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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 4/3/2006 12:37:41 PM EST
I've looked in the tacked info's and I didnt find the thread with gun smiths. They might be archived anyhow. I need help finding a smith for a buddy of mine thats just across the river.

Can anyone recommend some reputable smiths in the Portland area that doesnt have a 1+ month wait list?

Thanks for any help.
Link Posted: 4/3/2006 2:52:23 PM EST
What do you need done?

Link Posted: 4/3/2006 3:07:44 PM EST
I had the smith who works out of Keith's attach a flash-hider. Don't know what else he does.
Link Posted: 4/3/2006 5:54:31 PM EST
[Last Edit: 4/3/2006 7:22:15 PM EST by double_trouble_2003]
Here's my list
Remington enhancements (1100, 700, 700 LRT) Allison & Carey (503) 256-5166
Tactical stuff (AR15, HK, AK) Phoenix (503) 655-4086
General stuff (S&W, High Standard) Oregon Timerwolf (503) 632-8201

Link Posted: 4/3/2006 5:59:11 PM EST

Originally Posted By ac4wordplay:
What do you need done?


Trigger work on a Ruger #1 rifle I believe is what my friends rig is.
Link Posted: 4/3/2006 7:49:51 PM EST
From www.rvbprecision.com/articles/articles.php?a=9 :

"Third we come to triggers. If you can't replace the headlights in your car, forget about any trigger work! Taking the Ruger #1 apart and messing with the trigger is not for the faint of heart! But if your comfortable with this stuff, you should replace the trigger. The older #1s had a great fully adjustable trigger made out of "manly" steel. The newer guns have triggers made from sintered steel. They just can't be honed to maintain a crisp let off. The older triggers had three adjusting screws for pull, creep, and backlash. Those screws that Ruger puts in the bottom of the newer trigger are there just to tease you. As far as I can tell, they do nothing! I'm not sure how to tell whether you have a new or old trigger, but if your trigger has three adjusting screws, it is an old one. If it is a two screw model, I would guess it is a newer version. All my guns came from the factory with 5-8 pound triggers! With honing and smoothing, I could get them down to a safe 2-3 pounds. But in my book, that is way too much for a bench gun. And all my current #1Vs are bench varmint guns. And after a couple dozen pulls, the triggers would start to creep like crazy. Replacement is the only answer. You have two choices, Moyers Gun Repair (208-587-6408) offers a copy of the origional "manly" steel trigger with three screws. It is an exact copy of the old #1 trigger. It's only $43 but it is a bit of work to install. It should be a drop in, but every gun I've used it on required a bit of filing. No big deal if you're comfortable with gunsmithing. The second choice is an offering from Brownells (515-623-5401). It is made by Kepplinger and it is a single set design. It sells for $180! I can't say that I have any experience with this trigger. But for $180 it better be great!"

For a gunsmith (for this project), I'd call Allison & Carey (as mentioned by double_trouble_2003 above).

Good luck,

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