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Posted: 6/25/2015 12:30:31 PM EDT
When we built our house, we included a balcony which was covered in fiberglass.
A different contractor seemed to have put a screw somewhere he shouldn't have, which led to water intrusion.
The guy who did the fiberglass came back and did whatever he needed but he screwed up something and now it tacky.
As his family builds fiberglass boats ( One of his helpers told me this is the first and last fiberglass job he did) he says his uncle will be coming by to try to "paint. wax and catalyst over it".
If this will fix my problem, I'm happy.
If this is some kind of fix to get them out of here, I'm not happy and will need to make a plan to prevent me from being screwed 2 years down the road.
Opinions? Options?
Thanks.
Link Posted: 6/25/2015 4:38:40 PM EDT
When we fiberglassed the coke machine we're refurbishing, the final layer of resin got mixed with a surface curing agent (here is the curing agent for the brand of resin we used). It made a major difference in the feel of the surface.



That might or might not be what's needed based on the type of resin your contractor used...
Link Posted: 6/25/2015 6:15:19 PM EDT
It sounds like he used a resin without wax.  It dries to a tacky touch.  The reason you use this type of resin, is so you do not have to sand between coats.  It should be fine once painted and cure to 100%.

Link Posted: 6/25/2015 10:11:56 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
It sounds like he used a resin without wax.  It dries to a tacky touch.  The reason you use this type of resin, is so you do not have to sand between coats.  It should be fine once painted and cure to 100%.

View Quote


Thank You.
Link Posted: 6/25/2015 10:16:36 PM EDT
If he's bringing over catalyst they probably think he didn't add enough catalyst/hardener to the resin to cure it..
Link Posted: 6/26/2015 3:02:14 AM EDT
Sounds legit. I have done a couple hundred square feet of fiber glass work.


From what i hear, The wax floats to the surface and allows the bottom layers to cure hard.

Of you are doing multiple layers, you want it to be tacky. Saves you some sandin .
Link Posted: 6/26/2015 4:13:22 AM EDT
Of course, if he used a small amount of left-over resin he had stored in a can somewhere that had exceeded its shelf life, you may find out it never cures.
Link Posted: 6/30/2015 10:49:22 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Of course, if he used a small amount of left-over resin he had stored in a can somewhere that had exceeded its shelf life, you may find out it never cures.
View Quote


Yeah. I'm expecting him to not do it right but I have no experience in these matters.
I guess I'll just be screwed in a couple of years.
Link Posted: 6/30/2015 11:19:00 PM EDT
Tacky down deep usually means not enough hardener or old resin.  Try wiping it down with a rag wet with lacquer thinner and see if the surface is hard after it dries.  Back when I was doing glass work on my car I would wipe down the glass after it cured if it was still stickey.  Once the top was clean it wouldn't clog sand paper.

I made a form for a fan shroud out of Sheetrock, covered it with "Press 'n Seal" kitchen wrap, and layered up cloth and mat and sanded to shape. I think it's the only thing I did on the entire car project my wife actually took an interest in watching.  She loves the smell of fiberglass resin. Says it reminds her of her childhood and riding in the family boat.
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