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Posted: 10/1/2018 8:03:57 PM EDT
[#1]
I made a rifle with a Dremel and a hacksaw, just means lots of cutting wheels.
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Posted: 10/1/2018 8:38:45 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No, b/c I lacks welding skilz.  After googling...I didn't realize the m9 was a bolt Tang. An m7 has an actual tang, the scales are bolt/screwed on and the clamp pommel thingy is peened on. So get a replica m7 and dismantle it. Get the long bladed stabby stabby of your choice and dismantle it's handle. Us the m7 as a template and scribe it's tang outline and transfer the screw jokes onto the tang of the long blade. Then grind it and drill it. To peen the m7 pommel on you will just have to anneal a little nub on the new blade with a torch. |
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Posted: 10/1/2018 8:40:59 PM EDT
[#3]
I think arfcom breaks eBay links so cut and paste and remove the space after ebay.
ebay. com/itm/New-M7Bayonet-Knife-Pommel/172540121362?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D37b56b81abe34af096fd2e6cd9b75985%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D192653582234%26itm%3D172540121362&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A4925c8ca-c5dc-11e8-b8d5-74dbd1800db4%7Cparentrq%3A323b89201660aca4ac6e0be3fff346f1%7Ciid%3A1 |
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Posted: 10/1/2018 10:04:56 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I would think all you need is some grinding and drilling skills. After googling...I didn't realize the m9 was a bolt Tang. An m7 has an actual tang, the scales are bolt/screwed on and the clamp pommel thingy is peened on. So get a replica m7 and dismantle it. Get the long bladed stabby stabby of your choice and dismantle it's handle. Us the m7 as a template and scribe it's tang outline and transfer the screw jokes onto the tang of the long blade. Then grind it and drill it. To peen the m7 pommel on you will just have to anneal a little nub on the new blade with a torch. 1) Should've bought some of those M7s I saw @ the show yesterday for $40. 2) Buy an M1942 replica. Take both apart. 3) Drill holes through the 1942 blade tang for the M7 grip screws. 4) Reassemble as an anachronistic M1942/M7 bayonet mashup. Have some weld the tip of the M1942 tang to the M7 pommel. |
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Posted: 10/1/2018 10:10:08 PM EDT
[#5]
the way I planned on doing my mini sword bayonet with a leather washer handle
extend the tang place the washers Use the pommel from the link above and peen the extended tang If you were doing a standard size you would not need to extend the tang |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 5:15:20 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So - if I'm understanding this correctly: 1) Should've bought some of those M7s I saw @ the show yesterday for $40. 2) Buy an M1942 replica. Take both apart. 3) Drill holes through the 1942 blade tang for the M7 grip screws. 4) Reassemble as an anachronistic M1942/M7 bayonet mashup. Have some weld the tip of the M1942 tang to the M7 pommel. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: I would think all you need is some grinding and drilling skills. After googling...I didn't realize the m9 was a bolt Tang. An m7 has an actual tang, the scales are bolt/screwed on and the clamp pommel thingy is peened on. So get a replica m7 and dismantle it. Get the long bladed stabby stabby of your choice and dismantle it's handle. Us the m7 as a template and scribe it's tang outline and transfer the screw jokes onto the tang of the long blade. Then grind it and drill it. To peen the m7 pommel on you will just have to anneal a little nub on the new blade with a torch. 1) Should've bought some of those M7s I saw @ the show yesterday for $40. 2) Buy an M1942 replica. Take both apart. 3) Drill holes through the 1942 blade tang for the M7 grip screws. 4) Reassemble as an anachronistic M1942/M7 bayonet mashup. Have some weld the tip of the M1942 tang to the M7 pommel. |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 5:44:05 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No welding. Shape the tang of the 1942 to match the tang of the M7. Install M7 parts on 1942. Peen the tang to hold parts in place. You can find M7s online for $25-30. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted: I would think all you need is some grinding and drilling skills. After googling...I didn't realize the m9 was a bolt Tang. An m7 has an actual tang, the scales are bolt/screwed on and the clamp pommel thingy is peened on. So get a replica m7 and dismantle it. Get the long bladed stabby stabby of your choice and dismantle it's handle. Us the m7 as a template and scribe it's tang outline and transfer the screw jokes onto the tang of the long blade. Then grind it and drill it. To peen the m7 pommel on you will just have to anneal a little nub on the new blade with a torch. 1) Should've bought some of those M7s I saw @ the show yesterday for $40. 2) Buy an M1942 replica. Take both apart. 3) Drill holes through the 1942 blade tang for the M7 grip screws. 4) Reassemble as an anachronistic M1942/M7 bayonet mashup. Have some weld the tip of the M1942 tang to the M7 pommel. |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 8:07:32 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No welding. Shape the tang of the 1942 to match the tang of the M7. Install M7 parts on 1942. Peen the tang to hold parts in place. You can find M7s online for $25-30. |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 1:49:36 PM EDT
[#9]
Guys, don't forget the guard and muzzle ring!
