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Posted: 11/21/2023 8:53:53 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It's that the big one I keep hearing really poor things about? Nah, that's the Prusa XL, which admittedly Prusa really shit the bed on. I canceled my order, so did RP. Neither of us regret that decision at this point in time. They have some serious issues to work through and Bambu is eating their lunch and now QIDI is coming for a seat at the table as well. The biggest issue with Bambu is the volumetric flow rate. They are being EXTREMELY deceptive with claimed speeds. Yes, the machine is capable of slinging the hotend at 500mm/s, however, almost NO print will allow for that speed. On a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer height, you're limited to less than 50mm/s, slower than even an MK3S can print, let alone an MK4. Given ~$1500, I'd take an MK4+MMU3+Lack enclosure over the X1C+AMS. That said the bambu does make some really beautiful prints. But between the volumetric flow rate limitations, completely proprietary hardware, and the forced use of the cloud, I'm just not interested. QIDI fixed a lot of those issues, but their print quality isn't quite as good from the parts I've seen printed, and I'd expect automatic First Layer Calibration on new cutting edge printers, but QIDI is missing that feature. Frankly, there is still a decent gap in what the market truly needs. Nobody has filled the niche yet perfectly on speed, throughput, print quality, and feature set. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 9:20:59 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Nah, that's the Prusa XL, which admittedly Prusa really shit the bed on. I canceled my order, so did RP. Neither of us regret that decision at this point in time. They have some serious issues to work through and Bambu is eating their lunch and now QIDI is coming for a seat at the table as well. The biggest issue with Bambu is the volumetric flow rate. They are being EXTREMELY deceptive with claimed speeds. Yes, the machine is capable of slinging the hotend at 500mm/s, however, almost NO print will allow for that speed. On a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer height, you're limited to less than 50mm/s, slower than even an MK3S can print, let alone an MK4. Given ~$1500, I'd take an MK4+MMU3+Lack enclosure over the X1C+AMS. That said the bambu does make some really beautiful prints. But between the volumetric flow rate limitations, completely proprietary hardware, and the forced use of the cloud, I'm just not interested. QIDI fixed a lot of those issues, but their print quality isn't quite as good from the parts I've seen printed, and I'd expect automatic First Layer Calibration on new cutting edge printers, but QIDI is missing that feature. Frankly, there is still a decent gap in what the market truly needs. Nobody has filled the niche yet perfectly on speed, throughput, print quality, and feature set. What about lulzbot |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 9:54:13 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What about lulzbot No experience and there aren't a ton of reviews out there, at least not many that are truly unbiased. They are expensive for what they are. That said, I'd expect them to be damn good for what they are charging. But I'm not sure if they are good. Their super tall and long bed printers are pretty interesting though, and they must have some pretty serious heating elements because the long bed version comes stock with a 1.2mm nozzle. Talk about volumetric flow rate! |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 10:02:46 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Nah, that's the Prusa XL, which admittedly Prusa really shit the bed on. I canceled my order, so did RP. Neither of us regret that decision at this point in time. They have some serious issues to work through and Bambu is eating their lunch and now QIDI is coming for a seat at the table as well. The biggest issue with Bambu is the volumetric flow rate. They are being EXTREMELY deceptive with claimed speeds. Yes, the machine is capable of slinging the hotend at 500mm/s, however, almost NO print will allow for that speed. On a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer height, you're limited to less than 50mm/s, slower than even an MK3S can print, let alone an MK4. Given ~$1500, I'd take an MK4+MMU3+Lack enclosure over the X1C+AMS. That said the bambu does make some really beautiful prints. But between the volumetric flow rate limitations, completely proprietary hardware, and the forced use of the cloud, I'm just not interested. QIDI fixed a lot of those issues, but their print quality isn't quite as good from the parts I've seen printed, and I'd expect automatic First Layer Calibration on new cutting edge printers, but QIDI is missing that feature. Frankly, there is still a decent gap in what the market truly needs. Nobody has filled the niche yet perfectly on speed, throughput, print quality, and feature set. