my grand pa used to sell Yamaha Generators...they were the tits.

Owned 2 Honda Eu3000IS for years. Great generators. My little HF 2200 inverter is good as well. Even the little Sportsman 1000 is fine.

Of the ones you listed, the Champion is probably best.  Mostly because it is the only one that supports connecting in parallel with another generator.  That will allow you the flexibility to get another one and potentially double your available power.

They'll say you can only connect it to an identical generator, but that's not exactly true.  They do need to have nearly identical rise rates and phase angles, which practically means that you'll be limited to a similar inverter from the same manufacturer (for example, Honda will say that you can only connect another EU2200i inverter-generator to an EU2200i, but I've seen plenty of reports that they will work with an EU7000i).  

Also, if you try to parallel an inverter generator with a non-inverter generator, you will probably not have a good time.

The dual fuel ones are good too.  Some will run if you connect natural gas at the propane inlet, but most will need you to connect a low pressure demand regulator connected next to the LP regulator (along with check valves or cutoff valves).  Or you may need to get a carburetor adapter so it will let you put a piece between the carb and engine to inject natural gas without drilling anything.  A basic 6 oz garretson regulator will cost about $75.  A full adapter kit with everything you need for your generator will cost $150-300.  If you're in a situation where you want electricity and have natural gas, but limited gasoline/propane and limited ability to get more (like a hurricane or big freeze) then either kit will be worth it.

Also note that these are 120 volt split-phase generators.  The frame ground is probably between the hot and neutral legs.  You will not be able to run 240 volt appliances, even a small AC (and yes there are plenty of window AC units and mini-splits that will run off a generator of that wattage at 240 volts).  If you're okay without air conditioning (or with small window units), no electric hot water, and no electric dryer, then 120 volts will be fine.

My daughter bought one last year, I will defiantly get a dual fuel one when I upgrade.

GREAT option, our power never went out from Ida but ALL the local gas stations have been out of gas for days but propane bottles are still available.


EDIT: I have an old Troybuilt 5550 watt generator that I bought after Katrina hit. It can run the fridge, two small window a/c units, led lights and two computers easily.
Yes the pc's are on GOOD surge protectors.

Last storm that knocked out power for a few days I never lost internet, cell tower nearby has a huge generator and fuel tank, since I used my phone as a hotspot and with the a/c I was nice and comfy surfing Arfcom.

I converted my 3500 inverter and 8750 smog machine to propane

Just remember to derate output by 15% or so.

This is the way.

I have everything from a tiny Honda eu1000i to a larger eu2000i to a whole house Generac that burns propane and runs the whole house.

The Generac works best when I have to do laundry or run the central A/C in the summer. It's transfer switch is automatic, and after grid power goes down it takes about ten seconds to fire up and kick in.

The downside is that propane is a finite resource and expensive in an emergency.

For extended outages I typically run a Honda eu2000i with a manual transfer switch. I use the manual switch to energize circuits as needed, being careful to stay within the power budget of the smaller unit.

Big generators are great, but they are thirsty.

ETA: In a grid down shit show like NOLA right now, management of consumables has to be your primary consideration.

You don't need an inverter gen for "CLEAN" power, but just like an inverter you will pay for those " less than 5% THD" generators.

If you wanna run AC fridge and electronics I suggest the xc8000e generac for a portable...

Many electronics have DC power supplies that aren't effected much by standard generators, but appliances not so much on direct 120v.

Yes, it is by itself the loudest small engine equipment I have ever experienced lol. It was the genny of choice back in 04 when we got 3 storms in 2 months. It just keeps on going.

First pull start is always a feelsgood.jpg

I give it a couple gullups if marvel mystery oil for every gallon of gas that goes in, it seems to like that.

I can't bring myself to spend the money on those big house systems. They definitely are awesome.

A good friend of mine (samoan) turned the power off at his home for a year when his kids were in HS. He wanted them to appriciate the modern conveniences and experience how he lived growing up. Good luck trying to teach your kids like that today.

They cooked on a fire in the back yard, did their homework  in the back yard before the sun went down....

I learned a lot just from the stories he would tell us and while it sounded fun I'm glad I wasn't there. Going primative for a few weeks with a few hrs of modern conveniences turned on to keep the fridge cold and freeze the house is good enough for me.

He was our lead at work, our keep the boss happy jokes were usually based on he'll turn the friggin power off if we don't get this shit done

Whole house is nice, but its an investment in the house itself and permanent. I preferred a portable in case we move or have flooding.

A Generac 7500 hasn't let me down.

Having juice when there is no juice for extended periods (days) is among the best feelings there is.

Freezer, fridge stays cool. Have lights, fans, chargers, washer, dryer. If you get 2 -3 days use out of one, you're ahead of the game.

