[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Comp-tac MTAC (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 6/20/2009 7:54:43 PM EDT
|
Where to buy one? What price should I look at? Does everything come with it? Are they retention of any form?
Thanks |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks are they retention, of any form? I think you're asking whether the holsters offer retention. They do so like most kydex holsters with a swell in the trigger guard. Merely providing proper physical retention of the weapon is not what people generally mean when they refer to a "holster with retention". That generally refers to models that have things like added locks, thumb straps, or mechanisms that require very specific draw strokes. Comp-Tac does not manufacture any such "retention" holsters to my knowledge. BTW, the MTAC is awesome - though I just got a Crossbreed Supertuck and can't decide which I really like better.
|
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks are they retention, of any form? I think you're asking whether the holsters offer retention. They do so like most kydex holsters with a swell in the trigger guard. Yes. I want a holster IWB, with a thumb break at the least, is this logical? |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks are they retention, of any form? I think you're asking whether the holsters offer retention. They do so like most kydex holsters with a swell in the trigger guard. Yes. I want a holster IWB, with a thumb break at the least, is this logical? uhh, why? If its hidden then how is a bad guy gonna grab it? |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks are they retention, of any form? I think you're asking whether the holsters offer retention. They do so like most kydex holsters with a swell in the trigger guard. Yes. I want a holster IWB, with a thumb break at the least, is this logical? uhh, why? If its hidden then how is a bad guy gonna grab it? More importantly, though, IWB means that the holster (and gun) are being held against you, and aren't just hanging off of your belt. Leather and hybrid IWB holsters actuall rely on this added pressure to some degree. It is actually very easy to draw from IWB hybrids when they are just lying around - in fact, you probably could get most to drop the gun by shaking it pretty hard while upside down, if it's just the holster. But strap it on and that piece isn't going anywhere unless you want it to. ETA - Do any of the big leathermakers even offer thumbstraps or other added retention devices for their IWBs? |
|
I was going between an Mtac and a Galco UDC for a Glock 26. I usually have a tucked in shirt, so the concealability/removability of the UDC seems to have the advantage there. Does the quasi retention make up for that? Other advice between the two? Apologies for the semi-hijack. |
|
Quoted:
I was going between an Mtac and a Galco UDC for a Glock 26. I usually have a tucked in shirt, so the concealability/removability of the UDC seems to have the advantage there. Does the quasi retention make up for that? Other advice between the two? Apologies for the semi-hijack. Its ok, helps to flesh out the discord here. |
|
Quoted: Quoted: I was going between an Mtac and a Galco UDC for a Glock 26. I usually have a tucked in shirt, so the concealability/removability of the UDC seems to have the advantage there. Does the quasi retention make up for that? Other advice between the two? Apologies for the semi-hijack. Its ok, helps to flesh out the discord here. Doesn't almost everything help flesh out the discord here? |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I was going between an Mtac and a Galco UDC for a Glock 26. I usually have a tucked in shirt, so the concealability/removability of the UDC seems to have the advantage there. Does the quasi retention make up for that? Other advice between the two? Apologies for the semi-hijack. Its ok, helps to flesh out the discord here. Doesn't almost everything help flesh out the discord here? Yeah, I agree. The slides are around $30 though which sucks. But it certainly would be nice to allow one to have several pistol options with out a major expense each time. I wonder how kydex feels rubbing on the body all day though? |
|
Quoted: what's really better, the c-clips or standard clips? i was going for the c-clips, but undecided for mtac or ctac? Another good question. The c-clips look more concealable to me, but I've heard the standard are easier to maneuver/remove. I've read that the m-tac is more comfortable, including those who own both. However, not owning one myself, hopefully someone else will answer those. |
|
