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Posted: 1/7/2006 6:18:47 PM EDT
Monday I break ground on a new underground range for my neighbor. 25 yard target line. Range is rifle rated, but at 25 yard no need for other than pistol. I'll be posting progress pics. All you'll see above ground is a couple of vents. I thought it'd be interesting enuff for a thread.
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We're gonna need pics. How do you plan on supporting the top of the tunnel?
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I will build one of these under my house some day. Be sure to post construction details and pics so I can take notes!!! Especially the ventilation system and ratings, and backstop.....I like to shoot CQB carbine.
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anxious to see the ventilation (remember the lead that gets thrown into the air).
is it a private range or a business range? |
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The tunnel is 4x4, posts every four feet. Top of the tunnel has a foot or so of dirt over it. Finished product looks like a mound of sorts. Something like a drain field that is common in this area. Put some bushes on it come spring, and all is good.
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Tag.
I've always wanted to do that too........mostly concerned about support, and how much db/noise leaks out. |
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I'll be sure to post pics. The ventilation is definetly a factor, but certainly reasonable cost wise. I worked for several years as a range builder so this is by no means my "first rodeo". If anything, I'd hope to inspire a few of you to try it yourself.
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Considered doing something like that using 36" dia. concrete sewer pipe, but not sure about lighting and target access (other than some form of trolley/pulley system). Plus, Since I don't ahve the scratch, I've never bothered to price out the pipe.
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You're on the right track with the sewer pipe, or you can do it a little easier with planking. Got some pics on the way here in a few. |
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A 4' tall shooting range? You must be short. Just bury a School bus underground. No wait that might be a bad idea. |
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Just the tunnel is 4x4, the bunker at the firing line has a 8'+ ceiling. Be nice to have same height the full length, but that'd cost way more coin, and it's "not in the plans"..
Work with me, in the end it'll all be clear. |
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I am thining about doing this in my next house but using plastic culvert pipe I see here for tunnel. Is there really a need for a back stop plate? couldnt you just leave it open and fire directly into the dirt?
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The whole range gets covered with dirt, no less that 1' so as to dampen the noise. If you were to shoot just into the back wall, in time it would erode, and you would also have a hole full of lead in your yard. The pit and plate is very simple in design, and rather inexpensive.
Plastic culvert would work, other than if you wing one through it, you have a hole to contend with. I've used concrete tubing and 2x planking both in the past. The tubing is fast to install, but heavy to work with. Planking goes up fairly quick, is easy to work with, and if you really "drill" a piece, it can be replaced. |
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you could but if you hit the tunnel tube you would go right thru it, also the water would get in to the tunnel. if you really wanted you could just fill a "bunker" at the end with a pile of dirt, you might have to rake it back in to a pile every few years. also you would not want to put in the plastic tunnel and cover it with concrete, the ribs backed with concrete could cause the bullet to come back at ya. if you get precast sewer type "bunker" it would have a steel cap that you could pull off to gain access. and with a few smaller holes for fan forced ventalation. you could probably get seconds ( not perfect, rejects ) pretty cheap but it might take a while to get it all ( piece here and there ) |
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Hmmmm, never done it myself but it seems like ventilation would be easy. Have a couple high power centrifugal inline fans or squirrel cage type blowers near your backstop, and fresh air intakes behind your firing line. The fans sucking air through the tunnel and sending it up top to the outside. That way the whole range is negative pressure, and all lead particulates are sucked away from the shooter. I'd definately over ventilate it(lead poisoning doesnt sound like fun to me), probably swapping the air out at least 5 times per minute. You could do that for about a grand I'd say. If you wanted to go real overboard have additional air filtration inside using HEPA filters. Just tossing some ideas out.
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Very correct. Sure you haven't done this before... |
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I'm a long way from buying/building a house, but how feasible would it be to have a range like this integrated into your basement?
How much $$$ would something like this cost? |
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you could use only lead-free ammo, although that would get expensive after a while.
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to give you an idea a 6 foot wall one hundred yards long using cinder block would cost about 1000 dollars, just for block. so double it for 2 walls ... 2000 in cinder block figure about another 1000 for concrete for the floor and another 1500 for wood and concrete roof, plywood laid on top of the walls then pored with 4 inches of concrete on top of that lighting 200 it would be a good idea to cover the first 20 to 30 feet of the walls, floor and ceiling with cheap carpet to cut down on the noise, mostly echos yes i have it planed out, it will also double as a tunnel to the garage/work shop/pool house/guest house |
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I've done em in people houses before, but not a big fan of it. If you sell and the buyer doesn't like guns....? If the ventilation fails to operate correctly, you pump lead dust into your house (seen it done) Fail to armor it correctly, and you can wing a round through your house Noise...unless you spend a lot of coin, you will always here something. Mama getting out of bed to tell you to quit shooting, will close the range FAST.... This range is looking to come in around $4k. I've got a lot of the material, free labor, etc. |
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I thought about this from the basement. The grade falls away enough that at 100 yards the pipe would come out on the surface. I have a wood basement wall so the hole would be no problem.
If you use 24" tile with a couple tee's with fans for exhaust. The noise in the house is a concern plus not being able to see anyone around the target while firing. It would work good because you would face the bench to the wall and the open end would be natural light. Pop a wood insulated plug in there when not in use. |
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A pit and plate style trap has a"pit" to catch the rounds in. After you have a sufficient amount of lead in the pit, you scoop it out, hepa-vac it all to be neat, and away you go. |
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Do you have diagrams or building schematics you would like to share?
PJ |
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i plan on double doors for sound. the bullet trap will be one of those rubber block targets on wheels. the rubber blocks could be restacked as they wear to cut down how fast they wear out, i saw one that had taken 5000 rounds of 223 with out one bullet leaving the block. it was kind of cool to see a 100 lb block of rubber weight 125 lbs with the lead in it. i would also lock the doors at the far end when ever shooting |
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This looks to be a great thread!
There should be a way to "tag" a thread without posting "tag" in it. It really is a waste of space. Bob |
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If I was to do an underground shooting lane where I live at..... it could also be use to test out aqua bumb firing.
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I have used rubber blocks in the past, but only as a secondary means of "bullet catch'n". They're gonna cost some coin, you can't get em at HomeDepot, and you're liable to get some kickback from one round impacting another. With a big budget, you could go hog wild and have the latest and greatest range in your backyard. This project is aimed more at being professional, practical, and inexpensive. |
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