We've taken it to the range multiple times trying to break it in.  115gr and 124 gr rounds

the first magazine shoots fine, then it starts jamming where the round is not completely into the chamber.  also, after the magazine is emptied it doesnt stay open

all of this i believe is caused b/c it doesnt recoil far enough to allow the round to pop up in place, and also doesnt slide back far enough to lock open after the last round


all of it seems to be smooth.  ppl told me to 'keep shooting it' awhile ago and it would work itself out, but i dont believe them.  its annoying as hell to shoot every other round.

help please!!!

Is the pistol being lubed properly??  The symptoms you list sound like either weak ammo, limp wristing, or possibly a dry pistol.  All those things will cause the slide to cycle slower than needed to function reliably.  

What sheldon said.

Weak mags possibly, or having the mag springs installed backwards....

Try different mags, try different ammo, lube well, use a firm grip....then get back to us.

Pull the side and lube the rails (both outside slide and inside barrel rails), then lube the barrel lock at both the front pivot point, and the other side where the lock slides.  Also, make sure that when you push in on the lock rod, it moves freely and cam's the lock open.

Ran into same kind of prolem on a guys cougar a while back at the range.  Guy was running the pistol bone dry out of the box, and fixed the problem with a few drops of CLP.

Factory mags?  Full cap or 10 round?

What specific brand of ammo?

Are you riding your thumb on the slide stop while shooting?

I vote not enough lube and limp wristing.  Causes ALL KINDS of problems....

Quoted: I vote not enough lube and limp wristing.  Causes ALL KINDS of problems....

Sig line material, right there.

well last night my dad and i took it apart again and used some cleaning solvent on the rails and then lubed them back up.  we have 3 different types of ammo,

1.  CCI Blazer 9mm Luger 115 gr. fmj
2. Winchester 9mm Luger 124 gr. fmj ((USA9MM)
3. Remington UMC (dont know what that means) 9mm Luger 115 gr. mc (L9MM3)

the mags we are using are 2 10rnd magazines that came with the beretta and a 17rnd mec gar magazine i bought.  all 3 have the same problem.      we've never had the mags apart so i dont thinkt he spring can be in backwards (do we need to lube those at all?)


and to Dano523, what do you mean by "lube the barrel lock at both the front pivot point, and the other side where the lock slides"           is the barrel lock what you flip to remove the barrel/slide assembly?         after looking at it i know that when thats flipped to the operating position that flat part is what the spring rests against (except for that tiny lip which holds it in place while the slide is removed)


everything seems to feel smooth.  when we pull the slide back it does hit the hammer when its cocked whichi think is supposed to happen.  it obviously takes a little bit of energy to push it down, but doesnt seem to be much.  there's a notch cut where it slides anyways, so i'm sure that happens on every gun.


what exactly is the slide stop?  i'm just not familiar with the terminology, i'm trying to figure out what part you're talking about.


thanks for all the replies: i'm actually going to the range again this morning to try it again sine we lubed it.


edit:  i'd also like to say its weird that the first mag. is usually ok (walthough it still doesnt stay open after the last shot)  - seems like maybe something changes after it gets hot?

UPDATE:

got back from the range -- put probably 150 rounds through it, maybe a little more.       they all worked like a charm!

hopefully it stays like this.  thanks everyone for the input.

I'll catch heat for this, but there's no such thing as too much oil on a gun, IMO.

Quoted: I'll catch heat for this, but there's no such thing as too much oil on a gun, IMO.

Depends on the gun.

Speaking in generalities about most combat pistols, you're right tho.

However, there are designs which will react very negatively towards over-lubrication, especially when it's in the wrong place.

Quoted: Depends on the gun. Speaking in generalities about most combat pistols, you're right tho. However, there are designs which will react very negatively towards over-lubrication, especially when it's in the wrong place.

Certainly around a gas port, yes. But on the slide & rails, etc., I oil the hell out of mine. The excess will shake off.  

