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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 5/11/2001 1:02:55 PM EST
I am a "newbie" when it comes to AR-15s, and am awaiting my Rock River Arms CAR kit to arrive. This may explain the simplicity of my question. I have noticed that most pre-ban mags are in poor finish...hence the common "30% or 50%", etc. Are the USGI pre-ban mags made of metal so that they can be stripped and refinished? I am just thinking that it would be wise to disassemble them, strip off the bluing, and re-blue them with a more durable finish (i.e. not the "blue in a bottle" crap either). Any thing I should know? Is the wise? Stupid? Difficult? Anything I should avoid? All comments will be appreciated.
Link Posted: 5/11/2001 1:22:15 PM EST
Tailgate, just wanted to welcome you and hope you enjoy this humble site. I'm sure somebody here will have the answer to your mag question. I haven't redone any of the finishes on my mags because I lack the time and desire to do the process on my own. Besides I only have a few mags that could use some refinishing and may just send them out. The rest of my mags look good. The user name "Tailgate"...ummmm, by any chance are you related to RoyDMercer? Anyway, it is good to have you! [:D] -RoadDog
Link Posted: 5/11/2001 2:22:56 PM EST
Link Posted: 5/11/2001 2:23:33 PM EST
i've never used any because i like my stuff to have that battle tested look but Brownells sells some spray on stuff that you bake in the oven......Dick
Link Posted: 5/11/2001 2:33:52 PM EST
Tailgate, Check out the magazine forum for heaps of info about magazines/magazine refinishing.
Link Posted: 5/12/2001 2:55:42 AM EST
Since they are aluminum, can't you send them out to have them anodized. I know of several companies that do anodizing. Has anyone tried this?
Link Posted: 5/12/2001 3:34:14 AM EST
I have used the Brownells teflon/moly paint. Came out OK. You have to follow those directions to the tee, and buy extra nozzles. Would I do it again, maybe. That paint isnt cheap, besides as soon as you start to use them the paint begins to scrape off. I'm kind of anal about my equipment. Thats why I did it in the first place. Next time I'll buy some more ammo instead. Eric
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 8:36:30 AM EST
Thanks everyone for the information. I guess I'll just use the "looks rough" excuse when buying them, and not waste my time on refinishing. ROAD DOG: No, I have no idea who Roy D Mercer is. My username is based on the fact that many people in my life have given me this nickname because it's similar to my last name...ironically, people called my father this too when he was in the FBI back in the late 60's. What's funny is, most people think that they are coming up with an original nickname...but the fact is, a lot of people 'come up' with it!! Oh well...
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 8:42:52 AM EST
I think Anodizing is an awesome idea but I couldn't get anyone to reply to my post on the subject. Anodizing is the most durable. Has anyone done this or know how much it would cost?
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 8:56:18 AM EST
Try this stuff http://www.brownells.com/Product/productDetail.asp?ProductID=083002012&CategoryID=0 ALUMA-HYDE II, I use this on all my mags. Just follow there recommendations. Heat the part, spray it down and let it cure for a week. Its great stuff. Labrat454
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 9:07:33 AM EST
Try Paul Podhorn.......No wait!!!! I was just kidding. Sorry, I couldn't resist.[:)]
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 9:11:34 AM EST
I have a 30 rounder finished in the gray Teflon coat from brownells and a black 20 rounder. The finish it really nice and quite durable. Some is wearing off on the edged of the top that goes into the mag well. I would like to get some in OD green to try.
Link Posted: 5/17/2001 2:43:16 AM EST
Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II works great in Matte Black. The clear coat didn't work well for me though. But I can say the Matte Black looks really good in my Armalite. I agree with an earlier poster who said that they are aluminum and don't really need finishing. I finished a few just for cosmetic appearance.
Link Posted: 5/17/2001 2:47:46 AM EST
Incidently, Aluma Hyde-II's use does not require the mag to be heated before or after finishing. Mine are still fine except for wear shown at the top of the mag due to repeatitive insertion.
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