Just seems like a lot of comments are fixated on the rear fixture and are forgetting there's a muzzle ring that has to fit over the flash suppressor. |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 1:50:47 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I can do that. Thank you, Josh. That's very helpful. And gives me an excuse for a bench grinder. 
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Posted: 10/2/2018 1:53:10 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Guys, don't forget the guard and muzzle ring! Just seems like a lot of comments are fixated on the rear fixture and are forgetting there's a muzzle ring that has to fit over the flash suppressor. |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 1:54:31 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I can do that. Thank you, Josh. That's very helpful. And gives me an excuse for a bench grinder. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
No welding. Shape the tang of the 1942 to match the tang of the M7. Install M7 parts on 1942. Peen the tang to hold parts in place. You can find M7s online for $25-30. |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 2:00:27 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Guys, don't forget the guard and muzzle ring!
Just seems like a lot of comments are fixated on the rear fixture and are forgetting there's a muzzle ring that has to fit over the flash suppressor. If it's too big, then I have to make the tang fit - or the hole in the guard larger, which will take longer. Think SARCO had some originals and some repros, will look there. Anyone know of a lightweight profile 24" bbl? Or longer?  All I'm finding is bulls in 22-24".
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Posted: 10/2/2018 3:41:15 PM EDT
[#14]
As a fyi drilling new holes without special bits might be nearly impossible depending on how hard the knife is
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Posted: 10/2/2018 4:10:30 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: As a fyi drilling new holes without special bits might be nearly impossible depending on how hard the knife is I also have superglue if that doesn't work. |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 4:13:37 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I haz propane torch? I can remove temper? Given I'm gonna use a repro, not expecting super hard steel on the tang. I also have superglue if that doesn't work. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: As a fyi drilling new holes without special bits might be nearly impossible depending on how hard the knife is I also have superglue if that doesn't work. |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 4:13:48 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I haz propane torch? I can remove temper? Given I'm gonna use a repro, not expecting super hard steel on the tang. I also have superglue if that doesn't work. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: As a fyi drilling new holes without special bits might be nearly impossible depending on how hard the knife is I also have superglue if that doesn't work. 
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Posted: 10/2/2018 4:20:59 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sometime this winter I will make this a bayonet for my 16 inch carbine gas rifle https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/177890/IMG_20180806_210433-632362.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/177890/IMG_20180806_210441-632364.JPG |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 4:23:33 PM EDT
[#19]
Looking @ SARCO's 1905 bayonet kit:
Don't think I can just cut this down and bang on M7 parts. |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 4:38:12 PM EDT
[#20]
Don't have any pics of this finished but for inspiration
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Posted: 10/2/2018 4:57:22 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
We should be friends. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Sometime this winter I will make this a bayonet for my 16 inch carbine gas rifle https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/177890/IMG_20180806_210433-632362.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/177890/IMG_20180806_210441-632364.JPG |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 4:58:45 PM EDT
[#22]
.
I've got a M1905 16 inch bladed M7 bayonet somewhere. A friend put it together for me as a joke. |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 5:02:02 PM EDT
[#23]
I think I would spend the extra $$ and start with a whole bayonet. Unless you can weld the 30 or so extra bucks seems worth it to me
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Posted: 10/2/2018 5:09:52 PM EDT
[#24]
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Posted: 10/2/2018 5:31:53 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Type 30 should work well. https://www.atlantacutlery.com/arisaka-type-30-bayonet-with-scabbard |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 5:38:07 PM EDT
[#26]
Ir if th size is close possibly swap out the pommels and possibly make a new handle or reuse the original if that works
Eta you also have to make a bareel ring or whatever that is called |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 5:38:19 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryThat is gorgeous !!!!! Then I saw who made it and I was no longer surprised
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Posted: 10/2/2018 5:49:39 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So I'll need to grind down all the outside until it matches the M7 tang? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Type 30 should work well. https://www.atlantacutlery.com/arisaka-type-30-bayonet-with-scabbard |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 5:52:42 PM EDT
[#29]
I think I'd be happy with just an OKC3S.