Formal levels of retention on an IWB are unnecessary, and in my opinion, a bad idea. With the MTAC and many other kydex IWB holsters, the kydex is molded in such a way that there is a slight concavity just inside of where the front of the trigger guard sits. This, along with pressure from a quality belt (ala Wilderness Tactical Instructor), allow the pistol to be held pretty firmly in. When the pistol is holsterred, the trigger guard passes under the depression in the kydex. With Comp-Tacs, there is a pretty distinctive (but quiet) "click", allowing you to hear and feel that the pistol is secure. The concavity then acts "lock" the trigger guard into place (not extremely firmly, but enough), so the pistol is less likely to come out of the holster unless purposefully drawn. As mentioned earlier, a (quality gun-)belt puts pressure on the entire kydex body, holding the pistol firmly against your body. A thumb break or other form of retention will act to slow down your draw stroke, and serve only to cause you more of a potential for mistakes while attempting to draw under stress. The entire philosophy behind IWB holsters is to keep the firearm held tightly against your body and out of sight of others. If someone doesn't know you have a pistol, chances are they won't be reaching for one. Since they won't be trying to steal a pistol they don't know you have, a thumb break/rentention system is completely unnecessary. The MTAC is an excellent IWB holster that does a fantastic job of concealing a weapon while still providing a really unbelievably amount of comfort. Chances are, you will nearly forget that you're wearing a pistol. Hope this helps ETA: Stick with the standard clips. Unless you're always carrying with a shirt tucked, use the standards. They do an excellent job, and still remain very unobtrusive. They do not stick out, and definitely do not scream "gun!" to those unfamiliar with CCW. I can't imagine too many criminals familiar with Comp-tac or tuckable IWB holsters that would recognize what it is. Further, it's difficult to notice the clips unless they're really looking. And, if they do see the clips, they most likely aren't going to correlate the clips with an IWB holster. If you really want, order a set of C-clips along with the standards for use with deep concealment. They are very easy to swap out, and since there are pre-made holes in the clips, putting the old clips back in at the same cant adjustment is very simple. |
|
Quoted:
Yeah, I agree. The slides are around $30 though which sucks. But it certainly would be nice to allow one to have several pistol options with out a major expense each time. I wonder how kydex feels rubbing on the body all day though? Uh, that's the point of the MTAC and other hybrids (like those from Crossbreed). There is no kydex rubbing against you.
(ETA - On a completely unrelated note, I find that all-kydex IWB can become uncomfortable after a while. They need to be positioned _just right_ to be at their peak. The Supertuck I just received was ordered to allow me to retire my CTAC.) |
|
While I'm at it, here's a thread I did on two of my carry rigs––a Sig P226 9mm in a Comp-Tac CTAC and a CZ-75 SP-01 Phantom in a CrossBreed SuperDeluxe. Please note that these are both FULL-FRAMED pistols, and I can wear them for extended periods of time with no pain or fatigue, and astounding concealability. With a quality belt, weight isn't even an issue to me. |
|
Quoted: Really great posts, Kap! Thanks for all of the info. I think I'm definitely sold. Thanks. Sometimes it seems like I'm a Rep for these companies (I should get paid for this shit They just make fantastic products that allow me to keep myself safe and carry possibly more-than-adequate hardware for anything I may encounter without causing me any grief. I highly recommend you start out by buying a Wilderness Tactical Instructor belt (5-stitch). If you do not, you will quickly learn that a good quality belt makes ALL the difference in the world. This particular belt is fairly cheap (40 dollars and will last you years upon years. You will probably replace it due to waist-size changes before any signs of serious wear), and does a fantastic job. It has a tensile strength of something like 8,000 lbs. If you're ever in a pinch, just snap a carabiner to the D-ring and repel out of harms way. ![]() Normal belts will flex, fold, sag, and deform when you add as much weight as a loaded pistol, flashlight, spare mag(s), and/or whatever else you may slap on there. Good quality gunbelts will not, and will last you a lifetime. Trust me, this is a worthwhile investment. Then buy an MTAC for your pistol. Buy right the first time. You will not regret it. Then, of course, stand in front of a mirror and practice, practice, practice your draw stroke until you have it perfect. In effect, you're buying a life-insurance policy. Best not to skimp out, right? |
|