Never thought about Generac whole house being "non-moveable" we were thinking about getting one.

Also, from my research it would cost a fortune to run one for two weeks, am I right?

So what is the biggest mobile generator we can get, and the best made one too.

We are out in the country and several times the power here has been out for two weeks or more.

Also this: We don't know shit about this stuff.

Help us out please!

I fire up the fridge on the Honda EU2000. Once it idles down from the fridge kicking off I run the deep freezer and the sump pump. Once both of those run I lock the freezer and leave it alone for 24 hours.  I pull up on the float and empty the sump then unplug the sump pump. If winter i leave the fridge and furnace plugged in. Summer just the fridge stays plugged in. The furnace runs on the EU2K as well. AC doesn't but i just gut it out here in Ohio. South Florida I might look into a bigger generator but up here you wouldn't melt without AC.

I just run cords rather than a transfer switch. Wife is an RN and understands critical loads. Lighting is all battery powered in an outage. I buy the flashlights that recharge in a plug in holder and kick on without power or when removed from the mount.

I have a champion inverter generator that does 3500 running watts and a conventional generator that has 220v. The conventional one can be used for our well pump and the champion for ac and freezers.

I recently bought a Powermate 2200 inverter generator.

I still have the 2500 watt open frame Coleman Powermate generator I bought about 15-20 years ago.  It has a 1 quart (yes quart) tank and will run an hour on that tank.

After hurricane Floyd, we lost power for 3 - 3.5 days.  I would run the generator for one hour cooling off the refrigerator/freezer combo, power a TV/VCR combo, a 5 watt CFL lamp, run a fan (luckily it was cool outside), and charge up a trolling battery.

When the generator died, I would plug the TV and Lamp into an inverter and run off the battery for about 2-3 hours.  At that point I would do the same thing, but hook up my freezer and cool it down.

The refrigerator/freezer and freezer would run for 2-3 times each and that did a great job keeping everything cold/frozen.

I used about 3 gallons of fuel for the entire outage and that includes lending the generator to a couple neighbors to cool off their refrigerator/freezers.

I did change the oil once or twice during the outage.

Cooking was on a two burner Coleman propane stove.

Other neighbors had larger generators (5000-7000 watt extended run) and they went through 10+ gallons a day.

I plan on doing the same thing using the new generator if the power goes out again and the inverter generator gets about 8 hours per gallon.

Biggest real difference is we had a gas water heater so we could take hot showers and with the electric water heater we now have, we would have to take cold showers.

In order to keep the generators in running condition, I use them around the yard to do yard work (electric trimmers, leaf blower, and small chainsaw).

You are correct. They are hellishly expensive to run continuously for extended periods.

Rather than thinking big, I'd rather think small. You don't have to run your fridge 24/7 to keep the ice cubes frozen, for example. For residential applications I'm a big fan of red or blue (Honda or Yamaha). For industrial/enterprise applications I tended to favor Cummins or Caterpillar diesels. There are plenty of other brands, but I don't know enough to suggest one

ETA: Again. managing the consumption of consumables is key. If you are juggling circuits with a smaller unit (or units) sticking to a power budget is vital. After the 1998 ice storm, we were without grid power, natural gas, and running water for nearly a month. My home became the de facto Red Cross shelter for the neighborhood. Neighbors would come over for a hot meal, a hot shower, or a warm place to lay their head. One neighbor had a massive 1.21 gigawatt hair dryer that I told her she couldn't use.

Well, she used it anyway. This overloaded my small Honda and shut it down. She did it more than once, and eventually the Honda stopped making power



Entitled bitch.

Honda EU2200i

No regrets ever and lived off of one in the jungle for months. Tv, freezer, water pumps.

My Wen 2k did great through the Texas freeze storm.  Powered the deep freeze, 2 fridges, and plenty of chargers.  No issues and sipped on the gas.

@ CJan_NH

Great info! Thanks, what is the biggest and best Honda or Yamaha we should consider?

Maybe you have time to post some links?

We've got central heat/AC, freezers, fridge, etc and we are in the middle of no where.

Floyd and Isabell both shut us down for over one month combined, not to mention the "little" ones since.

We're ready to order today!!! No joke, back then we were young and didn't mind being tough for a few weeks but now we're older and fuck all that Daniel Boone shit! Huh?

Thanks for the help!!!

ETA: Our house has a wrap around deck/porch with roof.
Could we leave a Honda/Yamaha out on the deck with a heavy military grade tarp on it during the winter until needed?

@RV-1

Honda makes a 10k watt portable with electric start, but the street price is five grand

Link

The biggest portable Honda I've owned was an EB5000xk1. It was thirsty and loud as hell, but it was dead nuts reliable.

