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Posted: 11/17/2012 1:42:53 PM EDT
[#1]
I would think that by the time you get the work done and then refinish it would have been cheaper to buy one closer to what your after in the 650 to 700 dollar price range, maybe Im wrong.
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Posted: 11/17/2012 1:54:54 PM EDT
[#2]
In truth, I enjoy modifying the gun as much as anything. Even if I could buy one exactly the way I wanted for a reasonable price I wouldn't do it. I've learned a lot from working on them over the years. This is a picture of my last RIA project gun. It's long since sold, but it was fun to put it together.
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Posted: 11/17/2012 2:13:27 PM EDT
[#3]
The RIA billboard is usually stamped deep. Actually, I think it's either cast in or CNC'd later. How about doing a 'body shop' trick? Take some epoxy and fill in the billboard, then sand it smooth and use an air-dry coating to refinish*. I think you'll have to take off too much steel to get rid of it by sanding it out. The timing of the gun and spring weights are calculated with a certain slide weight. Plus, taking off that much steel means you'll be getting into the slide serrations and affecting the thicknes at the slide stop.
* I think you can find an epoxy that can take oven-curing which is 350F, not sure on that one. Oven-cured coatings are tougher. |
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Posted: 11/17/2012 2:28:09 PM EDT
[#4]
That sounds like a pretty good idea. I was planning on two-toning the pistol with Duracoat or the like anyway. I'll start researching the epoxy process. Thanks.
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Posted: 11/17/2012 3:29:48 PM EDT
[#5]
IIRC High Standards are also Armscor pistols.
They have a small rollmark and should be the same quality as the RIA Take a look that those |
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Posted: 11/17/2012 7:49:19 PM EDT
[#6]
Sand paper, sanding block and sweat. That's how to correctly remove roll marks and the Rock Island roll marks are deep. If you go to that amount of work, spray painting a finish or cold blue is pure blasphemy. See about getting a picture up a bit later on the last one I did. It wasn't perfect, but it was close for the 14 hours I had to fit new controls, remove roll marks and 25 lpi checker front strap before hot tank blue deadline. All of it was last minute, oh shit I got my handsfull, no sleep that night work and I hurt for days afterwards. Cut the guy a hell of a break in price just because I was up for the challenge. He could've bought a decent used Colt for what he had in it. Had I charged what should've been billed and taken the time to do everything perfect. All costs in including purchase price of pistol, $1,400.00.
See if I can find pictures. dc. |
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Posted: 11/17/2012 8:17:30 PM EDT
[#7]
Surface grinder and don't get it hot
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Posted: 11/18/2012 5:12:46 AM EDT
[#8]
Sarco sells blank slides, just swap em out.
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Posted: 11/18/2012 6:28:18 AM EDT
[#9]
Weld it up and mill it off flush.
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Posted: 11/18/2012 7:15:58 AM EDT
[#10]
I appreciate all the feedback. It looks like I've got some good options to evaluate before proceeding.
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Posted: 11/18/2012 1:11:25 PM EDT
[#11]
Welding and milling works too. Pictured above is matte blued finish. If you know what you're doing you can heat slide to 400 degrees after welding, heat treating the affected area so it will blue the same as unwelded area. Pictured slide did have some welding done but you can't tell it. Of course there's always spray paint\bake on finishes. Slide was milled for sights within the 14 hour deadline too. Problem was being in a hurry and quality don't mix. That's why welding had to be done. Sights didn't fit to suit so the rush job was kind of for nothing as I had to wait 2 months for hot tank to be fired again. Anyways, slide had the deep, gold roll marks and now it doesn't. |
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Posted: 11/18/2012 3:29:05 PM EDT
[#12]
I understand the Cimarron 1911 is an ARMSCOR made 1911 with Colt old school rollmarks. It comes in Park, a nice black armory like blue, and I think a nickle.
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Posted: 11/19/2012 7:14:37 AM EDT
[#13]
here's one i did. sanded off then blasted and reparked |
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Posted: 11/19/2012 9:40:06 AM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
I'm thinking seriously about another RIA project pistol. I however, don't like the new roll-mark. I'm curious as to whether anyone has had success removing it. Any success stories? Is it the "shininess" of the RIA roll marks that bothers you more than its presence? If so, you can always apply some cold blue to subdue them. |
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Posted: 11/20/2012 4:10:50 AM EDT
[#15]
I like the "slabsided" look. I'll probably subdue the markings as you suggested to see if I can get past it, but likely, I'll pursue one of the recommendations to take them off as suggested. I didn't realize there were so many ways to tackle this issue. The more suggestions received; the more interested I become in trying out different methods to remove them.
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Posted: 11/20/2012 4:33:05 AM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
I like the "slabsided" look. I'll probably subdue the markings as you suggested to see if I can get past it, but likely, I'll pursue one of the recommendations to take them off as suggested. I didn't realize there were so many ways to tackle this issue. The more suggestions received; the more interested I become in trying out different methods to remove them. Here's a picture of what the rollmark looks like after an application of cold blue: 
(this was shot it a lightbox so it is a good deal of ambient lighit) |
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Posted: 11/20/2012 8:36:00 AM EDT
[#17]
Hell, I thought y'all were talking about a different mark. Maybe this one is no longer used. The one shown above is not deep and would be easy to sand off - just stay away from the serrations. I was thinking of this one:
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