OFFICIAL Post NFA 3D Printing Thread (Page 6 of 6)
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Originally Posted By Blob: More brittle, less impact resistant. Can work fine depending on the application. And though it's better than PA6 about moisture and drying, it's still an issue. And it's like twice the price of PA6. It's just not worth the higher price for most use cases. |
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Originally Posted By nightrain5: Have you tried a Garolite or G10 build plate? I found that the Kingroon nylon that I've used sticks to a G10 or Garolite build plate actually fairly well. I've tried Creality PEI and textured PEI plates(I have a Creality K1 enclosed printer if anyone is curious), but had the best nylon adhesion to some generic G10 build plate I got off of Amazon. It leaves a smooth surface too. I would definitely use a gluestick on the G10 plate though. The Kingroon does like to warp some and I haven't 3D printed anything gun related with it yet, but I'm still learning. I have bought a different brand of nylon to try as well. Anyway, I recommend giving a Garolite or G10 build plate a try. https://printforgehq.com/garolite-plate-for-nylon-printing/ Originally Posted By nightrain5: Originally Posted By memsu: Well my FTN5 Rimfire Flow print failed in the last few layers (not quite to where the washer goes, but close). Print came loose off the build plate. So, I'm starting print over, but this time higher bed temp and no glue layer on the PEI. Also, at the 70C bed temp I can run chamber heater at 65C. This Nylon is impressive stuff though. I tried breaking off the molten glob of plastic to look down the bore, and couldn't break it free. Have you tried a Garolite or G10 build plate? I found that the Kingroon nylon that I've used sticks to a G10 or Garolite build plate actually fairly well. I've tried Creality PEI and textured PEI plates(I have a Creality K1 enclosed printer if anyone is curious), but had the best nylon adhesion to some generic G10 build plate I got off of Amazon. It leaves a smooth surface too. I would definitely use a gluestick on the G10 plate though. The Kingroon does like to warp some and I haven't 3D printed anything gun related with it yet, but I'm still learning. I have bought a different brand of nylon to try as well. Anyway, I recommend giving a Garolite or G10 build plate a try. https://printforgehq.com/garolite-plate-for-nylon-printing/ I've done several other prints of smaller items trying to use up this Polymaker PA6-CF. I'm ditching Polymaker's bed temp and chamber settings (much lower temps than I'm running). I'm now running 290C nozzle temp, 100C bed, 65C chamber (it gets to 75C in my insulated QIDI Plus4). Printed replacement Scarpion 22LR parts and now I'm printing some snap on M-lok rail covers that have to be printed vertical, so I'm testing if it's going to warp because there's very little contact area on the bed. All the prints printed hot have survived just fine. Granted they aren't a 160mm tall suppressor either printed at 100% infill, but I've got another roll in the dehydrator now. So, I'm gonna try printing hot and see what happens. My Sunlu PA6-CF arrived today and it definitely likes to be printed hot and doesn't have whatever modifier Polymaker has. I'm not knocking Polymaker, I just don't think my printer and it agree. Polymaker's modifiers make it easier to print in unenclosed printers. I'm excited to get my parts for the U-DIS tomorrow. It's a printed FRT that can be used with 2 stage triggers like my Larue MBT2S. The design of it doesn't require metal parts other than a 3 position safety (slightly modified). Then I can have a 3 position FRT on my guns with good triggers. I printed all the parts in PA6-CF. |
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Originally Posted By MattR: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/276423/IMG_1410_jpeg-3814071.JPG The finish quality is really, and I mean really, impressive. |
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I got my Sunlu E2 today and have a printed 22LR can annealing in it now. It is supposed to do 110C max. I hooked up my Fluke 17B+ with temperature probe and ran some tests. At 70C, 80C, and 90C it ran anywhere from 1.5C to 8C higher than the set temp. It never dropped below the set temp once it reached it. At 100C it stayed 1.1C to 3.6C above the set point. At 110C it stayed between 107C and 108C, but never actually went above 108C. IMO this is sufficient for annealing PA6-CF. Polymaker recommends 100C for 16 hours, and this dryer/annealer has no problem getting to 100C and holding temp within a few degrees. Amazon has a weird package deal on the E2 right now. The E2 is normally $300, but for some reason if you buy the E2 and a 1KG roll of Sunlu's PA6-CF you get both for $283. That's cheaper than buying the E2 alone.   Failed To Load Product Data |
I ain’t in no ways tired of winning yet!
