Posted: 2/18/2004 7:04:45 AM EDT
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I'm getting one of the Troy Industry rail forends delivered Friday. I'd like to be able to install it over the weekend but need tools to do it. Specifically I need a barrel block (or upper receiver block?) and a barrel wrench. The barrel wrench is easy. I've found armorers wrenches for $35. But what do you recommend for the barrel block? I need advice on the specific tools as well as what vendors stock this item. I need to purchase one today if there are any hopes of me getting it Friday. Thanks, Corey |
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Quoted: [url]www.adcofirearms.com[/url] Okay, I talked to Steve (nice guy) and he said Adco didn't stock those parts. He also said, "to be honest, you'll get those parts cheapest and fastest through Brownells." So, out of the the options at Brownells I see: - DPMS upper receiver block for $49 [url]http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=17094&title=Upper+Receiver+Block[/url] - Brownells/Peace River receiver action block for $43 [url]http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=9813&title=AR-15%2fM16+RECEIVER+ACTION+BLOCK[/url] - DPMS receiver flipper block for $34 [url]http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=19911&title=AR-15%2fM16+FLIPPER+VISE+BLOCK[/url] - EGW aluminum receiver block for $22 [url]http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=16921&title=AR-15%2fAR-10+UPPER+RECEIVER+BLOCK[/url] Again, I'm also considering the $12 aluminum barrel block from The Armory (see link above). Would either the $12 aluminum barrel block or $22 EGW aluminum receiver block work for this project? I don't know if you need to grip the barrel or receiver. I also don't know if the receiver front and rear pivot lugs are strong enough to take the torque in the EGW receiver block. Any help or advise would be appreciated. Thanks, Corey |
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Here are Bushmasters offerings: $14 aluminum barrel block (looks like the one sold at The Armory). [url]http://www.bushmaster.com/shopping/gunsmith/amer-001.asp[/url] $29 extra heavy armorers wrench. [url]http://www.bushmaster.com/shopping/gunsmith/223-wrench.asp[/url] |
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I've used both the barrel blocks and the receiver blocks. If the barrel is not on very tight the barrel blocks work okay, but if it's on there really good the barrel blocks will just slip. For removing the barrel your best bet would be a full receiver block like the Peace River Unit. I have one just like it (got it from Bushmaster) and it's pretty much what I use to remove all my barrels now. You can also us it to install the barrel too, but remember to be very gentle and use a generous amount of moly grease. If you torque on it too much you can bend the indexing pin on the barrel which will make your sights way off. The EGW might work just fine, but I would also be scared to put that much torque on just the front pivot hole. I also saw someone rig an ingenious home build receiver block. He took a strong piece of board and cut two small holes in it for so the upper would set flat on the board (pivot hole nubs go in the holes). Then, I believe he put some cloth on the upper to protect the finish (I do this with the receiver block also) and put a board on top of the flattop receiver and sandwiched the upper down tight with a large C-clamp then he clamped it to a table and installed the barrel. Seemed like it worked pretty good. |
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Argh!!!! I just got the following email from Troy Industries: We are in production right now on the MRF Hand guards. They will be first come first serve and [red]delivery is scheduled for March 22nd, 2004[/red] What we showed at SHOT?04 were two prototypes as our extrusions and patent info only arrived 4 days prior to the show. Here is where they differ in production; 1) The top rail is perfectly aligned and is the same dimensions as the factory flat top 2) [red]The MRF uses the original barrel nut to attack to so the user can simply remove his/her delta ring assembly with a dremmel or bolt cutters and then directly apply the hand guard without removing the front sight.[/red] 3) They are available in all three lengths 4) The bottom retaining collar is now made of steel and no hardware is exposed 5) The rail system follows the MIL-STD-1913 published at Picatiny Arsenal and is dimensionally correct to RIS/RAS standards. 6) The lower hand guard interface appears thin but is actually quite robust as it extends the length of the hand guard. To appease the masses however we will be leaving more material in place and the guard will be skip slotted similar to the sir system hand guard attachment in reverse. 7) The grooves on the interior and exterior of the guard are for cooling. The inside disrupts the flow of hot air and causes turbulence; the outside provides more radial surface area for cooling. 8) The MRF accepts legacy mounted M203's 9) The take down is a stainless spring-loaded detent, which is captured in the lower hand guard by a stainless insert to prevent, wear (response to wyv3rn). 10) For reiteration the lower rail detaches for barrel maintenance and cleaning. 11) The mounting rails are thicker than RIS/RAS (response to KevinB) 12) The hand guard is the strongest user applied free-floating M1913-STD Spec. hand guard available today. Let me know what you need, Best regards, Cheryl Westcott Troy Industries, Inc. 413-243-9315 P 413-243-9316 F Corey EDITED to add that this topic can now slip off into oblivion.... (And thanks to Ridge and others for the detailed info.) |