Posted: 2/19/2005 10:28:49 AM EDT
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My GFs hot water tank is giving her some problems. Even after a quick shower the water gets pretty cold for the next person. The tank is a 40 gallon fast recovery gas model installed in 1991. She wants to replace it. The code has changed and the vent has to be 4 inches instead of the 3 installed now. She got an estimate for $650. Is that reasonable? Any cheaper fixes? Also her furnace is relatively new but has been not responding occasionally. She got a new thermostat that fixed the problem for a while but on some days it doesnt want to come on until she manually turns it on. Any ideas? |
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NOT A HVAC tech, but what is the temp setting on the water heater? There is a temp setting adjustment near the pilot light controller. Maybe the temp setting is a bit too low, and you're running the hot water down too quickly. Maybe if you set it higher you can blend in more cold water to conserve the hot water. Why don't guys just wait for the hot water heater to recycle. |
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14 years for a hot water heater is pretty good. Does the house have hard water? If so, then after 14 years it is time to change water heaters. I dont think $650 is a bad deal, IF it includes upgrading the venting, as well as intallation and removal of the old hot water heater. Around here, we have hard water, and 10 years for a water heater is a good run, mine was a new heater in 1998 when I had the house built, and I can allready tell a differance in the amount of hot water I get out of a shower. 3 more years, then I change it out. |
New houses are sweet, but trust me, they still need upkeep, I have a list of spring projects, that are just routine things. |
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It's likely full of crud - you might try draining the tank to see if enough comes out to permit the burner to heat the water efficiently again. If the water is hard in your area, the tank may have a ton of mineral deposits. Except for the 4 inch vent glitch, $650 sounds high - you're a doc, install a new hot water heater for her. |
| There is a tube that slips into the tank through the cold water side called called a drop tube I believe, usually when the problem you describe happens, that tube is rotted off. It puts the cold water to the bottom to heat it while the hot side pulls the heated water off the top. If the tube is rotted the cold water stays on top and is drawn off through the hot water side. Replace the drop tube. |
Damn, I have alread replaced her fridge and freezer (2 separate units), bought her a Maytag washer and dryer, replaced her garage door, bought her a snow blower, leaf blower, mower and paid for half her hot tub. No Fucking Way am I going to pay for the heater! #@&)($@()&#@)(#&! |
I meant you are smart, not rich. 
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Just remember who is taking the second shower 
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1991??? I will bet 100 bucks that the orifice for the main burner is plugged with spider webs... YES YOU HEARD ME RIGHT!!! SPIDER WEBS. They make a small web right at the orifice opening and thus restricting the gas flow. Also, when was the last time you flushed that tank out? I bet it is so full of sand and crap it is insulating it. SO... Homework assignment... MAINTAIN THAT FUGGER!!! Furnace?? I dont know... not without more info. Is it a digital thermostat or the dial kind? |
Yeah, when I go on vacation, I usually turn-off the hot water heater, not only to save money on natural gas; but also the water is stone cold when I get back, and I just hook up the garden hose to the hot water heater spigot and drain the water on the the lawn rather than run the water into the storm drain. That way most of the sediment at the bottom of the hot water heater gets flushed out into the lawn. ARDOC: There is a price to be paid for a nice warm bed at nigth. |
NO. If the tank isn't leaking, it will soon. 10 years on a water heater and you are pushing it. I have installed several. You don't want it happening when you are on vacation. Replace it. Screw the vent. It is good enough. |
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Replace the "Dip Tube" on the cold water side of the water heater. The old one has broken off inside the tank. Google "dip tube" for more info. Dunno 'bout the furnace. What do you mean she has to turn it on manually. Is the new thermostat programmable. Could be a loose wire or weak batterys if it has 'em. Maybe a bad "new" thermostat. |
+1 this is your problem. Replace the tank if it was installed in 1991. $650 it a bit high IMO, I install new nat. gas 40gal. AO Smith tanks for $525 including everything. Yes the code has changed to incluse a 4" vent pipe and a vapor proof tank. ETA- If it is a electic tank you can expect higher prices, maybe $600- 650 |
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As for the furnace, it sounds like she is having to turn the heat/off/cool switch off then back on to get the heat to come on? If that's the case what she is doing is resetting the faults in the computer and restarting the cycle. Sounds like a intermitant problem and thay are a pain in the ass. Next time you notice it has failed DON'T TOUCH ANYTHING!! Go look at the furnace and on the bottom half (blower section) you should see a 1/2' peep hole, look inside and you should see a blinking light, count the # of flashes, count them again because once you take the cover off it resets the computer. Take off the covers of the furnace and look both inside and on the back of the covers for a code sheet. It will tell you: 1 flash - Stuck pressure switch 2 flash - Roll out switch 3 flash - High limit switch ect, ect........ IM me and we can go from there. |