Posted: 8/8/2011 8:14:43 PM EDT
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Swapping 3.0L in my 94 4runner (I know, I know - but 3.4L is NOT HAPPENING right now.)
Trying to avoid pulling the donor engine apart to get to the knock sensor due to a plug/connector mis-match for the harness I am attempting to splice/solder a shielded wire to a regular 2-wire line. like this: 
I gather the KS is simply "listening" so it's not high amperage or anything...correct? Sorry for the emergency tech question, but will this work? |
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Quoted:
Swapping 3.0L in my 94 4runner (I know, I know - but 3.4L is NOT HAPPENING right now.) Trying to avoid pulling the donor engine apart to get to the knock sensor due to a plug/connector mis-match for the harness I am attempting to splice/solder a shielded wire to a regular 2-wire line. like this: http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a12/Xnij/splice.jpg I gather the KS is simply "listening" so it's not high amperage or anything...correct? Sorry for the emergency tech question, but will this work? Correct. It'll work fine. After soldering, be sure to waterproof the splice as much as you can. Electrical tape is OK, self-vulcanizing tape is better, heat shrink tubing or Plasti-Dip is best. |
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Quoted: Might work. The shielding is protecting the tiny signal on the interior wire from the stray signals. You might wrap that center wire with an insulator and then try to come up with a shielding of some sort. Heat shrink it. Then wrap in tinfoil. Heat shrink over that. |
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The knock sensor is usually a piezoelectric transducer which means that the signal is not going to work well with any sort of leakage to ground.
If you solder it up and seal the living sh!t out of it, it'll probably be ok. The self-vulcanising tape is by far your best bet for the final coat. Plasti-dip or other vinyl dip ought to work well as a base layer. Heat-sealed heat shrink tubing (the kind with an inner hot-melt layer) is what I would use first with the plasti-dip as a second coat and the self-vulcanizing as the outer layer. |