Posted: 3/12/2010 4:29:28 AM EDT
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I was looking through some old tools and realized that I really don't know what some of these things are for, or why you would use one instead of the other. For instance:  Why not just use a tape measure? I know which end of a screw driver is a handle. I know a hammer is for wacking. I also know that pliers are the pinchy things in the tool box. I know that I've got some pretty nice power tools that can be used for more than straight cuts and drilling holes. What the hell is a "day-doe" blade? What tools and "How to" primer can you share with me? |
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Tools are wonderful things. They have intended uses, screwdrivers for screws, for instance. But, the best uses for tools are the uses that the tool is not intended for. Screwdrivers for opening paint cans, for instance. Dado blades are for cutting grooves. Mostly in wood. Say, a groove to slide a shelf in. But, dado blades can also be used for producing large quantities of sawdust, while quickly creating a "step" in the edge of a panel. |
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To your original question, a foot rule works better for fine carpentry. It can lay relatively flat and stable, and is far more rigid than a tape measure. In addition, they are better to use for marking along an edge.
The one in your picture is somewhat rare, being metric. |
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To your original question, a foot rule works better for fine carpentry. It can lay relatively flat and stable, and is far more rigid than a tape measure. In addition, they are better to use for marking along an edge. The one in your picture is somewhat rare, being metric. A folding ruler provides a more precise measurement, a tape measure has some play in the tang (a bunch of play if the tape is worn) this can cause errors by as much as 1/16". Example: If you take a measurement between two boards you'll push in on the tang, then when you measure a board to fit in that space you pull on the tang. This isn't a problem for most jobs but for cabinet making it makes a difference. |
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Try measuring something over your head with a tape measure. A-Ha! That makes a lot of sense. Okay, give me some more. How about a jointer? Spanner wrench? What makes channel locks better than a Monkey wrench? Teach me more. A jointer is like a small planer––usually 6" and it makes wood surfaces smooth. A spanner wrench is a special wrench for a special application, and it usually goes around something round, with a spud on the end to go into a hole, and it then used to turn the item. A pic would go a long ways here, so google it. A "channel lock" is a brand name for a type of slip joint plier. A "monkey wrench" is a pipe wrench (old term for it). Both are "better" for their intended use. You could not get gas or water-tight joints with a channel lock plier on iron pipe, so it is definitely NOT better for that. For easy stuff the channel lock is a little handier. |
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To your original question, a foot rule works better for fine carpentry. It can lay relatively flat and stable, and is far more rigid than a tape measure. In addition, they are better to use for marking along an edge. The one in your picture is somewhat rare, being metric. A folding ruler provides a more precise measurement, a tape measure has some play in the tang (a bunch of play if the tape is worn) this can cause errors by as much as 1/16". Example: If you take a measurement between two boards you'll push in on the tang, then when you measure a board to fit in that space you pull on the tang. This isn't a problem for most jobs but for cabinet making it makes a difference. A good one will have the amount of play to correspond with the thickness of the tang. 
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Quoted: The only (quality) tapes I ever had with more play than that were 'used' enough that the numbers were almost worn off.Quoted: Quoted: To your original question, a foot rule works better for fine carpentry. It can lay relatively flat and stable, and is far more rigid than a tape measure. In addition, they are better to use for marking along an edge. The one in your picture is somewhat rare, being metric. A folding ruler provides a more precise measurement, a tape measure has some play in the tang (a bunch of play if the tape is worn) this can cause errors by as much as 1/16". Example: If you take a measurement between two boards you'll push in on the tang, then when you measure a board to fit in that space you pull on the tang. This isn't a problem for most jobs but for cabinet making it makes a difference. A good one will have the amount of play to correspond with the thickness of the tang. Cheapshitchinese tapes have infinite variations out of the box. That being said, I use folding for accurate/precise/repeatable cabinetry numbers most often, but for a lot of other carpentry in general. Know your source. |
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To your original question, a foot rule works better for fine carpentry. It can lay relatively flat and stable, and is far more rigid than a tape measure. In addition, they are better to use for marking along an edge. The one in your picture is somewhat rare, being metric. A folding ruler provides a more precise measurement, a tape measure has some play in the tang (a bunch of play if the tape is worn) this can cause errors by as much as 1/16". Example: If you take a measurement between two boards you'll push in on the tang, then when you measure a board to fit in that space you pull on the tang. This isn't a problem for most jobs but for cabinet making it makes a difference. A good one will have the amount of play to correspond with the thickness of the tang. But then you need to remember which way it goes if marking off the end. The most accurate way to cut a board to length is to line up the graduation of the measurement you want, and then mark off the end of the footrule. With a tape measure, that floating end proved a problem. |
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Go to the Fine Woodworking and/or Fine Homebuilding web sites and read.