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: It's that the big one I keep hearing really poor things about? Nah, that's the Prusa XL, which admittedly Prusa really shit the bed on. I canceled my order, so did RP. Neither of us regret that decision at this point in time. They have some serious issues to work through and Bambu is eating their lunch and now QIDI is coming for a seat at the table as well. The biggest issue with Bambu is the volumetric flow rate. They are being EXTREMELY deceptive with claimed speeds. Yes, the machine is capable of slinging the hotend at 500mm/s, however, almost NO print will allow for that speed. On a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer height, you're limited to less than 50mm/s, slower than even an MK3S can print, let alone an MK4. Given ~$1500, I'd take an MK4+MMU3+Lack enclosure over the X1C+AMS. That said the bambu does make some really beautiful prints. But between the volumetric flow rate limitations, completely proprietary hardware, and the forced use of the cloud, I'm just not interested. QIDI fixed a lot of those issues, but their print quality isn't quite as good from the parts I've seen printed, and I'd expect automatic First Layer Calibration on new cutting edge printers, but QIDI is missing that feature. Frankly, there is still a decent gap in what the market truly needs. Nobody has filled the niche yet perfectly on speed, throughput, print quality, and feature set. You can get aftermarket hot ends for Bambu printers that allow higher flow rates. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 10:47:59 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You can get aftermarket hot ends for Bambu printers that allow higher flow rates. Link? The hotend, by far, is my biggest gripe with the Bambu. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 10:58:02 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What about lulzbot Lulzbot was a leading company a few years ago, but they were falling behind at innovation. The biggest issue for them was a slow transition to 1.75mm filament. However, they were slow to get rid of the cleaning strip too. They were pioneers of automatic leveling, but their implementation was a stone age, with corner sensing only. Meanwhile, Prusa was continuously innovating their level sensors, allowing for thinner, more consistent first layer, with a better adhesion. That is not a small thing for production printing, when you do not want to spare human attention at current labor rates. As they lagged in development, they started to lag in sales, and they went into a bankruptcy and an acquisition a couple of years ago. I'd love to hear if they got reborn under the new ownership. Everyone always drags the latest proprietary, brittle, Chinese shit like Bamboo around. But if you really print, you cannot fall for the hype. We replaced Lulzbot with Prusas. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 11:02:12 AM EDT
[#7]
This kid is brilliant. Current technology isn't perfect, but this kids project is a leap forward towards barrel printing and spring printing.
 i made a new type of 3d printer to make progressive twist barrels, springs, screws, rods, and more |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 11:04:13 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This kid is brilliant. Current technology isn't perfect, but this kids project is a leap forward towards barrel printing and spring printing.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58AD7zPnxcUThat guy, and the guy that made the five axis Prusa are certainly cutting edge. The five axis was brilliant. I wish somebody would bring it to market on a larger scale. In both instances these guys are writing their own slicing software. Pretty incredible.  Open5x: Accessible 5-axis 3D printing and conformal slicing |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 11:39:57 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: They weren't just "used" they have entire covert factories that are churning out FGC-9 full auto smgs, they're home making bolts and barrels with rifling using designs and guides from the fosscad community. https://greydynamics.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/0kmiciedvr081.jpg https://greydynamics.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/screenshot-twitter.com-2021.12.13-13_40_52-2.png https://greydynamics.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/image.jpeg-1-1.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: There are quite a few videos coming out of Europe of printed guns running full auto and a fair number of those printed 9mm subguns were used in some conflict in SE Asia (IIRC) recently. In the few videos where anyone talks, they generally mention that they're for short term use; I'm assuming they mean assassinations/ambushes, and use as a means to acquiring better weapons. The cartels are definitely running CNC machines and there are ways to use 3d printing to make rifled barrels and other parts so the tech is moving quickly. And then there are places like NY where they've proposed registration on 3D printers.... They weren't just "used" they have entire covert factories that are churning out FGC-9 full auto smgs, they're home making bolts and barrels with rifling using designs and guides from the fosscad community. https://greydynamics.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/0kmiciedvr081.jpg https://greydynamics.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/screenshot-twitter.com-2021.12.13-13_40_52-2.png https://greydynamics.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/image.jpeg-1-1.jpg Jstark is smiling down at this. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 11:43:18 AM EDT
[#10]
So, I understand the philosophy behind a 21st century liberator and that the gun community needs to update their idea of firearms from the buy once and hold for generations model.
