OFFICIAL Post NFA 3D Printing Thread (Page 5 of 6)
| This is the kind of thing that keeps me having hope for our country and our ability to out innovate anyone else out there. Is there a recommendation for a design that has been tested to work well for a 5.7 pistol? Some of the .22 can notes say that they'll work with 5.7, but there are metal cans you can buy that have barrel length limits in the fine print, so I'm assuming the same holds true with these designs? |
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Originally Posted By Zoldaman: This is the kind of thing that keeps me having hope for our country and our ability to out innovate anyone else out there. Is there a recommendation for a design that has been tested to work well for a 5.7 pistol? Some of the .22 can notes say that they'll work with 5.7, but there are metal cans you can buy that have barrel length limits in the fine print, so I'm assuming the same holds true with these designs? You could try the FTN.6 Air 5.56 can. It's a minimalist rifle can that's 1.83in diameter and 7.3in long. |
Welp, PLA + in translucent isn't a great suppressor choice  Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Blob: The reason they recommend low bed temp is because they have an additive in their material to slow the crystallization of the material which reduces warpage. Using a high bed temp is basically annealing which kick starts the crystallization process. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By memsu: What brand filament you using? I'm trying to figure out if it's a Polymaker thing recommending bed temps of 40-50C for their PA6-CF. Everyone else list way higher bed temps. I have no issues printing ABS with 90C bed. The reason they recommend low bed temp is because they have an additive in their material to slow the crystallization of the material which reduces warpage. Using a high bed temp is basically annealing which kick starts the crystallization process. I stopped the print I had going on the first layer. Now have 50C bed, 290C nozzle, door cracked, and top off printer. All this determined with AI asking it questions, so we'll see how it goes. This is specifically a Polymaker thing apparently. It wanted me to try adaptive layer heights, but 95% of the print was still 0.15mm anyway and then it left the threads much thicker layers. My chamber temp was about 58C, so I guess that triggered the formula Polymaker adds to do it's thing. On my failed print it does look like the bottom warped because the part that was on the bed isn't sitting exactly level with the table. I can rock it back and forth a little. |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: 3d printed work, they also break. Mine broke mainly due to the geometry of my bolt. But once the bolt is cut correctly I will see how long it lasts. I bet the part that goes under the safety will get ground down before it breaks. I like the sticker idea, unfortunately people will simply make them in quantity and undercut Hoffman. One or two for home use....meh. Setting up your own ebay shop, people will do it. Plus, like most people here, I would rather support Hoffman and keep his good ideas rolling (and fund the lawsuit against RareGreed). Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Originally Posted By HappyCamel: Originally Posted By bmarshall1: How about 3d trigger kickers from PA6. I'm working to adapt one for a 9mm Extar but the issue is cutting the bolt just right as it's a blow back, being able to adjust a 3d kicker lends a whole new ability for those without metal working skills/tools. I need to find a Machinist in SW Fl. for the bolt. Once I get proof of concept working, I'll flatten a metal one. ETA: in surprised someone hasn't released a trigger kicker sticker. Slap it on some sheet metal and get to work. Single bend could be labeled with a line and an angle 3d printed work, they also break. Mine broke mainly due to the geometry of my bolt. But once the bolt is cut correctly I will see how long it lasts. I bet the part that goes under the safety will get ground down before it breaks. I like the sticker idea, unfortunately people will simply make them in quantity and undercut Hoffman. One or two for home use....meh. Setting up your own ebay shop, people will do it. Plus, like most people here, I would rather support Hoffman and keep his good ideas rolling (and fund the lawsuit against RareGreed). |
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Originally Posted By Amped: Welp, PLA + in translucent isn't a great suppressor choice https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/179056/IMG_2178_jpg-3813147.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/179056/IMG_2176_jpg-3813148.JPG I’m not questioning your print quality, but this video from CNC Kitchen is how to get clearer = stronger translucent prints. He’s using a different filament but the concepts are the same https://youtu.be/9qb25Gi4Jv0?is=7z5jjs-UQAHT1IVs |
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Originally Posted By Amped: Welp, PLA + in translucent isn't a great suppressor choice https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/179056/IMG_2178_jpg-3813147.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/179056/IMG_2176_jpg-3813148.JPG Ray Charles could've seen this coming. |