While there, review their book offerings. Find something that looks good to you and buy it. Sometimes, their books are available on Amazon, so you might be able to get a small discount. Taunton Press also offers their entire collection of the two magazines on CD/DVD. Those are expensive but represent a fairly good value. The tool reviews will be out of date but the methods of work and materials discussions are what you want. For woodworking, "Handtools, Their Ways and Workings" by Watson is a really good book about how to use and maintain the tools and the skills you need to develop. Read! |
| Watch every show you can on PBS, DIY Network and HGTV. I've learned most of my power took skills by watching Norm Abram on the New Yankee Workshop. Hand tools were learned on the other shows. I have been watching some of them for decades though. Did they make me an expert on everything? Not even close. But I have no fear that I can't tackle a household repair. It still takes me twice as long as expected and I usually break something but I learn something new in every project. |
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Masons and paving guys use those folding rulers all the time. Easier to measure off a stringline with one than using a tape measure. Pipe fitters use those too. Link Make sense now? |
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Try measuring something over your head with a tape measure. A-Ha! That makes a lot of sense. Okay, give me some more. How about a jointer? Spanner wrench? What makes channel locks better than a Monkey wrench? Teach me more. A jointer is like a small planer––usually 6" and it makes wood surfaces smooth. A spanner wrench is a special wrench for a special application, and it usually goes around something round, with a spud on the end to go into a hole, and it then used to turn the item. A pic would go a long ways here, so google it. A "channel lock" is a brand name for a type of slip joint plier. A "monkey wrench" is a pipe wrench (old term for it). Both are "better" for their intended use. You could not get gas or water-tight joints with a channel lock plier on iron pipe, so it is definitely NOT better for that. For easy stuff the channel lock is a little handier. Just to add - a jointer is used to plane the edges of a board not the surface. |
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Try measuring something over your head with a tape measure. A-Ha! That makes a lot of sense. Okay, give me some more. How about a jointer? Spanner wrench? What makes channel locks better than a Monkey wrench? Teach me more. A jointer is like a small planer––usually 6" and it makes wood surfaces smooth. A spanner wrench is a special wrench for a special application, and it usually goes around something round, with a spud on the end to go into a hole, and it then used to turn the item. A pic would go a long ways here, so google it. A "channel lock" is a brand name for a type of slip joint plier. A "monkey wrench" is a pipe wrench (old term for it). Both are "better" for their intended use. You could not get gas or water-tight joints with a channel lock plier on iron pipe, so it is definitely NOT better for that. For easy stuff the channel lock is a little handier. Just to add - a jointer is used to plane the edges of a board not the surface. Actually, a powered jointer can true up one edge and one face of a board, and make the two square to each other. A jointer plane (hand tool, like a big block plane) is used to square up and flatten board faces and edges. |
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Try measuring something over your head with a tape measure. A-Ha! That makes a lot of sense. Okay, give me some more. How about a jointer? Spanner wrench? What makes channel locks better than a Monkey wrench? Teach me more. A jointer is like a small planer––usually 6" and it makes wood surfaces smooth. A spanner wrench is a special wrench for a special application, and it usually goes around something round, with a spud on the end to go into a hole, and it then used to turn the item. A pic would go a long ways here, so google it. A "channel lock" is a brand name for a type of slip joint plier. A "monkey wrench" is a pipe wrench (old term for it). Both are "better" for their intended use. You could not get gas or water-tight joints with a channel lock plier on iron pipe, so it is definitely NOT better for that. For easy stuff the channel lock is a little handier. Just to add - a jointer is used to plane the edges of a board not the surface. Actually, a powered jointer can true up one edge and one face of a board, and make the two square to each other. A jointer plane (hand tool, like a big block plane) is used to square up and flatten board faces and edges. I'm not sure if we are thinking of the same tool but you are not supposed to plane the face of a board with a jointer. |
