Originally Posted By FlashMan-7k:

From the video, that seems less like a hybrid problem, and more like a "they were stupid enough to make the engine start-stop in driving conditions" problem.

Originally Posted By PhuzzyGnu:
Yeah since the first Prius Toyota has made over 30 million hybrids.  They just haven't figured them out yet. You can't drive through any major city without seeing 6 or 10 on the side of the road broken down.

Originally Posted By urbankaos04:
@Foxtrot08

What do you think about Mobil 1’s hybrid specific oil? Supposedly the formulation addresses the issue of hybrid engines not getting hot enough to burn off moisture that can build up in the engine due to lower operating temps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eC5FFoCq4s

Originally Posted By Gator96:
Just had a shop do a cam swap and dod delete on my 2017 L83 5.3L. I only ran Mobil 1 0W-20 through it stock. They put Lucas hot rod and classic conventional in it and said change after 1k miles. Said use 5W-30 here on out. IDK.  Another guy said use 15W-30 for another 1k miles with Lucas oil treatment replacing a quart for another 1k miles then go to 5W-30. Seems dumb. Why not go straight back to regular oil changes after 1k miles? Just a stage 1 cam and headers.

Originally Posted By Foxtrot08:



Just go with 5w30.

That’s my .02 on it.   Lucas oil stabilize is a scam. It’s straight 50w.

So pick your favorite 5w30 and go with it.

Originally Posted By Eat_Beef:
I recently picked up a 1987 Lincoln SA 200 welding machine.  I have zero information on what oil is in it, or how it has been maintained.  It runs and welds like a top.  I'd like to change the oil.  From the internet, it looks like I can use anything from 30wt to 15-40.  

What's your suggestion?  I was thinking of going with supertech 10w 30?  I'm on the Texas Gulf Coast, so 30* is about as cold as it gets.

Originally Posted By Foxtrot08:



Overall, I feel like this is more “marketing” than reality. The dwell time isn’t enough for water to really drop out and additives to keep it dropped won’t really work.

Having added R&O additives are something you could do. But it’s not a big difference. And you’re fighting for space on surface area.

So over all it’s sorta… eh?  I guess?  But nothing I can tell from a product data sheet or UOA.  I don’t know there’s enough “need” as 0w16 / 0w8 formulations are already basically “hybrid” formulations. So I think they just slapped that on a GF6 / GF7 B oil and shipped it.

There’s some things you can swap around that *may* be beneficial, but it’s a stretch.

I’d rather see a hydroscopic filter to grab the moisture.

Originally Posted By Into_the_Void:
Do you have access to data sheets from Mobil that are possibly more detailed than an MSDS?

We are testing multiple sensors that get wetted by a Mobil product.  The sensors should be able to survive.  Even off the shelf designed for purpose sensors have died.  This specific oil is murdering them.

Originally Posted By zlman:
I think @Foxtrot mentioned his preferred oil analysis service but I can't find it. I know Blackstone exists but I thought he mentioned another. Anyone remember?

Originally Posted By zlman:
I think @Foxtrot mentioned his preferred oil analysis service but I can't find it. I know Blackstone exists but I thought he mentioned another. Anyone remember?

Originally Posted By FedDC:
Any thoughts on the new Mobil 1 Advanced Clean, as a direct competitor to Valvoline Restore and Protect?  


The Mobil 1 product is substantially more expensive at the retail level.

Originally Posted By UncleRemis:
I recently bought a used bmw  with the 4.4 twin turbo v8 and it calls for 0w40 synthetic. I have ton of mobile one 0w40 super car.

I’m sure it would be fine but I don’t want to void the warranty. Is this oil compatible with the bmw x5 m50i?

Originally Posted By Detached:
I don't use anything but the best in my equipment.  Union Carbide or Bust .    Found these going through my Dad's things.     Probably needs to be sent off to Blackstone for testing.