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Originally Posted By Amped: I’ve got a 22 can printed in PA6-CF and since then, none of my prints want to play nice 😞. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/179056/IMG_1953_jpeg-3812357.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/179056/IMG_2112_jpeg-3812358.JPG I always have issues after I print any kind of CF filament, i'd say you have a partial clog in the nozzle. Change the nozzle. |
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All right guys....printed lots of stuff out but never a suppresser.... Have a 3 lug on my fake MP5. Plan is to get this: 3 Lug and something like this: Tube Thread it onto the 3 lug mount (Should be 1.375x24 TPI, correct?), print the guts of the suppresser, slide it into the tube, and secure it with an endcap....or possibly, have the end of the 3D printed stack to be threaded, so it screws into the end of the tube. Good plan? Bad plan? Will it work? Thanks, AoD |
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Originally Posted By apierce918: i had to order more filament, i dont think i have enough on my spool to complete another can, and i want the next spool already in the dryer when i switch I'm going to print some Hoffman tactical AR lower reinforcement pieces with the little bit I have left on my roll if my FTN5 Rimfire survives to the end of this print. If I still have some left I'll print components for the U-DIS FRT trigger pack that works with my Larue MBT 2 stage trigger. |
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Looking at the corexy Bambu stuff, some of them get pretty pricy, around $2k. Just for shits and grins, how are hobbyist metal printers coming along? I'd think those might be more relevant for those that are neck deep in the hobby. I could see a market for leasing the more portable machines out for a few weeks at a time. |
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Originally Posted By rb889: Looking at the corexy Bambu stuff, some of them get pretty pricy, around $2k. Just for shits and grins, how are hobbyist metal printers coming along? I'd think those might be more relevant for those that are neck deep in the hobby. I could see a market for leasing the more portable machines out for a few weeks at a time. Scraplabs is coming out with an inexpensive one ($10-15k iirc) but metal printers come with some pretty strong hazards like explosive atmosphere and powder inhalation risks, so they're not really something you want to just put in your basement. |
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Originally Posted By rb889: Looking at the corexy Bambu stuff, some of them get pretty pricy, around $2k. Just for shits and grins, how are hobbyist metal printers coming along? I'd think those might be more relevant for those that are neck deep in the hobby. I could see a market for leasing the more portable machines out for a few weeks at a time. In my opinion the Bambu X2D is the best priced printer in the market right now. It's a small price increase over the P2S, but you get so many more useful features. The dual nozzles are great for functional prints because you can have zero support interface and print support material in the second nozzle giving you really good overhang performance. Not to mention if you do any multicolor printing it will speed that up as well. It has a chamber heater now as well, which really helps with ABS/ASA prints. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: Scraplabs is coming out with an inexpensive one ($10-15k iirc) but metal printers come with some pretty strong hazards like explosive atmosphere and powder inhalation risks, so they're not really something you want to just put in your basement. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By rb889: Looking at the corexy Bambu stuff, some of them get pretty pricy, around $2k. Just for shits and grins, how are hobbyist metal printers coming along? I'd think those might be more relevant for those that are neck deep in the hobby. I could see a market for leasing the more portable machines out for a few weeks at a time. Scraplabs is coming out with an inexpensive one ($10-15k iirc) but metal printers come with some pretty strong hazards like explosive atmosphere and powder inhalation risks, so they're not really something you want to just put in your basement. I was thinking garage with an exhaust fan. For the scraplabs, power needs look pretty flexible, 100-240v single phase, 500w max, so under 5 amp, any outlet on a dedicated circuit should do. It looks like a really cool setup, ready built ones for $18k isn't too hateful. Wouldn't be too hard for a particularly entrepreneurial spirit to recoup their investment within a year. Maybe less. Only standout issue is the files, since it's a yet to be released device... Assuming scraplabs isn't run by cucks that load the thing with nanny software or spyware. |
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Originally Posted By rb889: I was thinking garage with an exhaust fan. For the scraplabs, power needs look pretty flexible, 100-240v single phase, 500w max, so under 5 amp, any outlet on a dedicated circuit should do. It looks like a really cool setup, ready built ones for $18k isn't too hateful. Wouldn't be too hard for a particularly entrepreneurial spirit to recoup their investment within a year. Maybe less. Only standout issue is the files, since it's a yet to be released device... Assuming scraplabs isn't run by cucks that load the thing with nanny software or spyware. I would love to have one. But really, you need to do your homework before seriously considering one. Special ventilation and filtration requirements, inert atmosphere, power, and secondary machining operations to remove the parts from the build plate and recondition the plate afterwards. Metal printing is a whole different ballgame. |