Sounds like someone is trying to earn his "Man Card" 
You wouldn't belive some of the questions I get asked about some of my tools I have sometimes. My Sons friends walked in one day and picked up my 10lb slide hammer and said something along the lines of why in the hell would you ever need this? I answered his question that weekend when I welded up a jig to bolt to the Samurai axle and popped it out using the slide hammer. I'm amazed at how my son cannot sometimes figure out how to properly use a wrench to get the maximum torque while trying to break something lose. I guess with years of use, I forget that I had to learn at one time. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Try measuring something over your head with a tape measure. A-Ha! That makes a lot of sense. Okay, give me some more. How about a jointer? Spanner wrench? What makes channel locks better than a Monkey wrench? Teach me more. A jointer is like a small planer––usually 6" and it makes wood surfaces smooth. A spanner wrench is a special wrench for a special application, and it usually goes around something round, with a spud on the end to go into a hole, and it then used to turn the item. A pic would go a long ways here, so google it. A "channel lock" is a brand name for a type of slip joint plier. A "monkey wrench" is a pipe wrench (old term for it). Both are "better" for their intended use. You could not get gas or water-tight joints with a channel lock plier on iron pipe, so it is definitely NOT better for that. For easy stuff the channel lock is a little handier. Just to add - a jointer is used to plane the edges of a board not the surface. Negative. It is used to square up a board. You run an edge, then a surface. Now you have a square edge and surface. You can then run the board through a planer to square up the opposite surface and get proper thickness. You run the board through a table saw with the square edge against the fence to square the remaining edge. I can do the same with my hand planes and have. Its just a whole lot more work. The 6" jointer I bought was one of the best purchases I ever made. I can mill up better S4S lumber than I can ever buy since acquiring it. I buy a lot of 4/4, 8/4 and 12/4 S2S lumber and then mill out my final working boards. You should also wait a few days after bringing raw lumber home before you start milling it. I can almost guarantee it will move some after you bring it home due to the difference in moisture levels at the yard versus your garage, shop, etc. I was very fortunate in that my Dad taught me how to use just about every hand tool and machine tool going. Between all the shop I took in Jr. High and High school, working with my Dad around the house and in his machine shop, a couple of cabinet makers and my own stuff there aren't too many tools or machines I can't use and run. I'm renovating a house right now by myself. Plumbing, tile work, carpentry, concrete work, roof repairs, etc. I do draw the line at electrical work. Not that I can't do it I just don't like working on it. Especially 220 work. ETA: Originally Posted By CTbuilder1: I'm not sure if we are thinking of the same tool but you are not supposed to plane the face of a board with a jointer. Its not something you want to do with a really long board but doing a 4' to 6' board is not too bad. Can't do anything wider than the head. Or you can but you have to be better at operating on than I am. Most people shy away from jointing face surfaces because it is a bit on the dangerous side. You have to watch for knots and always use push boards when you do it. I've had a few boards get tossed out of a jointer on me. Its not fun and always scares the shit out of me. The jointer and table saw are two of the most dangerous tools in a woodworking shop. A jointer will eat you alive. I've seen people cut fingers off twice with a table saw due in attention. A cabinet maker I worked with as a kid used to lay his hands down on the bed of the saw or jointer before he'd use them and stare at his hands. I asked him one day what he was doing and he told me he was counting his fingers. Said that if you aren't calm enough or can't concentrate enough to count ten fingers it time to find something else to do. This was coming from a 70 year old man with all of his fingers who could rip whole sheets of plywood on a table saw by himself. I still do it myself. |