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Question- I printed a 22 can a while back in PLA+ on m MK4s, vertical orientation. I forget the settings but most likely slow and .15 layer height with other std PLA settings. 1) why did my print not turn out as smooth and 'one piece' looking at some of these, you can see and feel each layer as if it were machined on a lathe, but not sanded sooth, not terrible though. 2) about every 1/4 inch, you can see a faint, but definite layer difference, and in one or two places very noticeable layer shift(?), I hesitate to call it a shift as it is around the circumference, not like it moved over to the left. |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: @HappyCamel Whatever you do don't go to ARTakeDownTool.com and order a Super Safety, especially the cool flat trigger design, and hit buy, they might just forget to check what state you're in. Also don't buy the freedom Finger for your TX22, that would be a shame if they forgot to check shipping addresses... Hoffman will sell the Kickers to banned states. Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Originally Posted By HappyCamel: Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Originally Posted By HappyCamel: Originally Posted By bmarshall1: How about 3d trigger kickers from PA6. I'm working to adapt one for a 9mm Extar but the issue is cutting the bolt just right as it's a blow back, being able to adjust a 3d kicker lends a whole new ability for those without metal working skills/tools. I need to find a Machinist in SW Fl. for the bolt. Once I get proof of concept working, I'll flatten a metal one. ETA: in surprised someone hasn't released a trigger kicker sticker. Slap it on some sheet metal and get to work. Single bend could be labeled with a line and an angle 3d printed work, they also break. Mine broke mainly due to the geometry of my bolt. But once the bolt is cut correctly I will see how long it lasts. I bet the part that goes under the safety will get ground down before it breaks. I like the sticker idea, unfortunately people will simply make them in quantity and undercut Hoffman. One or two for home use....meh. Setting up your own ebay shop, people will do it. Plus, like most people here, I would rather support Hoffman and keep his good ideas rolling (and fund the lawsuit against RareGreed). @HappyCamel Whatever you do don't go to ARTakeDownTool.com and order a Super Safety, especially the cool flat trigger design, and hit buy, they might just forget to check what state you're in. Also don't buy the freedom Finger for your TX22, that would be a shame if they forgot to check shipping addresses... Hoffman will sell the Kickers to banned states. No shit? God I can't wait till he releases a 3pos |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Question- I printed a 22 can a while back in PLA+ on m MK4s, vertical orientation. I forget the settings but most likely slow and .15 layer height with other std PLA settings. 1) why did my print not turn out as smooth and 'one piece' looking at some of these, you can see and feel each layer as if it were machined on a lathe, but not sanded sooth, not terrible though. 2) about every 1/4 inch, you can see a faint, but definite layer difference, and in one or two places very noticeable layer shift(?), I hesitate to call it a shift as it is around the circumference, not like it moved over to the left. 1) carbon fiber hides the layer lines due to the rougher surface texture 2) without seeing pics, it could either be translucency from the internal structure going from thin to thick, or differential shrinkage from the varying layer times. |
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Just finished printing a 22LR Pill Popper. Its a lot smaller than the FTN 22LR Flow. The Pill Popper is also a much easier print due to the baffle design. The FTN Flow designs have baffles with weird overhangs and I've had a few prints curl up where there is nothing under the overhang, resulting in the nozzle hitting those high points and ripping the print off the plate. For anyone new, I recommend to start with a Pill Popper. My first PP printed perfectly on the first try. The PP also uses about 1/3rd as much filament, so it prints faster and if you have a print fail it won't hurt as much. Attached File |
I ain’t in no ways tired of winning yet!
