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9/19/2017 7:27:10 PM
Posted: 5/25/2003 6:17:45 PM EDT
Howdee. I am currently at my folk's house and I've got a dilemna. For some unknown reason, they seem to believe that I actually know something about kitchen appliances. I told 'em that I'd ask the AR15.com appliance division for guidance! [:D] Their refrigerator/freezer is failing and needs to be repaired or replaced. They have 2 identical units. They are Sub-Zero model 2811 (built-in refrigerator/freezers) When they built their house (aprox 10-12 years ago??), my siblings and I were living with them, and it seemed like a good thing to have large food storage. Well... aprox. 2 years ago (they are all alone now -- the kids have escaped [;)]), one of them suddenly stopped cooling. I simply had my dad shut off the breaker feeding power to it (when we wired 'em up, i ran a 20 amp circuit to each of them -- there was a LONG wire run to each -- about 300' of #12/3 ---> the house is pretty large @ a little over 12,000 sq.ft) As I began typing this, I am now wondering if there's significant voltage drop, and if that could be responsible for the intermittent problems that occured with the first failed refrigerator that kept appearing from day one of the installation..?? [:\] Oh well.. back to the question(s)... The remaining Sub-Zero is now failing to keep food cold. There's a TON of frost/ice on the back wall of the Refrigerator (right-hand-side) Compartment. Also... the refrigerator temperature fluctuates from 33deg-f to over 55deg-f (measured using a fluke meter with temp probe AND a cheap-ass home depot refrigerator thermometer -- results were generally the same / +- 2 degrees) [b] - Is it worth calling in someone to repair this? (they live in north-west joyzee... kinda hard to find reliable appliance repair folks) - Are there any known issues with this make/model? - Any clue as to what the problem might be? - Is Sub-Zero a good brand? (all of the rest of their appliances are Thermador -- does it pay to get Thermador for a replacement refrig?) - If they need to be replaced, what brand/model would you recommend? - Is the 2811 still in production? What will physically fit the opening? (the depth of the wall that they are installed in is pretty shallow and so are the units themselves) - Since they are both about 10-12 years old, does it pay just to buy new ones due to better technology / energy savings / etc...? (ie: are they approaching the end of their life anyway and will we end up saving $$ on energy usage by going with new ?) [/b] [size=4] [b][red] Than You In Advance !!![/b][/red][/size=4]
Link Posted: 5/25/2003 6:29:16 PM EDT
I'm not a sub-zero expert although if i recall right they're a pretty good brand and I believe they make good commercial units also. The frost is probably where your problem is. What happens is the drain gets plugged or the defrost timer/heater quits, allowing the unit to freeze up and it just stops cooling. should be an easy fix for a tech but first check and make sure the drain on the bottom of the unit is clear. you can also get it going temporarily by defrosting the unit, it should go then long enoug to get a repair guy out there. as to the circuit length, if I were doing the circuit for the fridge and other kitchen or similar type appliances at that kind of length I'd run #10 just to avoid potential vd problems. you'll have the most problem on start for the fridge, since the compressor pulls quite a bit on inrush and if the voltage isn't there the current will go alot higher than what it should be and over time you'll have difficulty if the circuit is marginal. need to know the fla (full load amps) and the approx. size of the unit to tell for sure. although if it's been having problems since it was moved that definately could be. jj
Link Posted: 5/25/2003 8:36:36 PM EDT
Clean the evaporator coils before you do anything drastic.
Link Posted: 5/25/2003 9:07:05 PM EDT
Do you have any clue as to where they are located? (I believe they might be in the compartment above the unit -- there's a vented cover panel up there) AND... what the heck do 'ya clean them with. Thx.
Link Posted: 5/25/2003 10:52:13 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/25/2003 11:06:46 PM EDT by DrFrige]
What a coincidence. I am a Factory Authorized Sub-Zero servicer. 10-12 years old and you are asking if they are getting close to the end of their life?? I am currently working on a few Sub Zero's that are 40 years old so NO they are not getting towards end stages of life. Sub Zero IS the industry leader and replacing it with something of another brand would be a mistake. 2811 is Freezer on bottom with a refrig on top. Frost on the back wall can mean a few things. Take all the shelves and crisper shelves with crisper glass off. you will see 2 stainless screws (Phillips about 2 1/2" long) take them out and 2 grey spacers (1 1/2" long) will fall out the bottom... put them aside. Pull the back cover towards you from the bottom. Look at the frost pattern on the evaporator tube. (looks like a big 's' serpentine tube) If the frost pattern is the WHOLE length of the evaporator tube the problem is MINOR. If the Ice is just at the inlet of the evaporator (top left where the capillary tube enters the evaporator) you will need to call a servicer. Anyway if it is the whole coil frosted up, press the fan switch at the top and see if the fan runs...NOTE!!! THE COMPRESSOR FOR THE REFRIGERATOR SECTION MUST BE RUNNING!!! Fan for the refrig section will NOT RUN if the compressor is off,,,,Fan switch part # 3-06-013-0 or fan motor 4-20-017-0 REMEMBER THAT THIS UNIT HAS 2 COMPRESSORS...ONE FOR THE FREEZER AND ONE FOR THE REFRIGERATOR. If the fan runs then turn the thermostat (left side just below the light bulb) to the off position... does that turn the compressor off?? If 'no' then you have a bad cold control if 'yes... go to the next step. Part # 3-01-246-0 Take the grille off the top. you have a condenser coil up there. When was the last time it was cleaned... if more than a year... there is your problem if less than a year, your condenser may be plugged within the coils,,,,again NOT A PROBLEM. Blow out the coils with compressed air and make sure you have a lot of rags and a vaccuum to clean the mess...its going to be bad. There is also a fan motor behind that coil. if that is slow or seized you may want to replace the motor and blade... Motor part # 4-20-074-0 and blade part # 3-15-032-0. If there is a technical problem that you cannot handle. there is a company out of New York called HIGH END APPLIANCE service, It is owned by a friend of mine named Arthur...GREAT GUY. If they cant come out call Sub Zero and they will hook you up... their number is 1-800-222-7820 [b]You know what is sad?? I just rattled off the part #'s off the top of my head... I NEED A VACATION!!![/b]
Link Posted: 5/25/2003 11:01:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/25/2003 11:12:02 PM EDT by DrFrige]
OH... I forgot to add... 1...DO NOT defrost those coils with anything OTHER than a hair dryer... You puncture that coil and you are looking at $$$ 2...There is NO defrost system on the refrigerator section of this unit (no heater or timer) it uses an "off-cycle" defrost. So dont go looking for a part that doesnt exist. there is a heater and a timer but that is for the freezer only. 3. Does the door close 100%...air leaks can cause an evap coil to frost up as well. there are 2 plastic interlocking cams on the lower hinge of the refrigerator door. hold the door open about 6"...does it close by itself? If yes...cams are OK If this works...we charge $60.00 to come out and diagnose. SEND ME A CHECK!!! [;)]
Link Posted: 5/25/2003 11:09:27 PM EDT
Wow! Thank you VERY MUCH !! I'm going to go back there for dinner tomorrow. (hope they don't serve me spoiled meats [;)]) I'll be bringing my screwdriver. [:)]
Link Posted: 5/27/2003 8:40:37 PM EDT
UPDATE???
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