[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Gunsmith fail (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 2/7/2014 7:28:21 PM EDT
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Hey all...
So I dropped the new LE6920 and PWS FSC556 muzzlebrake off at the local gunshop (who contracts their gunsmiths) to be pinned/welded. Well, a week later I get a phone call saying its done. I go to pick it up, only to find that the muzzle brake is on upside down, the "pin/weld" is actually a pin and fusion weld, and shitty looking weld at best, and it literally looks like someone spray painted the muzzlebrake and end of the barrel with black spray paint. Needless to say, I am about to kill this guy who actually welded it. I told the store owner the gun was totally wrong and he said he would bring it back to the smith to fix, otherwise he would have the smith replace it. Here is my question, is it even possible to remove a welded on muzzlebrake? I do not want a screwed up colt barrel, and I'm terrified I'm gonna get screwed over and have to buy a new barrel and brake on my own dime. Also, when I originally dropped the gun off, I asked the gunshop to pin and weld the brake on. Now maybe I have a different version of "pin and weld" a brake, but isn't that pretty much universal for pin the brake and then put a small weld over it to make it permanent? Holy shit, I am beyond pissed right now. |
| I don't think you can salvage the threads after the jackass laid a full bead around the the brake. I'm not familiar with NJ's laws but if it's legal send it to ADCO and have them cut the barrel to 14.5, thread it, and install a new brake. If at all possible make whoever screwed up pay for everything. |
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I don't think you can salvage the threads after the jackass laid a full bead around the the brake. I'm not familiar with NJ's laws but if it's legal send it to ADCO and have them cut the barrel to 14.5, thread it, and install a new brake. If at all possible make whoever screwed up pay for everything. This is what I would do. |
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Quoted: I don't think you can salvage the threads after the jackass laid a full bead around the the brake. I'm not familiar with NJ's laws but if it's legal send it to ADCO and have them cut the barrel to 14.5, thread it, and install a new brake. If at all possible make whoever screwed up pay for everything. I wish you had snapped a cell phone pic of the carnage. |
 at the shop.
Pinning the brake, but no welding over it, doesnt meet the requirememts. However, the full circumferential weld does. So why did they do botb. Makes no sense. As long as its not a pencil barrel, the brake and barrel can be salvaged. However, the profolr may change a wee bit, and it will definatrly need refinishing. |
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The more I think about it, I want to just call the shop back, tell them to speak to the smith about buying me a new barrel and brake, and send it straight to ADCO. I didn't think something this minor warranted being sent to ADCO, but holy shit, apparently it does. Incompetence.
Should I even let this smith take another shot at "fixing" this? Or should I just ask for a replacement barrel/brake and send it off? |
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Quoted: The more I think about it, I want to just call the shop back, tell them to speak to the smith about buying me a new barrel and brake, and send it straight to ADCO. I didn't think something this minor warranted being sent to ADCO, but holy shit, apparently it does. Incompetence. Should I even let this smith take another shot at "fixing" this? Or should I just ask for a replacement barrel/brake and send it off? |
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Is ADCO going to be able to removing the "refinishing" aka black spray paint all over the brake and last 3 inches of the barrel? Damnit, I am so friggin pissed off. Now I've got a mucked up Colt on my hands. The paint is a non issue and can be taken off with some brake cleaner. The SF is trash now man, no way to save it. Just take a couple of deep breaths and try to relax. Your rifle isn't trashed and can be repaired better than new. |
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No, all I requested was the bayonet lug be ground off, and the standard flash hider be replaced with a pinned/welded muzzlebrake. Nothing was cut down.
-To clarify, I currently live in NC, but have to make this 6920 NJ legal, as I am shortly moving back to NJ. Also, when I say the gunsmith fusion welded it, I mean a full circumference weld, barrel to brake weld. And a pin in the brake, into the threads. |
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I feel your pain... in Dec. a local "gunsmith" ruined the slide on a brand new 1911 pistol I took in for new sights. When I pointed out the problems, they denied there were any, then asked if I knew "how difficult" it is to install a staked front sight "perfectly." I hope you have better luck getting things resolved than I did.