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Question- I printed a 22 can a while back in PLA+ on m MK4s, vertical orientation. I forget the settings but most likely slow and .15 layer height with other std PLA settings. 1) why did my print not turn out as smooth and 'one piece' looking at some of these, you can see and feel each layer as if it were machined on a lathe, but not sanded sooth, not terrible though. 2) about every 1/4 inch, you can see a faint, but definite layer difference, and in one or two places very noticeable layer shift(?), I hesitate to call it a shift as it is around the circumference, not like it moved over to the left. Filled filaments hide seams way better than regular filament. With PA6-CF I put my seam setting on random, but I'd never do that with a regular filament. For 2A stuff though it's actually a benefit as there's no weak spot when you print like that. |
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Originally Posted By HillaryClinton: Just finished printing a 22LR Pill Popper. Its a lot smaller than the FTN 22LR Flow. The Pill Popper is also a much easier print due to the baffle design. The FTN Flow designs have baffles with weird overhangs and I've had a few prints curl up where there is nothing under the overhang, resulting in the nozzle hitting those high points and ripping the print off the plate. For anyone new, I recommend to start with a Pill Popper. My first PP printed perfectly on the first try. The PP also uses about 1/3rd as much filament, so it prints faster and if you have a print fail it won't hurt as much. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/435954/1296_jpg-3815792.JPG The FTN5 Rimfire Flow probably isn't the best one to try and attempt on your first go with PA6-CF filament. I stopped my initial print after seeing it leave strands on some of the circular overhang paths, but I got that dialed in. Then my 2nd attempt was a failure and it happened in the last 10 layers or so. Had a 3rd failed print and finally success on 4th try after dialing in bed and chamber temps. Since then FTN6 Rimfire ripple texture, and now attempting FTN6K 9mm ripple texture to use up the rest of this roll of PA6-CF I have. These prints look amazing and my barrel thread adapter screwed in flawlessly. I need to order the correct thread adapters for the FTN6 now. I bought a roll of Sunlu PA6-CF and had it in the food dehydrator for 48 hours at 70C, but since I'm not going to use it for at least a week I vacuum sealed it back up using my food saver. I'll attempt a 300 Blk or rifle suppressor next. The print time scares me a little with those. |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Question- I printed a 22 can a while back in PLA+ on m MK4s, vertical orientation. I forget the settings but most likely slow and .15 layer height with other std PLA settings. 1) why did my print not turn out as smooth and 'one piece' looking at some of these, you can see and feel each layer as if it were machined on a lathe, but not sanded sooth, not terrible though. 2) about every 1/4 inch, you can see a faint, but definite layer difference, and in one or two places very noticeable layer shift(?), I hesitate to call it a shift as it is around the circumference, not like it moved over to the left. RE: 2 - If the layer difference is 8mm (~1/3rd of an inch) and repeats, one or both of your z-leadscrews might be slightly misaligned or bent. The leadscrews move the z-axis 8mm per rotation, so on a 8mm repeating pattern, that is where I would look. |
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Originally Posted By DFARM: Has anyone tried out any of the boosterless 9mm cans yet? @VacaDuck ? https://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=1&f=194&t=2835196&tl=3D-suppressors&page=8#i117432963 |
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Originally Posted By scul: @VacaDuck ? https://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=1&f=194&t=2835196&tl=3D-suppressors&page=8#i117432963 
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"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Originally Posted By scul: RE: 2 - If the layer difference is 8mm (~1/3rd of an inch) and repeats, one or both of your z-leadscrews might be slightly misaligned or bent. The leadscrews move the z-axis 8mm per rotation, so on a 8mm repeating pattern, that is where I would look. Originally Posted By scul: Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Question- I printed a 22 can a while back in PLA+ on m MK4s, vertical orientation. I forget the settings but most likely slow and .15 layer height with other std PLA settings. 1) why did my print not turn out as smooth and 'one piece' looking at some of these, you can see and feel each layer as if it were machined on a lathe, but not sanded sooth, not terrible though. 