Posted: 12/17/2013 3:01:15 PM EDT
| Hey everyone as the topic line says it's about the Colt Python. Anyone else who has a problem with a Colt Python feel free to ask about your problems if you have one. First off it's an excellent gun my first revolver so maybe my problem isn't as big as I think it is. But here it goes. When I bought it I can't recall if it was making this noise but now I realize every time I bring the hammer back with my thumb or decide to dry fire it it makes this slight DING sound like a spring catching on something and then releasing. I took it to the range last weekend and it fired superbly. But just recently I have been noticing that weird noise it seems almost as if it's coming from the locking mechanism so maybe I slammed it back in too hard but everything seems to be working fine. It's just of course making a weird annoying sound every time the hammer comes back. Any ideas? If I need to post a video I'll try to see if I can. |
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Mine does that too. When I got it, it had less than 100 rounds through it, but it was surface rusty. Sent it to Colt for reblue. As parts of the service, they inspect the weapon for needed repairs. Gunsmith called and said there were no problems with the gun. It made the "zing" noise before and after service. I've shot a couple of hundred rounds in the gun without problems. Hope this helps in some small way.
I'm sure a more knowledgable person wil be in here soon. |
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Glad I'm not the only one who has this issue. It's probably the most expensive gun in my collection and I want to make sure it's babied more then the others lol Also it still fires fine I've been reading on timing a revolver here on a MUCH older post in case anyone was interested in doing so.
http://www.ar15.com/archive/topic.html?b=5&f=33&t=15923 |
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Quoted:
Mine does that too. When I got it, it had less than 100 rounds through it, but it was surface rusty. Sent it to Colt for reblue. As parts of the service, they inspect the weapon for needed repairs. Gunsmith called and said there were no problems with the gun. It made the "zing" noise before and after service. I've shot a couple of hundred rounds in the gun without problems. Hope this helps in some small way. I'm sure a more knowledgable person wil be in here soon. If you don't mind what did this cost? I am looking at a rough one for a great price. |
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For reasons I never discovered and never heard a valid reason for, some of the old style Colt actions "Ring" when operated, especially when cocked in single action.
This is not really common, but it occurs often enough that it's known as the Ringing Colt syndrome. I always suspected it was the Colt hardened forged steel parts, probably the cylinder locking bolt, but never could narrow it down to the actual part or parts responsible. It has no effect on operation, but some people are concerned enough to even send the gun in to Colt, who find nothing wrong. |
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Quoted:
If you don't mind what did this cost? I am looking at a rough one for a great price. Quoted:
Quoted:
Mine does that too. When I got it, it had less than 100 rounds through it, but it was surface rusty. Sent it to Colt for reblue. As parts of the service, they inspect the weapon for needed repairs. Gunsmith called and said there were no problems with the gun. It made the "zing" noise before and after service. I've shot a couple of hundred rounds in the gun without problems. Hope this helps in some small way. I'm sure a more knowledgable person wil be in here soon. If you don't mind what did this cost? I am looking at a rough one for a great price. You'll have to call Colt and ask. I don't think they'll be taking in any new refinish work until January due to the flood of Colt Pythons being sent in for re-blues. Price, last I heard was "around" $200 and was taking something like 6 months earlier this year, again to the work load. I suspect some of these factory re-blued Pythons will be turning up for sale as "mint" guns, often in "original" boxes. However, best to actually talk to Colt when you have the gun in hand, they can tell you what the actual cost and turnaround time is then. |
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HUHHH????????......
The Python firing pin is retained by the solid steel frame in the front, and at the rear by the firing pin retainer plate. It might break, but it won't "fly down the barrel". Replacement is simple, remove the rear sight, slide the retainer plate up and remove the firing pin and spring. One caution, almost all Colt schematics show the firing pin spring in BACKWARD. Years ago an artist drawing one of the first schematics got it wrong, and it's been just copied ever since. To be clear, the Colt "I" frame firing pin spring is oriented with the small end over the firing pin, the wide end of the cone-shaped spring faces forward. Here's a Python schematic. At the front of the firing pin is a solid frame. The pin isn't going forward through solid steel. The firing pin retainer plate part 72 holds it from the rear. Note the cone-shaped firing pin spring part 115 is shown BACKWARD. I often found Colt "I" frame revolvers with the spring in backward installed like the incorrect drawings show it. http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Colt-/Python-sid149.aspx |
| Yeah, the Python I had was dry fired thousands and thousands of times; I broke a few things on that gun, but nothing to do with the firing pin. I can't tell you how many rounds I had through that gun, 100K maybe? Probably have fired more rounds through it than any other gun, and I still found I shot S&W's better than it. |
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from here one of many hits on do not dry fire pythons. I hate to contradict the fine people who've offered their opinions, but I must disagree.
I work on Pythons on a daily basis, and advise all my clients NOT to dry-fire their Colts without snap-caps. Python firing pins can and do break without without a cartridge or snap-cap to arrest their forward movement. If proper precautions are taken, Python firing pins will last indefinitely; however, if they are dry-fired on empty chambers their lifetime will be very limited. __________________ DO WHAT you want it's your python snap caps are cheaper than a new firing pin. |
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The problem is how you stated it.
Colt "I" frame revolver firing pins can't "Come loose and fly down the barrel", but they can and do break. In most revolvers it's just good practice to use snap caps. Hammer mounted pins do break occasionally, and they tend to "crater" metal outward on the front of the firing pin hole in the frame. This can cause problems with the pushed out metal causing stiff cylinder rotation until a round is fired, which pushes the metal back in place. Over time this can enlarge the firing pin hole. Frame mounted pins do have a problem with possible breakage from dry firing. Many guns like the Colt "I" frames are easy and cheap to replace, but many are definitely NOT either easy or cheap. Many revolver frame-mounted firing pins are pressed in at the factory and require press devices and special support jigs and press-punches to remove or install. As example, the later Colt's like the Mark III, Mark V, King Cobra, Anaconda, etc require special factory-only equipment to press the broken pin out and a new one in. Unknowing people, including some gunsmiths drive them out and back in with hammers and punches and often cause serious damage. With frame mounted pins it's just good sense to use snap caps, and if you do a lot of dry firing, it's best to use them with hammer mounted pins to. Bottom line, it's just a good idea to use snap caps with revolvers. |