Are round counts really there for your average firearm enthusiast? If a person were to actually iron out all their issues and get to printing, could they reasonably expect to get a couple of cases through say an fgc-9 or pistol build? Seems pcc’s are probably a slam dunk compared to say an orca, with its rifle heat and pressures. Edit: I do think you boys are doing the Lord’s work, thank you for your service |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 11:45:41 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This kid is brilliant. Current technology isn't perfect, but this kids project is a leap forward towards barrel printing and spring printing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58AD7zPnxcUI love his enthusiasm. I didn't expect him to go from springs and rods to "I'm totally not designing new illegal firearms and projection methods."  |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 11:48:22 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So, I understand the philosophy behind a 21st century liberator and that the gun community needs to update their idea of firearms from the buy once and hold for generations model. Are round counts really there for your average firearm enthusiast? If a person were to actually iron out all their issues and get to printing, could they reasonably expect to get a couple of cases through say an fgc-9 or pistol build? Seems pcc's are probably a slam dunk compared to say an orca, with its rifle heat and pressures. Being made from PLA, they wouldn't far well if left in the hot sun for too long, and I wouldn't want to go super hard use on them if I had the choice, But for a fun range gun they're just fine. And if the frame does break, I spend $4 worth of filament to print another and move all the parts over to it and you're back in business. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 11:48:24 AM EDT
[#13]
Wake me up when you can print 100% of it, barrels and all.
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Posted: 11/21/2023 11:56:29 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Two of my printed glock frames with over 500rds each on them, no issues at all I just don't get to shooting them as much. Others have gotten thousands on them without issue. Being made from PLA, they wouldn't far well if left in the hot sun for too long, and I wouldn't want to go super hard use on them if I had the choice, But for a fun range gun they're just fine. And if the frame does break, I spend $4 worth of filament to print another and move all the parts over to it and you're back in business. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: So, I understand the philosophy behind a 21st century liberator and that the gun community needs to update their idea of firearms from the buy once and hold for generations model. Are round counts really there for your average firearm enthusiast? If a person were to actually iron out all their issues and get to printing, could they reasonably expect to get a couple of cases through say an fgc-9 or pistol build? Seems pcc's are probably a slam dunk compared to say an orca, with its rifle heat and pressures. Being made from PLA, they wouldn't far well if left in the hot sun for too long, and I wouldn't want to go super hard use on them if I had the choice, But for a fun range gun they're just fine. And if the frame does break, I spend $4 worth of filament to print another and move all the parts over to it and you're back in business. Interesting, thanks. The other issue being that your average firearm enthusiast doesn’t want certain things on his credit card statements. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 12:02:47 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Interesting, thanks. The other issue being that your average firearm enthusiast doesn't want certain things on his credit card statements. Even if the result isn't quite as durable or long term reliable as a commercial firearm, the fact that you can do it as an end around gun bans and such is a large part of the "culture". |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 12:11:37 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Also being an FFL I don't even know if I can print one without serializing it now that every gun I touch must have a serial number. I've not cared enough to truly look into it. I don't really see the benefits of a printed gun, regardless. Anybody who thinks the government knows where the guns are has far too much confidence in our government. Bought a gun online. Sold the gun privately. Guy i sold to gets stopped in CA with the gun. Phoenix PD is contacted and stops by to ask if it was legitimately sold or stolen. Guy didnt have my info, so they ran the serial thats not supposed to be a record anywhere and came up with my name. Somebody has the data somewhere. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 12:15:03 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I would say the bulk of people in the 3D2A community are doing it because they can make interesting designs and because it's a middle finger to legal regulations. Even if the result isn't quite as durable or long term reliable as a commercial firearm, the fact that you can do it as an end around gun bans and such is a large part of the "culture". Being practical people for the most part, it seems that the 2a community doesn’t really understand the importance of home manufacturing. If the 2a depends solely on products purchased, it’s dead. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 12:25:37 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I've done just enough 3D printing to know that the kind of filaments I want to use for most of my projects, (not necessarily gun related) require a printer costing around $1500. I can buy a lot of small parts for less than that. When I can buy a turn key printer that can print CF and glass fiber filled nylon and other high temp filaments right out of the box for under $500, and do it really well, I'm all in. Until then, my PLA/ABS printers just sit idle because I am not interested in spending hours fiddling with them to get them to print well, or in trying to load upgraded firmware and modified hotends and rigging up enclosures to get them to do a "just okay" job at printing nylon. I have an Ender 3 V2 and an Ender 5 pro, plus the enclosure, plus a high temp creality hotend. But I don't want to spend my precious free time getting it to work together. I think creality released firmware for the Ender 3 V2 that will work with the new hotend, but not yet for the Ender 5, and that has an older board and display than the 3V2. $500, maybe even as much as $600 for a printer that I can plug in, load CF nylon, slice and print high quality prints is where I am back in the hobby. Bambu Lab P1S $599 You seriously are the best 
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Posted: 11/21/2023 12:29:58 PM EDT
[#19]
I unboxed my Prusa Mk4 yesterday, Prints great.
