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OH, USA
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Posted: 3/5/2010 3:31:16 AM EDT
[#1]
looks great! anyone do a winter/snow pattern?
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Posted: 3/5/2010 9:21:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Adirondack1]
[#2]
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Posted: 3/17/2010 3:53:37 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ColonelKlink]
[#3]
Went all over town looking for the right colors and only found 2 of them. Khaki and brown. I wonder how well OD would approximate the green. Maybe too dark?
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Posted: 3/17/2010 4:34:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: BigFatDog]
[#4]
Originally Posted By ColonelKlink:
Went all over town looking for the right colors and only found 2 of them. Khaki and brown. I wonder how well OD would approximate the green. Maybe too dark? It wouldn't. It is far too dark. It makes an excellent low-light color though. I've done a lot of experimentation and I'm working with... Krylon Fusion Camo - Khaki (base), Sand (foliage for the base [if you look closely at a large swatch of Multicam fabric {like the 60" wide bolt of 1000D that I am using for upholstery} you see that there are two shades of tan used as the base layer] If I hadn't already sprayed Khaki as my base, I would use Sand as the base and Khaki as the foliage color), woodland light green (green foliage) & O.D. (low-lights) Krylon Fusion - Satin Espresso (dark overspray of the sand/khaki base), Satin Dover White (high-lights... this color could be improved upon, but it's the best Krylon color that I've found) Krylon Outdoor Spaces - Satin Moss (green foliage) According to Krylon, no Texas distributors had ordered the Camo Sand and Camo Woodland Light Green colors. They offered to ship me one of each gratis, but I'm doing a car and a kayak and need more than one. I went to a Sherwin Williams and ordered what I needed in case (6) quantities. They were cheaper than WalMart, but I bought them through my LLC... I've also found that positive and negative stencils made from printer sheets for overhead projectors and held in place with stencil adhesive provide more satisfying results. On a small item, like a rifle I'd use painters tape like everyone else, but I would make both positive and negative stencils using the wide tape. ETA: I intend to clear coat with an epoxy |
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Posted: 3/17/2010 4:53:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Adirondack1]
[#5]
Originally Posted By BigFatDog:
Originally Posted By ColonelKlink:
Went all over town looking for the right colors and only found 2 of them. Khaki and brown. I wonder how well OD would approximate the green. Maybe too dark? It wouldn't. It is far too dark. It makes an excellent low-light color though. I've done a lot of experimentation and I'm working with... Krylon Fusion Camo - Khaki (base), Sand (foliage for the base [if you look closely at a large swatch of Multicam fabric {like the 60" wide bolt of 1000D that I am using for upholstery} you see that there are two shades of tan used as the base layer] If I hadn't already sprayed Khaki as my base, I would use Sand as the base and Khaki as the foliage color), woodland light green (green foliage) & O.D. (low-lights) Krylon Fusion - Satin Espresso (dark overspray of the sand/khaki base), Satin Dover White (high-lights... this color could be improved upon, but it's the best Krylon color that I've found) Krylon Outdoor Spaces - Satin Moss (green foliage) According to Krylon, no Texas distributors had ordered the Camo Sand and Camo Woodland Light Green colors. They offered to ship me one of each gratis, but I'm doing a car and a kayak and need more than one. I went to a Sherwin Williams and ordered what I needed in case (6) quantities. They were cheaper than WalMart, but I bought them through my LLC... I've also found that positive and negative stencils made from printer sheets for overhead projectors and held in place with stencil adhesive provide more satisfying results. On a small item, like a rifle I'd use painters tape like everyone else, but I would make both positive and negative stencils using the wide tape. ETA: I intend to clear coat with an epoxy My base is Krylon the rest of the colors are found at a local hobby store, it's best to bring in a swatch of cloth, I'll see if I can dig out the last bottles and give you specific colors and brand names. I'm going to put the light sand and burnt umber patterns on when the weather gets better on all the guns I posted. |
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Posted: 3/17/2010 5:01:37 PM EDT
[#6]
Originally Posted By Adirondack1:
Originally Posted By BigFatDog:
Originally Posted By ColonelKlink:
