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Posted: 2/28/2002 10:50:01 PM EDT
[#1]
Distributor cap maybe? Does the car seem to be getting any spark?
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Posted: 2/28/2002 10:59:27 PM EDT
[#2]
you think it might be the starter, because i was able to jump it yesterday, but it's not the battery because i got a new one, another possibility could be that the battery i got isn't charged. what ya think ?
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Posted: 2/28/2002 11:59:44 PM EDT
[#3]
What makes you think it's the starter? Is it turning over? The fuel pump, air filter and spark plugs aren't going to affect whether the starter cranks the engine.
Describe in detail what happens when you turn the key. The more specific you are, the better chance someone can help you. I don't know a thing about Hondas, but I'm assuming it's fuel injected. Any info on the car and engine would be helpful. Auto or stick? |
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Posted: 3/1/2002 12:18:05 AM EDT
[#4]
i don't know much about cars, but i DO NOT hear a click, if i hear a click then i guess that's a dead battery. it sounds like the engine is about to turn over but never does.
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Posted: 3/1/2002 12:21:24 AM EDT
[#5]
Man I'm gonna piss someone off here but what the hell here goes nothing!! Buy another ""JAP""car and then you can say man I wish I had kept the $$$$ in the good Ol USA!!![marines]
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Posted: 3/1/2002 12:22:18 AM EDT
[#6]
Does Honda use individual coils, Did they?? If not cap and or rotor seems most likely. tough to diagnose with limited info, but thats my guess. Fuel delivery is another option, start with the filter if you go that route, cheapest forst.
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Posted: 3/1/2002 2:44:20 AM EDT
[#7]
I'm going to venture a guess, on the limited information provided, and say that your engine is not grounded, probably due to a broken or unattached ground strap. To test this theory, get your jumper cables attach one lead to the engine and another to the frame and try to start it. If it starts then that is your problem.
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Posted: 3/1/2002 2:52:35 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted: i don't know much about cars, but i DO NOT hear a click, if i hear a click then i guess that's a dead battery. it sounds like the engine is about to turn over but never does. Stop thinking about fuel pumps, coils and spark plugs. You've got to get the motor cranking before it can start. You replaced the battery with a new one? Take it back where you got it & have the verify that it's good. It's called a "load test", and only takes about 30 seconds to perform on the battery. After that, reinstall it in the vehicle [b]but[/b] make sure the terminals & posts on the battery are clean first. Try to start the car. If the response is still "nothing", disconnect the positive lead to the starter (the big wire.) Hook one end of a test light to the starter wire, touch the probe to the engine block (ground it.) Have a friend hit the key. If the test light lights up, you've got a bad starter. If it doesn't, you've got a problem either with the ignition switch, ignition fuse (in the fuse block), the neutral/park safety switch or the starter solenoid (if it's seperate from the starter.) My bets are on either loose connections or a bad starter. Good luck. -kid |
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Posted: 3/1/2002 3:10:56 AM EDT
[#9]
I misread, thought you said the engine was not catching, but assumed it was turning. Good call a3. The neutral/park safety switch should give absolutely nothing. I had one go out a while back, and everything(accessories) worked fine with the ignition "on" but when I turned to "start" everything died, and I got nothing at all.
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Posted: 3/1/2002 10:46:03 AM EDT
[#10]
Dude you need to learn the basics of what makes a car run.