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/167306/IMG_20260222_122401291_HDR_jpg-3717780.JPGhttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/167306/IMG_20260222_122410312_MF_PORTRAIT_jpg-3717781.JPG

Originally Posted By PA22-400:
Foxtrot08 this thread has been a bunch of fun
Thank You

Do you know of any gas brand or refinery that is more dense than others.  

Back when Boeing was setting some distance records with the 777 the flight planners went to some effort to get the most weight of fuel into the volume of tank in the airplane.  More pounds per gallon = more MPG

I'm looking at doing some distance driving and thinking that some extra miles per tank full might be nice .  The car needs premium.

Originally Posted By lorazepam:
Why the hell is 4T 10w60 so dang expensive? It is what is called for for my Moto Guzzi air cooled V twin. It has a separate gear box, and dry clutch, so it just lubes the engine.

Originally Posted By Deerhurst:
Any thoughts on supercharger oils?


All I know is the stuff I drained made the shop smell like some unwashed dirty hippy butthole for about 2 days. It's was bad. Could smell it outside the shop.

Originally Posted By zbrane:
I used to change my 2014 5.0 Mustang's oil whenever the computer said, however I don't drive it much anymore.  

Is there a time & mile guideline that can be used that's longer than what the car wants?  Should I switch to full synthetic if I want to play around with longer intervals?  

I'm currently at 2 years and 2k miles on Motorcraft's 50/50 blend.

Originally Posted By lorazepam:
Why the hell is 4T 10w60 so dang expensive? It is what is called for for my Moto Guzzi air cooled V twin. It has a separate gear box, and dry clutch, so it just lubes the engine.

Originally Posted By Foxtrot08:



Gucci low production, custom formulation, put into a Gucci package.  

A 10w60 is going to naturally be a heavily PAO & ester formulation. Which is going to punt it up into the $20 a gallon price range just to blend.  

Add in an expensive additive package for it to be 4T.  

Add in very low production levels.  

Then add in packaging and shipping costs of a boutique product.  Which is probably more than the cost of the product.

And then retailers get to add their 40-50% on top of it.

Originally Posted By ReConnie:
The 500k oil thread got me thinking about a video that popped up on YT recently, The video basically called synthetic manufacturers liars for calling their synthetics...synthetics, when really they are not. It said they weren't PAO's, so they lie. Castrol was the worst offender. I didn't watch it all, sounded pretty sketchy.

Originally Posted By Foxtrot08:



So Castrol / BP and XOM (Mobil) had a lawsuit over this, I believe in 1999. But don’t quote me on that. Sometime in the 90s.


Mobil, claimed that BP’s use of group 3 base oils wasn’t “synthetic.”

TL;DR -

The court ruled, that “synthetic” is a marketing term.  Because, it’s all man made.  


Primarily because the SAE refused to step into the debate. And stepped all definitions out of their guidelines.

The STLE, which I’m a member of, defines synthetics as man-made compounds, not naturally occurring, and that combining low-molecular-weight materials via chemical reaction into higher-molecular-weight structures makes these products.

So, by that technical term. Yes. Group 3s are no where near naturally occurring. And require a chemical reaction to make.

So do PAOs and Esters.


The other problem, is the API wrote themselves into a corner with the 5 base oil groups.  By making group 3s different than group 2s.  And group 4s only PAOs. Then lumping everything else into group 5s. There’s no where to really go with technically different products. They just get lumped in.




There are both positive arguments for group 3s. And also PAOs.

In Europe, it’s primarily a PAO driven market because they still have different “grades” of oils.  And the only way to hit the highest “grade” is with PAOs, essentially.

Until recently, you couldn’t hit a lot of European specs without PAOs even.  But with GTL group 3 base oils and advanced group 3s coming from other sources, you can.


Another TL;DR - the industry does a really bad job at explaining all this shit.


Things are advancing all the time. Formulations are constantly changing. Base oils are constantly changing. Additive packages are constantly changing.

But 99.995% of people would never know. It’s even a lot for me to keep up with, and this is literally what I do as a job, full time.  

