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Posted: 7/21/2013 2:54:31 PM EST
Do cheap safes provide enough protection? For example the big 64 gun cannon or stack-on safes? They weigh about 800-1000 lbs. is the steel shit? Anyone have any experience?
Link Posted: 7/21/2013 3:01:41 PM EST
Here's what acouple of meth heads didi to ours with a pry bar, they DIDN'T get in
Liberty safe's


Link Posted: 7/21/2013 3:06:00 PM EST
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Originally Posted By toothandnail:
Here's what acouple of meth heads didi to ours with a pry bar, they DIDN'T get in
Liberty safe's
http://imageshack.us/a/img703/4845/w2bl.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img526/4197/ijbn.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img844/2052/yh0g.jpg
View Quote


Liberty safes are a lot better then the ones I asked about? Am I correct?
Link Posted: 7/21/2013 3:16:43 PM EST
Depends on what other security measures you have in place. My safe is a $500 sentry. Cheap and no where near the level of security that a Sturdy would provide. But, it is tucked away in a closet and covered by security cams and an alarm. No one can get into the closet it is in without tripping a motion sensor or two window sensors. If they knew where it was they could cut through an exterior wall I guess but they would be recorded..... Reminds me, I need to pick up another notion sensor.
Link Posted: 7/21/2013 3:20:53 PM EST
fire safe bolted to the floor/wall beats the hell out of a glass display case.
Link Posted: 7/21/2013 4:38:05 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/21/2013 4:39:36 PM EST by M4tty]
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Originally Posted By 1911xdm:


Liberty safes are a lot better then the ones I asked about? Am I correct?
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Originally Posted By 1911xdm:
Originally Posted By toothandnail:
Here's what acouple of meth heads didi to ours with a pry bar, they DIDN'T get in
Liberty safe's
http://imageshack.us/a/img703/4845/w2bl.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img526/4197/ijbn.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img844/2052/yh0g.jpg


Liberty safes are a lot better then the ones I asked about? Am I correct?

It isn't that cut and dry, there is so much more to a good safe than most people understand. I didn't even know what a pit of intricacies, bullshit and personal opinions it is until I began researching for my purchase. Go to the safe forum and research, pay particular attention to the 'Questions for AMSEC TheSafeGuy" thread. Read the whole thing, that thread is chock full of good info.

Just because one safe is better than another on paper does not mean that it's better for YOU. Also, stay away from Stack On as a general rule.
Link Posted: 7/22/2013 9:59:15 PM EST
A cheap safe is better than no safe.

Buy the biggest and best safe that you can, then be sure to bolt it down.
Link Posted: 7/22/2013 10:04:58 PM EST
you may want to change the title, i thought this thread was about bulk rubbers
Link Posted: 7/23/2013 1:48:08 AM EST
Just remember that you get what you pay for. My safe was about $2k and it was a good deal. I did a shit ton of research on it. All I can say is I sure as hell hope that I don't forget the combo.... OP, check the safe section here in the forums. You find some great info there.
Link Posted: 7/23/2013 1:54:02 AM EST
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Originally Posted By flint_knapper:
fire safe bolted to the floor/wall beats the hell out of a glass display case.
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+1

Bolt it to the wall studs or floor makes it much tougher to get into. Much easier to get into when you can tip it over on its side. With it on the floor you can then hang your body weight off the prybar.
Link Posted: 7/23/2013 2:00:27 AM EST
Link Posted: 7/23/2013 2:45:17 AM EST
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Originally Posted By Kubota3430:
A cheap safe is better than no safe.

Buy the biggest and best safe that you can, then be sure to bolt it down.
View Quote



rule number 1 .....start here
Link Posted: 7/23/2013 3:13:07 AM EST
Just my .02, but I think there is a minimum level of safe that when properly located and bolted down, will resist pry bar attempts of casual thieves. So if you can install the safe in a corner, and bolt it down properly, that right there is going to get you to a certain level of minimum protection. Good enough for smash and grab type guys that break into your house looking for simple stuff to steal. Good enough for the big guy with a crowbar or even a sledge.

In my own little world, I think this is sufficient when you have enough insurance coverage and the contents of the safe can be replaced with just money... meaning you have no irreplaceable family hand me downs or whatever. This gets you past casual thieves, and has a good chance of protecting the contents from a non-total loss type of fire that would be typical in a city or relatively near a fire department one way or another. Sort of goes without saying but this also assumes you don't put the safe somewhere (like a garage) where a vehicle and a tow strap can be used to dislodge the whole thing and pack it up as a go box. Takes your odds of losing the contents down to a very low level, and lets insurance worry about it if you are the very rare exception.

I think this level of practical protection covers 99% of what is necessary for an average guy.
Link Posted: 7/23/2013 3:20:12 AM EST
Depends on where you put it.

Mine is bolted to the floor in the back of my closet, it just barely fit in there after I removed the drywall from one side.

There is zero leverage points and pretty damn hard to pull straight out with all the shit I have in there plus the bolts into the floor. It would take a ton of effort, like a few hours worth just to get into it I think.

If the same safe was out in the open I bet within 15 minutes a couple of guys with pry bars could tip it over and breach the door.
Link Posted: 7/23/2013 3:39:02 AM EST
[Last Edit: 7/23/2013 3:39:50 AM EST by Mach]
With the right tools and time any safe can be broken open.

Any safe, not locker, will work against a smash and grab crime.

Somebody that brings the right tools, not so much.


ETA. The best way into a safe is to cut into the side.
Link Posted: 7/23/2013 4:31:49 AM EST
what is a casual thief, do they shop @ 7/11

Hey..

I remember a guy with a big mouth (look wat I got) then one day some guys broke into the house, backed a wrecker up to the outside wall cut some holes, sent the cables in, tightened it down & drove off pulling the safe through the wall
so much for show & tell
Link Posted: 7/24/2013 7:21:15 AM EST
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Originally Posted By Kubota3430:
A cheap safe is better than no safe.

Buy the biggest and best safe that you can, then be sure to bolt it down.
View Quote


And what if you can bolt it down?
Link Posted: 7/24/2013 7:28:12 AM EST
We have a safe forum under the Armory button...
Link Posted: 7/24/2013 8:10:13 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By toothandnail:
Here's what acouple of meth heads didi to ours with a pry bar, they DIDN'T get in
Liberty safe's
http://imageshack.us/a/img703/4845/w2bl.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img526/4197/ijbn.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img844/2052/yh0g.jpg
View Quote



Thats not impressive at all. So meth heads with a prybar caused the bolts to be that fucked up?

Thats what happens when you use sheetmetal to support one side of the bolts.......


Cocked bolts act as a ramp and force the frame open. Straight bolts stay in shear loading and are almost impossible to pull.
Link Posted: 7/24/2013 9:30:31 AM EST
OP

-Buy a cheep safe and load it with bricks or put your ammo in it.

-Hide all firearms in boxes in the attic labeled Xmas decorations.

-Thieves will spend all their time on the safe.

-??????

-profit
Link Posted: 7/24/2013 9:40:19 AM EST
Sturdy, amsec, liberty, fort knox, or above.

They can still all be cut or torched.

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