An outdoor wraparound porch is good. I run my little eu2000i under an overturned Rubbermaid tote with holes cut out for ventilation. You'll want to keep your cable runs short and keep your Genset as close to your electrical panel and transfer switch as possible

Its a quiet lazy day here and I've got nothing but time. I can shoot you my phone number if you have more specific questions.

@ CJan_NH

I'm almost 70 and have never had a quiet day! LOL!!!

Thanks! You are the man!

But, I'm fucked again . . . our panel box is on the part of porch with no roof (we never finished that part) and the run to the covered part is maybe 20 feet or more, maybe 25 feet?

Is that too long for cable runs? Or just get a bunch of heavy extensions cords and use them thought the windows?

I do have more specific questions but need to think some before bugging you. I will send you my number, Thanks some more!

We got both over time. We went with the Predator 9000 in early spring and had a 30A transfer switch installed in late spring. The goal was to operate in a somewhat normal fashion except for the AC. Mostly we needed the furnace during the winter since winters here can be brutal. We tested while the electrician was here and everything worked fine: furnace, newer refrigerator, newer freezer, newer oven and all lights and ceiling fans. We have not tried running the computers and do not have TV or cable. We converted the Predator to tri-fuel and happen to have a BBQ NG port next to the generator connection on the patio, basically giving us unlimited run time except for resting, oil checks and maintenance. We were fortunate not to need an inverter type for our whole house needs. We also have a Yamaha IS2400 that is tri-fuel. This allows us to run anything that requires super clean power using the old extension cord mode.

We have used both units to run our shop, which has LP. Only takes a few minutes to re-tune from NG to LP. Whenever feasible we would recommend tri-fuel. Having all three fuel options is ideal since we also use gasoline when needing electricity far from the house or shop. We have been using the US Carburetion kits for many years now.

This is the way.

Especially for extended power outages or semi-offgrid use, as you can take one down at a time for service without losing all of your power.

@ Kanati

Dumb ass question coming here . . .

What is an inverter and why do I need one?

True question, really need to know.

Thanks!

Decent 2 minute video on the subject.



Inverters are quieter and more fuel efficient, and produce cleaner power, but they tend to be smaller and only able to produce 120v.

The one thing I would suggest to everyone before buying a generator (fueled or solar), is to do an energy audit on the items that you will want powered under the worst conditions you can think of.

This will allow you to know the maximum that you may need to power.

The example I've used is my deep freezer in the garage.  In the Spring, it was using around .68KWhr, but during the Summer with 95 degree days, it was using 2KWhr or about 3 times as much.

If I hadn't redone my audit, I would have been a world of hurt during an emergency as I wouldn't be able to power everything that I needed to power.

That's weird.  You can either handle the surge, and the running wattage, or you cant.  How often it cycles has almost zero bearing on my load calcs.  A deep freeze uses exactly the same amount at startup or running regardless of the ambient temps in my experience, it just might cycle on a lot more.  When I size, I size for maximum surge wattage at startup, and for running wattage, and then determine if I can handle everything starting up at once, or if I need to stagger things.  There are methods to manage this, but yes - an energy audit should be done.

These were my values.

5-ton furnace - 1000 W startup surge / 650 W run
2.5 ton furnace - 900 W startup surge / 420 W run
Coffee pot - 870 W
Fridge - 300 W startup surge / 160 W run
Toaster - 720 W per side
Phone charger - 14 W

Whenever I switch to the generator, I simply turned on each breaker/circuit individually, since my generator cannot handle everything starting at once, but it handles each cycling on their own randomly just fine.

In my examples above, my generator outputs 2520W on propane.  With both furnaces and both fridges spinning, I had about a 1500W load.  This left enough room for everything to cycle on and off without issue.... but when the coffee pot was on in the mornings, I was around 2400W running and I had to be careful to ensure my furnace thermostats were set high enough so they would not cycle when the coffee was on.  The generator would handle it, but it sure would struggle and I saw more voltage drop during that happening.

Sorry, left out the part about capacity/fuel.

My calculations were for a solar generator to figure out how long it would last.

I also added it in to my calculations on how much fuel I would need to add to my regular generator to power what was needed as it would be at higher load in the Summer vs Spring.

Now that makes a HUGE difference in the load planning!    Makes sense.

I had a cheap chinese generator for a good long while.  It never let me down and I spent weeks on it, but I do not in any way regret spending the loot for a good Yamaha to replace it.  Shitty emergency supplies stand a real good chance of making a bad time a lot worse.

You probably caught the freezer when it was in a defrost mode. During the defrost cycle, it energizes electric heat elements to burn off the frost on the inside of the freezer. This takes a lot more juice than just running the compressor. I think this cycle happens every 24 hours of on-time. It seems like 12 years ago, there were a few threads in the Survival Forum on folks installing a toggle switch, so they could turn this defrosting off for generator use.