Went all over town looking for the right colors and only found 2 of them. Khaki and brown. I wonder how well OD would approximate the green. Maybe too dark? It wouldn't. It is far too dark. It makes an excellent low-light color though. I've done a lot of experimentation and I'm working with... Krylon Fusion Camo - Khaki (base), Sand (foliage for the base [if you look closely at a large swatch of Multicam fabric {like the 60" wide bolt of 1000D that I am using for upholstery} you see that there are two shades of tan used as the base layer] If I hadn't already sprayed Khaki as my base, I would use Sand as the base and Khaki as the foliage color), woodland light green (green foliage) & O.D. (low-lights) Krylon Fusion - Satin Espresso (dark overspray of the sand/khaki base), Satin Dover White (high-lights... this color could be improved upon, but it's the best Krylon color that I've found) Krylon Outdoor Spaces - Satin Moss (green foliage) According to Krylon, no Texas distributors had ordered the Camo Sand and Camo Woodland Light Green colors. They offered to ship me one of each gratis, but I'm doing a car and a kayak and need more than one. I went to a Sherwin Williams and ordered what I needed in case (6) quantities. They were cheaper than WalMart, but I bought them through my LLC... I've also found that positive and negative stencils made from printer sheets for overhead projectors and held in place with stencil adhesive provide more satisfying results. On a small item, like a rifle I'd use painters tape like everyone else, but I would make both positive and negative stencils using the wide tape. ETA: I intend to clear coat with an epoxy My base is Krylon the rest of the colors are found at a local hobby store, it's best to bring in a swatch of cloth, I'll see if I can dig out the last bottles and give you specific colors and brand names. I'm going to put the light sand and burnt umber patterns on when the weather gets better on all the guns I posted. I wanted to stay with products from the same manufacture to minimize some future compatibility issue, since the items I'm painting are going to see a lot more UV and the other things nature has to dish out than the average rifle. |
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Posted: 3/17/2010 5:17:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Adirondack1]
[#7]
Originally Posted By BigFatDog:
Originally Posted By Adirondack1:
Originally Posted By BigFatDog:
Originally Posted By ColonelKlink:
Went all over town looking for the right colors and only found 2 of them. Khaki and brown. I wonder how well OD would approximate the green. Maybe too dark? It wouldn't. It is far too dark. It makes an excellent low-light color though. I've done a lot of experimentation and I'm working with... Krylon Fusion Camo - Khaki (base), Sand (foliage for the base [if you look closely at a large swatch of Multicam fabric {like the 60" wide bolt of 1000D that I am using for upholstery} you see that there are two shades of tan used as the base layer] If I hadn't already sprayed Khaki as my base, I would use Sand as the base and Khaki as the foliage color), woodland light green (green foliage) & O.D. (low-lights) Krylon Fusion - Satin Espresso (dark overspray of the sand/khaki base), Satin Dover White (high-lights... this color could be improved upon, but it's the best Krylon color that I've found) Krylon Outdoor Spaces - Satin Moss (green foliage) According to Krylon, no Texas distributors had ordered the Camo Sand and Camo Woodland Light Green colors. They offered to ship me one of each gratis, but I'm doing a car and a kayak and need more than one. I went to a Sherwin Williams and ordered what I needed in case (6) quantities. They were cheaper than WalMart, but I bought them through my LLC... I've also found that positive and negative stencils made from printer sheets for overhead projectors and held in place with stencil adhesive provide more satisfying results. On a small item, like a rifle I'd use painters tape like everyone else, but I would make both positive and negative stencils using the wide tape. ETA: I intend to clear coat with an epoxy My base is Krylon the rest of the colors are found at a local hobby store, it's best to bring in a swatch of cloth, I'll see if I can dig out the last bottles and give you specific colors and brand names. I'm going to put the light sand and burnt umber patterns on when the weather gets better on all the guns I posted. I wanted to stay with products from the same manufacture to minimize some future compatibility issue, since the items I'm painting are going to see a lot more UV and the other things nature has to dish out than the average rifle. I have been testing the paint I have on the Preban Colt M4 clone since 2006 one coat at a time and have had good results with not only colorfastness but wear testing. I have basically done a first article inspection after each coat. I work in the firearms industry in Engineering and I have worked with several suppliers that do camo coating for our company. As far as I'm concerned, applying acrylic based paints works almost as well as the water based transfer systems so far as wear on actual firearms. Here is one of the initial 2006 pics: 
Here is the semi-finished result:
Here is a good guide to painting a Multicam style pattern: 
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Posted: 3/17/2010 6:20:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: BigFatDog]
[#8]
Originally Posted By Adirondack1:
Here is a good guide to painting a Multicam style pattern: http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e51/Adirondack1/multicampainting.jpg I've seen that and in the opinion of several artists (including graphic artists) who I have consulted with, it makes a major error and an omission It substitutes a green layer over the brown overspray for what should be a khaki or sand (depending on your base coat [tan1 & tan2 below]) "foliage patterned" layer under the brown overspray... 
