User Panel
The answer is clear. Do it yourself, or take it somewhere else. Like you said, if he didn’t notice the problem he doesn’t know how to fix it.
|
|
DIY since you have the means. Set for either 11deg or 0 and cut from the bore out to the OD. Should only take you a few minutes to setup. Use a well honed HSS tool bit with a small radius on the cutter nose.
|
|
I have a personal policy about not allowing people to further fuck up something they already fucked up.
|
|
You can’t run the muzzle on a live or dead center without doing damage to the crown. Any amount of force on the corner will distort it.
If your lathe is big enough to put the barrel through the headstock and/or use the steady rest, recrown it youself. Sending it back to a gunsmith that lacks basic knowledge is asking for more trouble. |
|
|
He didn't do it right the first time so why would you trust him again?
|
|
|
I'd use a small sharp carbide boring bar and cut an 11° starting from the inside out. Small cuts. Shoot out the tiny burr.
|
|
Quoted: ...... I will not name the gunsmith as I am not going to publicly bash them, as everyone makes mistakes and he is offering to fix it. It just irks me a little that he will not admit to his mistake and denies it completely. That takes away my confidence in them. I will post up the pictures of the crown when I get home this afternoon. View Quote He's a commercial shop, does paid work, knows exactly how he fucked things up and is unwilling to own it. Whoever it is is a shitbag. Go ahead and publicly name them, I can guarantee you that he's fucked lots of other things up and the only reason he's still in business is because "everyone makes mistakes". Fucking bullshit. This shit more than "irks me a little". Fucker doesn't own up to it, fucker should be out of business. Yeah, I'm still pissed at Duncan's Gun Works in San Marcos, CA for fucking up that 1911 twenty five years ago. |
|
Quoted: I had a well-known Gunsmith in Huntsville fuck up a slide he was cutting for Novák sites. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: He didn't do it right the first time so why would you trust him again? I had a well-known Gunsmith in Huntsville fuck up a slide he was cutting for Novák sites. Stuff happens. I have seen that on a dovetail cut. I forget if the vice wasn’t tight enough or an axis wasn’t locked that should have been. Dovetail cut walked off line. . It’s how you handle it from there that is important. |
|
Quoted: Stuff happens. I have seen that on a dovetail cut. I forget if the vice wasn’t tight enough or an axis wasn’t locked that should have been. Dovetail cut walked off line. . It’s how you handle it from there that is important. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: He didn't do it right the first time so why would you trust him again? I had a well-known Gunsmith in Huntsville fuck up a slide he was cutting for Novák sites. Stuff happens. I have seen that on a dovetail cut. I forget if the vice wasn’t tight enough or an axis wasn’t locked that should have been. Dovetail cut walked off line. . It’s how you handle it from there that is important. He should have made it right. I sucked it up and will never use the guy again. |
|
|
Quoted: You could probably shoot out the burr or at least try . Do you know what the rifle was capable of before? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I'd use a small sharp carbide boring bar and cut an 11° starting from the inside out. Small cuts. Shoot out the tiny burr. You could probably shoot out the burr or at least try . Do you know what the rifle was capable of before? We don't know if it's a simple burr or mushrooming from over tightening the live center. A burr isn't a big deal but mushroomed steel could ruin his day. |
|
Quoted: I have a older bushmaster A2 rifle that was made during the ban, so it did not have a bayo lug and was not threaded. I sent it to a very highly recommended gunsmith to have a new FSB pinned and have it threaded. I get it back and everything looks great. I run a patch down to bore to clean out any dirt or crud that may have gotten in it and I noticed it would "stick" right at the muzzle requiring a extra push to make it go all the way through. I run a bore brush through it and another patch. It still "sticks". I notice the crown is not the same crown that was on it when I sent it. It looks like they faced the muzzle for some reason. I break out my bore cam and have a look. The very end of the rifling is damaged and the grooves has metal displaced into them from the muzzle. This makes a "ring" of a sorts around the muzzle. I am a hobby machinist and in no way a professional. I have a small lathe and can do some pretty good work with it, but I am not at the skill level needed to cut threads. However, the damage looks (to me) like damage from it being run on a dead center, possibly with no lube. That is about the best way I can describe it. I email the gunsmith and send him pictures taken with the bore cam. He claims he "never touched" the crown, (even though I can clearly see machine marks on it). However I do not have any pictures of the crown before I sent it. I do know my guns and I know this rifle never had any sort of damage to the crown before the threading. He denies doing the damage or having anything to do with it. He did however offer to recrown it for free if I sent it back to him. I inquire about how he does it, if he turns between centers and he says he does (that tells me right there the damage was done by a center). However he claims the centers have never done this before and says something about it might have had carbon buildup or some such. I can tell you it did not have any, cause it was a bare muzzle. The only time I get carbon buildup on a muzzle is on guns with muzzle brakes or flash hiders. He says he went to the shop and took a old barrel and tried to damage it with the centers and "could not" So my question, do I send it back to him (on my dime) and let him try and fix it. Otherwise I will fix it myself. I have been looking for a good excuse to buy a crowning tool, this might be it. My reason for hesitating is, if he did not take the time to inspect his work and make sure it was done right the first time, why should I trust him to do it another time? Turn around time was very fast, so I almost want to think he is just trying to rush them in and back out as fast as he can and not taking the time to inspect his work. I know in my job (mechanic) if I let a piece of equipment out of the shop that came back damaged or broken because of something I did, I would run a very high risk of losing my job. All work has to be inspected (by the person doing it) to make sure you did it right. I will not name the gunsmith as I am not going to publicly bash them, as everyone makes mistakes and he is offering to fix it. It just irks me a little that he will not admit to his mistake and denies it completely. That takes away my confidence in them. I will post up the pictures of the crown when I get home this afternoon. View Quote Just sayin'. |
|
|
|
Its ok to make a mistake OP, its how you correct it that's very telling.