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Originally Posted By Blob: I would love to have one. But really, you need to do your homework before seriously considering one. Special ventilation and filtration requirements, inert atmosphere, power, and secondary machining operations to remove the parts from the build plate and recondition the plate afterwards. Metal printing is a whole different ballgame. Originally Posted By Blob: Originally Posted By rb889: I was thinking garage with an exhaust fan. For the scraplabs, power needs look pretty flexible, 100-240v single phase, 500w max, so under 5 amp, any outlet on a dedicated circuit should do. It looks like a really cool setup, ready built ones for $18k isn't too hateful. Wouldn't be too hard for a particularly entrepreneurial spirit to recoup their investment within a year. Maybe less. Only standout issue is the files, since it's a yet to be released device... Assuming scraplabs isn't run by cucks that load the thing with nanny software or spyware. I would love to have one. But really, you need to do your homework before seriously considering one. Special ventilation and filtration requirements, inert atmosphere, power, and secondary machining operations to remove the parts from the build plate and recondition the plate afterwards. Metal printing is a whole different ballgame. Appreciate the heads up. It'd be my first foray into 3D printing, so no reason not to jump into the deep end, lol. By the time I've got the scratch to spare, I'll have plenty of time to dig into whether or not it's worthwhile, along with figuring out the specifics of the scraplabs. |
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Originally Posted By Smokehouse_83: Yep the medium sized Vevor fruit dehydrator goes up to 195* and has a 24 hour timer. Stick of 3/4 copper with slits cut in it slid into the racks holds 3 1kg rolls. Drill a hole in the back and screw in a quick connect Bowden tube fitting. Can you post a picture of this setup? I'm interested. |
"Three, two, one, keyturn."
"If there must be trouble let it be in my day, that my child may have peace." - Thomas Paine
I know the voices aren't real, but MAN do they have some good ideas!
"If there must be trouble let it be in my day, that my child may have peace." - Thomas Paine
I know the voices aren't real, but MAN do they have some good ideas!
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Originally Posted By KELBEAST: I’m not questioning your print quality, but this video from CNC Kitchen is how to get clearer = stronger translucent prints. He’s using a different filament but the concepts are the same https://youtu.be/9qb25Gi4Jv0?is=7z5jjs-UQAHT1IVs Oh im still new to this 3d printing game. I'm off to watch that! |
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FTN.5 rimfire Ripple in PET-GF. 3/4-16 thread pitch because it’s what I have aluminum adapters in, and a thread tap to chase the printed threads. Took it out to the back yard, it’s quiet. Very quiet. Getting ahead of the curve on the resurgence of the I Am Legend tub pics 
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Originally Posted By AoD: All right guys....printed lots of stuff out but never a suppresser.... Have a 3 lug on my fake MP5. Plan is to get this: 3 Lug and something like this: Tube Thread it onto the 3 lug mount (Should be 1.375x24 TPI, correct?), print the guts of the suppresser, slide it into the tube, and secure it with an endcap....or possibly, have the end of the 3D printed stack to be threaded, so it screws into the end of the tube. Good plan? Bad plan? Will it work? Thanks, AoD Bump, Plus hoping someone can help me out.... Thanks, AoD |
The voices in my head say I’m just being paranoid
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Don’t have a dryer hot enough for PA6-GF yet so thought I’d experiment with ABS. Printed two cans with different settings for each, they held up fine on my 10/22. Both failed catastrophically on my PPK/S. Not entirely unexpected.
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If you aren't representing Jesus in a way that makes people want to hang out with you, you're doing it wrong.
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Originally Posted By D_Man: Sunlu E2 is the expensive yet easy option. They do go on sale now and then. Originally Posted By D_Man: Originally Posted By BigAJ: Recommendations for a dryer that goes up to 100C ? They do go on sale now and then. I've got one arriving tomorrow. I have the S4 which goes to 70C and works good for drying spools, but I wanted the E2 for annealing. Plus when I'm not annealing I can use it to dry new spools faster. Most filament dryers seem to max out at 85C. The E2 is the only one I know of that gets to 110C. |
I ain’t in no ways tired of winning yet!
How it started and how it’s going. FTN.5 rimfire slim hex. Woke up this morning, chased the threads, slid a .25 rod down the bore, mounted the adapter and the can, snapped some pics, went outside. First shot, it’s quiet. It’s good. Second shot, disaster. I printed it at 300 (machine’s max) so now I’m reprinting it sloooooow to see if that helps.     