While I also have several 4 and 5 axis CNCs, this thing pleases me more than I thought it would. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 12:31:40 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Two of my printed glock frames with over 500rds each on them, no issues at all I just don't get to shooting them as much. Others have gotten thousands on them without issue. Being made from PLA, they wouldn't far well if left in the hot sun for too long, and I wouldn't want to go super hard use on them if I had the choice, But for a fun range gun they're just fine. And if the frame does break, I spend $4 worth of filament to print another and move all the parts over to it and you're back in business. It is encouraging that the bar is being raised and it may get there eventually, and somebody has to make that push. That being said, it is like a lifetime warranty on a poorly made weapon - it has limited utility in the middle of a firefight. For now, working out the Ghost Gunner issues yields the most value:  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 12:32:29 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Link? The hotend, by far, is my biggest gripe with the Bambu. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: You can get aftermarket hot ends for Bambu printers that allow higher flow rates. Link? The hotend, by far, is my biggest gripe with the Bambu. I'd go with the Mellow hotend, they make decent stuff and they work with the VZbot people to develop their stuff. It isn't clear if the nozzle the Mellow uses is a CHT clone nozzle though. Amazon does sell CHT clone nozzles for Bambu. Mellow Bambu Lab Replacement Hotend Another Bambu Hotend Option CNC Kitchen Tests Aftermarket Bambu Lab Hotends  Fast 3D printing is bad for Strength! (and how to fix it!) |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 12:34:18 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Wake me up when you can print 100% of it, barrels and all. Did you miss the part where high pressure home depot pipe can be rifled? |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 12:39:04 PM EDT
[#23]
I printed a bunch.
Then when MD required all homemade guns receive an FFL- applied serial number within 30 days of creation, I destroyed them because they didn't have metal plates embedded suitable to meet ATF marking requirements. I've been meaning to find a cheap source of small, readily available plates I could embed into future prints. Some use dog tags, but those are quite large for small projects like pistol frames. Kharn |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 12:43:22 PM EDT
[#24]
For those saying if you print too fast you lose strength, yes that's partially true but it really depends on your hotend. You can run faster and still maintain strength if you have the hotend to handle it.
Think of the hotend as a reservoir of melted material. If you increase the size of the reservoir you can maintain higher printing speeds. Standard hotends that may only have 10mm of melt zone where volcano nozzles have around 20mm of melt zone. Then you have insane hotends like the Goliath. Then you have the VZbot group that developed the Goliath hotend and they are able to get some crazy speeds out of their printers.   VzBoT - Rose vase mode 500mm/s 50K and 50SCV  Can you 3D print at 2000mm/s ? |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 1:09:32 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Bought a gun online. Sold the gun privately. Guy i sold to gets stopped in CA with the gun. Phoenix PD is contacted and stops by to ask if it was legitimately sold or stolen. Guy didnt have my info, so they ran the serial thats not supposed to be a record anywhere and came up with my name. Somebody has the data somewhere. You just kinda proved my point. They didn't even know who the rightful owner is. Let's say you DID have it. Police stop by. Sorry I sold it. To who? Don't know, don't care. Bye now! End of story. It's impossible to track. What you described above is a firearms trace which is possible to follow the daisy chain as long as you stay on one side of the 4473 process. However going outside that process is legal in nearly every state and once that happens firearms traces might prove original ownership, but never current ownership nor possession. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 1:32:55 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So, I understand the philosophy behind a 21st century liberator and that the gun community needs to update their idea of firearms from the buy once and hold for generations model. Are round counts really there for your average firearm enthusiast? If a person were to actually iron out all their issues and get to printing, could they reasonably expect to get a couple of cases through say an fgc-9 or pistol build? Seems pcc’s are probably a slam dunk compared to say an orca, with its rifle heat and pressures. Edit: I do think you boys are doing the Lord’s work, thank you for your service The more serious designers will put 10k rounds on a single gun before they release it, along with whatever the beta testers shoot. Printed Glock frames from a quality heat resistant nylon filament will last an incredibly long time. Hell I mag dumped 175 rounds out of my PLA+ frame with no breaks other than reloading and had no issues. It did warp after I was done but PLA warps if you breathe on it |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 1:45:22 PM EDT
[#27]
I bought a Markforged Mark Two that does the chopped CF in Nylon with continuous CF reinforcement. Aside from the test print I think I've used it twice in 2 years. Both times printing PLA for some simple gage pin organizers.