Quoted: Quoted: Depends on the gun. Speaking in generalities about most combat pistols, you're right tho. However, there are designs which will react very negatively towards over-lubrication, especially when it's in the wrong place. Certainly around a gas port, yes. But on the slide & rails, etc., I oil the hell out of mine. The excess will shake off.

I'm with ya. I do have a couple guns that won't tolerate excess oil in ANY place. My S&W 41 is one such gun. Oil it too much, and it won't run.

I've put 3000 thru my 92Vertec without a hickup.

I'm having jaming problem with my 92FS also, the first 800 rounds were met with Failure to Chamber, FT load, FT lock after last round. It jus not fun shooting a gun and having 30-40% problem rounds.

I also have a G34, shoots everything I feed to it, 0% any failure, loves it!

I finally went back to trouble shoot the 92 (after 3 months of contemplating selling it) , polished the ramp on the barrel and on the frame , lubed it, watched my shooting techniques..ets... This time the same type failures, but down to about 3%..  much better, but no perfect.

my question is: the G34 eats everything I gave it, very little CLP,..., but my 92 only shoot the Remington UMC with 0% failure.. Is that expected of a Beretta gun? I read somewhere every gun likes different ammo, but having one gun that shoots ANY ammo makes me want to have ALL my guns eat the same diet (so I don't need to stock 2,3 different brand of ammo)

am I asking too much?  ( I know I typed too much!!)

Quoted: but my 92 only shoot the Remington UMC with 0% failure.. Is that expected of a Beretta gun?

No, my 92FS shoots anything I put in it. Have you tried different mags? Different mag springs?

Do different shooters using your gun have the same problems with their 9mm ammo??????

Quoted: I'll catch heat for this, but there's no such thing as too much oil on a gun, IMO.

Try that in the desert!

I hope I"m not hijacing soccermike7's thread, but it reads like he got his 92 to behave now. Maybe the board can help me out!

all my mags are from Beretta, 10 and 15 round, the failure rate is about the same in any of these mags, so I'm thinking not the mag.

CLP: I oil what the manual tell you to (so many places compared to the "five drop" lube of a Glock)
I"m using Hoppe No9. Some day it drips with oil after the first round! but never "under oil"

I am going with the presumption of the barrel ramp being at too sharp of an angle ( a "hint" from the gunshop guy). I polished it with a Dremel (by the way, can one "polish" the metal off with just a bullet shape cotton tip? I could swear that it did to the frame and maybe the barrel!!??

p.s. I"m not a Glock guy knocking other brands, I'm just reporting what I experienced.

Just lube the pistol with CLP. Screw the 5 drops, get a light coat down the frame/slide rails, on the guide rod and spring,  the front of the frame where the barrel moves foward and do a number on the barrel*. As said, the extra little bit of over oil can be shock out, or wide off.

*Drive the roll pin out of the barrel, then pull the lock and the plunger. Clean and lube the parts three parts, then put them back together.  With the lock camed all the way up (barrel upside down), push on the plunger and make sure that it will easly cam the lock back down/up.  If it does, then reistall the roll pin. If not, check the lock plunger slot for a bur, and check the plunger slot cut for a bur.

On the mags, pull them apart and clean/very lightly lube the spring/inner springs with CLP. Also check the front of the feed lips for any forming burs, and if needed remove them with a stone. Also, take a look at the very bottom of the follower skirts. If you find production mold high spot seams, take them off with a stone or file.

Last thing, the 13 lb recoil spring is a weak unit and is only correct for light loads (read over recoil/slide to frame impact and case cause weaker shooter to limp wrist the pistol).  If you find that the spent cases are being ejected over 10 yards, then you need to change the recoil spring out to heavier unit.

thanks for the detail recommendation, a lot of info to digest for me!

seems like the problem I experienced has nothing to do with the "feed ramp angle", since no one commment on it.

