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Posted: 12/30/2006 12:44:06 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/30/2006 12:58:38 PM EST by kill-9]
I run Mobil One 5W-30, changed every 5,000 miles. You? Do you use a special filter?
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 12:47:05 PM EST
Ummm, castrol gt40 or someting.. Changed like 2 years ago. Last checked, oil was still clean.
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 12:48:10 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/30/2006 12:48:53 PM EST by kill-9]

Originally Posted By FieroLoki:
Ummm, castrol gt40 or someting.. Changed like 2 years ago. Last checked, oil was still clean.


I should add some detail... My truck is NOT leased. It's paid for and I intend to keep it.
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 12:54:27 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/30/2006 12:55:56 PM EST by Snerdly]
Check out this site : bobistheoilguy.com Go to the Forums section .
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 12:56:49 PM EST
I use Mobil 1 5w30 also but change every 3000 miles. It usually takes me 4-5 months to make the mileage though.
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 12:58:14 PM EST
walmart synthetic 10w30 every 2k or so in 1989 cadi deville
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 1:02:06 PM EST
I use what ever oil we have in stock.. Same with the filters..

While some newer cars call for full syn. oil I would not run it in anything that has been running normal oil. Not worth it... The ONLY reason I would run a full syn. oil is for a turbo charge motor. A turbo will break down oil quickly do to the excess heat the oil comes in contact with to lube the turbo bearings..

There are a few reasons for this. First is cost. The stuff is almost twice the cost of regular oil with no real added benefits. An older more worn motor will burn MORE oil with a syn. oil. The Syn. oil is a smaller molecule the regular. This will allow more to blow by the rings.

While there is no real problem with mixing the two again no real benefit from it.

Pretty much motor oil is motor oil, independint test have showen almost no differance betwwen high priced oils and wally-world brands...

As for weights.. We get people all the Fuking time.. "Do you have 15w-30?" ... "Nope we have 5w-30".. "well then I don't want it!!!"

Give me a fuking break.. Your car is not going to know the differance and you are sure as hell never going to fell it. Yes older more worn motors it may be a good idea to run a 20w-40 to keep blowby down, for your normal car just use what they have.

Filters... Don't waste your money on K&N or other high-end filters.. Tests have showen that most auto parts store basic filters work better.. One of the best filters on the market is Napa Gold. Just another way to take money from a fool...

I change my oil and filter around every 3,000 miles.. SOme people go 5,000.. Ok, most likely no problems from that.. You will see recomended oil change intervals for different kinds of driveing conditions.. 99.9999% OF CARS NOWDAYS FALL UNDER EXTREAM CONDITIONS. Quick trips to the corner and back are just about the worst thing you can do to a car.. The motor never has time to heat up to Op temp. Traffic is horrable for your motor... Stop and Go hurts too!!!
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 1:10:27 PM EST
Mobil 1 0w40. Filter is one of the following: Mobil 1 M1-204 (oversized in this application) or the Wix equivalent.

Change interval currently at 10,000 miles. (Oil life and contamination levels confirmed by periodic oil analysis.)


I have spent a while gradually increasing my change interval while doing oil analyses to see when it begins to approach "end of life". I suspect I will get to 12,000 miles or so before seeing a significant degradation of the additive package or contamination of the oil.

www.bobistheoilguy.com

Jim
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 1:21:11 PM EST

Originally Posted By NwG:
I use what ever oil we have in stock.. Same with the filters..

While some newer cars call for full syn. oil I would not run it in anything that has been running normal oil. Not worth it... There are a few reasons for this. First is cost. The stuff is almost twice the cost of regular oil with no real added benefits.


Virtually no wear, zero deposits, and a 10,000 mile oil change interval (rather than the 5000 interval with non-synthetics) make synthetic at worst a dead-even expense for me. I have no way of verifying that my particular car would have more wear if it had run conventional oil instead of synthetic its whole life, but all I know is that at 112,000 miles, there are no signs of any significant wear, either from the oil analyses or from testing the leakdown rate.


As for weights.. We get people all the Fuking time.. "Do you have 15w-30?" ... "Nope we have 5w-30".. "well then I don't want it!!!"

Give me a fuking break.. Your car is not going to know the differance and you are sure as hell never going to fell it.


Or, they may have a very good reason to do so. The engine in my car has the OEM valve train, and the cam followers are known to have a weakness when subjected to high RPM with foamed oil. With the stock lash adjusters and cam followers, the foam oil can lead to valve train hammering, which then fractures the end of the cam follower and disassembles the valve keeper hardware.

Until I change the adjusters and followers to the revised style, I am advised by competent engineers with whom I am acquainted that running a slightly thicker oil has been proven to reduce incidence of this type of damage. These engineers typically run M1 15w50 in environments where the failure is likely to occur. As a compromise for winter driving and for my somewhat less high-stress typical driving environment, I choose the M1 0w40.


One of the best filters on the market is Napa Gold.


I have seen this too. I usually use M1 or Wix, but I think that Napa Gold is up there with Wix. Possibly the same manufacturer.

Jim
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 1:25:10 PM EST
I get it changed every 3-5k miles but I don't go over 5k. I just use whatever oil and filter they give me. It still looks good when they drain it, so I doubt it really makes a difference. I always go over the date printed on the sticker, I figure that the shit has been in the ground for millions of years and it ain't gonna go bad in a few months.
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 1:27:49 PM EST

Originally Posted By Snerdly:
Check out this site : bobistheoilguy.com Go to the Forums section .


+1 more than you ever wanted to know about oil!
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 1:39:19 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/30/2006 1:39:36 PM EST by OLY-M4gery]

Originally Posted By JedYonkers:
walmart synthetic 10w30 every 2k or so in 1989 cadi deville


Why??

You are wasting perfectly good oil.
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 1:42:30 PM EST
Plain ol' yellow-bottle Pennzoil every 5k miles. AC PF46 filter.
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 1:50:22 PM EST
Valvoline 10w30 SYN. Change it every five to seven thousand.
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 1:53:52 PM EST
Mobil 1 10W-30 with Mobil 1 filter. Change it every 3,000 miles, or every 4 months, whichever comes sooner (usually about the same time anyway). My car is a 2006 WRX and I started her on Mobil 1 at 3,000 though I did change the oil and filter at 1,000.


Call it throwing money away if you want, but I drive my car hard and given the turbocharger an extra $50 a year in oil and filter is cheap insurance to me. I'm at a little over 5,000 miles and soon will be switching the differential fluid to Mobil 1 synthetic, as well as switching the transmission's fluid to synthetic, though I haven't yet decided on what to use in there.
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 1:56:23 PM EST
If you are going to be a fanatic don't half-ass it!. I run Royal Purple Racing in everything. Even my lawnmower.
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 2:14:26 PM EST
AMSOIL synthetic.........the only oil i will put in my cars.
Link Posted: 12/30/2006 2:15:36 PM EST
Motorcraft 5W20 synthetic blend and a Motorcraft FL-820S filter. Service every 3K miles.
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