It's supposed to print stuff with the strength of aluminum. I guess I should start making some gun parts on it. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 1:51:25 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: For those saying if you print too fast you lose strength, yes that's partially true but it really depends on your hotend. You can run faster and still maintain strength if you have the hotend to handle it. Think of the hotend as a reservoir of melted material. If you increase the size of the reservoir you can maintain higher printing speeds. Standard hotends that may only have 10mm of melt zone where volcano nozzles have around 20mm of melt zone. Then you have insane hotends like the Goliath. Then you have the VZbot group that developed the Goliath hotend and they are able to get some crazy speeds out of their printers. https://provok3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/goliath-water.jpg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIP0tsWTcLc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGBx-sHxctwDoes that give the same layer adhesion as going slower though? When CNC Kitchen tested the Bambu with the cht nozzle, while it did print faster before under extrusion, the sheen was still different just the same, indicating a change at high speed. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 2:53:38 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Does that give the same layer adhesion as going slower though? When CNC Kitchen tested the Bambu with the cht nozzle, while it did print faster before under extrusion, the sheen was still different just the same, indicating a change at high speed. It obtained a higher flow rate before the change happened though. Indicating that the CHT nozzle did help heat the filament better. That was at normal PLA printing temperatures. He recommended printing at higher temps to get higher flow rates and help heat the plastic better. I print PLA+ at 255C on my Rapido UHF hotend with the Volcano nozzle. My ZeroG Merc 1 can print as fast as the Bambu Lab printers, but if the Bambu Lab was an option when I bought my Ender 5 Pro I would have gone with it instead. If you can source a cheap Ender 5 though this project is an awesome way to really improve the printer. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 2:56:17 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It obtained a higher flow rate before the change happened though. Indicating that the CHT nozzle did help heat the filament better. That was at normal PLA printing temperatures. He recommended printing at higher temps to get higher flow rates and help heat the plastic better. I print PLA+ at 255C on my Rapido UHF hotend with the Volcano nozzle. My ZeroG Merc 1 can print as fast as the Bambu Lab printers, but if the Bambu Lab was an option when I bought my Ender 5 Pro I would have gone with it instead. If you can source a cheap Ender 5 though this project is an awesome way to really improve the printer. I think there is more to layer adhesion than simply filament temp. The nozzle physically presses the filament into the layer below as it extrudes from overhead. Slower speeds give more time under pressure during the heat transfer as molten filament fuses (and thus dissipates heat into the base layer giving a stronger bond) and speeding up the nozzle undoubtedly gives less time for this pressurized adhesion to take place. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 3:02:29 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: It obtained a higher flow rate before the change happened though. Indicating that the CHT nozzle did help heat the filament better. That was at normal PLA printing temperatures. He recommended printing at higher temps to get higher flow rates and help heat the plastic better. I print PLA+ at 255C on my Rapido UHF hotend with the Volcano nozzle. My ZeroG Merc 1 can print as fast as the Bambu Lab printers, but if the Bambu Lab was an option when I bought my Ender 5 Pro I would have gone with it instead. If you can source a cheap Ender 5 though this project is an awesome way to really improve the printer. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Does that give the same layer adhesion as going slower though? When CNC Kitchen tested the Bambu with the cht nozzle, while it did print faster before under extrusion, the sheen was still different just the same, indicating a change at high speed. It obtained a higher flow rate before the change happened though. Indicating that the CHT nozzle did help heat the filament better. That was at normal PLA printing temperatures. He recommended printing at higher temps to get higher flow rates and help heat the plastic better. I print PLA+ at 255C on my Rapido UHF hotend with the Volcano nozzle. My ZeroG Merc 1 can print as fast as the Bambu Lab printers, but if the Bambu Lab was an option when I bought my Ender 5 Pro I would have gone with it instead. If you can source a cheap Ender 5 though this project is an awesome way to really improve the printer. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 4:09:31 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Nah, that's the Prusa XL, which admittedly Prusa really shit the bed on. I canceled my order, so did RP. Neither of us regret that decision at this point in time. They have some serious issues to work through and Bambu is eating their lunch and now QIDI is coming for a seat at the table as well. The biggest issue with Bambu is the volumetric flow rate. They are being EXTREMELY deceptive with claimed speeds. Yes, the machine is capable of slinging the hotend at 500mm/s, however, almost NO print will allow for that speed. On a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer height, you're limited to less than 50mm/s, slower than even an MK3S can print, let alone an MK4. Given ~$1500, I'd take an MK4+MMU3+Lack enclosure over the X1C+AMS. That said the bambu does make some really beautiful prints. But between the volumetric flow rate limitations, completely proprietary hardware, and the forced use of the cloud, I'm just not interested. QIDI fixed a lot of those issues, but their print quality isn't quite as good from the parts I've seen printed, and I'd expect automatic First Layer Calibration on new cutting edge printers, but QIDI is missing that feature. Frankly, there is still a decent gap in what the market truly needs. Nobody has filled the niche yet perfectly on speed, throughput, print quality, and feature set. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: It's that the big one I keep hearing really poor things about? Nah, that's the Prusa XL, which admittedly Prusa really shit the bed on. I canceled my order, so did RP. Neither of us regret that decision at this point in time. They have some serious issues to work through and Bambu is eating their lunch and now QIDI is coming for a seat at the table as well. The biggest issue with Bambu is the volumetric flow rate. They are being EXTREMELY deceptive with claimed speeds. Yes, the machine is capable of slinging the hotend at 500mm/s, however, almost NO print will allow for that speed. On a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer height, you're limited to less than 50mm/s, slower than even an MK3S can print, let alone an MK4. Given ~$1500, I'd take an MK4+MMU3+Lack enclosure over the X1C+AMS. That said the bambu does make some really beautiful prints. But between the volumetric flow rate limitations, completely proprietary hardware, and the forced use of the cloud, I'm just not interested. QIDI fixed a lot of those issues, but their print quality isn't quite as good from the parts I've seen printed, and I'd expect automatic First Layer Calibration on new cutting edge printers, but QIDI is missing that feature. Frankly, there is still a decent gap in what the market truly needs. Nobody has filled the niche yet perfectly on speed, throughput, print quality, and feature set. Thanks for the heads up on the XL. I also saw the lead time was a bit…. Long. I’m leaning toward the MK4, MEMU & enclosure bundle atm. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 4:22:35 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks for the heads up on the XL. I also saw the lead time was a bit…. Long. I’m leaning toward the MK4, MEMU & enclosure bundle atm. Consider your own enclosure. It's a fun and easy build. Pic of mine below. I have the MMU3 on order. I have an MMU2 currently. I still have the MK3S+ though (2 of them). I haven't felt compelled to upgrade it quite yet as they print very well for my needs. 
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Posted: 11/21/2023 4:23:52 PM EDT
[#34]
I bought a 3D printer and downloaded as many gun files as I could find, purely out of spite.
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Posted: 11/21/2023 4:25:37 PM EDT
[#35]
I have a milling machine. When I want to make a firearm, I start with a block of metal and turn everything that doesn't look like the desired firearm into chips. Just like 3D printing, only in reverse.
