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Posted: 10/3/2004 6:16:35 AM EST
[Last Edit: 10/11/2004 7:53:45 AM EST by fizassist]
Ok, let's get this out of the way first: I'm dumb. We don't have to argue that point.

I was replacing the dial lock on my gun safe with an electronic one when, out of habit, I closed the door and spun the handle. Naturally, without the lock in place, the relock plunger did its job. So here I am: A safe with no lock but the relock plunger engaged. There is a 3/8" hole where the dial spindle went. I have questions.

(1) If I call a locksmith, will he have to drill the safe to disable the relock? Or does he have some super-secret tool to manipulate it through the spindle hole?

(2) If there is such a super-secret tool, could somebody email me with details?

Thanks for any help, folks. If the locksmith is going to cut on the safe, anyway, I'll probably just drill it myself. All I have to do is push the plunger up and I'm good to go.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 6:24:57 AM EST
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 6:41:35 AM EST

Originally Posted By cmjohnson:
You could pour a LOT of TANNERITE in through the hole, you realize!



That's a....novel....solution.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 7:01:41 AM EST
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 7:02:47 AM EST

Originally Posted By cmjohnson:
Try contacting the manufacturer.


first thing i would try.


tagged too
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 2:36:38 PM EST
So here I am, eyeballing my safe and sitting on four 50 lb bags of Ammonium Nitrate....
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 2:37:57 PM EST
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 2:38:02 PM EST

Originally Posted By brasspile:
I gotta see how this turns out.

Link Posted: 10/3/2004 2:43:08 PM EST
We are at work now. Long distance safe cracking in progress
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 2:47:59 PM EST
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 2:49:04 PM EST
If the relock plunger is steel, you might be able to use a magnet on a string or a rod to catch it and pull it up.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 2:51:28 PM EST

Originally Posted By fizassist:
So here I am, eyeballing my safe and sitting on four 50 lb bags of Ammonium Nitrate....




Sensitized with aluminum powder or nitromethane, you'll need less than a quarter bag.





Link Posted: 10/3/2004 2:56:13 PM EST
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 2:58:43 PM EST
oh boy. here we go.


I want to see the end of this one.



Take some pics!!!
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 3:01:24 PM EST

Originally Posted By cmjohnson:
Try contacting the manufacturer. They might be able to inform you as to your options. Ideally, one's non-destructive.

You could pour a LOT of TANNERITE in through the hole, you realize!

CJ



Great, his next post will be that he still can't open the door, but blew the back of the safe off..........
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 3:01:46 PM EST
I'm not the sharpest tool either, but can you fit your old dial back on and unlock it? I know it's probably a stupid question but....
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 3:05:00 PM EST
, sorry, but dang I know how you feel...

Locked keys in truck one time, ONE TIME, I now carry 2 full sets of keys on my person at all time.....

Never again..........
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 3:05:49 PM EST
Tagged
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 3:05:54 PM EST
Too words:



Cutting Torch

Link Posted: 10/3/2004 3:06:31 PM EST
tagged
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 3:25:10 PM EST
Actually, the purpose of a relocker is to prevent someone who removed the lock from getting into the safe. So I kinda doubt it’s going to be easy to defeat.

I doubt this will help, but - some really cheap safes with relockers don’t have springs. Rather, the relocker works strictly from gravity.

In those instances the safe can be opened by rotating the entire safe upside down, causing the relocker to unlock.

OTOH, if it’s a decent safe, it might even have a hardened steel plate protecting the relocker.

You might want to contact the manufacturer for help.

Good luck!!
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 3:25:49 PM EST
So there I was with a dremel and a 1/8" carbide end mill....
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 3:26:57 PM EST
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 3:29:08 PM EST
So there I was with a 1/8" hole in my safe door...

I can feel the relock bar (spring loaded)...
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 3:29:34 PM EST
I actually locked my combination IN the safe before I memorized it. I just walked around with an IDIOT stamp on my forhead all day. I contacted the company and after determining I was the owner they gave me the combination. Hopefully they could help you in your situation. Take care and good luck.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 3:37:38 PM EST

Originally Posted By coondog:
I actually locked my combination IN the safe before I memorized it. I just walked around with an IDIOT stamp on my forhead all day. I contacted the company and after determining I was the owner they gave me the combination. Hopefully they could help you in your situation. Take care and good luck.



Nope, the lock is completely removed from the safe (sitting on top of it right now). The relocker is designed to lock the safe if somebody punches out the lock assembly.

I found out the hard way that this safe has 1/2" of steel in front of the relocker.

I also found out that I drilled just above the main cross-bar that controls the locking lugs...I had hoped to get under it so I could push the relocker up. The relocker is pretty hefty, so I don't think I can drill through the whole thing.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 3:57:50 PM EST

Originally Posted By mtechgunman:
Too words:
Cutting Torch



a Cutting Torch wont cut through Alot of safes wont even melt the metal you Need a plasma cutter
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 4:03:54 PM EST
Uhhh did you get any documentation with the new keypad kit? Your supposed to tape off the handle to prevent this. Does no good now, but I know Liberty has the info in their documentation to prevent this error. Not good...
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 4:04:12 PM EST
So my thumb is bleeding...thank God it's still attached.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 4:11:07 PM EST
This thread reminds me of the time my dumb self locked a safe with an electric lock while in the process of changing the combination - WITH THE CHANGE KEY STILL IN BACK OF THE LOCK. INcidentally, there is NO way to use the lock to open the safe when the change key is still inserted in back.

Fortunately, moving the safe away from the wall, and violently knocking it to the ground shook the change key out - resetting the lock to the old combination. I made one hell of a mess and alot of noise, though .

