Quoted: Thanks for your response. I havent really spent any tim eresearching the reloading route - always thought it would be time intensive. Coudl you help me understand the per round costs of reloading and the time one might need to load 500 rounds? |
gonna depend on the style of reloading press--single stage, turret, or progressive.
The single stage is a long, tedious process. This is what I use, and I got it as a complete beginner's kit. (Lee Anniversary Kit--cost me less than $100 for everything needed to roll my own .45 ACP, and now I do .308 and .223 as well) It takes me about 2 hrs to make 150 rds, but I know that every round made is basically match grade. You have to change out the dies for every operation. (size/decap, prime, flare/fill, seat, crimp. I generally do groups of 150 for each operation so I don't have to keep changing out the dies) It's slow, but on the plus side, you have complete control over every step in the process.
The turret type is similar, except that you turn the turret to the next operation instead of having to unscrew and replace the die. It's quite a bit faster than the single stage, and you get a complete round after 4 pulls of the lever instead of having a bunch of partially completed brass waiting to get tipped over. These are about twice the price of the single stage.
The progressive is the fastest by far, but (arguably) the most error prone....gotta watch your primers, brass, and powder feed. It's easy to get into a rhythm and space out, and continue pulling the lever after the powder or primer feed runs empty. Every pull of the lever creates one complete round. These are the most expensive. I don't know the prices, but google Dillon Precision. **every KaBoom I've personally witnessed (5) were double charged, loaded on a Dillon 550....by different people.
At the last gun show for a little less than $200, I bought
1000 230gr FMJ
2000 CCI primers
2 lbs of Accurate Arms #5 powder (enough powder for about 5000 .45 ACP)
Between what I've saved from my Blazer Brass/WWB and what I've scrounged at the club, I have enough brass to last me several years of shooting. (If I shoot apprx 5000/year, I won't run out of brass until I'm too old to shoot--I have
seven 5 gal buckets full of once fired brass--I got it from newbies at the range who didn't want to rake up their brass, or I already paid for it when I bought the factory ammo)
So....counting free brass, and that I've already paid for the reloading equipment.....1000 rds of very consistent, nearly match grade ammo costs me about 8 hrs of my time, and less than 500 rds of crappy steel cased Wolf costs. I could cut this cost in half by molding my own projectiles, but I really don't want to add anything more to the effort.
**there's people here who like reloading as much as shooting.....for me, it's a chore that I have to do so that I can enjoy shooting. I stick to very basic, simple recipes directly from the powder manufacturer. I use 8 grains of AA #5 simply because it meters well, and it's a high volume powder. I CAN'T double a powder charge and still seat the bullet because it fills up so much of the case. (down side to this is that a pound of powder doesn't go nearly as far as a pound of a low volume powder)