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Originally Posted By KELBEAST: How it started and how it’s going. FTN.5 rimfire slim hex. Woke up this morning, chased the threads, slid a .25 rod down the bore, mounted the adapter and the can, snapped some pics, went outside. First shot, it’s quiet. It’s good. Second shot, disaster. I printed it at 300 (machine’s max) so now I’m reprinting it sloooooow to see if that helps. https://i.ibb.co/chNDPpGj/IMG-5985.png https://i.ibb.co/N26ZwmqZ/IMG-5988.jpg https://i.ibb.co/v4t13tjw/IMG-5989.jpg https://i.ibb.co/6JZPN4vM/IMG-5991.jpg https://i.ibb.co/TqkKsn4W/IMG-5992.jpg What material? What was the original print speed? Did you anneal? Did you moisture condition? |
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This is what I've been thinking about since this thread started. How many of you are annealing your prints? If so, what are you using and temps? I'm thinking about using a portable welding rod oven for the final product. I have seen some videos where the guy tests CA6-CF and CA12-CF right out of the print, soaked and dried (not necessarily annealed, that I could remember) and it seemed that he got the best results right off the printer. Either way, it'd be nice to have a side by side comparison of right off the printer vs annealed to see if there is any difference in end quality. |
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Originally Posted By seattleducati: This is what I've been thinking about since this thread started. How many of you are annealing your prints? If so, what are you using and temps? I'm thinking about using a portable welding rod oven for the final product. I have seen some videos where the guy tests CA6-CF and CA12-CF right out of the print, soaked and dried (not necessarily annealed, that I could remember) and it seemed that he got the best results right off the printer. Either way, it'd be nice to have a side by side comparison of right off the printer vs annealed to see if there is any difference in end quality. Annealing is critical for suppressors. You're leaving tons of performance on the table if you don't do it. I anneal all my PA6 gun parts. There's not really any reason not to other than laziness. PA6 is a semi crystalline polymer, and without annealing then maximum crystallization does not occur which means less heat resistance and interlayer adhesion, and without moisture conditioning then far less impact resistance. |
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Originally Posted By KELBEAST: PET-GF @300 degrees, 300 mm/s. No annealing Also, in general for these high temp filaments, you're printing way too fast and will get poor layer adhesion as a result. I usually print at 45mm/s for PET, Nylons, etc. |
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Originally Posted By KELBEAST: PET-GF @300 degrees, 300 mm/s. No annealing Oof Originally Posted By D_Man: PET probably isn't the best option for this. It's too stiff, which is good for things like mags and mag extensions where you need the lips to stay rigid under spring loading, but under impact forces like in a can, it'll be prone to shatter. Nylons have some give and can handle impact forces better. You probably could get PET to work on something like a .22 can, but I'd want to overbuild the design a bit. Also, in general for these high temp filaments, you're printing way too fast and will get poor layer adhesion as a result. I usually print at 45mm/s for PET, Nylons, etc. This. I print at 30mm/s |
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Just realized I need at least one threaded 1911 barrel. At least I can print the suppressors before I figure out the barrel. |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Originally Posted By Smokehouse_83: I don’t use image hosting. I posted pictures in this Reddit thread though. https://www.reddit.com/r/3D2A/s/gKg7I2q7Jn I got ya Attached File Attached File |
| What is the consensus on engraving? PA6-CF is in the dryer and I’m about ready to get started on my first suppressor print. So, does no form 1 mean no engraving requirement? If you are engraving, how and where are you putting it? |
When hell is full, the dead will walk the earth.
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Originally Posted By baker01515: What is the consensus on engraving? PA6-CF is in the dryer and I'm about ready to get started on my first suppressor print. So, does no form 1 mean no engraving requirement? If you are engraving, how and where are you putting it? |
"Fully-loaded, safety off. This here is a recipe for unpleasantness." - Malcom Reynolds
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
"He's a precision-guided asshole who only deploys on deserving targets." - Grok
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Originally Posted By Smokehouse_83: I don’t use image hosting. I posted pictures in this Reddit thread though. https://www.reddit.com/r/3D2A/s/gKg7I2q7Jn That is one of those "stupidly simple genius" ideas. Thanks, off to Amazon. |
"Three, two, one, keyturn."