I forgot to mention, an added benefit to the MTAC, Supertuck Deluxe, etc. over smaller and non-leather backed holsters is sweating. These have a tendency to protect your body from the pistol, and also the pistol from your body. While this may not be as big of a concern to the OP, living in Oregon, it is certainly a concern of mine living in the center of Satan's asshole. Smaller-bodied holsters simply don't block the gun from your sweat as well as leather-backed holsters. Furthermore, since Kydex isn't exactly porous, the sweat may run down inside of the holster and contact the pistol. I have in the past noticed a little bit of rust on the grip-screws of my P226. While I can't single out the CTAC as the cause, it probably didn't help in that regard. My SuperDeluxe is made from horse-hide, which is a finer grained leather (more water-resistant) than cow-hide. I chose this specifically because it's humid as balls here and I sweat a lot. Modern and good quality cow-hide does very well, if not just as good as horse-hide, but I decided to go with horse anyway. Plus my holster is made from horse, which I find to be quite frankly, fucking awesome. The downfall of horse-hide is that it will take a bit longer to "break in" than cow-hide, and since it is more water-resistant is much more difficult to stain (a non-issue to me). Once any holster is broken in, it will be noticeably more comfortable than a fresh-off-the-shelf holster. Furthermore, I find that holsters with two (!!) clips that are spaced apart, whether they're kydex (CTAC), leather (Milt Sparks VersaMax II), or Hybrid (MTAC, Supertuck) are MUCH more supportive and comfortable. I also find they better conform to the contour of your belt and body and hold your sidearm much tighter against your body. IMHO, of course And finally, to address some of the OP's original questions, I agree with the above poster that recommended buying from the manufacturer (here). The MTAC is the same price as the CTAC (!!), coming in at $80.00 before shipping. They are, as mentioned previously, made to order, and Comp-Tac is good people. I'm winded |
|
Quoted: I forgot to mention, an added benefit to the MTAC, Supertuck Deluxe, etc. over smaller and non-leather backed holsters is sweating. These have a tendency to protect your body from the pistol, and also the pistol from your body. While this may not be as big of a concern to the OP, living in Oregon, it is certainly a concern of mine living in the center of Satan's asshole. Smaller-bodied holsters simply don't block the gun from your sweat as well as leather-backed holsters. Furthermore, since Kydex isn't exactly porous, the sweat may run down inside of the holster and contact the pistol. I have in the past noticed a little bit of rust on the grip-screws of my P226. While I can't single out the CTAC as the cause, it probably didn't help in that regard. My SuperDeluxe is made from horse-hide, which is a finer grained leather (more water-resistant) than cow-hide. I chose this specifically because it's humid as balls here and I sweat a lot. Modern and good quality cow-hide does very well, if not just as good as horse-hide, but I decided to go with horse anyway. Plus my holster is made from horse, which I find to be quite frankly, fucking awesome. The downfall of horse-hide is that it will take a bit longer to "break in" than cow-hide, and since it is more water-resistant is much more difficult to stain (a non-issue to me). Once any holster is broken in, it will be noticeably more comfortable than a fresh-off-the-shelf holster. Furthermore, I find that holsters with two (!!) clips that are spaced apart, whether they're kydex (CTAC), leather (Milt Sparks VersaMax II), or Hybrid (MTAC, Supertuck) are MUCH more supportive and comfortable. I also find they better conform to the contour of your belt and body and hold your sidearm much tighter against your body. IMHO, of course And finally, to address some of the OP's original questions, I agree with the above poster that recommended buying from the manufacturer (here). The MTAC is the same price as the CTAC (!!), coming in at $80.00 before shipping. They are, as mentioned previously, made to order, and Comp-Tac is good people. I'm winded Got my order in with them! Once again, thanks for all of the info. Take a breather now, and contact C-Tac about getting your commission checks. Edit: had to make it plural, as it seems you convinced two of us. |
|
Quoted:
I have in the past noticed a little bit of rust on the grip-screws of my P226. While I can't single out the CTAC as the cause, it probably didn't help in that regard. SIG factory grip screws have a reputation for rusting like crazy. But as you said, the CTAC wouldn't be a big help. I sweat very little naturally, so I just went with cowhide on my Supertuck. And before anyone says "oh, it must be nice to not sweat much" - no, it really fucking sucks. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
Really great posts, Kap! Thanks for all of the info. I think I'm definitely sold. Thanks. Sometimes it seems like I'm a Rep for these companies (I should get paid for this shit They just make fantastic products that allow me to keep myself safe and carry possibly more-than-adequate hardware for anything I may encounter without causing me any grief. I highly recommend you start out by buying a Wilderness Tactical Instructor belt (5-stitch). If you do not, you will quickly learn that a good quality belt makes ALL the difference in the world. This particular belt is fairly cheap (40 dollars and will last you years upon years. You will probably replace it due to waist-size changes before any signs of serious wear), and does a fantastic job. It has a tensile strength of something like 8,000 lbs. If you're ever in a pinch, just snap a carabiner to the D-ring and repel out of harms way.