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Posted: 10/2/2018 6:48:01 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Take the handle, pommel, and guard off of both first. Then trace the M7 tang onto the new blade. Grind away, check frequently for fit. |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 6:50:04 PM EDT
[#31]
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Posted: 10/2/2018 6:58:51 PM EDT
[#32]
If you plan on using that by just grinding a handle on the finished blade it it will be hard to match stuff up with the blood grooves and bevel.
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Posted: 10/2/2018 7:01:33 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you plan on using that by just grinding a handle on the finished blade it it will be hard to match stuff up with the blood grooves and bevel. |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 7:05:45 PM EDT
[#34]
If you are going to all that work I would buy a blade blank off amazon or ebay that has the dimensions you want. I think silver soldering that much would ruin the temper.
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Posted: 10/2/2018 7:09:41 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ohhhh. So the Sarco repro M1905 blades would do. Be shorter than a M1905, but a lot longer than anything else. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Take the handle, pommel, and guard off of both first. Then trace the M7 tang onto the new blade. Grind away, check frequently for fit. |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 7:22:33 PM EDT
[#36]
That arisaka bayos pommel is a fixed part of the tang, I think, it would have to be cut off and the m7 tang would be partially ground out of the blade.
I kinda like this,should be plenty of meat in the tang for what u want to do. |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 7:42:46 PM EDT
[#37]
 
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Posted: 10/2/2018 10:30:59 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOoooooh. Pretty.
Chop it off & grind it to fit. In addition to bayonet and bbl questions, this will become a Which bench grinder should I buy @ Harbor Freight thread... Also, my gun room will be covered in steel filings... |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 10:35:36 PM EDT
[#39]
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Posted: 10/2/2018 11:13:29 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote History |
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Posted: 10/2/2018 11:46:49 PM EDT
[#41]
After I posted that I started looking @ sword blanks on Amazon. I think what I need is a Chinese sword blank. Straight, single-edged, and relatively thin.
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Posted: 10/3/2018 12:28:35 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryWho made that?
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Posted: 10/3/2018 11:52:49 AM EDT
[#43]
Good news! FIL going to give his granddaughter an old Mauser pigsticker, and fabricate a lug for it. Still looking for a 22-24” pencil bbl if anyone knows where to find one.
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Posted: 10/3/2018 12:22:41 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Who made that? Quote HistoryQuoted:
If I had to guess I would say he did... 
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Posted: 10/3/2018 12:49:28 PM EDT
[#45]
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Posted: 10/3/2018 5:46:05 PM EDT
[#46]
Ok, so one of my LGS would be more than happy to custom order me a lightweight 24" 1:9" twist bbl for $300 - it'll just take 10-16 weeks, which puts us past Christmas.
Their alternative is to order in a 24" stainless bull, and it'll be up around $150 in machine time to cut it down - and they'd hope to have it done by Christmas, not leaving enough time for my FIL to get the bayonet lug on. Not their fault. |
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Posted: 10/3/2018 6:32:48 PM EDT
[#47]
Something to consider if you go with the longer barrel the handle of the bayonet would have to be extended otherwise you will not have the ring part on the muzzle device and it will be all floppy. If you go with a 20 inch barrel and rifle length port it will work as originally designed.
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Posted: 10/3/2018 6:40:19 PM EDT
[#48]
20" with FSB would be your best bet. And please go with something other than a cast plastic lower. Hell I'll send you forged 80% if you can find a way to finish it.
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Posted: 10/3/2018 7:43:08 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Something to consider if you go with the longer barrel the handle of the bayonet would have to be extended otherwise you will not have the ring part on the muzzle device and it will be all floppy. If you go with a 20 inch barrel and rifle length port it will work as originally designed. https://savannaharsenal.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/m4-16-inch-barrel-bayonet-problem.jpg?w=800 |
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Posted: 10/3/2018 7:44:16 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
20" with FSB would be your best bet. And please go with something other than a cast plastic lower. Hell I'll send you forged 80% if you can find a way to finish it. |
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