Posted: 10/28/2007 3:51:08 PM EDT
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I will be calling Kimber tomorrow, but wanted to ask here. Ultra CDP 2. Slide stop doesn't have any tension. While firing some times the stop will catch the slide and lock it back. The detent is there and its spring loaded, but the stop is just smooth where the detent rubs it. I can push up on it with my finger while hold the slide back and it will just stay in the upper position. This doesnt seem correct to me. Any ideas or info appreciated. |
| Is the slide stop loose? You mention this happens when your firiing. I've read this happen to a few people with 4 different brands so far in the past month and I think your thumb might be hitting the stop during recoil. You also mention that you can hold the slide back and push the stop up with you finger, this is normal and can be done with any semi.The magazine follower will make the slide stop move up after the last shot is fired. Mabey post a picture of the problem your describing. |
I first thought it was my thumb too, but thats not whats doing it. The slide stop just doesnt have any tension against it, none up or down. I agree that I should be able to move it upward when I push on it, but it should return to the lower position when I let go. |
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Had a 1911 that the slide stop didn't have much of a dimple to catch the plunger so I depened the dimple so the plunger, under spring tension, put pressure on the slide stop. ETA: This prevents the slide stop from jumping up under recoil and locking the slide to the rear. Your slide stop should stay in the engaged position when manually or mechanically engaged until it is manually pushed down or you sling shot the slide and the angled part of the cut out in the slide for the slide stop contacts the slide stop and forces it down. I'm only an armorer, but to me, it sounds like too shallow a dimple in the slide stop. Hope this helps. |
You can say shallow......there isnt a dimple at all. Thats what didnt seem right to me. Called Kimber and they are sending a modified one from the custom shop. Thanks everyone. ETA: I wonder if the new one will even have a dimple. |
| Kimber has been good to me and others I know, they'll square you away. Hang onto the old slide stop and create an indent or dimple where there should have been one, approximately where the plunger would rest with the slide stop completely disengaged. Who knows you may need an extra one day. It seems like when I did my repair I used a Dremel but I think a drill press would probably be better to remove a little metal. |
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From: www.sightm1911.com/lib/tech/reliability_secrets.htm Slide Stop The slide stop is often overlooked in reliability work. Once in a while the slide stop will activate during a string of fire, locking the slide back even though the last round has not been expended. There are two causes for this. One is that the nose of the ammo being used in the gun will lightly tap the projection of the slide stop inside the magazine well, popping it up prematurely. The solution here is to lightly file back the projection where it is getting "bopped," but not enough so the follower doesn’t activate it properly after the last round is fired. The second cause is usually an overweight slide stop. The "extended" slide stop is particularly notorious for this. The slide stop simply pops up from its own inertia as the pistol recoils. An extended slide stop is the answer to a non-existent question, and no serious defensive handgunner should use one (slide stop operation should be with the weak hand in a reload situation, not the shooting hand). So if you are tempted to fancy up your pistol with an extended slide stop, don’t. Some aftermarket slide stops are designed to be less bulky than the factory product. This keeps the mass of the part down and helps to prevent premature pop-up. A trick you may use to help prevent the phenomenon is to file a transverse groove with a small triangular file in the back of the slide stop where it meets the slide stop plunger in the down position. Any tendency for the slide stop to pop up is countered by the pressure of the plunger in the groove. If properly done, it should not impede the upward movement of the stop after the last round is fired when it’s activated normally by the magazine follower. If you want to get fancier, a Dremel tool can be utilized to grind a slight "dimple" in the slide stop at the same location, and it serves the same purpose. And from Bill Wilson: Problem : Premature Slide Lock Possible Cause : Too much meterial on slide stop lug,bad magazine, slide stop not flat with frame, inadequate slide stop plunger tension. (Picture M4) |
| Very common Kimber problem. I've had them where the rounds coming up in the magazine hit the lobe on the slide stop causing premature lockback. My most recent, though, was happening with the factory slide stop, but more frequently with a fitted Ed Brown stop. The rounds were not hitting the lobe in either case. The slide stop was engaging under recoil. Dropped in a Wilson w/detent cut and the problem went away. |
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I havent got the new slide stop yet. I am betting its modified on the lobe on the inside. I dont think thats the problem. I put a dimple in the end of the slide stop. All though I havent fire it yet you have to put some pressure on it to make it move now. The empty mag still moves it up like it should, so I must have gotten it just right. Thanks to everyone for all the info and to Lumpy for the link. Good info. |