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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Milling the tang slot and establishing some flat surfaces on the forging to work off of. https://i.imgur.com/QEc9wfx.jpg Filing to clean it up and match antler after fitting https://i.imgur.com/1WB3BV0.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Hhy5Yan.jpg https://i.imgur.com/3e2OsKU.jpg I bed the antler tang hold with Apoxy Sculpt for a tight repeatable fit, helps with matching the guard having the antler on and off 100 times. https://i.imgur.com/knODKMr.jpg I bent the ring again and cleaned up, tough to etch when it's real cold :D https://i.imgur.com/q5bcOSH.jpg And close to finished now. Still need to make a damascus butt cap. https://i.imgur.com/TLX4lPh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/dT2uCeH.jpg https://i.imgur.com/fSUBtFV.jpg And of course, can't make a ring guard and NOT twirl it https://i.imgur.com/GVsnP0W.gif Great looking knife and it's cool to see how you made it fit better. It's cool to see behind the curtain |
YNWA
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Sentimental things like that are the only times ill really consider using reclaimed steel for blades, so if you want to send it to me I could cut off s bit to heat treat and see. Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Originally Posted By thebeekeeper1:
Kuraki, would an old spring from a wheel disk make good steel for a knife? I have the spring that had a pig tail on top to hold the hydraulic line running to the tractor. It's about 8" long and ~2.5" thick and the spirals are probably 1/2". Good steel, being a spring? Enough to make a knife? It's from my farm so instead of tossing it into the scrap bin I'd consider having a knife made. My wife wants to go on a dog hunt for hogs and wants a 12" pig sticker. 
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Originally Posted By stimpsonjcat:
How many layers was that billet? Also, I spy, with my little eye, a repaired rhombus corner. 
https://i.imgur.com/vakYC9q.jpg
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
I'm not sure. Same as the blade, just forged down further. I rolled the billet into a round before flattening it just to see how it would turn out. Wasn't really thinking, there's no way to get that symmetrical I have trouble with the rhombus if I get too focused on the billet evenness and forget to flip it enough. Fixing those tends to add those layers that have 'rounded the corner' like your guard has. But if it was forged round it HAD to have that profile somewhere. |
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Originally Posted By Kuraki: @AeroEngineer Shooting to finish or close to finish on this Pathfinder this weekend. This is the W2 one, the guard and spacer are carbon steel that I intend to parkerize black. They'll get sculpted and fluted like how I painted the closeup picture, then I'll make a carbon steel pommel to match. The handle is framed black G10 to match the parked fittings and the scales are Himalayan goat horn. They look pretty rough now but there is magic underneath that bark. https://i.imgur.com/w0GDUUf.jpg https://i.imgur.com/wwZY6Xs.jpg https://i.imgur.com/D3b06Ni.jpg |
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Beautiful!
But damn that thumb made me wince! That goat horn is THICK! How well does it polish when you take that much off the corners? I have recently done some scrimshaw and would love to find something thicker than the camel bone I used. |
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lol what's wrong with my thumb?