Today’s group 3 products would blow the doors off the 90’s PAO synthetics.  

It’s just a change.  


But, today’s PAO / Ester / AN blends - the super boutique stuff - are nutty. Like, I ran redline euro 5w30 in my raptor for over 18,000 miles.  And it was just dirty from dust. Viscosity was fine. Oxidation was fine.  But my filter literally was at capacity.


However.  $300 oil change vs $30 oil change.

You could change your oil 5x more.  And still save money.

The only real argument for super synthetics are specialized applications. Wind turbine gear boxes.  Industrial air compression. Modern worm gear boxes.  Stuff that runs tens of thousands of hours. Or is a major pain to change oil out.

In a car?

Change your oil. Use whatever brand you like, in the proper viscosity.

Originally Posted By victorgonzales:
My  2005 Tahoe gets slight lifter tick at idle when the oil get about 3000 miles on it.  Mind you the wife sits and idles the thing 30-45 minutes per weekday waiting to pick the kid.up from school.    Oil life usually reads about 50% on the dash when this starts happening.    I use 5w30 full synthetic. When I change the oil it goes away.

My question is would a change in oil weight help this ?  It's never cold in Phoenix so cold start probably not an issue but would 40 weight be better for her sitting and idling in 115 degree temps? Or just keep changing the oil more often?  

Tahoe has 125k miles btw. The vehicle spends more time hot idle than actually driving probably.

Originally Posted By FedDC:



I wonder if oil analysis would show fuel dilution causing that.  Maybe worth sending a sample to check.

Originally Posted By First-World-Problems:
Would you happen to know if this would be ok to run in an old bobcat? It has a gas Wisconsin VH4D engine. People run All kinds of oil in them, and The only thing I can find is a few places said to use regular Dino oil only.

https://i.imgur.com/Ghm4Ap0_d.webp?maxwidth=760&fidelity=grand

Originally Posted By JRambo:
Should you shake your oil jug before you pour it in?

Originally Posted By victorgonzales:
My  2005 Tahoe gets slight lifter tick at idle when the oil get about 3000 miles on it.  Mind you the wife sits and idles the thing 30-45 minutes per weekday waiting to pick the kid.up from school.    Oil life usually reads about 50% on the dash when this starts happening.    I use 5w30 full synthetic. When I change the oil it goes away.

My question is would a change in oil weight help this ?  It's never cold in Phoenix so cold start probably not an issue but would 40 weight be better for her sitting and idling in 115 degree temps? Or just keep changing the oil more often?  

Tahoe has 125k miles btw. The vehicle spends more time hot idle than actually driving probably.

Originally Posted By victorgonzales:
My  2005 Tahoe gets slight lifter tick at idle when the oil get about 3000 miles on it.  Mind you the wife sits and idles the thing 30-45 minutes per weekday waiting to pick the kid.up from school.    Oil life usually reads about 50% on the dash when this starts happening.    I use 5w30 full synthetic. When I change the oil it goes away.

My question is would a change in oil weight help this ?  It's never cold in Phoenix so cold start probably not an issue but would 40 weight be better for her sitting and idling in 115 degree temps? Or just keep changing the oil more often?  

Tahoe has 125k miles btw. The vehicle spends more time hot idle than actually driving probably.

Originally Posted By lufthansa:


Partner, does your 50% usually occur over 6 months on the oil?

Originally Posted By Foxtrot08:



There's alot of mechanical reasons that could lead to the tapping.

As for the oil, it would have to be shearing substantially. But your oil monitor should take the idle time into account.  


That being said, an oil analysis would be a cheap way to tell if you're getting fuel dilution,  or if the oil is shearing down. As that would be two reasons why the ticking begins.

Otherwise, it may be as simple as a worn out oil pump. That just isn't pushing the right GPM at idle. Or maybe just a little bit of varnish build up on the lifters that's leading to a little bit of interference ticking. Etc.