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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 6/14/2002 8:59:57 AM EST
[Last Edit: 6/14/2002 9:15:51 AM EST by Geachtete]
Link Posted: 6/14/2002 9:09:43 AM EST
Unless you want to lay out big bucks for welding equiptment, the best thing is for you to look in the yellow pages for a welder to build it. Another idea is to go to a public school or a trade school who will build it for you as a class project. Donation to them would also help...fullclip
Link Posted: 6/14/2002 9:13:31 AM EST
Link Posted: 6/14/2002 9:20:20 AM EST
[Last Edit: 6/14/2002 9:22:15 AM EST by freeride21a]
what kind of welder? stick? use 6011 welding rod, easy to use, wont stick, molten metal is kinda thick during welding so it wont run all over the place. my favorite is 7018...but its a tad harder to use than 6011... use 3/32" rod or 5/32" some others to try if 6011 isnt avalable are 6012, and 6013 if you dont mind it pitting, use regular steel plate, 3/4" steel will allow for 3/8" divots from .308. if you dont want it do divot, get some stuff called AR500(abrasion resistant) i dont know where, or pricing, but that is the stuff you want for high power. if your using a mig welder, there should be feed/voltage info on the inside of the side access pannel, try those first, then fine tune from that. Beware, most home mig welders wont do that great of a job on material over 3/8" thick. stick is not that bad to learn, and you dont need a book, you can even find quick references online i bet. the only settings you need to really get right are polarity 6011,12,13 AC or DC reverse polarity 7018 DC reverse polarity and the voltage...again..voltage you usually have to fiddle with, if its to low, youll stick, if its too high, you get too big of a puddle and a very deep penetration..and can burn through thin material. for 3/4" plate i use around 120-140(on miller dialarc 250(type of welder)) dont make it too heavy, or moving it will be a pain...and if there is a welding shop...ask them questions, they would probly be glad too answer :D also, just get it together, looking good comes with time...so dont expect anythign near perfect..as long as it holds its own and can stay up...you dun gud :D [img]http://000buck.d2g.com/shooting/lytlecreek3%2D02/beforesil.jpg[/img] [img]http://000buck.d2g.com/shooting/lytlecreek3%2D02/steelfun%2D1.jpg[/img]
Link Posted: 6/14/2002 9:20:36 AM EST
Link Posted: 6/14/2002 9:28:45 AM EST
You can make one out of 2x4s and a pipe across the top. for targets just get 2 stop signs and the posts. turn upside down and bolt to the pipe -==============- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - hows my drawing? stop signs are everywere. Just make sure its not on a street that u use . just kiding but lowes has steel plate and channel that could be bolted togeather and used ammo1015 (call Sign lease breaker)
Link Posted: 6/14/2002 9:31:56 AM EST
Geachtete, Too bad you don't live closer to Texas. I have built several "Wildlife Observation Towers" for myself and "Friends". I would be glad to help.[:D] fullclip
Link Posted: 6/14/2002 9:37:20 AM EST
Another idea, wherever you buy your steel, there should be some of the working guys on the yard that should be available to work after hours on small projects. Just ask around, they aren't hard to find...fullclip
Link Posted: 6/14/2002 10:04:38 AM EST
Link Posted: 6/14/2002 10:18:37 AM EST
LoL 7018 is a blast to use, I enjoy using that stuff. If your speed and technique are just right your slag will peel off on its own. No chipping required [8D] [b]But for your application. Id just take your materials and a diagram, to a local weld shop and have them cobble it up for you. The cost will be very minimal.[/b] Theres no sense in spending money on a buzz box if you really don't need to.
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