I'll be honest and admit I cheat on flash metering, but that's something you'll need to learn for a 100% manual flash. The ones I use are TTL then convert it to manual settings for tweaking as needed. That said, my lights do a lot of stuff different from most, so I'm limited on advice I can give.
1. Get rechargeable batteries like the Amazonbasics Eneloop clones, or Eneloops, etc.
2. Never shoot the flash straight at your subject, you'll get hot spots and harsh shadows that can really screw up the shot. If indoors, angle the flash up so it'll bounce the light off the ceiling and hit your subject from about 45 degrees or so. A lot of flashes have a bounce card that works in a pinch too. Same deal, but it'll toss a bit of the light straight forward for a little fill on someone's face.
3. Shoot in RAW, base ISO (lowest it'll go without going into modes like Lo1, etc), 1/200 or 1/250 is likely your flash sync speed but you can check in settings, and f/9 give or take. If you want a shallower depth of field, leave your ISO alone, same with shutter speed because going out of the sync range causes issues. Instead, open the aperture and lower the power of the flash.
4. For freezing action (water drops, brass in the air from a rifle being fired at night, etc) it sound backward, but less flash is good. Shorter light pulse duration. 1/64 power on that flash should have a pulse duration of 1/10000 of a second give or take for example. (see photo below) This was 1/32 power (I think) so around 1/9000 pulse speed on my flash (off camera), on a 3 second exposure . That way I'd get a mostly dark frame, but with the light from the flash filling in the subject and freezing the brass in the air. Mostly as a proof of concept. I'll be playing with it more later this fall.
5. Practice, practice, practice.