Generac 22Kw on automatic switch panel. Fuck picking and choosing what I want to run. The whole damn house is staying on.

We always lose cell but Fiber has been good for internet as far as reliability. I guess because it doesn't carry power, it ends up being pretty solid.



For the kit I bought, it says that there is little to no output for gas/propane/NG. You manually adjust a fuel input screw (I bought a little RPM meter) and I can match RPMs with a 1" natural gas line. I don't know if you would have to have a way to measure RPM drop with a specific load requirement, but it seems to me to have pretty close results. Maybe with the non-factory kits, you can increase fuel input to match output?



I converted my bigger inverter generator with the US carb kit but left the small one as gas only, mainly because the conversion is kind of big and I'm less likely to use it at home. Of course, I always have gas on hand and at 1ga/11hr, it takes a while to go through even 10gal while only running at night.

Everyone who checked my kit out was pretty amazed. They are all freaking out about the lack of fuel in south LA, and I'm unlimited until some sort of NG leak. I bet 5+ friends have bought one in two weeks.

Been screwing with my new Honda 3000 all day. Pretty cool piece of kit.

Initial plan was to be able to run central heat and a small appliance or two in the event of a winter outage. I started looking at all sorts of things in the house and realized I could run my window A/C for about $12/day in the summer.

Worth it.

My personal experiences have been posted in most of the generator threads on this site.  They seem to contradict a few comments from other members, so I will describe what results I have obtained.

I have a Predator 3500 converted to tri fuel with a kit from Nash Fuel.  I run it exclusively on natural gas now, but it will also perform on gasoline and I have set it up in the past for propane.  All three fuels give approximately the same power output.  The claim of lower watts from other than gasoline do not hold true for me.  I have posted pictures of the 3500 meter with outputs of over 2900 watts on natural gas, and it is rated for 3000 watts continuous on gasoline.  

I also have an AiPower SUA2000id dual fuel genny.  I run it on propane exclusively, and on gasoline the rating is 2000w peak, 1600 continuous, and I see it pulling a 1600w load measured with a Kil A Watt meter without any overload indicator or stalling.

I run these two in parallel whenever I need power, and they pose no issues after dozens of hours feeding my house panel.  I have also run the 3500 in parallel with another gasoline only inverter without any issues.  The parallel panel connections are all I use for this, no kit required.

I run both gensets monthly under load in parallel with the 3500 on natural gas and the AiPower on propane for 30-45 minutes for my peace of mind.  I have measured the loads I use with the Kil A Watt meter on city power and the measurement matches what the generators provide.

I will try and answer any questions you may have about my equipment and procedures for this gear.

I have 2 Generac IQ2000 (older model) that I can run in parallel. They're okay, but I'm not over the moon with them.

My parents run 2 of the WEN 2000 watt generators and love them, they had trouble with Ryobi.

The harbor freight units are quiet - I think they're really all about the same unless you go for the Honda or Yamaha. I'd buy the WEN units if I were doing it again.

For those considering a dual fuel 2K "Suitcase" genset, the AiPower SUA 2000id is currently $405 with free shipping on Walmart.com.  I have one and it runs fine.  My brother in law also bought one and has had no problems either.  I have never put gasoline in mine and hope I never need to.  Costco has sold AiPower units off & on, but their version claimed to have a Yamaha branded engine.  I personally suspect little, if any difference.

If you want to run a central a/c- forced air heater you probably need something like a generac whole house generator.   Alternatively you could plan around using kerosene or propane heaters - google "big buddy heater" and fans or a small window a/c to keep the bedroom cool.   Someone previously suggested the honda 2000 watt inverter generators.  These are great because you can daisy chain two of them for a bigger load.   They produce clean power that should run your fridge and electronics without trouble.  

When the power goes out around here I set my generators up on my back deck an run long extension cords into the kitchen and living room.  The downside is there are cables all over for you to trip over but we have never really had a problem.     Fun fact: if you run an extension cord to your cable modem and router you can often have tv and internet.    Last power outage we were watching cable tv, surfing the internet, had cold drinks with ice cubes, lights and a fan.  Didn't bother putting in the window a/c because it wasn't that hot out.  

I have a small inverter generator just for electronics and a bigger one for the fridge, fans and a/c.

Did it come with cables to simul run with your predator?   Or separate item? @draver

Yes, here is what was listed on the box.



I used WEN parallel cables I got from Amazon which are heavier gauge and longer though.  This link will not post so here is the item to search for on Amazon.  $12.38 with free Prime shipping.

WEN GNA25i 25-Amp 3000-Watt Parallel Kit Connection Cord

Perfect, nice price too.  Thanks for the tip.  I have the predator 3500 setup on natural gas, so looking for a second backup gen.