"If there must be trouble let it be in my day, that my child may have peace." - Thomas Paine
I know the voices aren't real, but MAN do they have some good ideas!
"If there must be trouble let it be in my day, that my child may have peace." - Thomas Paine
I know the voices aren't real, but MAN do they have some good ideas!
|
Originally Posted By HappyCamel: The issue is most SS won't ship to many states. A sticker is a sticker. It's not about undercutting Hoffman- unless he wants to sell stickers. Originally Posted By HappyCamel: Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Originally Posted By HappyCamel: Originally Posted By bmarshall1: How about 3d trigger kickers from PA6. I'm working to adapt one for a 9mm Extar but the issue is cutting the bolt just right as it's a blow back, being able to adjust a 3d kicker lends a whole new ability for those without metal working skills/tools. I need to find a Machinist in SW Fl. for the bolt. Once I get proof of concept working, I'll flatten a metal one. ETA: in surprised someone hasn't released a trigger kicker sticker. Slap it on some sheet metal and get to work. Single bend could be labeled with a line and an angle 3d printed work, they also break. Mine broke mainly due to the geometry of my bolt. But once the bolt is cut correctly I will see how long it lasts. I bet the part that goes under the safety will get ground down before it breaks. I like the sticker idea, unfortunately people will simply make them in quantity and undercut Hoffman. One or two for home use....meh. Setting up your own ebay shop, people will do it. Plus, like most people here, I would rather support Hoffman and keep his good ideas rolling (and fund the lawsuit against RareGreed). @HappyCamel Whatever you do don't go to ARTakeDownTool.com and order a Super Safety, especially the cool flat trigger design, and hit buy, they might just forget to check what state you're in. Also don't buy the freedom Finger for your TX22, that would be a shame if they forgot to check shipping addresses... Hoffman will sell the Kickers to banned states. |
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Originally Posted By memsu: Well my FTN5 Rimfire Flow print failed in the last few layers (not quite to where the washer goes, but close). Print came loose off the build plate. So, I'm starting print over, but this time higher bed temp and no glue layer on the PEI. Also, at the 70C bed temp I can run chamber heater at 65C. This Nylon is impressive stuff though. I tried breaking off the molten glob of plastic to look down the bore, and couldn't break it free. Have you tried a Garolite or G10 build plate? I found that the Kingroon nylon that I've used sticks to a G10 or Garolite build plate actually fairly well. I've tried Creality PEI and textured PEI plates(I have a Creality K1 enclosed printer if anyone is curious), but had the best nylon adhesion to some generic G10 build plate I got off of Amazon. It leaves a smooth surface too. I would definitely use a gluestick on the G10 plate though. The Kingroon does like to warp some and I haven't 3D printed anything gun related with it yet, but I'm still learning. I have bought a different brand of nylon to try as well. Anyway, I recommend giving a Garolite or G10 build plate a try. https://printforgehq.com/garolite-plate-for-nylon-printing/ |
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OST tag for education. I got a Bambu P1S about a week ago. Printing toys for the kids in PLA fine. Printed some PEGT-CF this morning that failed quickly I think I know why though, didn't change any settings after installing the .6 nozzle. Will re-try soon. Got PLA plus arriving tomorrow to try some more fun things. Also have some PA6-CF waiting for when I get a bit better. |
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Originally Posted By jafrush: OST tag for education. I got a Bambu P1S about a week ago. Printing toys for the kids in PLA fine. Printed some PEGT-CF this morning that failed quickly I think I know why though, didn't change any settings after installing the .6 nozzle. Will re-try soon. Got PLA plus arriving tomorrow to try some more fun things. Also have some PA6-CF waiting for when I get a bit better. https://www.ar15.com/forums/General/3D2A-FAQ/194-2834269/ |
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Has anyone tried PA12-CF? Haven't done any prints yet, but it seems like it might be a good fit, it has lower temps needed and is much less hygroscopic and has more dimensional stability than PA6-GF, while not quite as strong still way more than most other filaments. |
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Originally Posted By seek2: Has anyone tried PA12-CF? Haven't done any prints yet, but it seems like it might be a good fit, it has lower temps needed and is much less hygroscopic and has more dimensional stability than PA6-GF, while not quite as strong still way more than most other filaments. More brittle, less impact resistant. Can work fine depending on the application. |
OFFICIAL Post NFA 3D Printing Thread (Page 5 of 6)
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