Ken |
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... I go to pick it up, only to find that the muzzle brake is on upside down, the "pin/weld" is actually a pin and fusion weld, and shitty looking weld at best, ... All welds require fusion to make the joint. But if the shop did anything but weld the end of the pin, they screwed up. If the weld is around the circumference of the barrel, they owe you a new barrel and brake. The weld could be ground out and the brake removed, but the barrel is ruined cosmetically at best and most likely won't shoot. |
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This is what I would do. Quoted:
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I don't think you can salvage the threads after the jackass laid a full bead around the the brake. I'm not familiar with NJ's laws but if it's legal send it to ADCO and have them cut the barrel to 14.5, thread it, and install a new brake. If at all possible make whoever screwed up pay for everything. This is what I would do. ADCO will do a good job. Shipping it is an extra step but well worth it. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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The more I think about it, I want to just call the shop back, tell them to speak to the smith about buying me a new barrel and brake, and send it straight to ADCO. I didn't think something this minor warranted being sent to ADCO, but holy shit, apparently it does. Incompetence. Should I even let this smith take another shot at "fixing" this? Or should I just ask for a replacement barrel/brake and send it off? It doesn't matter how small the job, always send it to the best or it can and will get fucked up. Murphy's Law. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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I doubt adco will take a barrel that has already been attempted to be pin and welded.
You are at fault for trying to save a few dollars with your local 'gunsmith'. This is the age of the internet you have all the resources in the world why the hell would you go with a nobody and then bitch when it came back all dicked up. Hopefully they fix it. If now good luck. You are gonna be out of luck either way. |
maybe im missing something.... why would you pin / weld a brake on a barrel 16" or longer? i understand why on a 14.5 to reach 16". im just asking because people are mentioning cutting it to 14.5 and adding a brake . 
edit; oh i see, its to comply with some jacked up yankee gun law. 
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maybe im missing something.... why would you pin / weld a brake on a barrel 16" or longer? i understand why on a 14.5 to reach 16". im just asking because people are mentioning cutting it to 14.5 and adding a brake . Can't have a threaded barrel since it already has a pistol grip and collapsing stock. |
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If ADCO won't do it, these folks will: BP Tactical Services.
www.bptacticalservices.com Depending on what process of welding was done the barrel may or may not be salvageable. If it was TIG'd then probably yes. MIG, gas or Arc would be doubtful. The entirety of the existing shank needs to be cut off, and this will place the crown right in the HAZ (heat affected zone) of the barrel. Too much heat and the crystalline structure of the metal is compromised, the bore will likely be decreased slightly from shrinkage and the chrome lining may flake if scale was pulled from the metal because of too much heat. A properly pinned and welded muzzle device should only show a small (less than 1/8" diameter) weld evidence on the bottom of the device. Some Smith's will dress the weld down so it is undetectable while others will leave a slight puddle. Personally I would like to see a little evidence of the weld in case inquisitive eyes fall upon it. My guess why the spray paint "fix", the "Gumsmiff" cooked the Parkerizing when he welded it. Let's not even contemplate the flash hider being on upside down. This "Gumsmiff" get a correspondence school edumacation or what? |
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It doesn't matter how small the job, always send it to the best or it can and will get fucked up. Murphy's Law. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quoted:
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The more I think about it, I want to just call the shop back, tell them to speak to the smith about buying me a new barrel and brake, and send it straight to ADCO. I didn't think something this minor warranted being sent to ADCO, but holy shit, apparently it does. Incompetence. Should I even let this smith take another shot at "fixing" this? Or should I just ask for a replacement barrel/brake and send it off? It doesn't matter how small the job, always send it to the best or it can and will get fucked up. Murphy's Law. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile I rarely have anyone do work on my vehicles or guns for me, but when I do I always have a conversation with the people doing the work and make it clear exactly what I want and to get an understanding of their competence, it prevents crap like this. |
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No, it isnt. There are a lot of factors to consider given the level of hackness. Quoted:
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It's an easy fix. Slow down the unicorn tears. No, it isnt. There are a lot of factors to consider given the level of hackness. Most pinned barrels can be easily unpinned. It sounds like it's just a timing issue on the brake. It probably was rattle canned though. |
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Most pinned barrels can be easily unpinned. It sounds like it's just a timing issue on the brake. It probably was rattle canned though. Quoted:
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It's an easy fix. Slow down the unicorn tears. No, it isnt. There are a lot of factors to consider given the level of hackness. Most pinned barrels can be easily unpinned. It sounds like it's just a timing issue on the brake. It probably was rattle canned though. They didn't just pin it, and drop a bead on the pin. They welded all the way around, fusing the muzzle device to the barrel. |
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Let me first start off by commenting on the part in blue.
