Posted: 4/12/2005 5:51:21 PM EDT
|
I am looking to buy a pool table and wanted some suggestions. I am looking to spend around the $1500 - $2000 range. If anyone has some ideas please let me know. Thanks, BIT |
|
Figure the cost of moving and re-assembling into your price. A real slate table weighs a lot. I'm pretty sure it needs to be disassembled to be moved. And then you need to re-felt it, because disassembly involves ripping out the felt and removing the three slabs of felt that make up the bed. Part of the process is levelling the whole thing. There are usually three slabs of slate. Not only do you not want anything going downhill, you don't want ledges / speedbumps between the slabs. If you're handy, this might possibly a DIY job, but read up on building / leveling / refelting tables. Or just check with a local billiard supply store for prices for moving. Might be better. (I've got a "synthetic slab" table, which is essentially plywood and sucks.) |
|
I moved my own. It isn't that bad, two people can move each of the three pieces of slate. My wife helped me (although she wasn't too happy). I felted it myself. Hopefully the slate will have wood on the bottom to attach staples too. Glueing felt would be a flaming bitch. It was super easy to staple. Use Durhams Rock Hard Water putty to fill the seams after leveling. It is available at Ace and Homey Depot. Get the small can. I got the big can, I could go into business.......but I digress. You simply spread the putty with a little bit extra, let it set according to directions, and then shave it with a razor. A heat gun comes into play to speed drying time, also in the directions. Moving companies won't move a pool table, I asked. Bumpers are easy to cover too. A carpenters level WILL NOT get your table level, you need a precision machinist's level to do so accurately. Use a deck of cards for shims to level the three slates prior to bolting. After tightening bolts, check again, reshim, it is a process, then use the cards. Look at the beams and hardware on the table you choose. Some aren't much better than hardware store parts, others are professional tables. Olhausen, Connely, Brunswick, some AMF, and others have excellent tables in your price range. Look closely at the charts on table size and wall spacing. Stick room is everything. If all you have room for is a 7 footer, then, move your walls or get a 7 footer. I made my own light and stick rack and saved a ton of money. Also consider most 50 to 150 dollar sticks really cost about $7 and come from china. They really gouge you on the sticks, luckily I got mine wholesale. Get some good Belgian balls. Look at the newspaper adverts. When folks are in a jam to move, or find that they never really developed pool skills, they dump their tables cheap. Don't be afraid of a few dings, it will hurt less if they are already there, than if your best buddy nicks the wood on your $2K table. If you can find one of those huge FUN stores that sells entertainment products, they do volume on the tables and sell for much less than the small shops. They make their bank on install, accessories, bbq grills, knick knacks, jacuzzis, etc. I am talking hundreds and hundreds less. You may even luck out and get a floor model with dings, a discontinued one, etc. 
|
|
I don't know what is available in your price range. It has been almost a couple decades since I bought one. Here are my thoughts, since you asked: Do NOT consider smaller than 8'. Do get slate. Basket pockets cost less than tables with a ball return. The leveling, waxing, and felting are NOT tasks that you will get right the first time, if you chose to DIY. Have fun... A home table is great. DanM |
|
Get an 8' if you have room, you need at least 5 feet on all sides if you intend to never need to switch away from 57" cues. Just get basket pockets, you don't need a ball return, and they are just more expensive. 3-piece slate tables are plenty, you don't need a one piece. If you're capentry inclined and have some time, build your own. I would suggest buying pre-made legs, and trying to find used slate, then have someone come and level and felt it for you. It's not hard to build the cabinet, but you have to do it right. Building it yourself is very rewarding and fun, and it's nice to tell people that you built your own. That's how we did our newest one. |
|
If you want to DIY, check these out: www.pooltableplans.com/ www.bestbilliard.com/resources/buildtable.cfm If I were buying, I would suggest Brunswick, Olhausen, or Vitalie. Never had a house big enough for a table, myself. One tip. Think hard before putting a table in an upstairs room. |
|
Do you have a local pool hall? I do. Several of them in fact. I've toyed with the idea of getting my own table. But... Is this a vanity purchase? Do you want to play pool all day long so you can get really good and then go to the local pool hall and be "Big Man"? Most of the people that I know that have their own table get sick of it within 6 months. And they're out playing in the "hall" just to get out of the house. It gets old pretty quick and then you just have a 500lb monkey on your back. If there isn't a local club, buy 5 tables and start your own!!! Just my .02 P.S. I went out and played a couple games tonight. I'm glad I could leave it behind. 
|