2) about every 1/4 inch, you can see a faint, but definite layer difference, and in one or two places very noticeable layer shift(?), I hesitate to call it a shift as it is around the circumference, not like it moved over to the left. RE: 2 - If the layer difference is 8mm (~1/3rd of an inch) and repeats, one or both of your z-leadscrews might be slightly misaligned or bent. The leadscrews move the z-axis 8mm per rotation, so on a 8mm repeating pattern, that is where I would look. @scul and Blob and Obsessed, thanks for the feedback. I looked REALLY close when I went to measure, and the repeating lines are artifacts from the internal geometry. This was a 'flow' can and I think I was seeing the internal vanes. but I still have some layer shift, I'll look into some more settings and calibrations. |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: @scul and Blob and Obsessed, thanks for the feedback. I looked REALLY close when I went to measure, and the repeating lines are artifacts from the internal geometry. This was a 'flow' can and I think I was seeing the internal vanes. but I still have some layer shift, I'll look into some more settings and calibrations. Sounds like it might be the "Benchy Hull Line Problem" in that case. Layer time and heat build up factor into your problem. |
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Originally Posted By DFARM: Has anyone tried out any of the boosterless 9mm cans yet? I have. I broke it in about 15 rounds but that’s kinda my fault. I think I need to dial in my heat better. Also didn’t run subs through it first. I’m currently printing another but turned up the heat and made some setting changes. |
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PA guys: contact your reps and tell them you want it on this action. https://pennsylvania.gunowners.org/08262026/ |
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Originally Posted By Amped: I have. I broke it in about 15 rounds but that’s kinda my fault. I think I need to dial in my heat better. Also didn’t run subs through it first. I’m currently printing another but turned up the heat and made some setting changes. Originally Posted By Amped: Originally Posted By DFARM: Has anyone tried out any of the boosterless 9mm cans yet? I have. I broke it in about 15 rounds but that’s kinda my fault. I think I need to dial in my heat better. Also didn’t run subs through it first. I’m currently printing another but turned up the heat and made some setting changes. I just finished a 9mm Pill Popper which is light enough to function without a booster. TBH I have my doubts with this can. IMO it is way too small for a printed 9mm can and I strongly believe it will fail quickly. I researched a bit and some users have had them fail and most posters were adamant about reintroducing moisture into the nylon to avoid it being too brittle. Some recommend letting the can absorb moisture over 2 weeks and some say this can be sped up by putting the can in a bag with wet paper towels. My plan is to anneal it at 110C for 16 hours. Then place it in a bag with wet paper towels for 48 hours (maybe until the end of a week since I can't go shooting until a weekend). Then epoxy the thread adapter on and give it 24 hours to fully cure. If the can breaks I will feel like I did everything I could do and won't print another 9mm PP. I'm printing another FTN5 Flow 9mm currently. I've hopefully fixed my overhang issue. I used a setting to recognize any overhang at 40° or higher and when recognized it will print at 10% speed. If this fails I'm ordering an enclosure. |
I ain’t in no ways tired of winning yet!
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Originally Posted By FlyingIllini: For the FTN.6 designs... I see they have Comstock FTN.6 Blackout. I suppose those take the Comstock form 1 adapter, which seem to be out of stock everywhere. Is there a printable file for an adapter to go from those 1.5x8 threads to 3/4x16 or 1-3/8x24 ? The ftn6 package includes a 3/4-16 adapter, yes |
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I ran into a problem with the new FTN6 thread adapter change. FTN5 and most other models used a 1/2x28 to 3/4x16 adapter. I could screw these into the suppressor and they were tight enough to need a wrench, but it was possible. With FTN6 using the 1/2x28 to 5/8x24 adapter I found that I could not get the adapter to thread in properly, they make it about 2 threads in and then start angling. I bought a 5/8x24 tap to fix the 3 cans that I've already printed. I solved this problem by changing one slicer setting. In Cura a positive value in "Hole Horizontal Expansion" increases the size of the hole, a negative value reduces the size of the hole. A value between .1 and .15 can usually fix threads that are too tight. I ran a test print with .1 and I was able to screw the adapter in, but it was fairly tight. I've updated to .11 and am now running another full print. I got FTN6 boosterless 9mm cans in K, regular, and XL printed. I won't be able to test those until I get the tap and can fix the threads. |
I ain’t in no ways tired of winning yet!
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Originally Posted By FlyingIllini: It seems like that adapter doesn't fit the Comstock 1.5x8 threads. I think the FTN.6 standard rifle threads must be larger than 1.5x8 ? The adapter threads are 1.55 major diameter but also have a ~76 degree threadform instead of standard 60 degree, presumably to enhance printability. |