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Posted: 8/3/2004 7:27:21 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/3/2004 7:29:46 PM EST by Teflon_Tip]
This is my first time posting here, but I've been a member for a while. Generally I can get the hang of mechanics pretty well, but my Series 80 has got me frustrated.

How do I remove the Hammer strut pin (#20) ?

I recently got some Wilson Combat parts to modify my pistol with. I've popped pin after pin out of this gun, but I can't get the hammer strut pin (#20) free. This is critical because I'm going to replace both the hammer (#18) and the beavertail safety (#22), and I want to use the stock hammer strut (#19) and hammer strut pin (#20). So, I need to just pop out this pin, switch hammers, and pop the pin back in.

Is there a secret to this? I've tried to use a small punch to pop it out, just like I did with the other pins, but it didn't budge.

http://helix.gatech.edu/Classes/ME4192/1998Q3/webs/Bulletproof2/gun1911part.gif

(Hammer strut pin is part #20 in the diagram)

If anyone could help me out, it would be greatly appreaciated.

Teflon_Tip
Link Posted: 8/3/2004 11:57:14 PM EST
Link Posted: 8/4/2004 7:33:16 AM EST
Is the back strap off? #'s 16 and 17. There is pressure against the hammer strut if the back strap is still in place.
Link Posted: 8/4/2004 12:49:03 PM EST
Anothergene- Thanks for the idea about something solid with a hole. I had been using a folded up bath towel, worked like a charm on the other pins, and had some give to it. I don't have my new beavertail safety yet, so I'm gonna wait till my dealer gets that before I take my baby back apart, but then I'll give that a try. If not, a couple of 1911 buffs work with my dealer, I'll take the part strait to them.

Voodoo- Oh yeah, I should have been more specific. This baby was torn all the way down. Bare bones. I've used an Ed Brown Bench reference guide to take my .45 apart, so I know that there is nothing else in my way. The way the piece looks when I get it apart is like this.

http://www.sightm1911.com/images/Tool03.jpg

It's the curved piece on the far right, as you can see, nothing is impeding it's movement. But thanks for the help, I really do appreaciate you responses.

Teflon_Tip

P.S. When baby is well again, You'll have to look at the 1911 pics, I'll throw in some befores and a couple afters, as well as some mauled targets!
Link Posted: 8/4/2004 12:58:48 PM EST
What I did was give up after 2 minutes of trying and buy another hammer strut and pin to put on my CMC commander style hammer.

I think with the amount of money you spend on parts fixing up a 1911, the $7 for a strut and pin are not bad.
Link Posted: 8/4/2004 1:57:35 PM EST
Sorry, but it has been awhile since I took mine down for the same reason as you. Used a book from the NRA and everything came apart with very little resistance. Course an AMT Hardballer probably has plenty less quality than your piece. Oh, good luck with the gun.
Link Posted: 8/4/2004 4:04:31 PM EST
Nationwide- Yeah, thats plan B. Which will probably replace plan A shortly. Oh yeah, I like you avatar... "Fuckin' A man."

Thanks again for all the help guys,

Teflon_Tip
Link Posted: 8/11/2004 5:24:59 AM EST
When I builtm 1911 clone I had to use a hammer/punch to instal that pin. Mine was an interference fit. I thnk your best bet was already mentioned, the hard surface with a hole. If you have an old hockey puck around (or even a new one) drill a hole in it and use that.
Link Posted: 8/12/2004 3:17:26 PM EST

Originally Posted By wilNva:
When I builtm 1911 clone I had to use a hammer/punch to instal that pin. Mine was an interference fit. I thnk your best bet was already mentioned, the hard surface with a hole. If you have an old hockey puck around (or even a new one) drill a hole in it and use that.



Kiss your mother with that mouth, do ya???
Link Posted: 8/13/2004 5:47:24 PM EST
Brownell's sells a Gunsmith's Block made out of a Nylon material.
Inexpensive, durable, and you can beat the pins on it without marring any surface.
There are holes drilled in the block so you can punch the pin out and find it underneath when you pick it up. For $20 it's worth it to have.
Link Posted: 8/14/2004 5:49:20 PM EST
i 2nd the bench block,
i have came across a few strut pins that were very tight.
just a solid surface and a few well placed hammer / punch blows drives it out

i have found that the pin is tight in the strut not the hammer

Link Posted: 8/15/2004 2:24:25 PM EST
I have a Nylon chopping block I use as a working surface, I have holes drilled around the outer corners for this.


And I have a Plastic block with holes drilled in it that I use for roll pins and such as well.
Link Posted: 8/20/2004 4:59:16 AM EST
Great news everybody!

Got the pin out!

I just had the pistol apart again yesterday (Finally got my beavertail safety in!!!) and I put the hammer W/strut on a vise covered in an old tee-shirt. Pop goes the pin. Used a small punch, something like a 1/16th inch and a tack hammer. Put the new hammer and strut together, and re-assembled the pistol. IT IS DONE.

Thanks again for all the help guys, expect pics very, very soon.

Teflon_Tip
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