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Posted: 11/21/2023 4:41:56 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: PLA, PLA Plus/Pro/Tough/+ are easy to print. On the Bambu Lab any filament they have will print very easy in their machines. PETG is easy to print but can have issues getting stringing under control. I think ABS when printed in an enclosure is easy to print, but unenclosed can have warping issues. I bought some Polymaker PA6-CF but haven't printed anything with it yet. For 2A prints I use Polymaker filaments PLA Pro. They also support the gun community. For just cheap decent filament supposed to be made in the USA I buy NuMakers in bulk for $13.30-$14 per roll of PLA+. Polymaker PA6-CF has given me nothing but headache I print a ton with nylon CF and that is by far my least favorite. Prusa's Pa11 CF has been fairly reliable I usually like Polymakers PLAs too, I was disappointed |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 4:50:51 PM EDT
[#37]
Not a gun, but related to OPs question
I made the clamp on mount yesterday or the day before  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 4:54:40 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have a milling machine. When I want to make a firearm, I start with a block of metal and turn everything that doesn't look like the desired firearm into chips. Just like 3D printing, only in reverse. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/1087/CK_Millrite-573779.jpg Cute little mill! I use 3D printing to prototype many of the things I put on my mill. I have a Bridgeport Seria 1 HD with the T Ram head and a 60" table. Also has the True Trace power pack integrated in (not the aftermarket addition). It's 3500+lbs of Series 1 do whatever the hell I want with up to 3 heads at a time and the ability to copy templates in 3 dimensions. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 5:23:19 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I think there is more to layer adhesion than simply filament temp. The nozzle physically presses the filament into the layer below as it extrudes from overhead. Slower speeds give more time under pressure during the heat transfer as molten filament fuses (and thus dissipates heat into the base layer giving a stronger bond) and speeding up the nozzle undoubtedly gives less time for this pressurized adhesion to take place. I think there's a fine line between going too slow or too fast. Too slow and the previous layer has time to become more solid. When adding the next layer they won't mesh. Where as if you go fast and the layer before hasn't cooled solid you could get better adhesion since the layers can mesh better. If you outrun your ability to heat the filament that's when you lose layer adhesion since the center of the filament may not be fully melted. You have to run tests on your setup to find your max volumetric flow rate. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 5:27:13 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Consider your own enclosure. It's a fun and easy build. Pic of mine below. I have the MMU3 on order. I have an MMU2 currently. I still have the MK3S+ though (2 of them). I haven't felt compelled to upgrade it quite yet as they print very well for my needs. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/20221121_202746-2653323.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Thanks for the heads up on the XL. I also saw the lead time was a bit…. Long. I’m leaning toward the MK4, MEMU & enclosure bundle atm. Consider your own enclosure. It's a fun and easy build. Pic of mine below. I have the MMU3 on order. I have an MMU2 currently. I still have the MK3S+ though (2 of them). I haven't felt compelled to upgrade it quite yet as they print very well for my needs. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/20221121_202746-2653323.jpg Ah, I see you use server racks for your setup.
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Posted: 11/21/2023 5:35:31 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I think there's a fine line between going too slow or too fast. Too slow and the previous layer has time to become more solid. When adding the next layer they won't mesh. Where as if you go fast and the layer before hasn't cooled solid you could get better adhesion since the layers can mesh better. If you outrun your ability to heat the filament that's when you lose layer adhesion since the center of the filament may not be fully melted. You have to run tests on your setup to find your max volumetric flow rate. But is it a volumetric melt rate issue or a limit to how fast the polymer "likes" to be pushed through a die and deposited? In other words, is the sheen difference at high print speeds, which are well within the hotend capability, indicating a "speed limit" regarding strength? |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 7:05:17 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: But is it a volumetric melt rate issue or a limit to how fast the polymer "likes" to be pushed through a die and deposited? In other words, is the sheen difference at high print speeds, which are well within the hotend capability, indicating a "speed limit" regarding strength? My understanding is shiny means filament is fully melted when extruded. Matte is where it may not be fully melted or when strength starts to decrease. In my testing I've found I can either slow the print speed down to keep it shiny or raise printing temps but keep speeds the same. It also depends what size object you print. On smaller models the printer may never get to full speed but larger models it can. That what CNC kitchen said in his video. He had to increase his acceleration values to somewhat maintain max volumetric flow for his test pieces. |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 8:08:14 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Consider your own enclosure. It's a fun and easy build. Pic of mine below. I have the MMU3 on order. I have an MMU2 currently. I still have the MK3S+ though (2 of them). I haven't felt compelled to upgrade it quite yet as they print very well for my needs. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/20221121_202746-2653323.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Thanks for the heads up on the XL. I also saw the lead time was a bit…. Long. I’m leaning toward the MK4, MEMU & enclosure bundle atm. Consider your own enclosure. It's a fun and easy build. Pic of mine below. I have the MMU3 on order. I have an MMU2 currently. I still have the MK3S+ though (2 of them). I haven't felt compelled to upgrade it quite yet as they print very well for my needs. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/20221121_202746-2653323.jpg I like the shelving idea. I’m usually a DIY kinda guy, but on this I would like as much turn key as possible. What size spools are those big ones in your pic? Is there much adjustment going from smaller to larger spools, due to drag, for the feed mechanisms? |
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Posted: 11/21/2023 8:22:53 PM EDT
[#44]
I saw that someone on the fosscad reddit had a glock frame printed in tpu of all things and it was running. Kinda interested if more people give that a try and how it holds up.