Normal belts will flex, fold, sag, and deform when you add as much weight as a loaded pistol, flashlight, spare mag(s), and/or whatever else you may slap on there. Good quality gunbelts will not, and will last you a lifetime. Trust me, this is a worthwhile investment. Then buy an MTAC for your pistol. Buy right the first time. You will not regret it. Then, of course, stand in front of a mirror and practice, practice, practice your draw stroke until you have it perfect. In effect, you're buying a life-insurance policy. Best not to skimp out, right? Do you know of any leather type belts that do the same thing? If anyone happens to have a good retention holster for OC, let me know. I could buy a used one. |
|
Even for someone who sweats a lot, I wouldn't hesitate on recommending a good quality cow-hide holster. ESPECIALLY to those who start off carrying with those open-cell foam holsters We still used a lot of wool uniforms in WWII, didn't we? I imagine that would be miserable in the summertime |
|
Quoted: Do you know of any leather type belts that do the same thing? If anyone happens to have a good retention holster for OC, let me know. I could buy a used one. I have no personal experience with the product, but I have read a TON of praise on the board for The Belt Man. As I understand it, there is usually some wait time, but the wait is very much worth it. My OC rig (which goes pretty much unused) for my P226 is a Don Hume Agent711 leather OWB holster with thumb break. It is a great holster. Very comfortable, and actually still pretty concealable with an untucked shirt. I got mine from GunnersAlley. I would call them and see if they are in stock first, as there is no on-site notification. Many people here LOVE the Blackhawk SERPA. It's a great, and very affordable holster. I have personally been eying the Blade-Tech SWR belt holster, but have no personal experience with one. |
|
Quoted:
We still used a lot of wool uniforms in WWII, didn't we? I imagine that would be miserable in the summertime Since this thread has served its purpose, I suppose a sidetrack isn't that bad... Lots of US stuff is cotton HBT. However, I don't reenact the Allies.
And while the Germans did have cotton HBT unforms for summer field and drill use, they are *not* acceptable attire for formation. That always required full wools. Which already suck a ton by April in the midwest humidity (the April event I attend is in STL). But they look damn nice. |
|
Quoted: Quoted: We still used a lot of wool uniforms in WWII, didn't we? I imagine that would be miserable in the summertime Since this thread has served its purpose, I suppose a sidetrack isn't that bad... Lots of US stuff is cotton HBT. However, I don't reenact the Allies. ![]() And while the Germans did have cotton HBT unforms for summer field and drill use, they are *not* acceptable attire for formation. That always required full wools. Which already suck a ton by April in the midwest humidity (the April event I attend is in STL). But they look damn nice. I used to live in Cinci, so I know what you're talking about. If anyone ever tries to tell you that the south-east is hot but "it's a dry heat", don't fucking believe them ![]() |
|
OP, here's some more info on belts: The Belt Man praise More Belt Man praise A little info on Comp-Tac belt Little more |
|
I love my MTAC. With that said.. in regards to sweat... the leather does very little to protect your gun. Leather absorbs sweat.. if you sweat enough, it will make it to the other side to your gun. I know this from experience, I think MOST guns won't have a problem, but my Sig P228 will rust if I sweat too much and don't wipe the moisture off. I once went hiking with it and the gun was actually wet with sweat (like it looked like it had been sprayed with water). We stopped at a pizza hut for lunch after and I went to the bathroom and wiped it off.. it left a wet and slightly orange/ brown streak on the paper towel. |
| I'm 5'11, 175 lbs, 35" waist and carry a Glock 19 in a C-Tac. I usually wear an undershirt, but the Kydex isn't uncomfortable against the skin when I don't. It's a slightly textured surface, but not so that it would be uncomfortable, and there's nothing on the back of the holster to poke you. The sweat guard on the holster is a great aid to reholstering as it keeps your shirt from getting in the way of your holster's mouth and possibly, inside your trigger guard. One must still be careful with a Glock, but it's a nice added layer of security when you're constantly reholstering during a class. I still get sweat on the gun when working outside on a Virginia summer's day. The two offset belt clips mean that the only added thickness to the width of your gun is two layers of Kydex, so it's much better in that respect than most leather holsters. It's also comfortable, even while sitting. I've worn it for hours while driving. I can not say the same for their magazine pouches, which I find bulky and uncomfortable. I can't recommend the holster highly enough, however. |
