Posted: 4/27/2017 8:34:08 PM EDT
| Can anyone tell me in as few words as practical - should I reload ammo differently for my 4.6" and 6.0" barrel 10mm handguns?. I am going to load 115 grain Lehigh Xtreme defense bullets. Both guns shoot the same factory ammo just fine. I do not have access to a chrongraph. I would like to push the velocity up to around 1750 fps for the 6" gun. Thanks. |
| Pushing velocity is not the actual answer. Find reliable data provided by the bullet or powder company and use that as a guide starting at we'll below max working up to desired performance level and never ever exceeding listed max per manual. It seems the 10mm today and the 44 mag back in the 1970's suffer the same problem people trying to push performance beyond the parameters of the cartridge and damage guns and worse. Reloading technique is the same for all straight walled cases. |
|
I agree pushing velocity is not the answer.Â
I have 4 different 41 magnum revolvers. I use the same load for all of them, and let the individual gun determine the velocity based on the fact the load shoots fine in all 44 for my shooting. Where I do vary the loads is one gun is specific for handgun hunting, so in addition to that "standard" load I share between guns, I have a higher velocity, differentBy listening to students attempt to play, T can recommend changes to fingerings, embouchure formation, tongueing, note names, etc.T then can play with students, assign more practice, have them demonstrate, based on there progress and needed next steps.  bullet load for hunting. If I carried one for self defense, I would have a specific load for that.So as I understand your question, I would not load differently for the same caliber guns, I would load for different purposes if I had a different purpose for each gun/load. |
|
I agree pushing velocity is not the answer.Â
I have 4 different 41 magnum revolvers. I use the same load for all of them, and let the individual gun determine the velocity based on the fact the load shoots fine in all 44 for my shooting. Where I do vary the loads is one gun is specific for handgun hunting, so in addition to that "standard" load I share between guns, I have a higher velocity, differentBy listening to students attempt to play, T can recommend changes to fingerings, embouchure formation, tongueing, note names, etc.T then can play with students, assign more practice, have them demonstrate, based on there progress and needed next steps.  bullet load for hunting. If I carried one for self defense, I would have a specific load for that.So as I understand your question, I would not load differently for the same caliber guns, I would load for different purposes if I had a different purpose for each gun/load. |
| Wow I didn't know they made 115 grain bullets for 10mm. In looking at their blue dot recommended load data on the Lehigh site, they mention a max of 12.2 grains. That's the same max for 165 grain rounds. Blue dot is too slow burning ultimately and you're not going to get the pressure necessary to get any serious velocity out of this bullet, which is crazy light for the caliber. I wish they had a power pistol loading as I haven't used the others they mention. Definitely don't bother trying the blue dot recipe for this one. |
| Secondly, the only reason why you'd load differently for different handgun barrel lengths is if your using plated bullets like from berry's or rainier which have a 1200 fps max velocity. I have a 155gr berry's plated bullet on top of 9gr of Alliant power pistol which is right at 1200 fps out of my 3.75" Glock 29. This same bullet is significantly faster out of my 6" STI 2011 though, so I'd have to down load the powder or switch to jacketed bullets for it to be safe out of that gun. The max pressure spike happens in the first couple inches of the shot. By the time it reaches inch 4, you're looking at only 15k psi or less and it goes down from there even as velocity increases. So longer barrels don't mean higher pressure. |
|
I respectfully disagree. Â Pushing the velocity (safely) is a big part of reloading. Â This is especially true of 10mm Auto since so many manufactures are basic loading 40S&W loads in 10mm. Â Reloading is about getting the cartridge to do what you want it to do (within safe reason) not living with factory ammo.
You can push the velocity safely. Â To do that you need to do the research and have the equipment. Â Start with good data, a good scale, and other measurement equipment and have a good chronograph. Â If you are will to spend the time to learn how to use it you can go even farther using Quickloads and and a Chrono but that takes a serious investment into learning the software and the theory behind it. That all said a quick dive into Quickloads makes me think you cannot get that 115gr 10mm bullet going 1750 fps from a 6 in barrel and stay safely under SAAMI max pressure. |
|
Thanks for the responses. I went out and bought a chrono so problem solved. I had no idea they were so inexpensive. Also on my iPad the Lehigh load data forms appeared blank. Looked at it on the PC and the forms are filled in with data. A software issue.
Respectfully, I also say that velocity is a big - maybe the biggest reason for reloading now that the price of ammo has dropped so much. Energy equals mass time velocity. For a given mass bullet, the faster it moves the more energy it delivers. A lighter bullet needs to go faster if for no other reason than to have adequate knock down power. Also, velocity is the key to less drop at a given distance. Simple physics. As for my original question, I will figure it out with the chrono. I am shooting at coyotes at 120-150 yards with my Glock 40 6"barrel 10mm handgun. Lucky to hit 1 out of 5. At 100 yds the score is better than 50/50. I find it hard to go beyond 100 yds with the 135 grain factory ammo. And I do know a rifle would be better but I am tired of lugging one around. Besides the handgun is much more challenging and a lot of fun at these distances. I will save my model 700BDL 7mm/08 for deer. Well ...... maybe an occasional coyote. It will really reach out there and get them. |
|
Thanks guys. I will consider what you have said. Basically I do not want a best all around load! I want a long range load. I am not really worried about tearing up the gun except for safety. I have never worn out a Glock and I shoot hand loads a lot. Mostly .40 and 10mm. I jokingly refer to the 10mm as a "S&W .40 Magnum". I find most of the factory loads unsatisfactory to the point of "why bother?" with what is essentially a .40 equivalent. 10mm Buffalo Bore 180 grain is ok. Some of the other so called "hot" cartridges I have not tried.
Back to my original question stated a little differently - " Should I use a different powder for a 10mm with 6" barrel than for a handgun with a 4.6" barrel?". Chime in. I will be doing some loading and range testing next week and let you know how it turns out. Thanks again for your comments. |
| In general, I think 115 grn is too light for 10MM, nevertheless, I think every single load that has one different component should be worked up safely and separately. I don't know how to properly split hairs without a chronograph, relying on pressure signs is to general for me. Even a cheap Chrony will give you deeper insight to achieve, a safe load for any purpose. |
|
800x works great , but you need to have a very good powder dispenser as it is hard to meter on a progressive loader. the Dillon works great .
Over all I agree 115 is too light for a 10mm . Finding the sweet spot where accuracy and velocity are at their best without high pressure is the way to go . 
|