this guy wont even admit that he did it,I hate liars and I doubt I would trust this guy to do it again. buy the tools and learn to do it yourself and you really should out this guy to save someone here from dealing with this clown. |
|
Quoted: We don't know if it's a simple burr or mushrooming from over tightening the live center. A burr isn't a big deal but mushroomed steel could ruin his day. View Quote See the pictures. This is mushrooming. I had to wait until I got home to upload the pictures from my computer. After reading the replies here, I have decided to fix it myself. I just do not want to deal with boxing it up again, paying to ship it again, then play the waiting game again and hope they fix it right. All while taking the risk it could get lost or damaged in the mail. Sad part is, is this gunsmith comes very highly recommended (on here). I am still not going to name them simply because they are offering to fix it, even though they will not admit they messed it up. If they would not admit to it AND not offer to fix, I would publicly name them. |
|
|
Quoted: See the pictures. This is mushrooming. I had to wait until I got home to upload the pictures from my computer. After reading the replies here, I have decided to fix it myself. I just do not want to deal with boxing it up again, paying to ship it again, then play the waiting game again and hope they fix it right. All while taking the risk it could get lost or damaged in the mail. Sad part is, is this gunsmith comes very highly recommended (on here). I am still not going to name them simply because they are offering to fix it, even though they will not admit they messed it up. If they would not admit to it AND not offer to fix, I would publicly name them. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: We don't know if it's a simple burr or mushrooming from over tightening the live center. A burr isn't a big deal but mushroomed steel could ruin his day. See the pictures. This is mushrooming. I had to wait until I got home to upload the pictures from my computer. After reading the replies here, I have decided to fix it myself. I just do not want to deal with boxing it up again, paying to ship it again, then play the waiting game again and hope they fix it right. All while taking the risk it could get lost or damaged in the mail. Sad part is, is this gunsmith comes very highly recommended (on here). I am still not going to name them simply because they are offering to fix it, even though they will not admit they messed it up. If they would not admit to it AND not offer to fix, I would publicly name them. You can buy tiny solid carbide boring bars on Amazon with a minimum bore size of .200". I have several that would work. Only take a few thousandths at a time working inside to out with the shortest extension you can get. Short is stiff. That most definitely looks like mushrooming. This would work but shorter would be better. Micro100 Even better. Another one |
|
Quoted: You can buy tiny solid carbide boring bars on Amazon with a minimum bore size of .200". I have several that would work. Only take a few thousandths at a time working inside to out with the shortest extension you can get. Short is stiff. That most definitely looks like mushrooming. This would work but shorter would be better. Micro100 Even better. Another one View Quote I have not decided if I will do it on my lathe, or buy one of THESE with a couple pilots for a few different calibers/rifle. I have been thinking about buying one for a while, as I have a few rifles in various calibers with some questionable crowns that do not lend themselves to being chucked up in the lathe because of the action size/shape. So this might be a good excuse to buy one. |
|
I ended up buying the brownells 11* cutter and pilots for 22 and 30 cal. I have a few other rifles with questionable crowns and no real easy way to chuck them up in my lathe. So I figured this would be a good test run.