It omits a dark green only "foliage patterned" fade layer which occurs before the low-lights. 
The best replicant that I have produced on a large panel consists of... Base layer of tan 1 Foliage layer tan 2 Brown overspray Foliage fade layer Lt Green Foliage fade blend layer Lt Green-Dk Green Foliage fade layer DK Green Low-light layer High-light layer |
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Posted: 4/10/2010 2:05:42 PM EDT
[#9]
Random Saturday Bump..
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UT, USA
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Posted: 6/8/2010 1:29:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Porter-Glockwell]
[#10]
Posted elsewhere. All krylon and rustoleum camo paint.
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AK, USA
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Posted: 7/18/2010 12:37:36 AM EDT
[#11]
Question: Would your rifle smell like spray paint and have that sort of plastic sticky feeling?
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Posted: 7/18/2010 1:35:57 AM EDT
[#12]
Originally Posted By AKFALAR: Question: Would your rifle smell like spray paint and have that sort of plastic sticky feeling? Mine did for a couple days but it doesnt anymore |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 8/14/2010 3:34:23 AM EDT
[#13]
So, with the help of this thread, I repainted my primary and did my first attempt at multicam. I think it turned out ok, but I went a little overboard with the green patterns and also misted my base kahki coat with a little too much green. Think I'll go with this for a short while and then give it another shot to try and get it right.
Rifle: 
With BDU top. 
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Posted: 9/5/2010 5:58:43 PM EDT
[#14]
monthly bump
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Posted: 10/5/2010 1:39:29 AM EDT
[#15]
monthly bump
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Posted: 10/9/2010 11:50:15 AM EDT
[#16]
bump
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Posted: 12/3/2010 10:03:16 AM EDT
[#17]
Bump.
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 12/27/2010 8:58:30 PM EDT
[Last Edit: tucansam]
[#18]
placemark
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GA, USA
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Posted: 1/12/2011 7:27:25 PM EDT
[#19]
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Posted: 1/14/2011 7:40:56 PM EDT
[#20]
Here is one I did a few years ago, not an AR or multi-cam but....
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TN, USA
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Posted: 1/15/2011 11:18:14 AM EDT
[#21]
im am afraid of trying it on my AR but the AK will be getting this treatment very soon. good job!
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/18/2011 6:49:07 PM EDT
[#22]
This was a really helpful thread- thanks to the guy that posted it!
I'm getting ready to Multicam my M4 and I'm going to try and copy the Multicam pattern as precisely as I can. I'm an artist by trade (tattooing, sign painting, watercolor, airbrush, etc) so I'm curious how close I can get. I'll take pix of each step, as I do it, and I'll at least post finished pix. It'll be a while, though- I'm still trying to decide which paint to use; andvtgen I still have to order it! The one comment I would make about the original post is that I think it's important to utilize the same scale and as close to the same patterns as possible because, from what I understand, Crye put an enormous amount of research into figuring out the scale, color and shapes to most effectively fool the eye. I know from the HD camp that's produced for hunting, that scale is INTEGRAL to the success of the pattern! Whether you think it "looks" good or not on a smaller surface (i.e. a gun), if you really want it to work as well as the real stuff, you NEED to maintain all the features of the original pattern. |
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Posted: 4/10/2011 8:51:38 PM EDT
[#23]
Bump to keep alive
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/5/2011 3:49:29 AM EDT
[#24]
Pretty sweet! Awesome write up! Love this place!
