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Posted: 10/13/2010 5:56:42 AM EDT
Wifes Pistol

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/Roguewardom/2010-10-1615-58-03095.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/Roguewardom/2010-10-1615-56-23860.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/Roguewardom/2010-10-1616-01-08832.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/Roguewardom/2010-10-1615-55-26300.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/Roguewardom/2010-10-1616-00-39291.jpg





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IzWh2Wvc4c&feature=related   -fast forward to 3 min

Item you need:
http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Tools/DRE00000422/product.php?

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=811360

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=432618
http://www.ak-builder.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29919  - most expensive and you only need the 7mm reamer.  I had one for my ak building :)
Link Posted: 10/13/2010 10:32:47 AM EDT
[#1]
Unless you are very handy with tools and confident that you can do this yourself w/o doing harm to the weapon, I'd suggest two things:

First: consider sending the frame to Bill Springfield (http://www.triggerwork.net) and have him work his $49 trigger job magic (incl return shipping) on it. Then, when you get it back (mine turned around in a week), remove the magazine safety and the trigger will be worlds better and acutally feel like a real handgun trigger.

Second: contact Claude Wright (http://Guncrank.com) and tell him you want his Mosquito polishing package done on it. Tell him I sent you and he'll know exactly what you are talking about, I had him polish the chamber wall, chamfer the chamber opening (leaving the step intact, it really doesn't hurt anything being there), & polish the bolt face. I don't recall exactly what I paid him, but Claude's prices are extremely reasonable.

These two things done, and ~500 rds of CCI MiniMags for break in, and my Mosquito runs perfectly (barring ammo problems).

I only felt justified in spending the money on this pistol because I won it in a raffle and only had $2.00 in it from the begining, and I still say that any product bearing the SigArms name SHOULD NEVER HAVE HAD TO HAVE ANY OF THIS DONE. Shame on Sig for selling something this poorly executed! Once cleaned up and the problems corrected, it's a nice little pistol, but out of the box, it was a nightmare!

If you feel you must do this yourself, use the finest tooth file you can find (only if you feel the step must be taken off) and get an inexpesive Dremel tool and use the felt wheels and a bit of jeweler's rouge to do the polishing. Above all, be patient and work slowly, you can always take more off, but you can never put any of it back!
Link Posted: 10/13/2010 12:29:05 PM EDT
[#2]
I am NOT watching 7 minutes of the first video and whatever the other ones are so you can fix that POS.
You should have bought a Ruger or Buckmark in the first place, but you thought tacticool was better.
End of rant.
I seem unusually grouchy today. But that doesn't mean my true feelings weren't expressed.
Link Posted: 10/13/2010 1:13:15 PM EDT
[#3]
actually those two pistols were what I wanted but my wife had to have "the pink one"     btw your quite the mind reader "today"    


thanks for the advice
Link Posted: 10/13/2010 7:17:12 PM EDT
[#4]
Sorry, that was harsh.
I just go nuts when folks ask whether they should buy a P-22, a Mosquito, the ISSC M-22 (Glock clone), or the ATI or Chiappa1911.
These either haven't got a history, or the history is spotty AT BEST.
Almost always .22 pistol  novices (often gun novices-they want something like Jack Bauer carries).
For the same money, a Ruger or Buckmark will last forever, and usually doesn't even need a break in.
OK ten minutes of my life gone.
I think a bullet shaped CrayTex bob and MAYBE the second cut file.
Drill press ought to work fine, you'll just be moving the work rather than the tool.
The CrayTex green bob will break the sharp lower edge of the chamber mouth at the top of the ramp. You don't want too much of a funnel; if too much case is unsuported, you can blow cases, with gas, burning powder granules, and bits of metal spewing back in your face.
http://www.cratex.com/rubpoint.htm

The number 8 point will do it all.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=11944/pid=25636/sku/Point__Medium___8_Bullet__1_16__Arbor
Link Posted: 10/14/2010 5:33:06 AM EDT
[#5]
thank you.   I actually used a 7mm reamer after not too much of a response.  I'm a ex army armorer but it's been YEARS since I did and "real" gunsmithing work.   I'll take pic's when I'm done.  

After I got the chamfer of the reamer cut into the barrel I stopped.  It feeds fine when i manually feed rounds.   Ie put a loaded mag in drop the side led it feed then rack it fast let go and feed repeat till empty..
I had one problem during the whole feeding and it was getting caught on feed ramp.  So after a polish I hope I will be GTG or the pistol will be sold or used as a training aid for novice shooters.  
So now all I need to do is polish the feed ramp and chamber.

I'm taking it out shooting today I'll pipe back in with my results so this thread isn't a waste.  Funny part is I used a AK-builder 7mm reamer to chamfer and it worked fine.  I did fine with a round file before using the reamer for about 10-15 min.   The case doesn't look unsupported.   I've never worked on pistols too much just installed sights and make a M92 cocked and locked carryable.

Funny how after asking things that it just comes to you when not much assistance is given.


anyways results to be shown tonight.  I'll take video if I can
Link Posted: 10/14/2010 11:29:27 PM EDT
[#6]
The work I did fixed any issues!!  NO jams or stove pipes what so ever HELL YEAH
Link Posted: 10/15/2010 2:52:42 AM EDT
[#7]
Link Posted: 10/16/2010 2:07:01 PM EDT
[#8]
btt i took some pics
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