when it breaks, you need to determine if the problem is lack of fuel, spark or air. If you engine wont turn over, you lack all three. Turn on the Headlights, and turn the key. If they don't dim, the problem is the Starter cables, or most likely the starter solonoid. you may need a new starter, but check the easy cheap stuff first. good luck |
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Posted: 3/1/2002 11:01:25 AM EDT
[#11]
Quoted: ... Stop thinking about fuel pumps, coils and spark plugs. You've got to get the motor cranking before it can start. You replaced the battery with a new one? Take it back where you got it & have the verify that it's good. It's called a "load test", and only takes about 30 seconds to perform on the battery. After that, reinstall it in the vehicle [b]but[/b] make sure the terminals & posts on the battery are clean first. Try to start the car. If the response is still "nothing", disconnect the positive lead to the starter (the big wire.) Hook one end of a test light to the starter wire, touch the probe to the engine block (ground it.) Have a friend hit the key. If the test light lights up, you've got a bad starter. If it doesn't, you've got a problem either with the ignition switch, ignition fuse (in the fuse block), the neutral/park safety switch or the starter solenoid (if it's seperate from the starter.) My bets are on either loose connections or a bad starter. Good luck. -kid And if all of the above are good and the engine still won't spin, the most likely explanation is hydrostatic lock caused by a head gasket leak. In that sad scenario there is usually a clear indication of oil in the coolant and/or coolant in the oil. Brown pasty stuff or drops of liquid on the dipstick and oil filler cap are bad news. |
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Posted: 3/1/2002 11:05:17 AM EDT
[#12]
BillofRights makes a good point as does a3kid. If you jave a known good battery, next make sure your battery terminals are tight and not corroded. If your dashboard warning lights come on when you turn the key on all the way, then you should be OK with your terminal connectoins on the battery. Jumpstart the car and use a regular voltmeter on the battery and set it to 20-volts DC(VDC) When running, the alternator will be charging the battery at 14.0-14.6 volts. If it is below that your alternator is bad. If you try to start thr car after verifying the above, then chances are that your starter is bad. One thing you can try is to get a small hammer and maybee a long screwdriver and bang the starter a few times with it while someone else turns the key. Make sure it is not in gear and the handbrake is on tight if you have a manual tranny. Some honda 5-speeds have a safety switch on the clutch pedal that can cause the starter not to engage. they usually have two wires. If you arestuck you can always disconnect the electrical connector and jump the two terminals with a small wire or paper clip. Then you will complete the circuit and the starter will crank the motor, however you lose the safety of not being able to start it in gear. As you can see a little more info would help us identify the most likely problem, but unless you are handy with cars and hand tools it is best to get a mechanic to do the diagnosis and repair. Unfortunately I don't know any shops in your area. Good luck and let us know what it was.
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Posted: 3/1/2002 1:55:54 PM EDT
[#13]
I took it to a mechanic, he told me it was the electrical ignition. How much do they cost. ?
Thanks |
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Posted: 3/1/2002 2:18:43 PM EDT
[#14]
guess what i am also a honda mechanic, lucky day for you, you need to ask what part of the ignition is bad, but from my many years of experience i would guess that he is talking about an igniter, or more commonly known in the ole us of a, an ignition module, there are two kinds of them one will be brown in color, and the other is black, the brown ones are known for going kaput when it is not convienient, the first thing you need to do is check for spark, you crank while someone else looks for spark coming from one of the unplugged plug wires, if no spark, go to the distributor cap, you will need an 8mm nut driver, remove the cap, look for burn marks on the rotot, and look for burn marks where the coil meets the cap, it is very common for the coil to go bad, and fry the cap and coil, if the rotor, cap and coil look good, look under the rotor, you may have to remove the little plastic cover from under the rotor, look for the module, it is 1.5 in, by 1.5 inches, square, and has four wires, if it is brown, replace it, get it from the dealership, it is cheaper there, and the ones from autobone are made by wells, crap, let me know what you see, also wiggle the rotor button side to side, you are looking to see if the shaft inside of the distributor is loose, the bearings go bad inside of them and burn the whole unit out, and that is another of the common problems for the little honders
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Posted: 3/1/2002 2:53:10 PM EDT
[#15]
he's charging me $150 total, I don't know if that good or not.
Thanks |
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Posted: 3/1/2002 3:39:59 PM EDT
[#16]
Hope he didn't try to tell you it's the distriberator...
FITTER out [BD] |
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Posted: 3/1/2002 4:47:50 PM EDT
[#17]
Working on cars is the same as working on anything with distinct systems. It's like the human body... fuel, electrical, etc. You have to put on your troubleshooter hat and start with the basics. If it turns over at the right speed, the starter and battery are probably OK. Then pull a spark plug and see if it's wet with fuel which could indicate no spark. My point is that it could be a myriad of things from fuel pump to electronic ignition. If you don't have the tools or knowledge to correct the problem, about the only choice you have is to take it to a mechanic that you can trust to fix the problem. Word of mouth is usually the best way to find a reliable mechanic rather than picking at random from the phonebook.
Hope this helps and good luck. |
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Posted: 3/1/2002 5:13:17 PM EDT
[#18]
I just picked him out of the phone book, I don't know if he's charging me too much or not.
how much does the electric ignition cost .? Thanks |
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