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Posted: 5/6/2011 6:36:37 PM EDT
[#25]
I decided to finally bite the bullet multicam the furniture on my SBR. My 18" AR15 is totally camo'd in pinestraw so I only wanted to do the furniture on this one.
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Posted: 5/11/2011 3:33:27 PM EDT
[#26]
Krylon goodness!
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Posted: 8/18/2011 12:11:41 PM EDT
[#27]
Here's my attempt, for my coyote gun:
Stripped gun and leaned everything with brake cleaner: 
Taped up scope dials, primed everything using Krylon gray primer: 
Started with a coat of Khaki, since our choices are now limited (seriously, Krylon could be making a lot of money if they had more color choices in their camo line!) 
Let dry, then assembled: 
Cut out camo pattern shapes from manila folders (I'll post a pdf here of mine ASAP, such that you can print them out and trace them if you like) and overlaid in this order: Satin Hunter Green, Brown Boot (Coyote substitute), Camo Brown, Pebble (Sand Dune substitute). Misted some olive green very lightly over the whole thing BEFORE THE PEBBLE COATING. Let dry for an hour in the sun: 
Won't win any beauty contests, but darned if it doesn't work, even in the green Ohio foliage! 
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Posted: 8/18/2011 3:02:15 PM EDT
[#28]
Originally Posted By RocketmanOU:
Won't win any beauty contests, but darned if it doesn't work, even in the green Ohio foliage! http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/RocketmanOU/Camo/HPIM0868-1Small.jpg http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/RocketmanOU/Camo/HPIM0871-1Small.jpg http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/RocketmanOU/Camo/HPIM0876Small.jpg Well you must have done a great job because I can't see it in a single picture! Nice job! |
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Posted: 8/19/2011 7:45:42 PM EDT
[#29]
Well I got bored and painted the rest of the rifle:
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Posted: 8/21/2011 1:20:41 AM EDT
[Last Edit: DM1975]
[#30]
Here is my "multicam-inspired" paing job on my newest build. I know it is not perfect, but it is effective and matches my helmet as well. The rifle is just cell phone pics but I will shoot some good pictures as soon as my optics get here.
And the helmet 
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Posted: 8/21/2011 12:37:49 PM EDT
[#31]
Originally Posted By DM1975:
Here is my "multicam-inspired" paing job on my newest build. I know it is not perfect, but it is effective and matches my helmet as well. The rifle is just cell phone pics but I will shoot some good pictures as soon as my optics get here. http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c29/DM1975/Recce/63df59aa-2.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c29/DM1975/Recce/c17d1d08-2.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c29/DM1975/Recce/3a87f237-2.jpg And the helmet
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c29/DM1975/helmet/h2.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c29/DM1975/helmet/h5.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c29/DM1975/helmet/h3.jpg Looks good! Its different and I like that! |
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Posted: 8/21/2011 7:40:38 PM EDT
[#32]
Thanks. I should have primed it first but I was too impatient. I cooked it in the oven but it is still a little sticky feeling.
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Posted: 8/21/2011 8:10:20 PM EDT
[#33]
Originally Posted By DM1975:
Thanks. I should have primed it first but I was too impatient. I cooked it in the oven but it is still a little sticky feeling. Give it a week or so. If it hasn't "dried" out by then hit it with some matte finish. Usually does the trick if I have a tacky issue. |
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Posted: 8/22/2011 10:57:52 PM EDT
[#34]
Originally Posted By unforgiven5150:
Originally Posted By DM1975:
Thanks. I should have primed it first but I was too impatient. I cooked it in the oven but it is still a little sticky feeling. Give it a week or so. If it hasn't "dried" out by then hit it with some matte finish. Usually does the trick if I have a tacky issue. This. Thanks to the wonderful humidity of Southern Ohio this time of year, mine took about 6 days to finally stop being a bit sticky, one of which was spent in front of the dehumidifier. I like the matte finish too, since it seems to make the paint a bit tougher (still has nothing on duracoat, but this is Krylon we're talking about here). |
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Posted: 8/22/2011 10:59:49 PM EDT
[#35]
Also, I have an AAR to give - this, plus my multicam BDU's, plus a simple headnet draped over my boonie rendered me totally invisible to the 4 deer wandering within 10-20 feet of me over the past three days (while coyote hunting). One didn't even give me a second look. Given that it was still broad daylight out, I was pretty happy.