I'll hopefully have pics tomorrow of what it looks like shaped and polished. I don't know how scrimshaw would work with it. It's rather soft compared to bone and marble colored dark enough I don't think there would be good contrast. |
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
lol what's wrong with my thumb? I'll hopefully have pics tomorrow of what it looks like shaped and polished. I don't know how scrimshaw would work with it. It's rather soft compared to bone and marble colored dark enough I don't think there would be good contrast. |
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Quick and dirty buff on this goat horn to give an idea how it finishes. Still work to do to clean up some file marks. Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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And I start shaping the guard. Taking just a bit off at the belt sander then switching to files and dremel. Now I've got the handle and fittings where I consider them roughed in, ill drill for alignment pins, sculpt a pommel and thread the tang and begin the tedious part of final fit up and finishing. Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:...I turn away most custom orders because having a backlog really takes the fun out of it. I started doing this for stress relief and having a book full of orders and deadlines was having the opposite effect So totally THIS!!! Customer says "I want to pay you money and you make me something" Me "How about I make something and you buy it if you like it?" Customer says "What if I don't like it?" Me "Don't buy it." I walk away from work every few months because of this. Customer "I'll pay you extra/more to do my work first." Me "No...you won't." I don't blame them, they just don't understand what making things is all about. |
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
@skipper469 both, but I turn away most custom orders because having a backlog really takes the fun out of it. I started doing this for stress relief and having a book full of orders and deadlines was having the opposite effect |
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Originally Posted By jokermann77:
Wow! I wish I had this skill! And a place to even do it. |
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
What's really cool, and makes me wish I took more pictures, is how the pattern changed the deeper I ground. It went from being really disjointed with big "X's" and hardly any swirl: https://i.imgur.com/oul0iui.jpg To swirls that flow bar to bar except the very tip where my twists got out of alignment: https://i.imgur.com/KlzpE8F.jpg I can see it now but before I'd have a hard time going from the end product to where it started |
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
This would be in your wheelhouse without power forging equipment. The bars were each 13 layer and drawn down to .625 before twisting. It's still a lot of work but 3 bars wouldn't be any more total layers than you do now. Thanks for the comments everyone! Here it is after hardening and hand sanding https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/125898/IMG_20180211_204529_313-449373.JPG |
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
I have zero luck electo etching my logo on Damascus so I've started stamping them with my name. Toyota/ Lexus Nissan / Infiniti Fimbulvetr / Gulso |
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Originally Posted By Star_Scream: Ahh I thought you were creating a second, luxury brand. Toyota/ Lexus Nissan / Infiniti Fimbulvetr / Gulso |
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Originally Posted By Star_Scream: I know. I was obsessed with a Zirc "edc" fetish toy from Koch Tools for a while. So pricey especially especially on the secondary market. I need a Nakiri. This guy makes a beautiful Nakiri in this vid, start to finish.  Knife Making: Nakiri Japanese Knife DIY |
"The Nation that makes a great distinction between its scholars and its warriors will have its thinking done by cowards and its fighting done by fools." -- Thucydides
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Kuraki et al, I was hoping someone here might be able to make sense of something that happened on my axe project today.
Here's a final pic of the axe head on the un-finished handle. 
On both sides there are a set of parallel lines. These are not grinding lines, as I never ground in that direction (the eyelet bulge prevents this anyway). When I took it out of the etchant the first time I thought I was seeing things. So I re-ground to 1000 grit and went back in. Same thing the second time. Is this bubble lines? Note that it covers both the Damascus section and the O-1 steel blade section. The blade was suspended edge up in etchant, which is what makes me wonder if it is related to that. Also the contrast is not that great between the 15N20 and the 1080, how do I get higher contrast? FYI this is my very first project using my own forged 'Damascus'. Many thanks for any and all comments. |
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Regarding etch contrast, was the entire head hardened? 15N20/10xx doesn't really start to pop in the etch until you get everything into solution and quench.
As far as the lines, I have no idea. I really can't tell from the pic and haven't had anything like that show up on me. ETA: actually, how did you clean it before you etched? Did you wipe it off with something in that direction? I've gone to washing in hot dish soapy water with a nylon brush before etching because every other way I've tried other than ammonia and a clean towel tends to leave streaks/smudges of something that inhibits the etch. |
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Regarding etch contrast, was the entire head hardened? Nope, just the blade edge was hardened for this piece ETA: actually, how did you clean it before you etched? First time was acetone, second time I tried soap and water. Did you wipe it off with something in that direction? No |
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Originally Posted By stimpsonjcat: Thanks for the comments. So I think you are saying if I harden the whole piece I will get better contrast? I have a piece I can test that with. |
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Originally Posted By Kuraki:
Yes without a doubt. You can draw it way back if you want (short of annealing), but until the carbon and nickel get into solution and quenched, they don't react with the acid the way you want them to. OK, the customer can wait for me to re-treat this and get a better product. Thanks for the info! |
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What grit are you guys finishing the steel at before etching? I have been going up to 600 grit lately. I really like the results. Also, I usually wipe the steel down with Windex and let dry before etch. I use a 50/50 mix of Ferric and distilled water. Like John said, hardened steel will etch much darker (and contrast) than annealed steel. Also, If you ever plan to do any hot blueing the hardness will affect the colors you get if you want any other color than blue/black. Hardened steel polishes much nicer too. |