OK, I think what you're asking is this:
You have a single fixture rated for a maximum 60-watt lamp, currently controlled by one wall switch.
You want the maximum wattage rating upped, and you want it controlled by 2 or more switches, such as in a room with 2 or more entries so you do not have to walk across the room to switch the light on/off.
Is this what you're asking?
If so, it is fairly easily done as long as you can safely run wire and do simple electrical.
The first thing to do--as with any electric service of any nature if you're not a professional--is to find the breaker controlling the circuit the light is on and shut it off. From there, pull the fixture and switch out of the wall,
BUT DO NOT DISCONNECT ANY WIRING! Using a tester (preferrably a "non-contact" type that lights and/or beeps when brought within a few inches of a live electrical circuit), verify that all power is "open" (off).
This next part is critical, so pay attention if you want to avoid a buttload of frustration, posting here two-dozen times asking questions, or spending $65 an hour for a professional to come out, fix your crap, and laugh at you on their lunch breaks (yeah, I've done my share of service calls, LOL).
Don't take any wires apart! Get a piece of paper and draw a sketch of what wires go where, which wires enter which box, what colors they are, and etc. Depending on the age of the home, your wires may be anything from hook and loop to Romex to MC. I need to know this: Which wires are bundled in the back of the box and not attached to any device; how many there are; if they are clad in metal, bare, carboard, or plastic; and all the colors.
Pictures are, of course, the very best way to do this, but we can also do it with a scanned sketch or just with you being very articulate about what you've observed. What I need to determine is the location of the switch-and-feed: Where power comes in, and to which box. It may come in at the fixture and backfeed to the switch, or it may come in at the switch and then feed the fixture. Depending on which of these scenarios is true, I can then walk you through the process.
The rest is cake, and you can do it yourself very easily. You'll need access to your attic or crawlspace, or you'll need very good sheetrock patching skills. I'll tell you which wire to run, how to run it, and how to hook it up.
As far as the fixture itself, you'll just have to buy a fixture rated for whatever wattage you'd like in the style you'd prefer (if married, the style the wife demands, of course
).
Fishing wire from a box through a top plate can be tricky. I'm impatient, and I'm damn good at patching sheetrock, so I just cut a slot under the top plate, drill from the room into the attic, and fish my wire that way. The location of the new switch is easy, as you'll be cutting a hole for the switch box, anyway. Done right, and with overhead/underneath access to run the wire, you'll only have 1 small strip about 2" wide and 4" long to patch. Or I rip the old box out and replace it with a new cut-in box and avoid all patches all-together. The choice is yours.
The switches you'll need to buy are called "3-way" switches if there are 2 switched locations, and "4-way switches" if there are three or more switches controlling the fixture. The switches need to be rated the same size as the breaker, so don't get 15A rated switches for a 20A circuit just to save a buck or two a switch. You'll also need to decide if you want to install dimmers or timers, as those are completely different animals than toggle switches as they are rated for the wattage used, rather than the amps provided. It makes no difference on the fixture end, just the dimmer/timer end.
You need to determine the location of any and all switches you wish to add to the circuit, as well. Not only is this important for the obvious, such as the length of wire you want to run, but if it is excessively long (100' +) we have to account for voltage drop and any control wiring for electronic dimmers/timers.
It is important you carefully examine the desired locations. We have to avoid things that are obstacles or potential obstacles/dangers, such as chimney chases, AC soffits, wire and plumbing chases, and etc. Last thing you want to do is start cutting holes only to find out you can't fish a wire or you hacked into water or vent lines, an HVAC duct, or cut through a bunch of wires. Fail to plan, plan to fail, and all that riggaramoe.
In conclusion, YES, this is definately a fairly easy job: I give it a 3 or a 4 on a 10 scale. Cost-wise, it'll be well under $50, not including the fixture you choose, as those can be $10 - $500. Time-wise, figure a Saturday - maybe as little as 3 hours or as many as 8, depending on all the variables. To have a licensed electrician do this, you'd be looking at about $400 not including any sheetrock patching.
The more pictures and descriptions you can provide me, and the more detailed they are, the easier I can walk you through this and the less hassle for you.
Is it just 1 switch and 1 fixture right now? Are you wanting to add a second switch only, or maybe more than 2 switches total and more fixtures? What do the wires look like, and how are they terminated and landed in the box and on the device(s)? Can you take pictures of the room, and show where you'd like the new switches and fixtures?
God, I LOVE doing this shit! I'm as giddy as a schoolboy with a substitute teacher in a mini-skirt who just dropped her papers off the desk.