I'll lube this gun up good and give it another try!

p.s., which recoil spring do you suggest? does that also mean replacing the rod? is a solid rod a better choice?

thanks again

Quoted: We've taken it to the range multiple times trying to break it in.  115gr and 124 gr rounds the first magazine shoots fine, then it starts jamming where the round is not completely into the chamber.  also, after the magazine is emptied it doesnt stay open all of this i believe is caused b/c it doesnt recoil far enough to allow the round to pop up in place, and also doesnt slide back far enough to lock open after the last round all of it seems to be smooth.  ppl told me to 'keep shooting it' awhile ago and it would work itself out, but i dont believe them.  its annoying as hell to shoot every other round. help please!!!

Never had this problem with mine.  Always flawless.

Quoted: thanks for the detail recommendation, a lot of info to digest for me! seems like the problem I experienced has nothing to do with the "feed ramp angle", since no one commment on it. I'll lube this gun up good and give it another try! p.s., which recoil spring do you suggest? does that also mean replacing the rod? is a solid rod a better choice? thanks again

Really need to know the current distance of your spent brass before suggesting a new spring rate.

As for the guide, the plastic ones work, but would rather have a steel rod if it were my pistol.

>Really need to know the current distance of your spent brass before suggesting a new spring rate.


I shoot indoor and the brass just bounce off the side divider,  I'll see what I can do to get around that (safely, ofcourse). Outdoor range 45min drive, so little too far for this city boy!

I enjoy "trouble shooting", but have no gunsmithing experience.. THIS is good stuff!

again, my goal is to have this gun shoots most ammos I put through, not  for me to find which ONE ammo can be shot out without problems.

recap:
1-Failure to chamber first round, have to push the slide forward to chamber, or deliberately rack the slide back forcefully  3%
2-Failure to Feed, the "nose" seemed to be jammed up on the barrel, again, push the slide forward with my thumb will complete the cycle 4%
3-Failure for the slide to lock open after last round 2%

down from 40% before I polished the feed ramp on the barrel. Using WWB or UMC (little less).  Now the above 3 problem is happening with WWB, UMC is 0%. I can only afford to shoot cheap ammos!! (so I don't want to consider uping my ammo allowance)

p.s., someone mentioned weak ammo causing the slide to cycle slower, but not for symptom #1, and I tends to feel UMC is weaker than WWB...

Quoted: Also, take a look at the very bottom of the follower skirts. If you find production mold high spot seams, take them off with a stone or file. Last thing, the 13 lb recoil spring is a weak unit ......  If you find that the spent cases are being ejected over 10 yards, then you need to change the recoil spring out to heavier unit.

Trying to digest what you suggest, with questions on the 2 statements above

"very bottom of the follower skirts".. where is that??

"spent cases OVER 10 yards"... what is the "normal" distance? I thought if it is weak, it will eject the cases closer, not farther??

lunch time at work, can only think about how to fix my 92

Quoted: Trying to digest what you suggest, with questions on the 2 statements above "very bottom of the follower skirts".. where is that?? "spent cases OVER 10 yards"... what is the "normal" distance? I thought if it is weak, it will eject the cases closer, not farther?? lunch time at work, can only think about how to fix my 92

#1: I believe he is talking about the mag follower, as they are usually plactic molds and could have some excess plastic on them causing them to not rise fast enough to keep up with the gun.

#2: No, a strong spring keeps it from going back too fast and returns it to the ready position. If the spring is weak, the slide will go back faster throwing the shell out further.

Quoted: Quoted: I'll catch heat for this, but there's no such thing as too much oil on a gun, IMO. Try that in the desert!

TN ain't the desert.    

I'm back from the range, shot 140 rounds and had 1 FT-chamber

Don't really know whats' causing my gun's problem (which is frustrating). I took the advice of lubing everything mentioned, including cleaning the magazines.

The one failure came at about the 130th round, gun still looked well lubed..

I guess I'll take what I can get, less than 1% failure is much better than what I started with! (sorry to bring up Glock again, but since that is the only other 9mm I have, that Glock has no failure of anykind in 1500+rounds from day one)

My non-professional conclusion is : CLP, especially for the 92FS.. maybe I just got a lemon

thanks for all the suggestions.

by the way, thanks for explaining the case ejection mechanism, I think my case was shooting out no farther than 10 yards..