Posted: 10/16/2006 1:53:44 AM EDT
|
Is there a way to secure half inch copper pipe to a slip coupling without sweat soldering? The joint is for aesthetics, ie, it will not carry liquid, be under pressure, or tension. The conditions are that the joint cannot easily separate and it will be outdoors. |
Yes, it’s for railing balusters. Each baluster end needs a slip coupling. The porch and small deck have 145 baluster (= 290 slip couplings). I don’t even want to think about the large deck. I was hoping to use a quick dab of some sort of adhesive rather than take the time to heat and sweat each joint. |
Well, you could line them up and do a bunch at once use Mapp gas, not propane (much hotter) and you don't need a lot, just a wee bit to hold it in place. I saw a really cool railing once, it had wood top and bottom (2x6's redwood) and the rails themselves were pieces of 1/2 copper I'm still trying to find a place to do it. |
That’s exactly what I’m going for, except the rails will be redwood 2x4 instead of 2x6. The top and bottom rails will have a T and I configuration, respectively (T & I cross sectional view). Top rail configuration The balusters will be half inch copper pipe and connected using these: Baluster connector & bottom rail configuration The problem is that the bastards intentionally mfg’d the baluster connectors to not fit three-quarter or half-inch copper pipe (they want you to buy their balusters... go figure). However a half inch copper coupling fits perfectly. I wanted to avoid using any sort of flame to prevent uneven discoloration of the copper. The house is Craftsman style architecture and should look sweet when finished. |
I like. Maybe an outdoor rated adhesive/epoxy, such as landscape block or JB combined with a center punch dimple? A dab of adhesive/epoxy, followed by a twist to spread, and a dimple to retain will prevent moisture intrusion and back-out. I like very much. Many thanks to all for the great ideas! |
|
You could simply use copper pipe caps and drive a screw through them to fasten tothe rail (I would use stainless screws to limit corrosion). The trap the copper pipe between the upper and lower rails and caps and be done with it. I would not try just putting thre pipe in holes borred part way through the lower rail. It will catch water and cause problems even with pressure treated from the wood swelling. Driling a stepped hole (large for the pipe OD, small for drainage) would work better. The upper rail would be fine with holes part way through since they face down. |
|
well so, the thing i saw (and want to do) had 2x6 bottom and top rails but in the middle of each rail was a 2x2 or 2x4 with holes drilled in them and then you fit the copper into each hole. (probably take 10 people to get one rail to line up, but basically pretty simple.) and then each 2x2/2x4 was screwed on top (bottom) of the 2x6 . ______ . __ . | . | . | . __ . ______ Like that (kinda, hard to do with just type) if you were looking down the side like you were a post. but you were using redwood right? no reason to care about the copper and honestly I think you want it to color somewhat with the green patina of copper like the Statue of Liberty. I think it would be a COOL look without all this extra fitting crap from Deckorators. (nice scam they got going there) |
I like the idea of using drilled holes on the top rail. It allows a little wiggle room if the holes are drilled an extra quarter inch deep. It will most certainly save me half the cost of whatever is used to secure the balusters. I will explore the feasibility of caps for the bottom rail. Thanks for the great idea. |
|
www.diamondtour.com/dtgs-30-minute-8oz-epoxy-kit-p-1070.html Shafting epoxy is designed for this purpose, but any good epoxy should work okay. |
|
There is a product out there for copper bonding. It is actually used for COPPER PLUMBING fittings and is water/heat tight. I forget what it is called but it is available. Here it is: another type superglue.supergluecorp.com/copperbond.html |