ADCO is a site sponsor here that most of us utilize for services exactly like this. They are the best. I do NOT trust any local gunstores around here for anything. When ADCO does their pin and weld service, they intentionally make the pin so it's noticeable. That way there's no debate as to whether it's legally pinned on not. They still grind it down, weld the end and refinish the area. But they don't make it absolutely perfect so it looks like nothing is there, which could result in a misunderstanding. Having said that, the way you make it sound is as if it's a total hack job from someone with zero expertise. SEND TO ADCO. Quoted:
Hey all... So I dropped the new LE6920 and PWS FSC556 muzzlebrake off at the local gunshop (who contracts their gunsmiths) to be pinned/welded. Well, a week later I get a phone call saying its done. I go to pick it up, only to find that the muzzle brake is on upside down, the "pin/weld" is actually a pin and fusion weld, and shitty looking weld at best, and it literally looks like someone spray painted the muzzlebrake and end of the barrel with black spray paint. Needless to say, I am about to kill this guy who actually welded it. I told the store owner the gun was totally wrong and he said he would bring it back to the smith to fix, otherwise he would have the smith replace it. Here is my question, is it even possible to remove a welded on muzzlebrake? I do not want a screwed up colt barrel, and I'm terrified I'm gonna get screwed over and have to buy a new barrel and brake on my own dime. Also, when I originally dropped the gun off, I asked the gunshop to pin and weld the brake on. Now maybe I have a different version of "pin and weld" a brake, but isn't that pretty much universal for pin the brake and then put a small weld over it to make it permanent? Holy shit, I am beyond pissed right now. When you say fusion weld, do you mean that they welded around the entire circumference of the threaded end of the muzzle brake, and welded it to the barrel threads rather than welding the pin in to the muzzle brake? ---- SEND TO ADCO If my interpretation of what I wrote in red above is correct, then it sounds fucked. I'm not sure if ADCO could just rethread and recrown or if they would need to cut down the barrel in order to remove the portion of the threads that were welded. Either way, you muzzle brake is likely a goner. ---- SEND TO ADCO. BTW, did I mention that you should SEND TO ADCO to have this hack job fixed? |
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Is ADCO going to be able to removing the "refinishing" aka black spray paint all over the brake and last 3 inches of the barrel? Damnit, I am so friggin pissed off. Now I've got a mucked up Colt on my hands. Brother, your brake is probably destroyed. First of all, I recommend posting a thread in their industry section with a link to this thread so you can get their expert opinion. My guess is they will have to cut back the barrel and rethread and recrown. The muzzle brake will need to be replaced (which is really the least of your worries -- get the hack artist to replace it). If they do have to cut back the barrel, you will need to make sure your brake is long enough to bring you to 16". Good news is, you have been sort of forced into a shop service that people voluntarily pay to have done (barrel cut back to 14.5/14.7, then muzzlebrake pin/weld to bring to 16") |
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Go 14.5 with what you have. ADCO will tune it up for you, just make your shop pay for it. Cheaper for them, and I bet they would jump on that. Quoted:
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The more I think about it, I want to just call the shop back, tell them to speak to the smith about buying me a new barrel and brake, and send it straight to ADCO. I didn't think something this minor warranted being sent to ADCO, but holy shit, apparently it does. Incompetence. Should I even let this smith take another shot at "fixing" this? Or should I just ask for a replacement barrel/brake and send it off? Exactly this. It's not only preferable for you (you get a shorter barrel that people voluntarily pay for), it's cheaper for the shop as well. |
Where do you guys find these "gunsmiths"? Did they take some home 'smithing course on the web or from the back of a matchbook. Ask for his bonafides : Colorado school of trades, Pennsylvania school of gunsmithing. Ask to see some of his work, don't be bashful. I know a lot of you guys have custom cars ,and maybe do a lot of the work yourself, but I'll bet you wouldn't drop that ride off with any ol' shade tree that said "yeah, I'll make her look sweet". You would ask to see his work. Jesus do the same with your guns,
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Without seeing the weld , this could be an easy fix. The barrel can be chucked up in a lathe and the weld turned off. I don't know how deep the weld is or how hot he got the barrel..... but, the weld can be turned off and the break can be screwed off..... it sounds like he didn't weld over the pin?
Either way, the break can be removed, the threads cleaned up and a new break installed...... the one on there now is toast. Not the end of the world. My only concern would be how hot the idiot got the barrel and if he fucked up the bore at the weld point by overheating it. |
