I'm a revolver n00b. I don't even own one yet. And I know very little about them, but I have been checking out gunbroker to get a rough estimate of pricing for the Python (hey, might as well spend the money to get something really nice, rather than buy a couple things that I don't want nearly as much).
The same pawnshop near me that has a $550 Delta Elite (and which I bought my $820 Delta Gold Cup from) has a Python marked at a cool grand ($999.99, actually). 6" barrel, what I can only assume is a nickel finish (It's extremely frickin' shiny), what look to be factory wood grips and factory sights. There is no box and no paperwork with the gun. I don't know what condition it is in (I don't know revolvers, but I would guess that it has fewer than 1000 rounds through it, but I really don't know....externally it looks probably 95% or so), nor when it was made.
So my question is, can anyone give me a ballpark figure for a fair price for this gun, and what I should look for in determining wear (specific to revolvers)? Does the date of manufacture have any bearing on the value separate from the wear?
My local dealer has 2 (i think with boxes) that are 99% royal blue finish for $995.00 each if that helps.I think I would hold out for one with the box and papers for that kind of money. I own 2 both with boxes and i turned down $1000.00 for them.My favorite is my 8" python in 38 special it shoots alot better than I do.
Pythons that are shiny could be bright nickel OR bright polish stainless steel.
Open the cylinder and look in the slot in the barrel the ejector rod fits. If it's stainless it'll probably have a small S stamped there.
Also push the ejector rod back and look under the ejector. In the center of the cylinder under the ejector is a pressed-in bushing. There will be an S stamped on the bushing.
If the gun is shiny under the grips, it's nickel plated.
Here's my instructions on how to check the timing of a Colt Python.
This is valid for the older Colt action guns like the Diamondback, Detective Special, Old Model Trooper, Official Police, and the Python.
It is NOT valid for later Colt's like the Trooper Mark III/King Cobra.
To check Colt timing:
BOLT RETRACTION AND "SNAP BACK".
Open the cylinder and look at the small "lug" in the bottom of the cylinder window. This is the cylinder locking bolt.
Cock the hammer, and watch as the bolt retracts into the frame and pops back out.
The bolt MUST begin to retract THE INSTANT the hammer begins to move.
There MUST be NO (ZERO) hammer movement possible before the bolt starts to retract.
The bolt should retract smoothly with no hesitation until it's fully retracted, then it MUST pop back out with a clean "snap".
There should be no hesitation, and no amount of "creeping" back out.
Close the cylinder.
Use your left thumb or fore finger to again cock the hammer, closely watching the cylinder bolt as you SLOWLY cock the hammer.
As the hammer comes back, the bolt will retract away from the cylinder.
The bolt MUST retract far enough to unlock the cylinder BEFORE the cylinder begins to rotate.
If the bolt is still slightly engaged with the cylinder lock notch, the cylinder will be attempting to turn while still partially locked.
This produces a "catch" or "hard spot" in the trigger pull and will damage both the bolt and the cylinder lock notches.
This often appears as metal "pulled out" of the lock notches, with rounded off and burred notches.
BOLT DROP TIMING.
Continue to cock the hammer, laying your right index finger on the cylinder just enough to prevent "free wheeling".
Watch for the bolt to drop back onto the cylinder. WHERE the bolt drops is CRITICAL.
The bolt MUST drop onto the lead or ramp in front of the actual cylinder notch.
If the bolt drops too soon, (in front of the notch ramp), it will mar the finish of the cylinder.
The bolt SHOULD drop into the MIDDLE 1/3rd section of the ramp.
If the bolt drops late, (farther toward the actual locking notch) the revolver may display "cylinder throw-by".
In this condition, during double action shooting the cylinder may rotate PAST the locking notch, and fire in an unlocked condition.
It's the nature of the Colt action, that a hesitant or jerky trigger pull by the user can induce throw-by in even a properly tuned Colt.
The Colt trigger should be pulled with a smooth, even pull, with no sudden jerks at the beginning.
Continue to pull the hammer back and both watch and listen for the bolt to drop into the cylinder lock notch.
The bolt MUST drop into the actual lock notch BEFORE the hammer reaches full cock.
The most common Colt mis-time situation is the hammer cocks before the bolt drops into the lock notch. (Hammer is cocked, but cylinder isn't locked).
In this condition, with the hammer fully cocked, you can push the cylinder slightly, and you will hear the "CLICK" as the bolt drops into lock.
In my experience, most Colt's leave the factory with the bolt dropping a little late into the lead, but usually wear in to correct timing.
If the bolt drops onto the cylinder early, no real problem, but there will be extra finish wear.
If the bolt drops late (closer to the lock notch) the cylinder may "throw by" or rotate TOO far in double action and this can cause off-center primer hits and firing while unlocked.
Each of these checks should be done on EACH chamber. All of these checks are better done individually. In other words, do the bolt retraction check on all six chambers, then do the bolt drop test, and so on.
A properly tuned Colt will:
Have a smoothly functioning bolt with no sticky or hesitant movement.
Unlock before the cylinder begins to turn.
The bolt will drop onto the middle 1/3rd of the cylinder locking notch ramp.
The bolt will drop into the lock notch before the hammer reaches full cock.
Have a smooth trigger pull, which does "stack" or get progressively heavier.
I have one of those too, bought NIB from a local gun store, but I haven't shot it because I bought the gun for my oldest son when he was born 20 years ago, and I will present it to him when he turn's 21.
Doucheatron3000: You got a good deal on the Delta Gold Cup, I bought one of them NIB from a gun store and I paid $700 out the door 15 years ago.