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Posted: 11/22/2023 12:59:15 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Are round counts really there for your average firearm enthusiast? Seems pcc’s are probably a slam dunk compared to say an orca, with its rifle heat and pressures. Something like MacDaddy can last for thousands of rounds, although if you use low temperature materials like PLA, you have to let it rest between mag dumps. But you can go to GF Nylon if you want. About FGC-9, I'm not so sure. A lot depends on the materials again, and the quality. Unlike Mac, you have plastic-on-plastic motion. My main product has steel on plastic motion, and it is the top wear area. The surface finish has a tremendous effect on the longevity of the assembly. My debut product was an AR9 adapter. I made PPQ and P320 versions. The P320 model didn't last as well. Because of the feeding geometry, the case mouth scooped the feedramp and acted like a chisel at every round fired. Note that Aves and other places sell a metal feed ramp for Mac builds precisely because of a similar issue. |
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Posted: 11/22/2023 1:04:46 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I made the clamp on mount yesterday or the day before That bayo mount is awesome, especially if you printed it from a heat-resistant material, such as Nylon. I'm saying it as a fellow Ruger PC enjoyer. BTW, I hope everyone here realizes that it is extremely easy to order 3D printed parts made of stainless steel. It does cost money, but it's not anything absurd. A bayonet mount would probably run under $200 at Forecast3D or Protolabs. |
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Posted: 11/22/2023 1:23:15 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: PETG is easy to print but can have issues getting stringing under control. Quote HistoryQuoted: PETG is easy to print but can have issues getting stringing under control. PETG has terrible layer adhesion, is too flexible, and fails catastrophically. I have experience with the first two; the third I've only read about on /r/fosscad because I heeded their many warnings. Quoted: I saw that someone on the fosscad reddit had a glock frame printed in tpu of all things and it was running. Kinda interested if more people give that a try and how it holds up. That will be hilarious right up until one trigger pull before he eats the slide. Here's hoping he wears a face shield. |
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Posted: 11/22/2023 1:51:17 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: PETG has terrible layer adhesion, is too flexible, and fails catastrophically. I have experience with the first two; the third I've only read about on /r/fosscad because I heeded their many warnings. That will be hilarious right up until one trigger pull before he eats the slide. Here's hoping he wears a face shield. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: PETG is easy to print but can have issues getting stringing under control. PETG has terrible layer adhesion, is too flexible, and fails catastrophically. I have experience with the first two; the third I've only read about on /r/fosscad because I heeded their many warnings. Quoted: I saw that someone on the fosscad reddit had a glock frame printed in tpu of all things and it was running. Kinda interested if more people give that a try and how it holds up. That will be hilarious right up until one trigger pull before he eats the slide. Here's hoping he wears a face shield. I don't print structural parts or 2A in PETG. PETG actually has fantastic layer adhesion if printed properly, but it does fail in a spectacular manor. It's too flexible for my purposes too and for any 2A print. |
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Posted: 11/22/2023 2:24:31 AM EDT
[#49]
So, I think I found my next cool print.
The UMP-V0 Edgar Version found on the odd sea by brokenbullets I scored several CZ Scorpion parts including a bare bolt recently which this uses, but with a Glock 17 barrel. The barrel I got cheap from Primary Arms blem blowout for like $28 shipped. you have to file 3mm off the Glock barrel. Uses standard AR15 FCG. I think I'll try this before printing the CZ Scorpion since I won't have to buy a Scorpion barrel.  
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Posted: 11/22/2023 2:41:26 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That bayo mount is awesome, especially if you printed it from a heat-resistant material, such as Nylon. I'm saying it as a fellow Ruger PC enjoyer. BTW, I hope everyone here realizes that it is extremely easy to order 3D printed parts made of stainless steel. It does cost money, but it's not anything absurd. A bayonet mount would probably run under $200 at Forecast3D or Protolabs. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I made the clamp on mount yesterday or the day before That bayo mount is awesome, especially if you printed it from a heat-resistant material, such as Nylon. I'm saying it as a fellow Ruger PC enjoyer. BTW, I hope everyone here realizes that it is extremely easy to order 3D printed parts made of stainless steel. It does cost money, but it's not anything absurd. A bayonet mount would probably run under $200 at Forecast3D or Protolabs. Yep, CF Nylon I've looked at 3D printing on Xometry as well as CNC, but for the most part CF nylon had held up well once I get the geometry dialed in. the cost is a bummer, especially for clamp on things and 3D printed metal doesn't seem to have much of a benefit for volume More importantly, I'm not clear ing trenches the my PC9, just stabbing boxes in my basement |
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