I probably shouldn't mention the time when I kicked in my own front door once when I was already running late and left my keys inside. That wasn't so bad, until I realized my car was unlocked and I had a spare house key in the car the whole time!

Life is hard, it's harder when you're dumb.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 4:11:33 PM EST
No promlem just pour the hole full of liquid nitrogen then just shatter the door with a hammer
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 4:17:54 PM EST
You dont design nuclear bombs do you? Please say no.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 4:24:04 PM EST

Originally Posted By captainpooby:
You dont design nuclear bombs do you? Please say no.



im a nukular fizassist, cant u tel?
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 4:26:10 PM EST

Originally Posted By fizassist:

Originally Posted By captainpooby:
You dont design nuclear bombs do you? Please say no.



im a nukular fizassist, cant u tel?



Well they do lose nuclear secrets and fail to encrypt data on the hard drives?!?!
Someone REALLY needs to clean house out there. No telling just how much sensitive data those folks have lost neddlessly due to sloppy procedure.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 4:30:42 PM EST




Look at the bright side. When you order your new safe, you can get the digital lock straight from the factory.

Link Posted: 10/3/2004 4:39:20 PM EST

Originally Posted By fizassist:

Originally Posted By captainpooby:
You dont design nuclear bombs do you? Please say no.



im a nukular fizassist, cant u tel?




Oh, a smart guy with no common sense, I get it! Next time you build a nuclear bomb, just have someone check your work.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 4:40:18 PM EST
trust me on this ....dont do anything else......just call a locksmith........but hell probably tell you the only way to get in the safe once the relock is set is to burn your way in.....which will completely destroy the safe......sorry!
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 4:55:26 PM EST
Damn! I'm tagging this baby so I learn NEVER to do what you did!
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 5:04:58 PM EST

Originally Posted By zander829:
...burn your way in.....which will completely destroy the safe...


Actually, it is possible to weld up the hole, grind the weld flush and repaint the door.

Practicality might be a different issue.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 5:17:38 PM EST
Buy a new door if necessary.


Call a Locksmith - it's their job.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 5:27:37 PM EST
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 5:43:09 PM EST
Hooo-aaaaah!

She be open! And me with nothing more than a cut from a cobalt drill bit.

I had to open the hole up to 1/4", and then it was loooooooong process of forcing the relocking rod up with a screwdriver, holding it in place with the handle, forcing the relocking rod up with a screwdriver, etc. Lots of thanks to mag162. He told me that yes, I did have to drill; that's what made me go ahead with it. Dude, I owe you more than a beer, but we can start with that when I'm in NY sometime.

[happy dance]
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 5:50:26 PM EST
Good for you! Now you know how easy it is for a BG to get into your safe. Doesn't exactly inspire confidence in your safe now does it?

OTO if I were the manufacturer and someone called me with a story like you told about changing the lock I wouldn't tell you jackshit. How would I know if you were a BG trying to learn how to defeat their safe?

Once again, good for you. I'm glad it turned out OK.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 5:54:01 PM EST
BTW, I'm pretty happy with this $700 Sam's Club safe.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 5:58:13 PM EST

Originally Posted By Pangea:
Good for you! Now you know how easy it is for a BG to get into your safe. Doesn't exactly inspire confidence in your safe now does it?





Read my mind!
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 5:58:22 PM EST

Originally Posted By Pangea:
Good for you! Now you know how easy it is for a BG to get into your safe. Doesn't exactly inspire confidence in your safe now does it?



Easy?!?!?! It took me 3 hours with better tools than the average burglar would have. I ate up several carbid bits, and it took a lot of patience once I had the hole done. Now if it was a real safe-cracker that didn't care about destroying the safe, it would only take a few minutes, but why would a real safe-cracker care about a few thousand $ worth of guns?


OTO if I were the manufacturer and someone called me with a story like you told about changing the lock I wouldn't tell you jackshit. How would I know if you were a BG trying to learn how to defeat their safe?


Yeah, that was basically the response I got when I asked them a couple days ago about replacing the lock. I didn't imagine they would be any more helpful if I asked about breaking into it.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 6:00:07 PM EST

Originally Posted By brasspile:
You do realize you are counseling a guy who I tried to help disprove some ladder theory with over a bottle of Scotch, right?



Mmmmm....Scotch. That's what I need now!
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 6:19:13 PM EST

Originally Posted By 199:
Actually, the purpose of a relocker is to prevent someone who removed the lock from getting into the safe. So I kinda doubt it’s going to be easy to defeat.

I doubt this will help, but - some really cheap safes with relockers don’t have springs. Rather, the relocker works strictly from gravity.

In those instances the safe can be opened by rotating the entire safe upside down, causing the relocker to unlock.



+1.
I would have just turned it upside down, me being he-man and all.


Glad you got it open with a minimum amount of damage. To you AND the safe.
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 6:22:10 PM EST
Aaaaaaaah.....George Foreman is grilling me a steak, I have 2 fingers of Glenlivet, my safe is open, life is gooooood.

BTW, when are you going to help me finish off this bottle, Brass?
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 6:24:14 PM EST
Link Posted: 10/3/2004 6:26:34 PM EST

Originally Posted By 199:
Actually, the purpose of a relocker is to prevent someone who removed the lock from getting into the safe. So I kinda doubt it’s going to be easy to defeat.



I can confirm that.


I doubt this will help, but - some really cheap safes with relockers don’t have springs. Rather, the relocker works strictly from gravity.

In those instances the safe can be opened by rotating the entire safe upside down, causing the relocker to unlock.



The spring on my relocker was crazy-strong. I must have tried 100 iterations of holding the relocker with the handle, pushing it up with a screwdriver, etc. The relocker kept slipping down because of the spring. The last time, it must have taken 15-20 cycles of inching it up 1/2 mm at a time before I could open the safe.
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