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Posted: 8/23/2011 1:27:30 AM EDT
[#36]
Thanks for the info guys. Here is a better picture of it. I am still waiting on SWFA to ship the scope (almost a week now and the order has not processed)
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Posted: 8/23/2011 9:00:44 AM EDT
[#37]
Originally Posted By DM1975:
Thanks for the info guys. Here is a better picture of it. I am still waiting on SWFA to ship the scope (almost a week now and the order has not processed) http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c29/DM1975/Recce/IMG_3239.jpg Love the look! If you want to get rid of some of the gloss/reflection, you can very lightly take some 0000 steel wool to it in the shiny spots. |
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Posted: 8/23/2011 10:19:13 AM EDT
[#38]
Thanks, that is mainly just the editing. It is pretty flat and I even shot it with clear flat. The unedited version has very little specular highlights.
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Posted: 8/23/2011 12:50:02 PM EDT
[#39]
I've been debating about repainting this in multicam, just so all my stuff is the same. But on the other hand its nice to have some difference.
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Posted: 8/23/2011 8:17:19 PM EDT
[#40]
Originally Posted By unforgiven5150:
I've been debating about repainting this in multicam, just so all my stuff is the same. But on the other hand its nice to have some difference. http://i324.photobucket.com/albums/k348/un4gvn5150/SPR/IMG_4038.jpg I wouldn't, I think it looks good how it is. |
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Posted: 8/25/2011 12:51:12 AM EDT
[#41]
So I stripped it all down today and decided to do a bit more like multicam. Plus I bought a bunch of FDE stuff so I went to Wal Mart and tried to match it as close as possible for the grips, barrel, and light. I dunked it all in Acetone and scrubbed the hell out of it and began to re-paint. It is already not tacky at all (I primed it and did very light coats) and I coated it with clear flat. Let me know what you think...
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Posted: 8/25/2011 10:25:06 PM EDT
[#42]
Now with optics...
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Posted: 9/3/2011 11:56:11 PM EDT
[#43]
Can anyone list the correct colors and brands to do this. I want to multi cam my SBR and was hoping you guys could point me in the right direction.
Thanks |
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Posted: 9/4/2011 10:29:14 AM EDT
[#44]
Originally Posted By Kali110505:
Can anyone list the correct colors and brands to do this. I want to multi cam my SBR and was hoping you guys could point me in the right direction. Thanks I did in my post above. I used krylon. |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 9/12/2011 1:06:22 AM EDT
[#45]
Finally finished mine today. It's a little darker than I had wanted but it works. Maybe I'll dust it with some khaki to lighten it up a little.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/321075_248978018476686_100000934691578_693315_768379661_n.jpg |
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Posted: 9/13/2011 2:56:29 PM EDT
[#46]
I like it!
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Posted: 9/13/2011 3:12:56 PM EDT
[#47]
Originally Posted By buzz_gum:
Finally finished mine today. It's a little darker than I had wanted but it works. Maybe I'll dust it with some khaki to lighten it up a little. https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/321075_248978018476686_100000934691578_693315_768379661_n.jpg Looks good! |
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Posted: 9/23/2011 3:31:38 PM EDT
[#48]
Originally Posted By DM1975:
Now with optics... http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c29/DM1975/Recce/Recce.jpg This looks great now, more cohesive. |
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Posted: 9/27/2011 12:03:50 PM EDT
[#49]
Can't believe I just found this thread.
Great stuff! Thanks to op and the other "idea" contributors. The only painting I've done is duracoat (pink) on the furniture of my wife's rifle. Should I expect any binding issues on the dust cover, mag release, aimpoint caps, etc. Krylon directly on barrels? Does it burn up with a hot barrel? A lot of the examples I've seen don't look like they were stripped down much. Thanks! |
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IRL
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Posted: 10/9/2011 5:54:28 PM EDT
[#50]
Very nice OP.Would love to give this a try.
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