Posted: 2/27/2013 8:39:09 AM EDT
On my 1911 build, I want to recess the slide stop pin on the ejection-port side of the gun, similar to the one seen below.
I have access to Bridgeport machines at work, and have a few co-workers who are more than capable of doing the mod to the frame. The question I have is on the recess on the frame. Is it supposed to be a conical recess? Like a 90 degree spot tool? Or do people use a ball-end end-mill? I did find a DIY on a forum, I think perhaps "1911Forum", where the guy used a counter-sink tool, but I don't recall what angle it was. From my searching, I cannot find any type of official spec on it. Based on what it does, I would assume that it isn't hugely critical (unless you go way too deep). Does anybody have any info on this mod? Thanks! |
| Depending on the hardness of the receiver, you can scrap a frame in a second doing this. Most receivers are soft in this area, (don't ask me how I know). Play it safe and use the ball end tool. Leave at least .020" min/t around ID to prevent cracking. Good luck. |
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It's a custom touch popularized by baricade shooters. As such, there is no "official" tech standard (although certain builders may have in-house standards they use).
As crockett007 suggests, go careful and don't go too deep. Actually, there's no real "need" for the radiused relief at all. To avoid bumping the end of the pin, you could simply machine it (or file it) flush with the slidewall. Only downside is you'll probably need to use a "tool" (tip of a cartridge, ballpoint pen, or whatever) to press out the slide stop when you want to remove it. But that would avoid needing to alter or refinish the slide. ...Just a thought. ETA: If you file the pin end flat, you'd probably want to break (radius) the edge a little to simplify insertion. |
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The frame I will be doing this to is a bare frame from Caspian, so I do not have to worry about "messing up a finish" as it will be in the bare state.
I have seen the style where there is no recess and just a flush pin. I was thinking of doing somewhat of a hybrid. Just enough to start the pin out without tools, but not make it deeper than need be. And yes, I will be putting a slight round / chamfer on the pin to help it go through the frame. EDIT: Something like this. Just enough to start the pin by hand, but not a huge chamfer 
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| The main thing you need to be aware of is the stop pin holes in the frame take all of the force when the slide slams into battery because the stop pin is what keeps the slide on the pistol. Consequently, you want to be very careful in making the frame thinner around the end of the pin. This is actually the best reason for not letting the slide fly closed on an empty gun. Naturally you let it fly when loading, but a lot of the force is taken up by the act of loading so the stop pin/frame holes aren't hit with as much force. Fortunately the pin holes are located in a thick part of the frame, so you have some extra steel to play with. I look at this mod as cosmetic, because in order to push the pin while firing, the trigger finger would have to be on the pin. So I don't see how you can push the pin out to disable the gun while firing. I couldn't make it happen when racking the slide while pushing the pin either. But it does look good. |
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Quoted:
The frame I will be doing this to is a bare frame from Caspian, so I do not have to worry about "messing up a finish" as it will be in the bare state. I have seen the style where there is no recess and just a flush pin. I was thinking of doing somewhat of a hybrid. Just enough to start the pin out without tools, but not make it deeper than need be. And yes, I will be putting a slight round / chamfer on the pin to help it go through the frame. EDIT: Something like this. Just enough to start the pin by hand, but not a huge chamfer ] That will turn out just fine,......I recently got my Springer back from Joe Chambers, the frame pictured is very close to what Joe did. 
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