The recrown was pretty simple. I had to trim a good bit off till I hit undamaged rifling. But I finally got it. I finally got the rifle back together last week and got to shoot it to zero it in today. Elevation was pretty simple with a few adjustments of the front sight post. However I had to crank a good bit of windage into the rear sight to get it hitting center. I never touched the windage adjustment from where it was before, so I know it is a good bit off from where it was. I think I had to give it somewhere around 10 clicks. Now my rear sight is almost touching the left side of the sight ear. So I assume the FSB is canted. I can eyeball down the top of the carry handle and it looks like it is just ever so slightly canted to the right. This just keeps getting better and better. I have not contacted the gunsmith yet. Kinda wondering if I should even bother. Not sure if I would ever want him to touch anything of mine ever again. So should I even bother trying to have fixed? I have a bad feeling it would cost more than it is worth to fix it right, now that is has already been drilled and pinned. Should I just deal with not having much windage adjustment and just live with it. After I got it zeroed I was keeping all shots in the 9 ring at 100 yards using some ammo I just threw together with some pulled SS109 bullets, and a thrown charge of 24.5 gr of H335. I'm sure the rifle can do much better with better ammo and a better shooter. I will be the first to admit I am far from a expert marksman with open sights. But I feel like it did pretty good. |
|
I'd not send it back, especially now that there is another problem. This could push you to name the guy, though. Sounds like a shitshow from jump. Highly recommended or not. That ruined crown was terrible, now this? Unacceptable. (Unless you got something off center when you fixed it??)
|
|
Quoted: I ended up buying the brownells 11* cutter and pilots for 22 and 30 cal. I have a few other rifles with questionable crowns and no real easy way to chuck them up in my lathe. So I figured this would be a good test run. The recrown was pretty simple. I had to trim a good bit off till I hit undamaged rifling. But I finally got it. I finally got the rifle back together last week and got to shoot it to zero it in today. Elevation was pretty simple with a few adjustments of the front sight post. However I had to crank a good bit of windage into the rear sight to get it hitting center. I never touched the windage adjustment from where it was before, so I know it is a good bit off from where it was. I think I had to give it somewhere around 10 clicks. Now my rear sight is almost touching the left side of the sight ear. So I assume the FSB is canted. I can eyeball down the top of the carry handle and it looks like it is just ever so slightly canted to the right. This just keeps getting better and better. I have not contacted the gunsmith yet. Kinda wondering if I should even bother. Not sure if I would ever want him to touch anything of mine ever again. So should I even bother trying to have fixed? I have a bad feeling it would cost more than it is worth to fix it right, now that is has already been drilled and pinned. Should I just deal with not having much windage adjustment and just live with it. After I got it zeroed I was keeping all shots in the 9 ring at 100 yards using some ammo I just threw together with some pulled SS109 bullets, and a thrown charge of 24.5 gr of H335. I'm sure the rifle can do much better with better ammo and a better shooter. I will be the first to admit I am far from a expert marksman with open sights. But I feel like it did pretty good. View Quote |
|
Using a center in a crown is not a "oops I fucked up. Everyone makes mistakes" incident.
It is a "I don't know what the fuck I'm doing and should not be working in other people's guns" sort of thing. |
|
Quoted: I ended up buying the brownells 11* cutter and pilots for 22 and 30 cal. I have a few other rifles with questionable crowns and no real easy way to chuck them up in my lathe. So I figured this would be a good test run. The recrown was pretty simple. I had to trim a good bit off till I hit undamaged rifling. But I finally got it. I finally got the rifle back together last week and got to shoot it to zero it in today. Elevation was pretty simple with a few adjustments of the front sight post. However I had to crank a good bit of windage into the rear sight to get it hitting center. I never touched the windage adjustment from where it was before, so I know it is a good bit off from where it was. I think I had to give it somewhere around 10 clicks. Now my rear sight is almost touching the left side of the sight ear. So I assume the FSB is canted. I can eyeball down the top of the carry handle and it looks like it is just ever so slightly canted to the right. This just keeps getting better and better. I have not contacted the gunsmith yet. Kinda wondering if I should even bother. Not sure if I would ever want him to touch anything of mine ever again. So should I even bother trying to have fixed? I have a bad feeling it would cost more than it is worth to fix it right, now that is has already been drilled and pinned. Should I just deal with not having much windage adjustment and just live with it. After I got it zeroed I was keeping all shots in the 9 ring at 100 yards using some ammo I just threw together with some pulled SS109 bullets, and a thrown charge of 24.5 gr of H335. I'm sure the rifle can do much better with better ammo and a better shooter. I will be the first to admit I am far from a expert marksman with open sights. But I feel like it did pretty good. View Quote It can be fixed. There are oversized tapered pins or just the next size up. The Smith might have to buy the reamer too, if he didn't already have it. The bbl and fsb has to be fixtured well because you are cutting partial holes. The reamer would be run in a collet and not a damn chuck. Should be somewhere 100 to 150 bucks. If it's less than that I'd be leery of a half assed job. The exception would be a shop that is set up to do fsb installs in production. Problem with that is such a shot is not likely to accept one off gunsmithing type jobs. |
|
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.