well made but a little heavy, and they stand behind their stuff, too.

I recently picked up a Troy FF rail and have been impressed (so far). Can't bring myself to drop the coin on DD or LaRue yet.
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 2:01:34 PM EDT
Originally Posted By gajeep94yj:
Originally Posted By dwinecof:
I just installed a YHM handguard this weekend and the instructions didn't have any torque specs. They just said to hand tighten and then use the YHM barrel wrench to turn the nut to the next gas hole. On mine the next hole was right there so of course it wasn't tight enough so I used to wrench to turn it as far as I could then tightened and loosened until I could get it lined up. The wrench I have doesn't have any way to attach a torque wrench and the handle is short so you can't get much leverage.


What part of Ga are you in?


This has probably been overcome by events, but In case you're still wondering I'm south of Warner Robins.
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 2:44:54 PM EDT
long ways away.
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 3:07:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/8/2010 3:08:30 PM EDT by bgcoop8784]
The only problem i've found with the yhm is the fact that the rails are a little close to the tube itself, not enough height on the rails, so a lot of accessories need to be filed a little on the top to fit, the Daniel Defense vfg for instance, fits every rail i have around but not on the yhm free float i have. The yhm works fine for me, but when i put together another rifle they won't be my first choice.
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 3:08:41 PM EDT
I know it is too late this time, but I installed the YHM diamond on my Spike's upper and the instructions said that if you could not get a hole to line up while staying in the torque specs, then machine the gas tube hole wider.

Sounds stupid, but the important take away is to not exceed the torque spec.
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 3:18:02 PM EDT
Machine the hole wider! WTF! Serious? That will make it so the rails will not line up. I would hate to try and get some sights to line up when the rail is a few holes off!

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 4:56:54 PM EDT

IMHO the correct solution is a properly sized shim to get it to index at proper torque and on a hole.

Course that's easy for me to say.

Bad day at the appleseed, eh?
Link Posted: 3/8/2010 5:04:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/8/2010 5:06:18 PM EDT by gajeep94yj]
I've had a very bad gun weekend actually. thank you for noticing....

did I mention that two 8 year old kids got rifle man when I couldn't....

But Chris did get me taken care of so the 22 is back in action...in the safe :) thanks again Chris.
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 2:23:25 AM EDT
Originally Posted By stimpsonjcat:

IMHO the correct solution is a properly sized shim to get it to index at proper torque and on a hole.

Course that's easy for me to say.

Bad day at the appleseed, eh?


Just sand that sucker a little bit.

I'm glad the barrel nuts can't be seen on my rifles. I just wish I hadn't let the barrel slip in the (bare aluminum) vice blocks that time on two rifles...or had enough sense to clamp it on the barrel part that them good ol' handguards would have covered.

Those receiver clamshell clamp thingies are the shizzle. It's the first thing to buy...at least buy one before getting a bench and a vice, or a pair of vice grips.

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